Starting - Accord :: 2004 V4 Begins To Crank Then Stops
Aug 6, 2011
I've got a 2004 V4 Honda Accord. For the past few weeks I've been having problems starting it. The engine cranks at first, but won't turn over and then the cranking slows and stops--over the course of a few seconds. If I let it sit for a second and try it again it will start on the 2nd or 3rd or 4th attempt. But then some days it starts without any problems at all.
It's very well-maintained, and I just recently splurged for one of those overpriced maintenance schedules from the dealership (though didn't mention this problem to them because I don't trust them). Hoses, lines, fuel connections etc. were all inspected. I took it to my local mechanic yesterday and of course it didn't have any trouble starting while I was there. The battery and starter tested fine, so he was at a loss.
Now it just occurred to me that the only thing that wasn't checked were the spark plugs, so of course that's my suspicion--and they are due for a change. Does this problem sound like it could be spark plugs?
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I have Honda Accord 2003 with 114000 miles on it. All of a sudden it started acting goofy while starting. It didn't start for first few attempts, there was little crank in first 2 attempts. After 3 attempts, I waited for 1 minute and started and it started immediately,just like a new car. This behavior only happens if it gets cold (Florida weather cold) or I let the car sit for 3 days. I left my car at the dealership 3 or 4 times. They couldn't replicate the issue.
I changed the sparked plugs and got my fuel injectors cleaned and also replaced a gas pressure pump. I even got it towed and once car got at the store it started on first attempt. I asked them to change the air filter. Since then its working fine but during start up when I turn the key to start, it feels like car struggles to start but it always start on first attempts. Dash lights, Radio, Wiper and everything works fine on ignition.
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Well I dunno what to do. I tried to start the car many times. The starter (or what ever part it is) seems to crank over and over for about five seconds and then stops. Nothing. Battery is fine. Everything electrical powers up. Just not the engine.
I just recently had the complete timing belt service done and oil change about two weeks ago. That's about it. Now I am a sitting duck tonight....
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So ive been having a problem with my 2004 Honda Accord. It on occasion doesn't start. I'm talking about once a month I run into this problem. When I do have this problem, I turn the key and it cranks but doesn't start. At the end of the crank I get a scratching noise. My alternator, spark plugs and battery are all fairly new (4 months old) and oem. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump failing.
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The problem started a month or so ago... seemed like a bad battery .. it would crank, then stop (like a dead battery) .. I'd then turn key back and try again and it would start right up... well, I went to Advanced Auto and they said I had a dead cell in my battery.. OK, new battery.. good for about a week.. then same issue.... well, it was off and on ... NOW.. (after having battery, alternator and starter checked) it won't even crank over ... Power comes on, lights work fine etc... every so often it barely tries to push the starter, but not much... it is just simply like a total dead battery.
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I have an 04 ford 6.0. It is an 03 model. It has 165xxx miles. It fires right up cold but, once warmed up it will crank but not even try to start. A little starting fluid and it will fire right up. I sent the FICM in and had it tested and it is good. I put in new 850CCA batteries and a 185 amp alternator so my voltage is good. I changed the fuel filter and the oil/oil filter, synthetic 5w-30. It isn't throwing any codes. I am really hoping it's not the HPOP but, think it's probably that or related to it.
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We have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
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I have an 05 F150 2WD Auto, 4.2 (work truck)...I have owned it since new, no accidents , no towing...used as an "extra car." It now has about 36K on it. About a month ago, I noticed a vibration felt throughout the vehicle. You definitely feel it in your backside and the rear of the truck. I have since purchased new tires, roadforced balanced twice, and also just had the front and rear u joints replaced. (the shop said the center was rather difficult to replace and would require sending the driveshaft out to replace) Nevertheless, the front and rear were replaced. They said the center u joint "seems" fine however.
The tires and wheels are pretty much perfect. The vibration begins around 30 mph or so and is most evident to around 50 mph...both on acceleration AND deceleration.
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I have a 1998 Honda accord with 4 cyl. engine. Recently, the engine would stop at then end of the first block after 8 hours or longer of parking. I am very light on the gas pedal. I generally release the gas and let it roll for a couple of seconds before applying the brakes at the stop sign and during the time, the engine seem to throttle a bit then stops. After a restart and applying gas, it seem fine. What can be wrong with it?
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My 1992 Accord driver side window goes down fine. But when you go up, it stops about ever 3 or 4 inches. You hit the button up and it wont do anything. Then you push up on it with your hands and it makes a *CLICK* noise. Then you hit the button up again, and it goes up another 3 or 4 inches. And you just repeat that until it goes up. Any clue what the problem is. I tried to get into it so i could try to investigate, but i had some probs gettin to it. I had the door panel off, disconnected the door handle mechanism and all that. Can i get any deeper than that? is there another sheet metal panel that can be removed?
