Subaru - Forester :: 2000 Started Shaking At Higher Speeds


Aug 16, 2012

My 2000 Forester recently started shaking while driving at highway speeds or while under engine load (hills, accelerating, etc). My first thought was that it was a problem with the alignment so I took it to my local tire shop. The car has 164K on it and has been without a Subaru specific mechanic since my last guy got fired a year ago, though I am trying to get an appointment with the only other Subaru mechanic in the area, outside of the dealership.

The tire shop found an issue with cupped tires (naturally they'd want to sell me tires) and told me that my passenger side rear CV joint was bad and they'd have to replace the axle. Since this sounded credible for the symptoms it was showing and they found me an axle, I told them to go ahead and replace it.

When I got it back the first time, I didn't see any great improvement in the shaking. I also noticed that they'd forgotten to put the bolt back into the bottom of my shock absorber. o_O When I brought it back to them, they fixed the missing bolt and agreed to keep it for a week to troubleshoot where else the shaking might be coming from. In the process, they replaced spark plugs and wires (which it probably needed anyway) and did an oil change, but the shaking is still there after all their tinkering. They suggested the problem may be in the timing and that I should have that checked out.

I don't think they're right about that. The vibration feels (to me) even more like a CV joint problem now than it did before. It shakes more violently and at slower speeds the longer it runs so by the time I get to work (40+ miles) it's almost constant. It stops shaking when you pop it into neutral and let it coast suggesting it's not timing or alignment - and making me think even more that it's something to do with the drive train.

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I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.0 turbo engine and just under 60,000 miles. Recently, I began noticing that at higher speeds (60+ mph), the whole car would periodically shake rather violently.

I took it to the dealership, where they informed me that I have:

1) three bent wheels
2) both CV joints loose
3) right inner tie rod wear/damage
4) something wrong with a "coupler" that I did not fully understand

Two questions: First, other than the occasional pothole, I haven't had any collisions with this vehicle. For a 60K mileage car, is this normal?? I've never had such extensive damage with a previous car.

Does that seem right given the problems listed? It is admittedly way more damage than I could've imagined.

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Also, another important question: If I had the transmission fluid replaced, would it be possible that they may have cleaned out any metal shavings, and when they check 100 miles later, there wouldn't be any? I'm worried that I'm going to get screwed because they eliminated any metal shavings and when they go to look again none will be there because there hasn't been enough mileage put on the car to make them appear again. I do not know enough about cars to know if this is even a possibility. They refuse to honor the warranty until they go through a checklist of possible repairs, and I'm nervous that list will run out when I hit 61,000 miles and warranty runs out.

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I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!

But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.

I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..

Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...

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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.

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Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?

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I just realized that I left out a critical piece of information as I was reading the posts. The shimmy is only under braking and is more pronounced under extra load such as down hill.

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I still get the high/low range ICP codes, P1280, P1281. First night the IPR was changed I got it up to 90mph and thought it was all solved but got a little shake right at the top and I let off the gas. Next day back to square one and has seemed to get progressively worse, almost wasn't able to make it up a hill by my house not even going 20mph, but it's like intermittent. I have a scan tool, here is at idle and at around 60mph ....

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Knocking In Suspension At Higher Speeds

But i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?

The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.

I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.

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