Is there some common issue with this? Purchased the vehicle new in 2008, and in 2011 we have had to have the car in for this issue at least once a year. They replace one, then the other, then back to the first one, and now it appears the second is not working again. Each winter we run into this. The dealer will only warranty for a year, so I am paying each time.
View 1 RepliesDo I need to do anything other than disconnect the battery to disable the airbags on this car so I can replace the ignition lock?
View 30 RepliesI have a 1999 Saab 95, auto, 4 cylinder. I believe the fuel pump is going out. The car will sometimes stall at a stop light and when I stepped on the gas hard it sound/feels like it's stalling but gets going again!! I already checked the fuse, what else can it be? The car has of 100k on it and it's the original fuel pump.
View 12 Replies have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
I recently went to a local chain to have my oil changed and tires rotated. Later that evening when I went to turn on my headlights for the first time since the oil change neither one was working. When I brought back the car the next day to see if they could look at this to see if anything reset accidentally I was told that both lights were burned out and it was a coincidence. It seems unlikely that both headlights would go out at once (high beams were OK) and that it would have happened right after the oil change. I couldn't say what would have caused this but wanted other opinions on if it was likely related to the oil change.
View 19 RepliesWe just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
View 30 RepliesAfter having my car serviced at Halvoline Xpress Lube it immediately made a noise when I turned on the heater / vent. It sounds like "grrrrrrrrrrr" and there is a vibration in the dash and a little bit of vibration in the steering wheel. It feels like the car pulls a bit when I have the vent turned to the highest setting. The higher I turn the vent, cool or heat, the louder the sound.
The work they did was:-oil change-rotate tires-pulled out two filter to show me the condition then put them back
I took it back a couple weeks later, they checked the filters, said they were fine, checked stuff, I don't know what but they seemed earnest in their efforts. They took the glove compartment apart and poked around. They couldn't understand how it was related to their work and suggested I go a mechanic and keep them posted.
It's either an amazing coincidence that when I pulled out of their garage my car developed a problem, or that they did something goofy and don't know what it is.
Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
View 3 RepliesIs it my wheel bearing, rotors or brake pads?
How do I describe it... well it has this squealing noise and it's proportional to my speed.
Heard this while I had my windows rolled down.
My mother in laws 2012 Santa Fe had a number of dash lights on (ABS, hill decent, stability control). I put my scanner on it and came up with fault code C1209 which showed up as a faulty right rear wheel speed sensor. I have replaced this module and then cleared the codes.
However, the dash lights still light up and the vehicle continues to throw the same code. I don't work on Hyundai's very often so I am at a bit of a loss.
Early 90's Toyota Corolla.
I've been hearing this sound the past couple weeks coming from the rear of the car. Not related to the rpm, only occurs if the car is moving slowly -- like when I'm driving in a parking lot, looking for a space. Occurs when turning, even slightly, but not when going dead-straight. It it intermittant, seems to occur more often on hot afternoons, never heard it all winter, or even now in the morning. Not that loud, but noticeable. Sounds a little bit like a vibration, sort of a buzzing sound, but more musical than a simple buzz.
The best way I can describe it is that it sounds almost exactly like that sound they make in kids cartoon shows on Saturday morning, when something bad happens, like one of the characters get hit on the head with a baseball bat ..." waah waah waah" .. sort of like a muted trumpet or muted trombone.
Rear wheel bearings? Brakes?
Recently the dealer damaged the leather on my steering wheel and is having a guy repair it. Work obligations have made it very difficult to get time to take the car in and I would have to really squeeze to get the car in to them at the moment.
View 10 RepliesI have a rear wheel bearing type of noise that appears to come from the rear. My vehicle is front wheel drive and has 135K miles.
I checked the rear wheel bearing/hub assys on both sides and they had no play but I changed them anyway. Noise did not change at all. Rear tires have normal wear, no cupping or anything. Noise gets louder with increasing speed up to a point and then remains a constant level.
My next thought is to check the front wheel bearings/cv joints.
Since I got my car back from the dealership after changing the rear shock this summer, I can feel a vibration in the car at highway speed. After the shock were replaced the car steering wheel was out of balance and pulling one side. After they attempt to align the car about 5 times it got a little bit better. Then I found out that they had an accident with my car and tried to hide it: [URL] ....
I suspect the tie rod may have been damaged so that could explain the steering issue. It also seems to have gotten worse over time. I'm trying to figure out the possible cause, if directly related to the tie rod damage or indirectly as if the tie rod damage could have caused uneven tire wear and then causing the vibration over time. I've attached some pictures, the 2 first are from the front passenger side, the 2 last from the front driver side. My tire are the Michelin pilot and this thread seems to suggest those tire might be hard to align properly: [URL] ....