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I have a 2009 Honda accord ex coupe and the Ac works fine when I'm driving but once I stop it stops and the air starts to get warmer but if I rev it at a red light the Ac starts to work and I have nice cold air. Both radiator and condenser fan work and are spinning and the same time when the Ac is on. The compressor will cycle on and off at idle but it will turn on for maybe two seconds. And turn off but if I have someone rev the engine it will kick on and stay on at about 1500rpm and the Ac works normally I have no leaks.
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1999 Honda Accord, about 200k miles, no start, the problem is spark. What I'm trying to figure out is why I don't have enough spark. I'll upload a video soon, but right now I'll just have to describe it: When cranking I get a few bursts of orange spark but then the spark stops. I can keep cranking for 2, 3, 4 seconds, but I won't get more spark. Tested at the coil, as well. There's a longer burst of initial spark there, but ends the same.
No check engine light (with key on, obvs. can't do it with engine running). Brand new distributor in the car.
Key Immobilizer light is not on. (I've read the immobilizer can get flaky. Appears to be working normally on this car.)
Ignition switch has been tested and is working normally. Battery has been fully charged.
I haven't tested the starter motor, maybe I should look at that? It seems to be getting slower. (Been working on this car awhile; cranking it a lot.) [Ok, just checked an Eric the Car Guy video - "if the engine cranks at all, it isn't the starter." ]
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My car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
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4.7 ltr 2WD starts fine and while cold runs fine. Seems after an hour or so of driving the engine begins to skip. Will idle just fine but when giving gas the engine skips and refuses to accelerate beyond 1700 rpm. Had the cats changed 6 months ago. someone suggested the MAF sensor might be bad....so cleaned it. Still runs rough. I suspect it might be a sensor. If I leave the car overnight ...runs fine in the morning. Engine gets hot....begins to skip and cannot accelerate unless going down hill. Vehicle skips especially when under a load.
Does the MAF sensor have anything to do with this? Maybe it could be the Engine Coolant Sensor? Not sure what to do. Don't want to throw parts at it without some idea what is causing it. BTW...no check engine lights at all. And nothing showed up on the computer when it was running rough. Tech told me cylinders 2 and 4 were not firing properly but immediately after cleaning the MAF sensor the car ran fine for 4 minutes then problem returned.
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Well I did it, moved Prius out of garage to drive, working on other car when Prius engine starts up runs a bit then stops. You should have seen the look on my wife's face, she just kept looking a me for a reason it would do that. We are still learning a lot about the Prius and she thought it may be normal. I started to tell her some high tech lie but decided to fess up and admit I had forgot to push the off button.
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1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
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At idle, on hot days (90+) after about a minute, the A/C cuts out and the temp gauge begins to rise. Gets about 3/4 of the way to the red zone, but never reaches it. I changed radiator cap, but still does it. Fluid level is fine; no coolant leaks that I can see. Called a mechanic and asked about a radiator flush. He said he'd do one, but it probably wouldn't work and I should just bring it in for a diagnostic.
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I have a 2002 Explorer 4 door with the flex fuel V6 engine with 157k miles. This has happened twice in a month. You got to start the truck and it starts to crank for a second and half and then it completely stops for a half second and then starts cranking again and fires up. The kicker is after it did this the instrument gauges, all of them, stayed at nothing when it started and then they all at the same time went to the highest level and then they all dropped back down to nothing and then rose to their perspective positions. My trip gauge reset it self to zero as well..
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Went to the mall the other day for a few hours, when I cam back out and when I went it start my car it would not start. Symptoms are weird, I can hear the starter begin to crank then it stops and the dash flickers on and off, interior and exterior lights flicker on and off, starter cranks on and off also. This keeps going until I push the start button again twice to turn the car off.
This keeps happening every time I try to start it. When I popped the hood I noticed the positive battery cover was open.. I closed it and when someone tried to start it for me the cover flew open. It was like 2 seconds after the starter cranked a master circuit breaker would trip, then reset over and over again.
Stranded on a Saturday, I had to join CAA online and request a tow to the dealership. The tow truck guy said I was the 4th push to start hyundai with exactly the same issues he had a call for that day. He went in the car vanished under the dash and got the car started. He would n't tell me what trick he did, but he said drive it to the dealer and leave it there as it was a one shot trick.
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I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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While driving on the highway, the cruise control shuts off and the speedometer stops working. Check engine light comes on. Car continues to run fine.
Five days later, I start the car and the following do not work: clock, intermittent wipers, neutral safety switch, tachometer, temperature gauge, gear indicator lights, rear defrost, windows, and I believe that is all. Car runs and drives fine. Other electrical items working. I check all fuses and only find one burned out - (#1, inside, labeled 'back up lights' meter lights) I replace the fuse and it blows when I start the car again. Take the car to AutoZone and they put it on their computer and it shows one code - P0501 - CVT speed sensor.
Two days later, the car will not start. Turns over strong, but will not start. I have checked the grounds on the transmission and body and they appear to be fine. Battery cables, also.
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