With the cold weather arriving I've recently noticed that when I have the heater on it does fine while I'm going down the road. However when I idle at an intersection the blower still works but the heat drops off.
View 5 RepliesI recently had $1600+ of work done on my 2005 Mazda 3 (L4 2.0L). R&R Head Gasket and Thermostat and Coolant Temperature sensor replaced. Since then it's been idling roughly. This was NOT occurring prior to the work. Mechanic says it needs a couple of weeks to "sync"? Does this makes sense? I'm wondering if they did something wrong to cause the problem.
View 9 RepliesI have an old (fourth generation before 2005) and low performance bmw 316 at its 40 000 km (its been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000, then i bought it, so everything rubbery is problematic), i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from .naught to 60 , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on.
View 1 RepliesCar started idling weird last night. Drops to about 500 then up to 1000, thrn down again. CEL has been on for over a month but has not affected driving. Engine shakes and doesn't sound normal. I was told by mechanic CEL was caused by a vacuum leak, but he didn't have the smoke machine to pinpoint the leak. That was over a month ago and I haven't had the chance to go back. What are the first things I could check for besides the vacuum leak?
View 3 RepliesWe have a sled dog team and purchased a 2012 GMC Savana, pulled out the seats then added wire dog kennels to transport them. This question involves air-conditioning since we don’t want hotdogs. Traveling on the highway during the summer in 90 degree plus weather the air conditioning works fine and cools to 35 degrees plus or minus out the vents (We have a thermometer on a vent). When we stop at a rest stop to potty the dogs we leave the engine running and the air conditioning on to keep them cool.
Almost immediately the air blowing from the vents starts rising to 70 degrees. My 2012 Ford Explorer does not have this issue and holds a steady cool temperature while at idle. Our dealer added dye found a leak and it was repaired so the system is topped off and the problem has persisted. Where to look next such as failed switches or compressor problems and what a dealer needs to do to make a repair. They feel the air conditioning is preforming well.
I have a 2009 Santa fe 3.3L V6 (live Montreal, Canada), since the past week when I start it up, I've noticed that after 1 minute or so while the it is idling my rpm's drop from 1000 to about 650 for split second and it seems to want to stall. The same thing happens when driving for a a small distance when ever I have to make a stop my Santa fe rpm's drop (split second) so low it seems to want to stall. Could it be related to Throttle Sensor Position?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 Corolla S. I notice when I let the car idle for like 5-10 minutes the Average mpg readout drops to around 22 mpg(in city while driving it is usually at 25). Why is this?
View 5 RepliesMy tachometer hangs out around the 600 RPM spot when I first start my truck, but lately it will end up dropping to zero when idling, and then bounce up to about the 200 RPM point when accelerating. Its not the Cam Positioning Sensor (I had that happen with my 99 7.3) and this truck runs great. I am thinking it could be at the tach.
Question is: Where does the Tachometer signal generate and does the PCM do anything with it before it sends the signal to the Tachometer? The reason for focusing on the Tach is since the engine runs and idles fine, then that tells me the PCM is receiving the correct signal from the engine and making changes accordingly. I read about a 5.4 gas engine with rain issues, but the only issues going on here is extreme cold (tonight, -15). I keep the truck garaged and when I go out, it is for purpose and then return home to a heated garage.
2007 Montana SV6 3.9. I have lots of heat when vehicle is reving 1500 -2000rpm. when idling at 700 little or no heat. recent flush, thermostat, and serpentine belt. I'm thinking, if it was the water pump not circulating enough water the car should be over heating. heat guage remains on the half mark.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 chevy venture with 100,000 miles on it and I just had the thermostat replaced a month ago. Now that the weather is getting warmer I have noticed the gauge going up when idling for a few minutes, drive through, etc. Is there a sensor that could have went bad when the thermostat went out that should be replaced? When I start driving again the gauge comes back down. I have noticed that the fans arent kicking on, but when I turn the a/c or heat on then they do.
View 14 RepliesThe heat works fine when driving but when car is idling there is no heat, the blower is working just blowing cold air, the temp gauge reads normal???
View 3 RepliesWhy my Passat will not put out any heat when idling? I recently had some body work done (right front fender replaced) and it seems like this has started to happen...any possibility they didn't hook up some line...???
View 12 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford Focus. The heat in my car stays hot while I am driving but when I stop at a light or slow down the heat goes very cool.
View 1 Replies2007 f150 5.4 supercrew, average temp for the last 2 weeks was -27. I plug the truck in all night it starts good and idles down fast engine is warm. no heat after idling for 3-5 min and then try to drive it takes another 5 min for the temp gauge to hit full temp 192. then my windows fog over even the dash and there is minimal heat coming out takes another 10-15 min to clear the windows. what the "F". fulid levels up, winter front on, block heater works, not using or smelling antifreeze, brush off every last speck of snow and I still have to pull over on the highway and wait......should have kept my 95 5.8l.
View 10 RepliesI have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
View 4 RepliesSo earlier today I came up to a red light and my car just stalled randomly. So I put it in park and it started right back up and drove just fine. It's an 06 2.4L 131k miles. What could have caused this?
