Sebring - Chrysler :: 2001 - Engine Starts Then Immediately Shuts Off?
Jan 12, 2013
A couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
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My friend's 04 Sebring (6cyl) is overheating. After start up, almost immediately the water bubbles in the radiator and heat builds. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and even rebuilt the heads - still the overheating issue. What may be the problem and how to correct?
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Earlier today i noticed a loop hanging under my car. When i removed the item it turned out to be my AC/Alternator belt. Thinking it was bad i went ahead and got a new one. Prepared for a hard battle i find that the part slips on easily. now i can not get the belt tight at all it had about an inch or 2 of slack. I do not have a repair manual and i do not have the money for one. I can not find a diagram for my specific engine. It is a 2001 Chrysler Sebring with a Mitsubishi 3.0L 24 Valve Engine. What am I doing wrong? I need this fixed to go to work tomorrow.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica gt, and I had a accident on the front of the car. The only things needed to be replaced was the radiator and the Intake manifold.The car wasn't drivable for about 3 months, but within those 3 months I was able to work on replacing the radiator and the intake manifold ( which a crack on it). Now that I finished working on the car, the engine turns on but then it shuts off immediately. Everything was replace properly, I just don't understand.
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When I parked this car 2 months ago it ran fine. Went to start it up and it starts and shuts down. I do not think its the security issue. Both keys do the same thing.
Battery is new recently. There are no MIL lights working on the dash except the battery light. The actual dash lights will not come on. Doors will unlock but not lock. My VAG tester will not communicate with the ECU.
I have checked all of the fuses multiple times. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when the key is turned on. It appears that there is an electrical issue. I took the connections off of the ecu, waited a bit, check for cleanliness and reinstalled also.
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Let me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
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Having an intermittent problem on my 2002 Chrysler Sebring LX (about 132,000 miles). Often I can drive around and everything is okay. However, it seems like every 11 days or so, the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark and toward the danger zone. Only once has it gotten all the way up to the red danger zone and illuminated the warning light, and that was the very first time. It was fortunate that this happened the exact moment I reached home and parked in my driveway.
When the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark, I've tried to turn on the heater to cool it down, but this doesn't work. The heater just blows cold air. So far I have been taking the following steps:
1) Stop driving and park the car for 10 minutes or more.
2) Fill the coolant tank under the hood with coolant. I'm putting in about half a gallon each time.
3) Continue driving.
After this process, the heater is again blowing warm air and the temperature gauge is staying at a safe level. It seems to persist for about 11 - 14 days then the cycle starts all over.
It happened last night following a drive of about 5 miles home from the gym. Since I had no more driving to do that day, I just parked it overnight to see if this was a fluke and if it would be necessary to add more coolant.
This morning I drove the same 5 miles. Temperature gauge stayed pretty low for about half the trip, but then rapidly shot up. I got to the gym before it reached the danger zone (it was probably about 3/4 of the way up). I parked for a little over an hour while I went inside to exercise. Then I again added half a gallon of coolant and drove home without problems.
The last time I had overheating issues, the coolant rapidly spilled out of the bottom and the overheating was not preventable. I got the radiator replaced. This was in October 2013. I've also tried some of that stop leak fluid. It didn't work, but I'm not so sure I used it correctly. I didn't flush the tank and I think I might have poured it in on a normal driving day (coolant pretty full).
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I have an 03 f250 that i think is getting air in the fuel line when it sits. It turns over starts and immediately shuts off. Then i have to crank it for a minute or so before it will start. After that it is good all day. Next day it might sputter on start but stays on. More than a day it shuts off immediately and needs cranking for a minute...
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My daughter's 2001 Chrysler Sebring began "shaking and jerking" last night. She described it as similar to when a person drives a standard transmission that doesn't know how to do so. (Her car is an automatic.) She had been driving it for about ten minutes without a problem and had luckily just turned onto a residential street to pick up a friend. She said the check engine light came on as well. She was able to limp it to her friend's and leave it parked there.
