Saturn - Sc :: 1993 - A/C Malfunction - Air Flow Fades Away After An Hour
Sep 9, 2011
I have a 1993 Saturn SC1 with 200K miles and two problems. I can run the AC on a hot day for nearly an hour, then the air flow fades away even though I can hear the fan still running. If I turn it off for a while, I can then turn it on again, and it runs fine for a while but then fades again. On a cold, rainy day, even though the fan blows fine out the dashboard vents toward me and my passenger, there isn't enough air blowing out of the vents below the windshield, which fogs up so I can't see.
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I have a 2000 Saturn with about 140,000 miles on it. This morning after driving a short distance (maybe 2blocks) to the local gym my car wouldn't start when I came out about an hour later. When I put the key in and give it the first turn to the "run" (think that is what it's labeled) position the dash lights headlights, ac, radio, etc all turn on fine, however when I try to turn it to "start" nothing happens. No noise, no clicking, nothing.
This is the second time this has happened to me, first time was roughly a month ago pretty much the exact same situation drove a short distance this time the car was only off for maybe 10-15 minutes and wouldn't start. However, that time when I went back to my car about 30 minutes later it started just fine, that was not the case this time.
After that first time I brought my car into the local shop to see what the problem was, the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. Can't recall everything he said he checked (battery, starter, alternator if I recall) and said everything was good and the conclusion he came to is that I must have left a light on or something. Which I didn't, as it was in the middle of the day and my dome light is always set to off anyways and the headlights weren't on and the doors were all properly closed and what not.
Also, I had the battery and spark plugs replaced about a year ago and aside from that everything in my car seems to be working fine...
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I have a 1993 Mazda MX-6. For the past 2-3 years, my car shudders when it idles or goes less than 10 miles an hour. More and more lately, it has been shutting off completely when I drive slow or come to a stop. The first few weeks it was happening, one day while in a Burger King drive-thru (of all places- how embarrassing), it shut off and I couldn't get it to start again.
The mechanic I took it to replaced the distributor to fix it. It has not had a problem starting anymore since then, but it still shudders very hard. Could it be something else that's wrong?
I have also discovered that turning on the air conditioning keep the RPMs to stabilize, and the higher I turn the A/C, the more power it seems to get. Don't know if that is related.
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Truck is a 1993 ranger 4.0 ohv
Ok I have been getting 157, 158, and 159 codes. I have cleaned and replaced the MAF with no success. I checked the voltage to the sensor 12v, checked the voltage from the signal wire and it is to high. It has been high on the cleaned unit and on both replacements, so I am thinking it is not the MAF, but what will cause it to register high. I cant get the signal voltage below 1.9V at idle.
Signal also reads high with the ignition on and the engine off. What would cause the voltage to be high, I have read it could be an IAC but I would think that would not effect it with the engine off.
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I just had my 2007 Prius serviced. After the service, my car broke down within 10km of the shop. The shop determined that the air flow meter had malfunctioned and wants to charge me about $500 to replace the part. Could the air flow meter have been damaged when the vehicle was being serviced? Specifically, when the air filter was removed and inspected during the servicing. It seems plausible that shop did something to cause the problem.
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I have a 1993 Saturn with very low mileage (roughly 36,000 original miles) that I inherited from my grandma about 5 years ago. Early in the summer (May/June), when I would turn the a/c on, I started hearing a low squeaking/squealing sound when I would come to a stop. When I would start moving, turn off the a/c, put the car in neutral/park, it would go away. Over the past few months, I have noticed the squeaking/squealing getting louder and more so at night when the lights are on and during the day when there is a lot of moisture in the air and it really squeals loud every so often when I start moving from a stop until I hit around 2000 rpm.
The car idles at around 500 rpm and that is when I notice the noise the most. I have checked the belt and it appears to be in good shape (no cracking or fraying, it appears to be dry) and the tension appears to be good and when I got the oil changed last month, the guys at the Valvoline Quick Lube said it looked good as well. With the noise coming more often at night when the lights are on (or during the day when it is raining and I have the lights on), I have thought about taking the alternator off and getting it checked at the local parts store to see if when it gets put under load, it squeals there and to see if it is functioning properly. Could it be the alternator or something else, like the belt?
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Our 1993 Saturn SL1 wouldn't start this morning (this never happens). After we turned the car off, it made this "dugga, dugga, dugga" noise that seems to come from below the emergency brake. Even though the car has been off, the noise has been happening intermittently since this morning. We just replaced the battery a month ago.
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11 months and 3 weeks ago a mechanic I trust replaced my a/c. Two weeks later I rear-ended another car.
There was minor cosmetic damage but it ran as before. A week after that began the record setting Texas summer heat wave and my car got so hot the mirror gauge registered 125 in a fast food line. This is the only time it got that hot. Once we got moving everything seemed fine.
