Subaru - Starting - Impreza :: 1995 - Turns Over Fine But Never Fully Starts Until Cools Off?
Apr 4, 2011
I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza that I have been nursing along for the past 14 years. Recently, if I drive for a decent length of time (~10 miles), turn the car off to go into a store, and then try to start it up again, it won't start. It turns over fine, but never fully starts. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes, it will start back up again. The temperature gauge reads normal--between hot and cold. Is there another temperature sensor that might be malfunctioning, telling the car that the engine is too hot to start? Where/what is this called?
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Subaru Impreza 2004 2.5 TS170,000 km
For a couple of months now and every few days, my car turns over nicely but chokes. I can keep the engine running by pressing the gas pedal as lightly as possible without letting the engine stop or rev too high, and after about 15 seconds it stays on on its own. When it's running it runs very smoothly...no knocking or shuddering or poor idling at lights.
So there’s obviously a gas delivery problem at startup. I don’t know if I can but I would love to rule out the fuel pump since it's only at startup (fuel filter is new, battery is new, and sensors have been checked, even during a failure to start scenario) and it runs so well when driving. Also, it won’t start randomly, regardless of temperature, cold start or not, incline, etc. I read that a fuse can have intermittent problems but again it seems to me that it should be properly intermittent, not just at startup. Which leaves the relay and wires.
Now thinking about wiring, a few years ago I noticed I could no longer leave my highbeams on. I could hold the lever and make them stay on, but pushing the lever into the on position no longer works. Also, recently and only once, on a -26 C day, the air compressor was dead when I started the car. After stopping and starting for a half an hour I noticed that it had come back on. Does this sound like it could be connected? Where do I even start to diagnose this starting problem?
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2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i ... My vehicle struggles to start. Symptoms present at what seems random and the rest of the time it starts up no problem. I turn the key and the motor turns over a few times without starting then stops turning over yet still sounds as if the ignition and starter are still functioning, just with out success. No grinding or clicking, but the very audible sound of the car trying to start remains, but with out the cyclical turning of the motor. If I continue to keep the key turned for several seconds it sometimes will turn over again and start sluggishly but not always. I replaced the battery and it had no effect.
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I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza L and just about a month ago my left headlight hasn't been functioning right. When I have the switch on Lo-beam both lights are lit almost evenly but when I switch the hi-beams on the left headlight gets very, very dim and the right headlight goes to hi-beam... Also sometimes the hi-beams just don't work at all until I wiggle a wire up above the brake pedal.
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I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza. When I am turning my front end clicks and the faster I go the faster it clicks and then just kind of goes away, but the one I'm most concerned about, is that sometimes when I'm going about 50-60 mph my front wheels start shaking left and right really fast and it jerks to the left every time the wheels shake to the left, but shaking and pulling gets worse after I let off the gas. It sometimes goes away after I step on the gas but then returns when letting off the gas.
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My subaru pulls very hard to the right, so hard that I can not go any faster than second gear (It feels to un-safe) I hear a like metal on metal kind of noise, almost like a ding or a bell sound. It wobbles very bad also. It feels like my tire is about to fall off! I tried to wiggle or move the tires to see if they would move and they did not (Advise from a mechanically inclined friend) I was driving on a muddy road when it happened, and I bottomed out at least once. When you look under the car you can see exposed metal, it is dirty under their obviously and the metal that we saw was not dirty so maybe something slipped out of place or fell off? The bar that connects to the wheel has a rubber protectant thing against it or covering it and that is where the exposed metal was.
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1995 Subaru Impreza. Has died several times w/in last 3 months when slowed down to stop or park. Power dummy light comes on when it dies. Resumes back to normal by turning ignition off and back on again. Check oil/power steering fluid regularly. Added extra oil week ago, too much oil perhaps? Car has history of smelling like it's burning either oil/power steering fluid when operated at high RMPs (ie climbing hills/accelerating). Smoke sometimes comes from under hood. Automatic, doesn't shift down very quickly. I either go super slow to keep RPMs low, or punch it to try and get it to shift. Last night/today:loud/almost grinding noise from under hood, all dummy lights went on, then died, completely fuctionless. any speculations?
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So I'm driving along with everything fine till I pull into a neighbors driveway to drop off some stuff. As I pull in, the check engine light suddenly comes on and the cruise control light starts blinking. As I have a scangauge II always connected, I put the car in park and check the code. It comes up as P0000. I get on my Droid III and google it - all I see is "null code" so I clear the codes and everything is fine. I figure "that's odd, but whatever". I drive home (about 1000 feet) and park and shut the car off and go inside to mull this over.
I go back out to check out the scangauge again and it requires starting the car to read out the codes. The car won't start. The battery is fine, and in fact it does the "rurrr rurrr rurr" strongly for 10 times before I figure it's not starting. I wait about 30 seconds and try again - same thing. I wait about an hour or two and try again and it starts this time right away, but then stalls right away. Start again and manually give it some gas and it keeps idling weakly. I'm able to back out and drive a short distance and come back without a stall. I let it sit for the weekend (no shops open anyway) and start it monday morning with my AAA card out... and it starts fine and runs fine all day. I basically forget about it.