Recent work on the car includes the thermostat being replaced and a resistor related to the heater blower motor being replaced. What might be causing this. She's probably going to have to have it towed.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Sebring Lxi Coupe with the 3.0-liter V6 engine and (in)famous Chrysler A-604 4-speed automatic transmission. Mileage is approx. 115,000. Several days ago, I was on the highway doing 60 mph when the car suddenly, and without making any noise, lost power, as if the engine had quit. When I gave it more gas, the rpm on the tach shot up quickly to 3500, but the car was still losing speed. The Check Engine Light never comes on. Long story short, I pulled over to the side of the road and got the car flat-bedded home. The engine starts and run normally, but the car will not move in any forward gears (drive, first or second) nor in reverse.
The OBD II module is not throwing any codes that are related to a transmission problem. The transmission fluid is not discolored and does not smell or look "burnt". The fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick. Up to this point, the transmission has performed and shifted flawlessly. I have serviced the transmission regularly every 30,000 miles since buying the car with 60,000 miles on it. I have been reading that this transmission was one of the first to be designed with electronically activated shifting, and has been installed in many models of Chrysler cars, vans, and pickups starting in 1989. Any way to check whether this may be an electrical/electronic problem first before getting a tow to a transmission shop for diagnosis of an internal mechanical failure requiring overhaul or a new trans?
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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I have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
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Engine oil has been changed and spark plugs changed. The engine is still making rattling/clicking noise. I checked with a mechanic and he indicated that engine needs to be repaired. Didn't say exactly what needs to be done and stated it would cost about $2200 for parts and labor. Why the engine keeps rattling and making the noise? Oh, before plugs were changed, the engine was shutting off at times when in idle mode.
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I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
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I have a 2004 Sebring my check engine light is on and the RMP's are really high while Im driving. What could be going on?
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About a week or two ago, when driving home, my battery light flicked on while at a stop light. Also, as the light wen t green and I accelerated away, I noticed a kind of 'whine' from the engine, like a turbine spinning up. By the time I got home it was fine again and the light out, and has been until today, when it happened again...I noticed that it happens if I have the AC on and I'm at a stop. If I turn off the AC when waiting at traffic lights, that seems to eliminate the battery light, but I still here the whine.
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I drive a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with about 130,000 miles on it.
I was driving down the highway in early November when the check engine light came on my car. I took it to Aamco who did some diagnosis and replaced a solenoid assembly in the transmission. The light went off and I was on my way. I never got the exact code.
About a month after that, the light came on again. This time, I got a low end code reader and scanned it myself. I got a "P0700" code, which I've read is a generic code that the transmission system sends to the computer or something. So I used my reader to erase it. However, the light came on 2 days later while I was driving down the highway at about 70 MPH.
So I went to an auto parts store to get a more detailed scan with a better tool. This one came up "P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit".
This feels weird, because the solenoid assembly was just replaced a month ago (and is still under warranty).
The car seems to drive okay. I don't notice any actual problems in shifting. The tachometer seemed to get up to about 3000 RPM on the highway. But I've seen practically new cars do that. The last time I had serious transmission problem it would rev up to about 5000 or 6000 RPM on the highway and still only getting up to about 40 MPH. That was 3 years ago and at the time I had a fairly expensive transmission repair (which included a new torque converter).
But like I said, the car seems to be driving okay. I don't drive much. Maybe 100 miles a week? And even that is mostly optional in town driving. I'm not looking to keep this car for more than another 20,000 to 25,000 miles though for the time being I cannot afford a new one.
What are the possible causes here? What are the consequences of ignoring this? Like I said, it's still driving fine and as the old saying goes "if it's not broke, don't fix it".
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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I was driving down the road for about 20 minutes. When I saw steam coming out. I was a block away from home so I thought I'd make it before anything bad happened. The light turned green and I hit the gas and a few seconds after that something popped. I continued driving and the engine screeched and I pulled into my driveway. I jumped out and opened the hood and there was coolant everywhere. Like covering the engine and the underside of the hood.
2002 Chrysler sebring...
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I am on my 3rd engine in this car (known issues unfortunately) and for the past few weeks have had problems with the engine feeling like it is quickly cycling through normal and 'losing pressure' at MPH over 40 when gas is going into the system. Mechanic replaced oil pressure sensor but problem recurred on next drive and AC cooling went out at the same time.
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2004 Chrysler Sebring Sedan, 4 cylinder dual-overhead cam. My check engine light came on this morning and the code came out as the catalytic converter. The car seems to be running fine, at least no recent changes. I'm debating replacing this vehicle soon, and I'm wondering if it's worth working on the catalytic converter. I recently replaced the cam shaft position sensor as well.
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