I'm due for my winter tire change soon and see if thing gets better, I'll get them balanced too. I'll check at the same time for control arms/shock damage. But still, I would like some feedback and see if those tread wear are normal and hopefully get to the root of the problem (the outer edge on the tire in the back are much less damaged).
So I was replacing a wheel stud and while taking the caliper out, I accidentally unscrewed the brake fluid bolt and it drained a little bit of fluid out. I had to decompress the caliper to put the brake pads in.
Everything was placed back the correct way, now the brake feels too spongy and I have to press the pedal all the way to stop the car. not feeling safe.
I'm not sure what needs to be done here.. did I somehow get air in the system? the brake fluid cap was on the whole time.
I have a 2006 VW Golf with 140,000 miles. Last week took it to the shop to have a wheel bearing replaced. Mechanic also replaced the wheel hub. When I left the shop I discovered a new problem that had not previously been there. Now the Anti-lock brakes are kicking in at the very end of a soft stop on smooth, dry roads and even in my garage. This happens about 20% of the time, but never during a hard stop. I took it back to the shop on Monday and mechanic could not find anything and was perplexed. The question is whether the ABS sensor could have been damaged during repairs and is the car safe to drive?
View 14 RepliesI bought two new factory fresh speed sensors to replace the ones. So, after work tonight I get the car up on jack stands and replace both sensors in about 45 minutes. Get it off the jack stands, torque down the rims and reset the dash lights. Nice clean dash display with no warning lights.
I drive it down the street, nice speedometer display and then, after about 100 yards, the warning lights come on and the speedometer flickers from 22mph to 2 then 10 then 1 then zero. I drive it back home, check the sensors and the connections, reset the lights again, drive it down the street and, same story.
Well... my ABS light popped on two days ago. I was pulling a 6x12 trailer filled with random yard waste and other junk at the time. Not sure if that triggered it or not... So right away I changed the speed sensor on the rear diff... that is usually the cause plus it's only a 15 dollar part and 10 minutes to change out so I figured why not. The light is still on. So I go to my local Advanced Auto (where I bought the sensor from) and I get a free scan.
According to their scanner, both front wheel speed sensors AND the rear sensor on the diff (which I just replaced) are bad. Does this sound right? I've heard a low battery can sometimes trigger the ABS light too. The truck continues to drive perfectly normal like nothing happened. Brakes, speedometer, cruise, etc. EVERYTHING still works perfect. Just got that damn light on... so what say you FTE?
A couple of weeks ago I came home from work to find my front passenger side wheel completely deflated. I didn't think much of it at the time and thought someone must have let it down. However, ever since then I have had a very low pitched intermittent 'whomp' sound coming from it, when braking at a low speed. When the car comes to a stop, so does the noise.
I'm beginning to suspect that the tyre being deflated was due to it not being properly sealed to the wheel. I'd parked half on/half off the pavement outside my house with the passenger side on the road. I assumed the tyre deflated because it couldn't handle the weight of the car on the tyre. I've inspected the tyre and there are no obvious punctures and the wheel has remained inflated ever since and I've now agreed with my housemate that I can use the drive to park it on for the time being to stop it happening again.
However, before the deflation everything was fine with the car and there was definitely no 'whomp'. What it may be/ways to check what it is myself and/or potential costings of taking it to a mechanic?
I dropped off my 2006 Mercury Milan at a local Ford dealer this morning to have an AC temperature chip replaced because my air was not cold and prior diagnostics determined the chip no longer functioned. This turned out to be quite a costly repair. I was told it took 9 hours of labor requiring the entire dashboard to be removed. After picking up my car, I started driving home and immediately noticed the steering wheel was angled about 45 degrees to the right while I was driving straight. I have never seen something like this (and my car has been out of alignment before). I took it back to Ford to tell them that the steering wheel was crooked while the tires were straight and the manager said she didn't know how this could have happened because they never even lifted the vehicle. What might be wrong? Silver lining...the AC works now.
View 13 RepliesMy 2005 GMC Sierra has just >80,000 kms on it, and I'm having to replace a second wheel bearing hub. A few months ago, the rear left wheel almost came off because the bearings were falling out of the hub. Yesterday, the same thing happened while traveling on a highway with the front left wheel. While my truck was being pulled up onto the tow truck, all the bearings fell out of the wheel - one was completely ground, the others were perfect. A few more turns or bumps and I suspect I would have lost the wheel.
I didn't have any grinding noises with the front tire (although I did with the rear) - the front hub deteriorated really quickly (within 100kms of driving), and it sounded like cables snapping while driving which was likely the bearings tumbling around.
Having problems with the GMC Sierra wheel bearing hubs/integrated ABS sensors? Should the hubs be wearing out so quickly? It seems like a safety hazard to me, since there wasn't any early warning signs of a major hub meltdown.
And I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I've also had to have my rotors ground down 3 times and replaced once since new.