About a week and a half later, I'm driving along a country highway at 55 Mph, and the same thing happens. Check engine light, cruise control light blinking and the cruise actually cuts out so I'm losing speed suddenly. I run the scangauge again and same code. The car keeps running fine though, I'm able to drive it back (w/out cruise control) the 5 miles home. Nothing out of the ordinary.
I go inside and google this some more, and there's some posts about the Scangauge causing this - but I've been using it for about 4 years w/out this happening. That said, about 2 months ago, there was a recall, and they flashed the ECU with some update so maybe that changed something, but still - worked for months before this happened. I had to get to work etc so I just cleared the code again, and so far 3 days without a recurrence. Currently I'm thinking about waiting to see if it happens again and going to Autozone and have them read the code to see if it really is the Scangauge not reading the code right or whatever...
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I have a 1995 Subaru legacy wagon, 176K miles. The reverse went out about 10 months ago; all the other gears shift fine and it runs great. Do I have a bad transmission or could it possibly be some kind of switch or solenoid? I have searched the net for hours and keep coming up empty.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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I have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
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1995 Honda Civic appears battery is dead, takes 20 turns to start up, then has trouble with RPM's while driving. Even the clock and radio reset I thought the battery was so dead, but the car still starts up every time. And sometimes when I accelerate it has trouble keeping up and chokes a bit. Is this one problem or two? It seems electrical to me.
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Ok. I replace my alternator on my 1995 Subaru Legacy Ls. Everything went great. Last thing I did was to connect the positive cable on the battery. When I did it sparked alittle. Well when I got into the car to start it nothing. Turn the key nothing. The knob on the shifter won't go in to get out of park. Neighbor checked my battery said it was fine. But nothing will come on. Nothing.No lights. I had problems with my ignition before. Do you think my ignition went out? Honestly don't know what to think. Some one told me that these cars have a secondary security system. If it goes on you cannot move the knob on the shifter and when you turn the key on nothing?
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I recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
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I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 5spd, I bought it new about a year ago and every +- 2000 miles my low oil light comes on. The Subaru dealer is telling me this is normal. After happening 5 times in the past year I am getting fed up and believe there is something wrong with the engine. I Know many people with newer Subarus and none of them are having this issue with the oil light. When the light comes on and I check the oil I see that I am a full quart low, the dipstick comes out dry. The dealer has been insisting that this is consumption is normal. I finally called corporate last week and when they returned me call they told me that after contacting the dealer there was no evidence of low oil levels.
I attribute this to the fact that the dealer told me to top the oil off before driving, so of course the oil levels will appear fine when I bring the car in the next day. Regardless the woman from subaru corporate told me that consumption of a quart within 1200 miles is abnormal, however, she never said that it was normal for consumption rates of a quart per 2000 miles. So is this rate of consumption normal, and should I be concerned? There is no leaking oil that I can see, also where does the oil go in a closed system? I don't smell burning oil or see any smoke in the exhaust. I have begun carrying oil with me due to the frequency of this and am scared to drive it when the light comes on because I feel it will damage the engine.
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Gas light came on yesterday but when I went to fill the tank... Gas would not go in and the tank acted as though it was full, spitting the gas back out.
I propped the valve open for 15-20 minutes and when tried to fill again, it allowed me to pump gas. Is this a serious issue that I need to address immediately? What if I never let tank go below 1/4 full?
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,So my 98 subaru impreza acts rather funny for the first 5-10 minutes after start up. Basically what happens is I turn the ignition and it takes longer than usual to start up and when it does the car acts like its running on fumes. When I'm idling the car shakes like its struggling to get fuel in the engine and when I drive it it jerks along for the first 10 minutes or so when I have to accelerate. Usually after about 10 minutes of driving the problem goes away, but since I primarily drive it to work abut 15 minutes away, its like the majority of my commute. The problem usually happens more when i let the gas get below 3/4 of a tank so I try to keep it topped off.
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The check engine light on our Subaru keeps coming on. The first time, the computer showed that it was an issue with the gas cap. They reset the light and we were fine. The second time, apparently, they could not check if it was the gas cap b/c the tank was full. So, we had them just change out the cap. Well, now it has happened a third time.
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I have a 2004 Subaru WRX Wagon with 138,000 miles whose CEL light is on. I have had a private mechanic replace the plugs and wires and tune the car, light went out but came back on. He said the misfire is at 1,3. He swapped the coils and determined that was not the problem. Told us to take it to the dealer and check the codes. Brought it to a Subaru dealer and they ran the diagnostics and it came up Code P0301. Compression test and leakdown test were fine. They removed spark plug for cylinder 1 and inspected with camera. Found exhaust value darker than other but not sure that is the problem. They were unable to determine the cause of the check engine light. They claim the next step is to drop exhaust and inspect valve guides or remove heads to inspect valves. I have read many stories on line about how engines were pulled when in many cases it was not an engine problem at all. Car is running fine but does idle hard and will hiccup on highway.
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