Subaru - Xv-crosstrek :: 2014 Hybrid Engine - Acceleration Is Poor And Inconsistent
Aug 27, 2014
At the beginning of this year I purchased the 2014 XV Crosstrek Hybrid. I have been trying to love it for 7 months now, and am failing. The way the hybrid engine functions creates a very jolting, inconsistent, and frustrating driving experience:
The acceleration is poor and inconsistent ... it never seems to know what gear it should be in. So much so that there have been times I have felt unsafe moving into traffic (and I am not one to push a car or "jump out" into traffic; friends who have driven it also have the same experience).
The start/stop of the engine when it goes to/from electric creates a resounding shudder that shakes the entire car every time it happens (and it happens ALOT).
The engine is like a PC instead of a MAC ... it's always doing something and you never know what it's up to.
When you use the defrost or the A/C it makes all these matters that much worse.
I'm very disappointed that Subaru would put a car that functions like this on the market. I'm a long time fan of Subaru's (I still drive my 1992 Legacy wagon manual transmission, which, quite honestly, drives a whole lot better than this new hybrid). And I counted on Subaru when, after 22 years, I went looking for a new car. This is not a vehicle that Subaru should have on the road. I get so many people asking me about it because I got it in the Plasma green and it is beautiful. And I give them the honest truth about it's performance; I have NOT sold at least 5 cars for Subaru.
I looked at so many cars from so many other makers, and this was the only one I truly wanted. It seemed to have everything and I trusted that Subaru's engine would be fabulous as always. Make it run smoothly, accelerate well in a trustworthy manner, not have such a jolting engine experience. You've got it on all other counts with this car ... just not the engine, and all the other factors do not make up for poor engine performance.
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I was finally told today, after several bouts of no EV on my 2014 Crosstrek Hybrid, lasting,1 to 3 days, that running the front windshield defrost PROHIBITS the use of the fully electronic engine. I came to this conclusion serendipitous on my own, but was not offered this explanation until today.
What is the best method to try to contact other Crosstrek Hybrid owners to gauge the validity of the explanation I was given regarding the operation of my hybrid? I have already posted to the Subaru forum.
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2014 Subaru Crosstrek XV CPO purchased December 2015.
Last month I slid out on a heavy snow day (no snow tires, I know!) on a left turn and the front passenger wheel struck the curb forcefully enough for the wheel to be angled outwards about 15-20 degrees when steering wheel was straight. Lower control arm was wrecked, had it replaced and alignment done by the local subaru pro. He noted that the caster was now 0.5 degree off, which he noted to be "within specifications". He said it's not a big deal, but if I wanted it fixed, I could have the frame pulled at a frame shop to correct.
I'm just happy to be driving my rig again, but I notice a somewhat low-pitch, pulsating, vibration-like noise whenever I make a left turn at a certain angle. It seems to resonate when I hit a "sweet spot" of speed/turn.
I made a video : [URL] ....
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Our car's don't have as great acceleration performance when hot / after having been driven for 30+ minutes?
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Check engine light came on momentarily, car had poor acceleration. Light went out and ESC light came on. When the car was turned off and restarted, the ESC light went out.
I scanned the engine, no codes, either open, pending or historical.
Question, could the issues with the two lights be related? Or is there anything else I should check?
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I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
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I have a 04 f350 6.0 with about 195xxx miles on it. The other day my truck started acting up. It starts and idles without a problem and drives fine till the engine gets to operating temp once there I cannot accelerate quickly like getting onto the highway to get up to speed it just the motor just goes quiet and won't accelerate. It usually does this a little after 2000 rpm. I can let off the throttle and slowly get to speed as long as I don't go past 2000 rpm. No check engine light was not on scanned it and got p0611 for the ficm. I tested the ficm and it read 48v with key on. While truck was running I got 46.xx v then Started to climb to almost 48v. The truck was warm but not at operating temp where the problems starts(didn't have time to let it warm up all the way) could these symptoms be the ficm still? What else should I test?
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I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
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I recently purchased a 2011 Subaru Outback and I'm having difficulty seeing out the back window when I'm parallel parking or backing up. The rear window is up high and narrow. I use the side mirrors as much as I can, but feel disoriented when I can see the car behind me. I've checked out some camera systems online, but I haven't see great reviews for them. I also contacted Subaru to see if I could get one installed after market, as they only included their rear view mirror camera on the high end Limited edition that included the moon roof which I didn't want, but they can't install it after market.
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I was a proud owner of this 2013 F150 3.7L, when i bought it brand new, but now after 30000 miles, or after last oil change the engine is making an inconsistent tick sound when warm. The sound can be somewhat compared to parts of exhaust cooling down because it blends in with that sound pretty well. The sound might have been present before the oil change however I have not noticed any sounds until after the oil change was done.
