Toyota - Avalon :: 1997 - Cranks But Won't Start Intermittently
Oct 30, 2011
For the last two years we have been having this problem off and on. The car typically will not start in the morning but 8 hours later it will start right up with no hesitation. The engine always cranks but it will not start. Every time we have the vehicle towed to a mechanic's shop either the car starts as soon as the towing company drops off the car or first thing in the morning when they go to start looking at it. When the vehicle does start there is absolutely no hesitation and no decrease in the performance. The vehicle has never stalled on me, and I have tried pumping the gas and putting the vehicle in neutral but have been unsuccessful in figuring out this problem. The check engine light does not come on and there aren't any codes saved in the memory.
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I have a 2002 avalon XLS. In the morning the car cranks but wont start unless I press the gas pedal. After that everything was fine. But recently the problem is getting worse. The car became harder to start although it will start eventually. I have changed the Mass air flow sensor, but did not solve the problem.
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I've seen This Problem discussed about GMC models but not Toyota Avalon. Why does my '97 Avalon ABS & Track Off dash warning lights Continually flash on occasion? Also, on occasion while making a turn, my car just shuts off! So far, it's started right up without stranding me.
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Several months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
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My rear window sunscreen only worked intermittently for a while, then quit totally. Suddenly, on it's own, it went up and locked in place and will not retract under any circumstances, i.e. switch inoperable; no effect when moving gear selector from Park to Reverse (should retract). Most annoying is the greatly decreased visibility especially at night as the rear window is also tinted, and it also buzzes loudly for 20 seconds when the vehicle is put into Reverse from Park.One Avalon user suggested to pull the 10A fuse or pay about $700. to repair the sunshade unit.
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I have a 2001 F150 XL, 2WD, 4.2L, Auto at work. It will intermittently crank but not start, also, my scan tool will sometimes not connect to the truck. The only code I ever get is 1 about not being able to connect to self diagnostics. I have narrowed it down to the PCM relay in the underhood power distribution module not turning on because it SOMETIMES only sees a 2 volt turn on signal instead of 12 volts. I have replaced the ignition switch on the steering column- initially I thought that took care of it.
But as I was about to put the meter away it did it again. If I remove and reinstall the diode that is in the PDM, sometimes more than once, I can get it to turn on. Are these diodes available from any one besides Ford? The wiring diagram in my Haynes manual is very generic and does not show the circuit from the ignition switch to the fuse box. Where can I find a GOOD and complete wiring diagram for free on the net so I can print it out and take it with me to work?
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The interior light fixture for the back seat buzzes intermittently. It only happens when the radio is on. Is this something that can be repaired easily?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with about 222,000 mikes on it. It runs extremely smoothly, but I've had problem after problem with startup. My clutch sensor was loose for a while, replaced my starter, replaced the ignition coil, everything that could stop the thing from starting up has happened. Finally for the last couple weeks, the car has had these spells where it will crank forever and not start, like it did when I replaced the coil (I did that again just in case, not the problem). These spells last varying mounts of time.
A few times it's started up in minutes, and two times now it's been out for at least a day. I've checked everything and it seems to not be getting spark when it's not starting. I'd really like any insight to this. I'm considering changing my crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor, but I can't even find those on my engine. What could be causing this? I really need a car that will start up and is reliable. It should be noted that the car USUALLY starts fine. This only happens about once every 5 or 6 days.
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I have an issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 PSD. Intermittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing sound coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removing the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesn't start. When it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now.
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The brake lights come on in the rear after i park the car. it appears the brake pedal is not springing back for enough to disengage the brake lights. It does not do this all the time, but seems to have start doing this at night when it gets colder. I can look outside and see my brake lights on, then go off, then come back on. It has made the battery go dead twice in the last week. is this a easy fix or something more complicated. this has nothing to do with parking brake, i normally do engage parking brake since i park on a flat surface road in front of my home.
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My friend's 2001 toyota RAV 4 battery went totaly flat and was taken to an electrician, he changed the battery but the car won't start, it cranks very as normal but no start, the horn blows quit strongly and the Battery is a new one (BOSCH) not rebulit, and the security light blinks. The thing is that the car started well before the battery went flat, so I am very sure it is not the starter or the ignition switch, that security indicator was not blinking before the battery change.
