Saturn - Sl :: 2002 - Automatic Transmission - Shifting Delay When Put In Reverse Gear
Feb 20, 2011
I'm having problems with my automatic transmission in a 2002 Saturn SL. About 2 months ago I noticed a delay when I would put my saturn in reverse and it would sort of kick into gear after a few seconds (up to 10seconds sometimes). I wasn't worried much about this at first until another problem started happening. Between second and third gear it seems to be shifting slow/hard(?). I can feel where it wants to shift, but its slow to shift and actual revs high before shifting down. The problem doesn't always exist, and some days its more then others. We took it to get a transmission fluid/filter change and this didn't solve the problem. Took it back for a transmission diagnositc and GM told us we need to replace the transmission or do an overhaul. They didn't explain why really though- no clear answer. I've heard everything from the torque converter to a solenoid problem.
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I started experiencing a delay in my shift points going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Then today I was driving and my automatic transmission wouldn't shift into third gear...the speedometer stuck at 20 mph...and it would rev all the way to red line, but wouldn't shift.
There is no "abnormal" noise coming from the transmission, or from the drive train. I suspect that this has something to do with the shift points and the computer rather than a mechanical problem with the transmission.
I would like to know what it could be before I take it into the dealer to get it diagnosed.
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I have a 2008 Accent (base model for the most part, no C/C), and my transmission seems to be slipping a bit. The symptoms are: slow acceleration, a delay in gear shifting, and after the 30MPH mark, it takes forever to get up to anything near 60. I just wanted to know if it's a simple solution such as topping off the transmission fluid, or if it's a bigger issue.
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2002 Saturn L200 Automatic Shifter. Anyway, I can turn the car on fine. I can push the brake and move the shifter fine. But no matter what gear im in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 3, 2, 1 the car still rolls. Also the indicator lights to the left of the shifter are messed up too. When I am in park position, the indicator lights shows I am in reverse. When in reverse it says neutral etc. What the problem is. If i could move the shifter fine why wont it change gears? and how can i fix the indicator lights?
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So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
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I have a 2010 Matrix with automatic transmission. 5.5 year old with only 44,000 KM ... The transmission jerks annoyingly when up-shifting from gear one to two. I replaced the transmission oil and had Toyota service confirm there is a problem.
I read that the accumulator should be checked and adjusted as well as the throttle which can be done without removing the transmission, but Toyota tells met hat everything is now electronic and there is nothing to adjust. How to proceed?
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just bought a 2003 camry 4 cylinder with 126xxx miles automatic, everything seem fine when i was test driving and all. I bought the car and finally drove the car for around town running errands and all of a sudden i started to noticed a stutter in between shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
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The Accent has been working great recently until the other day when I got in to go to work and now it suddenly shifts very hard into 2nd. And sometimes 3rd.
This problem seems to come and go. Sometimes it will shift smoothly. Other times it will have to reach super high rpm and I will have to let off the gas and slowly accelerate to get it to shift. This seems to happen throughout all the gears and it does not make any difference if overdrive is turned on or off. Also reverse works just fine.
I checked the fluid and it is at the proper level. It does seem to be a little dirty (not burnt) so I am planning on changing the transmission fluid, but something tells me that is not going to solve this issue. It seems like an electrical issue to me. What it could be?
There are no codes at all on the car. Don't know if it matters but the car just turned over to 100k miles. I've been reading on here about all the problems the automatic trannys have in this car but 100k seems a bit early to have any serious transmission problems.
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My car has 190,000 miles on it, automatic transmission. About 1.5 years ago I had issues where it would slide into and out of drive gear. I was told valve body had crack and it was replaced. Transmission worked well. Today I went to friend move and not long after leaving acted funny driving and then felt like something 'gave' in drive train and it only went up to second gear and then only first gear would work. Shifting up and down with lever wouldn't change anything, first gear works fine shifting in and out, just doesn't go up into second or drive, and reverse doesn't do anything. I was told if cv joint had given way, there would be clunking, no clunking. Told that maybe it was low fluid, but checked just now standing still and fluid is at or above the full line and looks very clean.
