Suspension - Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2005 - Wheel Wobble While Braking?
Feb 24, 2014
My car has almost 80k on it. It is a 2005 VW Jetta 1.8T GLI. Been a great reliable car but I've been having a lot of trouble with the front end suspension. I get a horrible wobble in the front end. Translates into the steering wheel and feels like the wheels are wobbling very quickly only under braking. It is much heavier under heavy braking, but still exists even under light braking. I've replace my tie rods after finding a little play in them, checked my CV joints and axles and they looked good. Balljoints seem ok. Struts and strut mounts were replaced and the car has brand new tires that were balanced and aligned and rotated. When I replaced the tie rod, it went away temporarily but is back worse than ever. I'm getting really frustrated with this and the car feels dangerous to drive.
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I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
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I have a 1993 f150. Problem is that the steering wheel can wobble back and forth about a half inch or so. I took the wheel off and it looks like there is a lock ring holding everything in place. I just wondered if there was a solution to this to fix it
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I have an '05 Honda Odyssey, that has a wobble in the steering wheel, when I am going more than 60 mph. It has 87K miles on it. Tires seem smooth. Below 40mph it is not there or un-noticable. There is no pulling left or right, it does not seem to get worse if I go from 60 to 80.
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I bought this 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 68 000 kilometers, and it had some nasty steering wheel wobble at about 80km/h and what felt like right rear brake issues. We got 4 awesome tires put on and balanced and that took care of most of the wobble/shaking, and took care of most of the wobble in the right rear wheel. The other day we pulled the rear wheels to do the brakes (pads and rotors), but the rotors we got didn't come with the holes for the retaining screws but one of the guys at auto value said it would be fine, and if not, then take them back.
We put those rotors on and then bolted the wheels back on and i didn't even get down my driveway since the rotor in the right rear wheel felt like it was fumbling around in there. jacked the car up and there was play in both rear rotors but much more so in the right rear one. the rims that came with the car are 15" honda rims with a 4 bolt pattern so could that be the issue that these rims don't bolt up properly over the hubs? i thought that 4 bolt rims for honda, kia, hyundai, and others had the same bolt pattern? am i missing something here? or should i just find new rotors with the retaining holes?
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My 2005 Honda Civic just made it through a blizzard (outside the whole time). This morning I started driving it, and whenever I got above 45 mph the steering wheel started vibrating / whobbling very badly. My car seat was also vibrating. I poured hot water over the rims when I got home and that did not seem to work. Should I take it to a car wash? Is my car safe to drive?
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My 03 Jetta TDI wagon, with 210,000 miles, had a grinding sound about 10% of the time when I braked, BUT ONLY AT UNDER 5 mph...that is the last couple of seconds before completely stopping. The car braked fine, but the periodic grinding worried me. Two weeks ago, my mechanic couldn't reproduce it; today, however, we did and he identified it as the ABS (and I remembered that sound from the couple of times the ABS has kicked in during winter driving. But my question was safety, and my mechanic says the car brakes fine...he has checked them all around and driven with me...and the fault is the ABS system and not the brakes themselves. Need to verify this? The car runs fine (I am the original owner, and for the first 7 or 8 years had it solely dealer maintained) and I plan a road trip this summer, but I need a little more comfort that the ABS acting up won't result in a more serious problem.
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I have a 2001 vw Jetta with a manual transmission (just over 155,000 miles). My first set of front brakes lasted to about 135,000. After they were replaced a shimmy started to appear when braking a few thousand miles in. At about 8,000 miles the shimmy became so bad that I brought the car back to the dealer. They said the rotors were warped. The pads and rotors were replaced again and in about 5,000 miles same thing. The pads and rotors were replaced again at no charge and it is now about 5,000 miles later and the same thing is happening again.
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I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
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My 2001 Jetta 2.0L steering wheel vibrates at about 60+ mph and when I turn the steering wheel to the right into a turn, the vibration intensifies. I've changed and rotated my tires, but to no avail, the problem persists. I have yet to take this problem to a mechanic until I've found out what the issue actually is, as I do not want to get jerked around. I've looked around on various VW blogs, and from what I can gather, the CV joint needs to be replaced/repaired.
