Strong Gas Odor from under the Hood. Mechanic found no leaks. Contacted Subaru only reply I got was "how many miles are on the Car" and take it to a Subaru Dealer. Odor is intermittently.
View 5 RepliesOK so I have a 2010 6.4 fully deleted. I have noticed that after driving my truck and parking it there is a strong coolant odor but no steam or visible leaks. the truck runs as good as ever and I can't seem to find the source.
View 5 RepliesLately I have noticed an intermittent strong overheating odor coming from the rear passenger tire area of my 1999 Sonata. I was also beginning to notice the car vibrating or riding unevenly. I took it in to Les Schwab to have the brakes checked and was told they were fine with over 50% on all four brakes. I did have the front tires replaced as they were worn and wearing unevenly and was told this is what was more than likely causing the vibrating. That was a couple of weeks ago and I had not noticed any odor coming from the wheel well until yesterday the minute I opened my car door after driving home from work there was the same strong toxic smelling odor coming from the same rear passenger wheel well, but not from anywhere else. I have only noticed this smell after driving home from work and there is a fairly steep hill I go down not too far from my home. Is this a brake issue or something else?
View 5 RepliesFor the last month or so my car (2005 Subaru Outback LL Bean) has been producing a burning odor. It smells like air out of a latex balloon that has been burnt. I took the car to my mechanic but was unable to reproduce the smell. He asked if the car only produced the smell going uphill as it could be my coolant leaking. Since then I have noticed that the car does in fact produce the smell primarily, if not exclusively going uphill. But coolant should smell sweet not burnt?
View 12 Replies1998 subaru coolant has disappeared 2 times with highway driving last June and November but it exhibited no leaks visibly or under pressure test. Put fluorescent dye in. Found a hairline crack in neck of radiator under hose and replaced in december. End of february with local driving after siting for 5 days it overheated, sucked up reserve tank and needed a quart of coolant in the new radiator.No leaks under pressure test again and tested ok on turnpike. No smells oil ok. Doing tailpipe heat dye test to see if it's burning coolant and needs head gaskets.
View 9 RepliesI bought my outback a few months ago from a dealer/mechanic who had fixed the car after it was totaled. So it has a reconstructed title, but it was hit in the back, so all the engine parts were unaffected by the crash. Since I have had the car I have experienced intermittent loss of power steering ability. Sometimes it's nearly impossible to parallel park or turn a corner gracefully, and other times, within the same short trip, the steering will be completely fine and smooth. I have had the issue looked at about three times now by different mechanics. Each time they have either replaced or tightened the belt, which temporarily fixes the problem. But within a few weeks it always comes back. Is there something not keeping the belt tight, or could the issue actually be in the power steering pump?
View 3 RepliesMy outback started giving me intermittent extended crank starting problems on cold engine starts a few months ago. I brought it in first to repair shop and then dealership. Battery replaced, all systems checked out, computer update, camshaft sensor shim, and still I have the problem. What this could be?
View 19 RepliesHeard a funny intermittent rattle and my mechanic told me that my check engine light should be going on any time now as my cat converter is bad. The part is about a thousand bucks! Looked on line and see some aftermarket ones from walker and some other retailers. My car has 103K miles on it,.
View 17 RepliesThe car in question is a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback. Just had the heads resurfaced and new gaskets, and timing belt. Runs great. Acceleration is good, stays cool. However, it has developed an intermittent knock/tapping. it sounds like its coming from the top end of motor. I added Marvel Mystery and the noise left for about a week but came back. Is this the beginning of the end? Or could it be a small problem involving the lifters/followers/valves?
View 9 RepliesMy 2004 Outback now has 120K, has always been maintained and repaired at the dealership (except tires and battery), and has always run great! I've had the plastick-y parts replaced over the last few years including head gaskets when one cracked and made smoke. In July I got a jump from a AAA tow truck, who said my battery tested as needing replacement.
In September my check engine light went on, and the dealer found the code PO420-catalyst system efficiency. They didn't seem to look any further into causes. The cat converter replacement was to cost $2521. They reportedly tested the battery as OK as part of their routine checkup. I declined the new cat converter till learning more. Meanwhile, my check engine light seemed to cycle on, then off, then on, then off . . . every several days.
In December I had the battery checked at Sears, who replaced it under warranty. So I guess it wasn't okay after all. After that my check engine light stayed off for somewhat longer than usual, then back on for most of January. I was just about to give in and get the repair done when it cycled off briefly a few days ago.
I've lost trust in the dealership because of their battery check which differed from others before and after theirs; and for their lack of specific diagnostics. The light is back on and I don't know what to do next.
Car: 02 Passat GLX V6 4motion
Mileage: 99k
Just recently bought this car (3 months ago) and I have had lots of issue with it already. I topped off the tank that same week and it started to leak gas right under the gas tank (driver side in front of the rear wheel).