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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Took my car in for oil/filter change and in some odd circumstance, the young mechanic managed to drain 1 liter of transmission oil out of my car (which I didn't know at the time). After driving for 10 minutes (~5 km), I noticed my reverse gear wasn't shifting properly. After ~30 minutes of driving, my car was smoking from the exhaust pipe (turns out he had overfilled my engine oil too!!). Took the car back in to complain the mechanic supervisor claims my transmission is still fine and all I need to do is refill the lost fluid. Another independent mechanic later tells me my transmission line is likely fried if I had experienced what I did, and those guys should be responsible to replace everything. Since fluids have been topped up, I have no proof of who is right. So my question is, if I only drove for maximum 50 km after my transmission fluid was drained and engine oil overfilled, would that be enough to cause serious damage to the car?
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I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3 and a 6 speed ZF transmission. My problem is that when you go to shift into any gear inc. reverse the transmission stays in 5th gear. I pulled the shifter and tried to do it from top of transmission it still stays in 5th. Any thoughts that I could possibly check?
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I have a 1999 Mazda 626. Lately, it seems to shift into 2nd gear much too late - ~5000 rpm - regardless of acceleration. Is there a good place to start diagnosing this problem? I've heard everything from new tranny to neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2002 Town and Country LX with the 3.3L V6. Recently the check engine light went on and later the transmission stopped shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. All the gears work properly except for 4th. It doesn't seem like anything is wrong with the transmission, would this be a sensor problem? If so which sensor would need to be replaced?
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There is never an issue when the weather is warm, but as soon as the first cold day in September in New York occurs, we usually have to wait 5 minutes or longer to shift the car into reverse or drive.We have taken the car to several repair shops to deal with this nuisance repair, and no one seems to want to investigate.
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2006 GX470, ~65k mi. When shifting from P to R, P to D, or R to D, the transmission often (but not always) seems to have to think about it a while. When it shifts fine it takes about 1sec for the transmission to change gears. When it's being cranky it takes ~4secs. There are no other symptoms.
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I have a 2005 2.5 vw jetta.
It has 150,000 miles....the cars been working just fine untill DEC of last year. I had the dealer check the transmission fluid and they said it was low....so they flushed and refilled the transmission oil...they didnt see any metal but that didnt fix the problem.....
Now i have the car not shifting correctly ....theres a delay when shifting in all gears but it is intermittent, sometimes it shifts hard and sometimes you can just baby the throttle and it wont shift as hard.....once on the freeway the car runs fine......but when coming to a stop you can feel the downshifting.....
I figured it has something to do with the valve body....my concern is the dealerships have quoted me 2000$ to replace the valve-body....the cars paid for and was wondering if i should just move onto a different jetta or fix this one?
If i fix the valve body will this jetta have the same issue later? Also i do have the vacuum pump leaking engine oil....not much can this be fixed while doing the valve body job???
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I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Galant, 4cyl., 165, 000 miles. Without previous symptoms, one day the transmission developed a delay of 5 to 30-seconds before it would engage in reverse. The fluid was clean and I have been using the Mitsubishi brand that they recommend. So I replaced the original transmission with a used one. But the reverse delay continued, even with a different transmission. So I removed the used transmission and rebuilt the original one. The problem STILL remained. Since then, the valve body has been replaced and the speed sensor has been replaced. I cannot figure out why there is a delay when putting it into reverse. I ran out of solutions. I did notice one day that when I first start the car, and the engine is at 1000 RPM's or more, the reverse wouldn't engage. Then, as the RPM's dropped to about 200 RPM's, the reverse would engage. I thought maybe this would be a clue.
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For the past two years I've noticed a decrease in fuel economy and recently noticed that the truck did not "feel" as if it had the same power especially when towing. Checking all the usual suspects with the engine turned up nothing and the transmission wasn't showing any signs of problems other than an occasional delay going into reverse. But it had been doing that for years and so I just ignored it.
Recently the torque converter started acting up and had some other occasional shifting delays and so decided to put the vehicle in the shop. The electronics all checked out and so a HD rebuild kit was ordered. The truck was finished this morning. Just barely pressing the accelerator makes the vehicle instantly start forward with noticeable zip. Plenty of power at all speeds, the engine now feels like new.
I suspect the main culprit was the torque converter. It wasn't enough to notice in excessive rpms nor heat (at least according to the instrument gauge) but the loss is noticeable in hindsight when compared to the repaired system. Over the next few weeks I'll get some mileage numbers and will know for sure whether I've found the sole cause of my power problems but I am sure that I've made a fairly large step in solving them.
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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