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I've been having several issues with my 06 Jetta. First, it began by the car dying out of battery, and than i figured out that during the night the break lightswitch would turn on. I would be able to turn them off by getting in and pressing the breaks but they turn on a while after. Now, today I purchased a stoplight switch to replace the old one however, when I recharged my battery before installing the piece the car died a few minutes later, but when the car was off there was a strange clicking sound under the steering wheel it kept clicking for about 10 minutes before it finally stopped. What could be a possible issue or issues that are going on?
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2005 VW Jetta: The brake indicator light came on in the dashboard. I took the car to the dealer, and they replaced the front brake pads. Indicator light is now off, but I drove away with a new problem: The pedal fades as it comes to a stop. I have to push almost to the floor to stay still. Sometimes the car drifts forward if I'm not consciously pushing down harder than usual on the pedal. The dealer took the car back for a few days, replaced the master cylinder, bled the lines and did not charge me. But the problem is still there. What went wrong?
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Caller had a problem with his car wobbling or vibrating while he was braking. The conclusion was that the rotors were warped. A quick google search would confirm that this is the most probable source of the wobble, but I'm not sure if it is correct for my problem:
I drive a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX. For quite a while not the steering and what feels like the whole car wobbles or vibrates when I brake. This is imperceptible at speeds under around 45 mph, but at high speeds it is VERY noticeable. It seems especially bad if I am going around 70 mph and lightly applying the brakes. The wobble does not happen unless the breaks are applied. So, warped rotors right? So I decided to check them and see if they are warped. I took both wheels, calipers, and rotors off my car and inspected the rotors.
My initial impression is that they looked as good as when I bought them. Of course an eye-ball diagnosis would not sufficiently answer my question so what I did was compare one rotor to the other. I put them together rotor on rotor to see if I could find any variation in shape. I figured that if one rotor was flat, while the other was warped, it would be noticeable. If both were warped, than the difference should be exaggerated. I did this multiple times to make sure I wasn't missing any warp or distortion. So as far as I can tell, they aren't warped. Another thing that I noticed, however was the brake pads. They were in good shape for the most part, but the corners/ends seems to be worn of at an angle about a quarter inch from the edge. I reassembled everything and when I drove the car, the wobble was gone. Now after about 15 minutes, the wobble returned.
Here are my Questions: Is my method of figuring out whether the rotor is warped reasonable? am i missing something?Why would the edges of the brake pads be worn down that drastically?Could the wobble come from something else? Struts? wheel bearings? bent wheel? If so, how can I diagnose/test which one it is?
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My 05 Jetta TDI is intermittently making a rubbing/grinding noise. Not in stop and go traffic but when I come to a stop at a stop sign, but only just before I come to a complete stop, not as soon as I hit the brakes. The shop that put the brakes on (about 18000 miles ago) looked at pads, rotors and pedal but said it's all fine. Could it be the booster, abs, or something else completely?
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Background: 2003 jetta; just changed rotors and pads on rear wheels a month ago, they are disc brakes
So the other day I was driving in a school zone at about 20 mph when I heard a VERY loud sound, like I'm dragging metal. i might also describe it as two rusty metal plates being rubbed against each other, but really really loud.
The noise is related to speed, it sounds cyclical and speeds up as the wheel turns faster. It occurs when I am NOT braking.
I parked the car and came back to it a few days later move it and the sound disappeared for the first 100 feet and then came back.
We did 2 things - we changed the caliper, and we also noticed that a caliper bolt was missing. I am pretty sure the noise was coming from that missing bolt - i think the caliper became dislodged and was making contact with the rotor. The caliper also seemed to be dragging a little bit so we went ahead and changed it too.
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Whenever I brake hard the steering wheel jerks to the right and the car follows. And it'll stay to the right until I got about third gear or if I shake the wheel back and forth. Not sure what it is. What could cause this? 01 jetta wolfsburg.....
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I have been getting a little wobble at high speeds(80MPH) when i brake the car. I am guessing those are the front disk brakes (had similar experience with my old 2002 Galant which i fixed with the brakes). My Sonata has 67,000 miles. Is it ok if i replace just the pads ?
