My neighbor has a 2008 Grand prix V8 that won't turn over. When the ignition is turn on the starter does not turn and then the horn honks once, you hear clicking sounds in the engine compartment and inside the car and the service display goes through each system indicating that it needs service. We unsuccessfully tried jumping the battery.
View 1 RepliesSo I have an 04 grand prix. Every morning I get to my car and it won't start. The lights work. Locks. Etc. I have to put it on the charger for awhile to get it to start. Sooo could it possibly be a bad connection to the starter or is something just draining my battery enough to make it not start? I just had a lot of after market wiring removed and it didn't do this until it got cold out.
View 5 RepliesTurning on headlights cuts engine. Sometimes won't start at all even with lights off. All dash lights go out as well. I.e. when auxiliary is on only radio works, turning on headlights shuts off radio. Recently got a used alternator. Could not find any issues pertaining to the alternator. New battery as well.
View 3 RepliesMy 2008 Grand Prix has developed an intermittent starting issue. The car always starts in the morning. On some days after I have driven to work, grocery etc it refuses to start. Dead. No sound, no "click click". If the car sits for 15 minutes it will then start. The dealership has replaced the relay in the transmission that tells the car what gear it is in, replaced the battery and cables, suggested I try using my husband's key instead of mine. It still happens. It has done this about 7 times since October.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Accord EX 4-cylinder that will not start. When I turn the key the starter does not engage. The green key indicator on the instrument panel looks like it recognizes the key security chip.
When I checked for voltage at the starter solenoid coil wire I found about 9.0 volts without turning the key. When I turned the key I got a little over 11 volts. I disconnected the wire to the solenoid coil and measured 0 volts from the coil wire to the battery BUT 9.0 volts from the tab on the solenoid valve to the battery. It makes me think something is shorted to the frame of the starter.
Replaced starter after which when i turn key to on position starter will engage and actually start engine; turn to accessory and starter will engage but wont start engine. Checked double checked and so on installation. And then exchanged for another rebuilt starter with same results. the reason for replacing the starter in the first place was during the winter went out to start to let motor run fur a while which it did. Went to move before completely warmed up and killed engine starter never made another sound. 1978 gmc 6000....
View 9 RepliesDeveloped a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
My Nissan sentra will start on the coldest day, but now that it's getting warmer it sometimes won't start! Turn the key and I have power to everything, but engage the starter and nothing! Not even a click! Try and try and eventually it starts. What could cause this??
View 7 RepliesI have 2007 Santa Fe LTD which will intermittently not start. All electrical devices work fine but when you turn the key the starter will not engage. Keep trying the key and after 5-10-100 try's the car will start. The next time it may start on the first attempt or it might not. Sometimes it will go weeks without a problem then it will not start again. I have checked the starter relay, battery, and cables. It seems like the alarm is faulty and not letting the power get to the starter.
View 16 RepliesNeighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
View 7 RepliesWhen I insert the key, there is current to the dashboard and the steering wheel moves into position. When I try to start the car, the dashboard is illuminated- the radio comes on etc- but the starter does not engage all. It's totally quiet. I remove the key, insert the key and try again. Sometimes the starter engages, sometimes not. When it cranks, it starts right up. The battery is good. We had the ignition switch changed out a while back, but it didn't really improve the situation.
View 2 RepliesAfter getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
View 14 Replies2008 Ford F-250 with a 5.4 Liter V-8 3-valve engine and automatic transmission.
Running down the road at 44-MPH. Pulling 5,000lbs. Engine died just after turning on the air conditioner. (Not sure this is relevant.)
Would not start. Turned the key - the starter would engage, but the engine would only turn maybe a quarter turn. Try it again engine turns. Try it again and now it only clicks. So, I
-Replaced the battery. Same symptom. Will only turn the engine 1/4 turn.
-Replaced the starter. Same symptom.
-Checked oil. Clean. No Water. No gas smell. (200 miles since last oil change)
-Checked coolant. Clean. No Oil.
-Charged the new battery and tried again. Same symptom.
-Checked and cleaned all grounds and battery cables. Same symptom.
-Checked that the transmission is shifting though the gears. Seems fine.
-Removed serpentine belt. Check all pulleys, and accessories that are driven by the belt. Everything spins quietly and freely.
-I put the truck in neutral and tried to spin the crank pulley with a 2 breaker bar. It wouldn't budge.
Am I missing something? I fear the engine is seized or hydro-locked. If hydro-locked, wouldn't I see signs in the fluids? Can the pistons be hydrolocked with fuel? Not sure what to try next.
Engine starts then runs for a period of time until it warms up, then fans come on and then EGR clicks on and off every other second , then it eventually quits. Replaced the coolant temp sensor. And it never sets a code. Have checked wiring for shorts and nothing. Is it a ECM going bad?? When trying to drive it , it will only go about a half a block , then quits , Then will start up again.???
1990 Pontiac Grand Prix with 121000 miles. Scan shows all items within limits or normal.
I just got new struts, brakes, rotors etc on my 95 grand prix. A few weeks later my ABS light went on.... Do I have to get it fixed right away?
View 11 RepliesI got my car from an auction and I apparently had to do work to it and we got most problems fixed but now when i saw my fuse box i saw their wasn't a fuse in the radio so i put on in there and it can on so I thought cool it works so i turned my car off and the radio stayed on and i thought, bad fuse so i got a new fuse put it in and my car was still off and the radio stayed on. So i can't have a radio because my battery will drain. The ignition works i got a new one installed it perfectly my car is a 2000 Pontiac grandprix gtp supercharged. I've only had it for about 3 weeks ...
View 5 RepliesWhy are my ABS and Trac lights going on and off periodically?
View 2 RepliesHottest day ever on Planet Earth and my air conditioner in my Pontiac decides to throw hot air in my face! Luckily, for my female companion, she gets ice cold air. This 2002 Grand Prix 40th Anniversary edition has 236,000 miles, I never once had a problem with the air conditioner in the past (have thought about contacting GM asking what they did right in this car)This model has dual climate control. I noticed that in turning the selector knob on the dash climate control panel, there is hot air in the vent, bi-level, heater and defrost, but cold air comes out on the passenger side. The interior temperature functions are all similar on the '97 through '03 models of Grand Prix, just wondered if this is something I can fix, or do I need to visit a Pontiac dealer to have it diagnosed (and spend a lot of money)
View 3 RepliesCode is for tcc stuck on. Code p0741 is tcc stuck off. So, it's a sticky solenoid. Which means it may start out sticking occasionally and progress to sticking more often and finally staying on/off permanently? If u get the code/symptoms 1 time, does it usually mean it will happen again, soon?
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8 L V6 with120,000 miles shakes/vibrates when I accelerate while turning/veering right (as when coming out of an exit to merge into oncoming traffic). It does not vibrate when I turn left. I have new balanced tires, replaced both front tie-rod ends, and the rack and pinion by a certified GMC mechanic. What could be the problem?
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