No engine light came on. It leaked for couple of days for about an hour after I park the car then it would stop until I drive again. It did that for couple of days until the gas level went down to 2/3 then it stopped. Since then I stopped topping it off and it hasn't leaked.
However I always smell gas even when its not leaking. When I go around the car the odor comes from right in front of the rear wheel (driver side).
Prior History: This car was rear ended before and fixed up by the prior owner. The seller told me that he had recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator that week.
I took it to the mechanic and had them do a smoke test. They couldn't pin point the leak so they recommended replacing the entire fuel tank for $1800. I walked away and thought I would just keep the fuel level low and keep driving. However the gas smell really bothers me because the car is parked in the garage and the gas odor builds up to unbearable condition.
What could cause this issue? Does this has anything to do with fuel pressure regulator that was replaced? Anything to do with fuel pump because of the rear end accident or loose seal in that area? Do you think it is necessary to replace the whole tank for this?
I have leased a new Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. We have noticed a very strong odor in the trunk. We have removed all the trunk mats and spare tire insulation trying to air them out and the smell still persists. It smells like something is burning or has burnt near the wheel wells or the back fold down seats. How to get rid of it?
View 5 RepliesI have a rernote starter installed on my '07 SF 3.3. It will leave the engine running for 18 minutes before shutting off. If I get into the vehicle after it has been running for over 10 minutes or so, there is a strong odor of gas inside.
Where I might look for where it is coming from? If I remember to leave the vehicle in "recirculate" mode the night before, the odor is less, but my wife and I drive it equally so often the recirlcualte button will not be pressed.
Not sure if there is a leak somewhere (no other signs of a leak or gas odor while driving), or if this is "normal"...
Over the last 2 days here in NJ were its been cold. When starting the Treg and get out of the car I smell a strong odor of gas from the Exhaust. This normal? Haven't had this smell before. Seems like it drives normal. Don't get to drive it everyday anymore. Only on weekends as my wife take the Treg to work now.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS with about 68k. Starter her up this am and smelled a very strong odor of gasoline in the cabin. I check my garage floor and didn't see any leaks. Drove it for a few minutes and the smell went away. What might be causing this?
View 1 RepliesI remember reading very recently about someone who found a fix to the strong fuel odor on cold starts. I can't seem to find it anywhere. I think it mentioned something about a bad ignition coil or something.
View 4 RepliesI have a problem that I cannot pinpoint. For at least 2 months now, I have noticed a strong odor almost like a diesel coming from the exhaust. I replaced the plugs, wires, air filter and cleaned out the throttle body but it remains. No check engine light and runs smooth. Also, noticed a significant loss of coolant from the overflow bottle. Filling it every 3 days. Took it out to inspect for holes or cracks and nothing. Not sure if all these are related. Every oil change the used oil smells like fuel. I was thinking rings going bad but don't think that would solve the coolant loss which is unseen. Everything under the hood is dry.
View 5 RepliesI changed the gas cap on my car. This did not change a thing. I took to i believe reliable mechanic (has worked on car several times) and was told it is bad leak from the "sending" (I think) tube. I think it is the plastic? thing that sends fuel to the fuel pump. This is cracked.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Prius and it has developed a very strong mold smell/odor. It is strongest when the car has been sitting with the windows up. I have tried many of the tips in the forum regarding not using the recirc mode. I've clean the car inside and out, mats, carpeting, every compartment.
I have talked to the dealer parts counter and replaced the cabin air filter with the carbon filter and used the 2 can treatment that Toyota sells (one in the a/c drain x2 and the other in the air intake.). No joy.
I took it to the service department they did the same thing - again, no joy.
They have asked me to bring it back for, and I quote, "exploratory surgery." I asked if this the covered under the Toyota Certified Warranty. He could not confirm that it would be covered.
I have a 2014 TDI with 86,000 miles on it. Several weeks ago I had the heater core changed and since then the car has ran hot twice when what appears to be a regen. The heat has stopped working again. When it is running hot, I can smell a strong odor of ammonia. It does not run hot all the time. Last time it ran hot, I felt the radiator and it was not hot all over. The passenger side hose was not hot and the top of the radiator was not hot. I have taken it to the dealership several times.
At first they said that they thought that the thermostat needed changing. I declined and said that it would run hot all the time with a bad thermostat. The last time I brought it to the dealer - I stated that I think the radiator is clogged. Now they are indicating that they want to change the radiator, thermostat, heater core (again), and flush the system. The system has been pressure tested and no leaks have been found. The tech indicated that it ran hot while in the shop with the A/C on and it boiled over.
Has encountered a strong odor of washer fluid when using it on your windows. I was driving to work this morning through a snow storm and needed to use my washer fluid for the first time. As soon as I turned it on the entire cabin was filled with that smell. Could this be a leak?I thought it was all confined within the engine compartment so not sure why I smell it immediately upon using.
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