View 4 RepliesMy wife was driving her 2008 Gen II Prius and stopped at an intersection. The car died. She had it towed back home, and I have been able to do all of the following:
1) Checked 12v battery voltage. Battery was bad - approx. 10.4 volts.
2) Switched battery with my other Prius (checked voltage first, and that battery was 12.4v and other Prius starts fine).
Car won't start.
3) Pressed brake "very hard" and pushed Start button. --- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
4) Checked voltage of battery again with digital volt meter -- 12.4v
5) Checked headlights -- Very bright.
6) Checked dome light -- Very bright.
7) Checked door locks -- Locks & unlocks rapidly.
8) Checked emergency flashers -- All lights blink/flash brightly.
9) Made sure all features listed above are off, pressed brake pedal, pushed Start button again -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
10 Checked voltage of battery again -- 12.4v
11) Tried other key FOB -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
12) Replaced battery on key FOB -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
13) Pushed Start button without depressing brake (to try to initiate accessory mode) -- No accessory mode. No lights on dashboard.
14) Checked voltage of battery again -- 12.4v
I recently inherited this car from a relative, I had it and two other vehicles she owned towed to my house about a week ago. The Sonata has under 1000 miles on it and I found a stack of repair orders from the dealer where she complained that the car wouldn't move or where it had been towed after getting stuck at an intersection while driving.
What is happening is that when I get in the car, with the engine cold, it starts up and drives fine. Then with no pattern or warning, when I stop at an intersection, the transmission acts as if its in neutral. It won't go into any gear, regardless of where I put the shifter. Its got the 2.4L GDI motor. and an automatic trans.
I had to tow it 5 times now. I took it to the local dealer and they found nothing wrong, no codes, and couldn't reproduce the problem. Yet when I went to pic it up, it did it a block from the dealer, I had to push the car to the shoulder at the light. I walked to the dealer, they had a tech come out to the car and by the time he got there the problem was gone. I took it home, and when I got home, I shut it off, then tried starting it and moving it again and nothing, it wouldn't move at all, no forward, no reverse. I find that if I cycle the key, on and off, sometimes the issue will go away instantly. I also never does it cold, only after driving it a bit. It has never done anything wrong while driving at speed, only when coming to a stop and trying to move again.
When it happens, the shifter moves fine, the engine revs and there are no warning lights on the dash, it just acts like its in neutral regardless of what gear the shifter is in. It doesn't creep or pull at all, there's no movement at all when it acts up and I have to drive it to get it to do it, it can idle in the driveway all day and won't do it till I take it down the road and come to a stop and try to start moving again.
Out of frustration I bought a scan tool to see what's up but as long as the scan tool is plugged in, it doesn't act up. I've been driving it for two days without it doing it. Thinking it may be just coincidence, I unplugged the scan tool, took a ride and it did it at the first intersection, I had to shut the car off, plug in the scanner to get the car back home. I called the dealer and was told that this was impossible.
I'm starting to feel like I'm on my own with this one since the dealer seems to not be able to find the issue. I am really having a hard time believing that the dealer can't make it act up but if they're plugging a scan tool in, and driving it, maybe that's why?
When driving if you ease off the accelerator at an intersection and go again the car hesitates badly and then slowly picks up it has had new plugs etc., very worried nearly got wiped out this morning...
View 1 RepliesI purchased a certified automatic 2013 Mini Cooper a week ago. After a total of 254 miles driven off the lot, the accelerator quit responding in the middle of an intersection. I was attempting to make a left turn. Only the accelerator quit functioning, everything else seemed ok. The engine didn't even rev when the pedal was pushed to the floor. I was pushed out of the intersection and shut off the car. When I restarted it the gas pedal was operational. No codes presented, and the dealership couldn't detect codes on their equipment. They sent the info to the MINI technical department (their engineering team) who said it was a software issue. The service rep who passed this on to me said that the Techs data showed there was an "error" which caused the failure, they could verify that using the data, and that a software update would be done to correct the problem. However, the MINI service department will only document on the paperwork that an update was done, they will not document the error in writing. Seem weird? I have serious doubts about this car in our brief history together.
View 13 RepliesMy '05 Dodge Neon's engine just quit when I was stopped at an intersection. All the lights, etc worked. When I turned the key the engine would sound like it started for a brief moment, but it always died a second later and didn't respond to pressure on the gas pedal. I took it to a shop that replaced the alternator, throttle sensor, and "idle air control mtr". A few days later, the car died the exact same way when I was driving down the road. I took it to a second mechanic who looked it over the next day, and it was running. He couldn't find the issue, and it didn't die when he drove it. I don't know if these symptoms are related, but a few minutes before it broke down the first time it jerked and the gauges went crazy. I had a check engine light for "not reading fuel level" or something like that after the first repair but before the second break down, which my first mechanic dismissed as not really important when I asked him about it. My lights also flicker a lot. Battery was replaced last year.
View 4 Replies