The sound is an inconsistent but repetitive tick, I mean tick-5second break-double tick-3second break-tick-10second break. Sound is present only when warm at around 500rpm and is harder to notice if engine is revved to like 2000rpm, but by increasing engine speed the sound is also more intense and faster. No mods done to the truck, not driven hard. I did put premium gas couple times.
There is no sound after starting the engine in a situation where the truck was sitting in a driveway overnight, even by the time i get to work (5km highway and 5km city) driving it moderately it does not always make the sound by the time i get to work. So now i suspect three things.
1. I have been idling my car a lot and sometimes used the cheapest gas from some no name gas stations.
2. When oil gets warm it gets thin and then it is somehow causing this sound.
3. There is just something wrong with the engine.
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Is it possible bad spark plugs and wires affect poor acceleration and bad throttle response.I have no error codes and the engine is rebuilded.Idling sound good.Difficult to start engine first time(seconds after-easy to run the engine).
Tyre size 195/65/15 winter?
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I have just changed my clutch and machined my flywheel on my 1.5ltr 16v dohc 2000 lc accent. I used all the correct trans fluid and refilled and bled the clutch fluid. It takes of from lights like a new car but if you put your foot down around 40kph it revs out a bit and does so through all gears untill you reach a bit of speed. What is going on?
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i have a 1994 buick park avenue non supercharge. I replaced the harmonic balancer because it was split all the way around. ok then i start having low fuel pressure. it was at at 22psi so i got the fuel pump, strainer and filter replaced i also notice my cat was turning red. I also got the cat replaced and part of the new one is starting to turn red. I am experiencing poor acceleration ...my car shakes but shakes more when im in drive and foot on the brake..i can tell the difference in the acceleration from when i put the new cat on..it picked up a little bit but its not how its suppose to be. I also notice two of my coil packs have a slight crack across the top by the numbers....
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So I was given a 1999 f150 4.6. The transmission was supposedly either new or rebuilt. (I'm going with rebuilt) Driving it for the first time today, I noticed it had very little poor acceleration. When I would get on the gas (to the floor) the rpms would shoot up (3-3.5) but the truck didn't accelerate accordingly. It feels like the power it's getting to the wheels. Driving at highway speed trying to maintain a speed at over 70 the truck wanted to stay at 2500 rpms but if I let off the gas just a touch it would shift up (into overdrive I think) and level out at just below 2000 rpms, but if I accelerated even just barely, it would down shift and go back to 2500. I've also noticed the truck runs 5 mph faster than it reads with stock sized tires. I've check the tans fluid and it is bright red in color and at the appropriate level. I crawled under the truck and noticed the trasfer case mount was wet with fluid (not dripping) and the rear output shaft of the transfer case was also wet. Could this be a transfer case problem?
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2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
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In cold weather at low rpm's, my truck has poor acceleration until the rpm's increase and it takes off. I replaced spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor.
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2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
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2008 Passat 2.0T auto, started occasionally shifting with a loud bang into and out of park, and from forward into reverse and reverse into forward. No MIL, pending transmission communications error code. Would accelerate very poorly up until about 30mph and then accelerate normally. Shutting the car off and then restarting would usually clear up the symptoms. Started happening about once a week over a 3 week period, and then started happening about about every other day. With it happening more often, had an opportunity to experiment a little, and by shifting into sport mode (which causes the MFD to display the gear that the transmission is in) noticed that the car was not shifting into 1st to 3rd gear, but starting off in 4th. With that and the rough shifts in and out of park, I thought that it was probably transmission related,
With a tranny being $$$$ and the battery being 4 years old, and relatively cheap to replace, I decided to play the long shot and see if a possibly weak battery was causing an electrical problem in the transmission. The battery checked out OK at a couple of places, but decided to give it a shot and replace it anyway.
Installed the new battery (Bosch from Pep Boys $109) and had every warning light on the dash go on with the first restart, along with a return of the harsh shift out of park problem. Shut the car off, turned it back on, drove five miles, all the warning lights went out, and no return of the transmission problem after 5+ months and 10K miles.
Just a heads up - if your battery is 4+ years old, and you are getting any odd problems that could in any way possibly be related to the electrical system - which includes just about every system on our cars - consider going for a new battery. Worked for me.
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After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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A while ago I had a '99 Ranger. Long bed, regular cab, 2wd, 5-speed, 2.3. I had really poor acceleration. I was used to Toyota pickups with the 2.4 22RE, and the Ranger was considerably slower to come to highway speeds.
So, I took it to two different dealers, and they told me "that's just the way they are." I guess I believed them and sold the truck. Now, I am kind of thinking about another Ranger. Do people here think the '99 2.3 has an acceleration problem? Are there certain years to avoid the I4 in a Ranger?
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I have a 2012 f150 stx 5.0 and I drive mostly city with a few highway miles. Why get this bad of gas mileage?
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