Starting - Nissan :: 2005 Not Starting - No Sound When Turn The Key
May 6, 2016
I have a 2005 nissan maxima that won't start. I have a new starter and battery. When I turn the key everything in the car comes on except for the car (it also makes no sound when you turn the key). I checked to see if it was the ignition switch by bridging the connection on the starter with a screw driving. The starter comes on but the car wont start. It tried starting it in neutral (still doesn't work). It's not the security because the light turns off when you try to start it.
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I am having issues with my 02 Nissan Sentra turning over when I am starting the car. First for some background my car has almost exactly 115k miles on it. I have noticed the problem is getting slowly worse and worse. What happens is when I turn the key the engine makes a slow grrrr and rev sound, then a slighty faster grrr and rev, followed by a faster one before it finally turns over. There have been instances before when I have have to give it a good two or three times before it would turn over at all. I am not sure what is causing the problem. I do have one idea is that recently my gas mileage has been going down so I added Techron from the auto shop before 2 of my last 3 fillups (I didn't on the last fill up since I was having the issues) Could that cause the problem? Other than that I am thinking maybe something with the battery (its a bit over 3 years old) or the spark plugs or fuel pump would be my best bet? I tried to take an audio recording of the issue but you have to really turn up the volume to hear the low lever grrr and revs before the car starts.
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My 97 Nissan pick up, 2.4L I4, 5 speed 182k miles has developed a screeching sound for about 15 to 30 seconds after starting. It sounds like a loose or slipping belt. I have replaced all three belts and the tension is right.
I pulled all the belts again and put them back on one at a time and determined that the belt for the water pump and alternator is the source. I checked all pulleys and components and cannot find anything with abnormal drag or roughness or noise.
I though maybe that I might have put too much tension on the alternator belt and maybe put to much side load on the alternator bearing so I loosened it slightly and that just made the screeching last longer. I also noticed that the duration of the screeching is extended when there is a load on the alternator, such as the blower motor or the headlights.
Once the screeching stops, it does not come back even with sudden changes in rpm or changes in load, i.e. blower motor or headlights, however, every time the compressor kicks on, there is a chirp. Before I replaced all the belts, the compressor belt was slipping on occasion and every time the compressor kicked on, it would screech for a few seconds, but its not AC weather right now.
I pulled off the alternator today and took it up to be tested to see if it would screech on the test set, not a peep and passed all tests. BTW, I am not having any issues with charging or starting, the battery is good. I did notice a wire bundle that runs under the air cleaner has abraded and one wire is bare, I'll address that tomorrow. I don't see any evidence of shorts in the bundle, all the abrasion is on one side and only one wire exposed, and it only touched plastic as far as I can tell.
Also, I cannot visually detect the slipping, the belt and the alternator appear to be moving smoothly, same with water pump, but its hard to tell because everything is spinning so fast. also, it is not bad if you just do a restart after driving, is will only screech for a second or two, but if it cools down, than it back to the 15 to 30 seconds of screeching, and its LOUD.
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My wife and I have a Nissan Quest 2000. Our vehicle broke down last November 21, 2010 and the mechanic replaced the alternator and the battery. Our vehicle worked fine after that, but two weeks ago the battery cable came loose and I had to have that fix, by another mechanic. Our van worked fine for a week and now the Quest takes 15-30 minutes to turn over. What is wrong?
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has intermittent starting problems. It doesn’t matter if the engine is cold, warm, or hot, time of day, or weather conditions. The car makes no sound and does not turn over when you try to start it. The idiot lights come on but no indication of the problem. The dealer “thinks” it’s the starter but not sure. They won’t replace the starter (#600.00) unless they are absolutely sure that’s the problem. The dealer waived the $150.00 diagnostic fee and concluded the vehicle is ok at this time.They started the vehicle 20 – 30 times without a problem.
Dealers notes on service report were: “Performed GRB electrical system test. The battery, starter and charging system all passed. They checked the A/C relay and is OK. Checked battery and starter connections and they are all ok. Warmed engine to normal operating temp and checked ECT voltage with HDS AIT is reading .6 volts which is in spec. Vehicle is ok at this time”.
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2005 Toyota Matrix. I know, bad year. Occasionally, I turn the keys in the ignition and I can hear the starter initiating, but the engine doesn't turn over. It's a seldom occurrence, sometimes lasting 5 minutes, sometimes 30, usually 2-3 times a week(car driven 4-5 times daily). Usually best practice for me is to walk away from the car for a time and come back later to try it. Shorter trips and rainy months tend to increase the problem. Took to Toyota dealer: replaced EMU(three times), oxygen sensor and fuel pump. None of which made any impact on problem. Dealership as never actually SEEN the problem, despite holding it for an entire week. Where should I have them poke around next?
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My 2005 Kia, with 139K miles has developed an intermittent symptom of refusing to start. When this happens, the flashers come on and there is no sound from the starter....dead...nothing. I accidentally discovered a way to make it start when I got out and opened the trunk . After closing the trunk, the car started right up. Someone told me this may be related to my alarm system.