A couple of days later the a/c ran for about 10 minutes then stopped. Slowly the time the unit cooled decreased until it stopped working. I took the car back to the mechanic. He stated the pressure measured up to 100 psi and the temperature was above the rating for the a/c system.
He fixed a short in the radiator/engine fan, the temperature problem never returned and the pressures were high but my a/c worked.
At first the a/c seemed to work fine but then it began to work only sometimes. When it did work it would sometimes work in "hybrid" mode which you Saturn owners recognize as cooling at the reduced level that saves gas in stop and go traffic -- or not at all as we say in TX.
I took it back. The mechanic now explained the I'd voided the warranty because the short in the radiator fan allowed the car and a/c system to get too hot. The high heat had burned some sort of internal valve in the compressor.
The valve is unreliable. The performance of the a/c is mainly temperature dependent. The hotter the day the less likely the a/c will produce enough of a pressure difference to open this valve. Warm days the system will probably cool. Hot days it will probably not.
Being a CarTalk listener and an former nerd I thought of and tried a way to magnify the pressure difference using rpm. It works but the hotter the day the higher and longer I have to rev the engine. Now I'm burning oil for the fist time ever. Did I cripple my air conditioner or does my trusted mechanic learn a little to little when he learned to repair my hybrid a/c system?
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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I was having intermittent problems with my key fob. I replaced several times, but still had problems with it not working. (A real joy when the alarm is armed). Recently, the driver's door switch (lock/unlock) failed completely. All of a sudden, the key fob is working perfectly (so far) again. Could the failing switch have been causing the fob malfunction all along? I'd like to use the fob, but I'm not fond of the part where the car is alarmed and it won't disengage.
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My AC is not working well. It's cold for a few seconds and then room temp for a minute or so and then cold for a few seconds. The system is charged and it fades in and out at all settings. Does a temp sensor control how long the cold air is allowed to run as well as how cold it is?
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I Have a 2009 camry le that I bought used and I have noticed that the FM Radio fades in and out like its not getting good signal. Why Radio signal Booster go bad or know what could cause this? This is just the plain radio that comes in an LE.
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Have a 2010 Camry SE. Camry was broadsided in an accident and ever since radio has not worked properly. Radio was replaced by Toyota dealer with a new one but still same problem. Stations fade in and out like receiving weak signal. Is it possible that something connected to the antenna system was damaged in the wreck?
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I have a 2014 Avalon Limited and love the car a great deal. I have subscribed to the Sirius Satellite radio and it's been nothing but a pain in the butt since day one . It fades in and out constantly. If I get five min. with out this happening that would be a long time . Called service and the guy told me this is a big problem with this car .... told me there were not enough towers?
Do you think it is the car or is there a problem with the Avalon and satellite reception?
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Every now and then, my satellite radio fades in and out. I cannot pin it on rain as it sometimes happens when it is clear. I can hear programming, but only 1 second samples, with fuzz for a second then again, 1 second of programming.
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I have a 2005 Nissan Quest and the odometer area which also displays the fuel gauge fades in and out. random numbers fade away and reappear. Fuel level bars also fade and reappear. What could cause this? It is just old or is there another cause?
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I have a 2003 Eddie Bauer with the v10, the problem I am having is at random times the brake peddle will just fade away. It doesn't go all the way to the floor but pretty close. I had the master cylinder replaced and that did not fix it. I took it back in and had them bleed the entire system along with the analoc system, they tested the analoc system and said that was not the problem. Brakes did fine for about a week and has now started to fade away again.
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I have a 96' Ranger 4.0 5 speed. While driving, if I put the truck under a load such as going uphill or towing, the air conditioner fades out and blows warm air. Once I start downhill the air will come back on. It is much worse when towing.
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I have a 2004 solara and I wanted to know what are some signs of a blown head gasket. My car doesn't overheat, there's no milky color in my oil and my coolant hasn't gone down or leaked. Reason why I think I have a blown head gasket is sometimes when I start my car (first start of the day) white thin smoke comes out of the tailpipe and then fades away. There's no smoke when I drive or rev the engine. I've had a few people tell me it's a blown gasket.
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My audio fades in and out, Solara 2006 convertible. This is caused by defective switch - when the top comes down, it activates a switch to increase the audio volume to compensate for the increase noise from the wind.
How do I remove the right rear inside side panel? The switch is back there. I figured out how to remove the rear seat, I just can't figure out how to remove the side panel?
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I have a 2002 Kia Optima. The headlights have been flickering as well as every light inside the car. When they're doing this, if I press on the brakes, everything fades out. Such as the radio, headlights get very dim, air conditioner fades out. The car almost comes to the point of stalling. I've had the alternator replaced but the problem continued. I have asked several mechanics but they are baffled.
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