2011 2.4L Hyundai Sonata SE
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Mk4 2005 TDI 190,00 KM
Background: Purchased this car couple months ago. Did a bunch of maintenance, including rear pads/rotors, fronts still good. Also decide to bleed the system while I had the car on jacks. Followed Bentley procedure as I have previously, using a pressure bleeder making sure to stay at 12 psi and kept the reservoir topped up at all times. First I did the clutch slave, brakes and last I did VAG com procedure to bleed the ABS unit. Upon completion pedal felt good and I took it for drive ..
Brakes worked fine under normal braking force but when the car was slowing down and coasting to a stop with my foot on the brake (light pressure) the ABS engaged briefly(speed around 10-15km /h) right before the car came to a stop. Assumed maybe air in the system so re-bleed the ABS pump again .. Nothing same ABS kicks in right before stopping .. Cleaned all speed sensors and rings .. Nothing, still happening.
Recap:
-ABS does not engage under regular braking force, brakes work fine.
-ABS engages under light braking pressure right before complete stop. (ie parking car or pulling into a drive way)
So my question is, is it possible an ABS sensor out of the 4 is causing this? How about the brake switch? I know that on older VWs used to be 2 pin but this one is 4. Is it possible there is ABS pump problem? Air still in the system? Master cylinder?
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OK, a couple of days ago I hit a good size bump and got the dreaded death wobble. I stopped to check the lug nuts and none were loose... jacked up one side at a time, tried shaking the tires to see if anything was loose and to my surprise on the drivers side I could move the tire back and forth (like turning the steering wheel, not around) so I figured something had broken right as I stopped. Is it supposed to do that?? I know it`s not on older vehicles.
Anyway I figured I was stranded so I thought what the heck, I`m gonna see if it will turn with the steering wheel. Well when I did... with drivers side still off the ground it gets the death wobble, oh it was running when I did it. I jacked it back down and it stopped so then I tried turning the steering wheel to see if it would turn and both tires turned as they should. I was scared to try it but I drove on home about 4 miles slowly.
My brother has an older Saturn and his wife was driving it and from the way he described it, it got the death wobble. Someone told him it was the serpentine belt. He changed it and it didn't happen anymore. Does it sound possible that the belt could be my problem. BTW, the truck is a 99 ranger 4x4 with no lift or anything.
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I'm having the same issue that I had on my previous Mkv car. Around 55-80mph the steering wheel will wobble back and forth at about a quarter of an inch very quickly. It's an identical shake to my last Mkv. I had the wheels balanced and checked for bends and the car aligned. Didn't work. Went to various shops spent too much on balancing. One shop showed me that one of my tires was slightly out of round. So I bought 4 new tires and had them road forced shop said everything was great. Hopped on the freeway and the same wobble was still there. Car is at 52k miles and I've been battling this problem for about 5k miles now.
I've had the entire car checked. One tech told me that the axels could have gone bad so it is going in under warranty to get new axels on Tuesday, then going back in for an alignment. My last Mkv had the same issue around the same mileage and I spent so much on trying to figure it out I eventually got sick of it and traded it in on this GTI. My girl friend just bought an 09 Jetta and it seems to be having early signs of the same vibration. I'm starting to think its an issue with the generation. My mk3 with 200k miles drives smoother than this thing. I love the car but me driving on the freeway so often really kills the enjoyment.
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So I have been running squared 12.5mm spacers with correct length lugs. I recently traded with a friend in the front from my current 10mm's, up to the 12.5mm's and back down to my 10mm. I noticed at speed that I was getting a pretty steady vibration at 80mph. I think it has something to do with me not tightening my lugs all of the way down, buddy thinks they're backing themselves out.
I pulled them today in the rain to just stock lug bolts and everything feels 100% better. I want to return to my spacers that I have never had issue with before but I'm worried about losing a wheel and dying at high speed. Problem with loose lugs causing vibration even though the first and second time I check that they felt pretty tight?? Or should I just snug em really good to see when I put them back on...
Note they are ecs tuning 10mm hubcentric with good matching lugs.
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