5 or 6 times, I have had it happen and solved it with the trunk action. Before this all started, the driver's door lock stopped depressing to lock the car, using the remote, and I have to manually lock it or use the key,3 repair shops, including my local Kia dealer tell me that they cannot diagnose the problem unless it is doing it, but due to the randomness of the issue I can't fix it. I love my Amanti and have kept it serviced and maintained, but am afraid it's time to replace it.
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A few days ago, my 2002 Land Rover Discovery ran out of gas. I've never run out of gas before and when I called AAA and found out that it was just a gas problem my relief outweighed any embarrassment I had about the situation. The AAA guy and I filled the car up and poof- I was on my way..... Since then, the check engine light has come on and although the car runs great when it gets going, it's the getting going part that has become tricky. When I turn the key to start the car, it makes a clank clank chug sound. To get it going, I have to step on the gas and turn the key at the same time. If I do that, the car runs as normal and everything is fine.
I read the reviews for mechanics and have an appointment set. Is it possible that because the car was out of gas, that something else got burned up or junk got into the engine? How a car works but I'm imagining a empty tank that is supposed to feed into something and if nothing is there couldn't residue in the tank get sucked into the thing that it is supposed to feed?
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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My 98 Cirrus (V6 automatic) is not starting. The battery is working fine and it lights up everything...the wipers, headlight, the turn signals etc.... But when I turn on the ignition...nothing. I hear a mild thud followed by a brief hissing sound when I turn the key from the 1 position to the 2 position (referring to a 0-1-2-ignition key positions)...like "thuh...sssssss." It seems it comes from the underside of the car. Then when I turn from the second key position to start the engine, I get no response at all. I tried putting the gear in park / N...but no difference.
The weird thing is, approx 15 min before I attempted to start the car, I had to drive the car across the parking lot. It ran fine at that time. Could it be a fried starter motor?
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I have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
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I have a 2001 Nissan Quest that vibrates starting at about 60 mph. I have balanced the wheels more than once. I have had repairs to the suspension. Now I notice that it vibrates only when accelerating or going up hill - not when the foot is off the gas pedal. What repairs should I accept or reject?
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I am at my wit's end with my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder. In the last four months we have had periodic problems starting it. It will act like it wants to crank but won't fire up. However, a local mechanic and the Nissan dealer can't determine the problem. They have: ~ recharged the battery ~ replaced the battery cables ~ replaced the spark plugs ~ tested the fuel pressure ~ replaced the ECM relay ~ replaced the adjusted steering angle sensor Of course, it starts right up at the shop so they can't duplicate the problem.
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OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
See the video : [URL] ....
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There have been two instances where I have shut the car off and then it is dead when I try to restart. Not even any clicking. After it sits, it may start again. We replaced the battery, but the car wouldn't start again. Same symptoms... No clicking, or anything like that. Nissan dealer says the battery is fine and if it happens again, replace the battery because maybe it's faulty.
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I have a 1995 Nissan Altima GXE (2.4l) that has been driving me nuts. After the engine warms up, it blows oil smoke out the exhaust pipe whenever I start from a complete stop. I can be stopped for 30 seconds or three minutes, it doesn’t matter, it will have the same amount of oil smoke cloud. The engine does not smoke when first started up when either hot or cold (so no bad valve guides?). The engine does not smoke under hard excelleration (so good piston rings?). I’ve replaced the PCV and hose. The old PCV was really cakes up. There was a CEL code for the EGR valve. I’ve cleaned the EGR valve and replaced the EGR solenoid. There was also massive oil consumption. After only 450 miles, there was hardly and oil showing on the dipstick. I’m using 5/30 convention oil. The engine idles pretty good, and has plenty of power. The pressure test showed good compression on all cylinders (130, 120, 132, 129). I really want to make this go away! How to stop the oil smoke? It’s embarrassing. What should I do next?
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1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
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So my Nissan emits a loud (way louder than normal) "vroom" when I start it up and then idles back. Also, sometimes the tach needle jumps high and then falls, sometimes almost seems like the car might turn off. I have a knock sensor code on and nothing else. I was due for state inspection and the guy told me that my exhaust was warped and said that it was too loud and I will fail the inspection (I think he meant on the noise level as he did not do any diagnostics.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima that has a hard time starting but runs fine once started. It is very difficult in the winter when the temp is below 25 degrees. Sometimes it take me 5 to 6 tries to get it started. I have had the vehicle checked by two mechanics and recently had the battery replaced. The mechanics said the car looks fine. Could this be a fuel injector problem or moisture in the fuel system?
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I have a 2006 Nissan Altima with 142K miles. It is not starting right away. It coughs/sputters anywhere from 3 seconds to 10 seconds before turning over and starting. What the issue is?
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I have a 2006 Nissan Sentra 1.8l. I had a bad tensioner and old belts. I replaced both belts with the Dayco polyribbed belts and put on a new tensioner pulley. All went well and engine noise is gone; however, when starting the engine I get a squeak in one of the belts. I've tightened each belt a bit more several times. I still get one short squeak every time I start the car. I loosened one belt so I could spin the waterpump by hand. It felt and sounded fine. Do I have a problem here or are these Dayco belts prone to this? The old belts were gator belts. I suppose I could swap them back and see if squeak disappears.
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