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A couple months back my avalon started refusing to start, lights would come on with the key, but when i turned it, nothing but a click. after a few tries it would eventually start and run, usually for the day without issue again. After a while it got worse, and I had the battery tested. It was dead. So i replaced it. The car would still click the first couple times but start more readily then it had previously. Fast forward 2 weeks. I go to start my car, it does its clicking thing, then nothing. The whole car just dies. no lights, no clock, nothing. I gave it a minute and it came back on with dimmed lights and the antitheft system (which goes off if the battery is disconnected) goes off.
since then, i have successfully started the car 2x, but after each shut off, the clicking and no start issue returns. The battery cables are free of corrosion and its a brand new battery. I have seen issues with the starters and alternators on these cars on forums before, however with mine intermittently working, its slightly different. at least to my limited mechanical knowledge.
I have seen starter rebuild kits for fairly cheap online and alternator replacement options that look to be fairly easy with the tools that i have access to.
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I had several incidents where the car would not start & the battery was dead after the car sat a few days. After my shop checked & could not find a specific cause we ended in replacing the the battery & the clamps that held it. The car was fine for a month and then it went dead again after being left unused for 4 days. I wondered if my shop had the proper equipment to find problem. The vehicle has 175,000 miles on it.
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My '78 Corolla SR5 with 2TC engine, starts sometimes, and sometimes not. If she has rested in the carport for a few days, she cranks right over and goes like blazes. After a twenty-mile run, if I shut her off, she won't start again. Not a sound not a click nothing. But if I leave her alone for a couple days, she cranks right over. I need to take the old girl through emissions pretty soon. I don't want her to go into a coma in the emissions bay. Her mechanics can find nothing wrong.
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I have a 1996 Toyota corolla. it has been working fine until recently. I had problem starting the car intermittently. When I turned the key, it sounds like it cranks but the car would not start. If I tried it again after a minute or two, it would start again. It happens twice to me already so far. It has been around 4000 miles since my last oil change. And my engine oil has been leaking slowly for years (probably due to bad gasket) and I checked regularly and made sure the Engine oil is filled up to Full level. I haven't brought it to a mechanics yet but I would like to know what could be the issue.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon with 185000 miles. I went to start it this morning. It acted like it was going to start easily as usual.Then it acted like the electrical system went out. There were a few clicks when trying to start and then nothing.No electrical power at all. In what I guess was less than 30 seconds the electric power came back and I was able to start the car.The battery is new.I know the power was totally interrupted because I lost my presets on the radio station and the dash lights were off.I am thinking that something shorted out and then it reset. Can that happen?I very gingerly use the ignition switch now when starting the car. I turn it on, then only twist very gently.I am a little afraid that it is going to die on me again.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon with 125K that has a new battery, new battery terminals, and new cables. However, at random times it will not start when you turn the key. You turn the key...all the lights come on but nothing. It does not turn over, make any noises nothing. If you continually turn key off/on it starts most of the time. On the occasion it does not start after a few off/on turns it jump starts easily. This occurs about 2-3 times a week. What could be happening? Could it have anything to do with the security system?
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I'm trying to diagnose a no start issue on my son's 1997 F150 4.6L W code motor. It quit on him while driving and we haven't been able to get it re-started since. We immediately assumed the fuel pump was bad as we were not getting any fuel pressure and we cannot hear the pump running at key on. So we pulled the pump and bench tested it, and the pump itself seems fine.
We then checked for spark, we have spark in all cylinders. After that we started checking fuses and #30 under the dash was blown. We replaced that and it blew again at Key on. We ended up going through about a 1/2 dozen of them while poking and prodding at misc. wire harnesses trying to figure out why it keeps blowing. Today we put a new one in and have tried restarting and that one is not blowing anymore, but we still cannot get fuel pressure. We've checked all fuses and swapped relays around. We noticed that under the dash #20 and #21 do not have power, but the fuses are ok. Are we finally on to something here?
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My explorer starts fine some days and others it just wont. No codes, have replaced fuel pump. Rail and starter.
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My car was performing poorly then Stalled while driving, no start since. Put starting fluid in open throttle body for 5 secs, then tried to crank.
fuel pump doesn't turn on (can hear it) for 2 seconds When the Ignition switch is in ON position, You can hear it when cranking in Run position though. So this makes me think that Its not building enough pressure
Pulled it out, hooked it up to a 12V batt and it works.
Someone else changed the spark plugs. Fuel comes of of the line just before the fuel rail. Doesn't squirt like there's a lot of pressure.
Pulled the injectors clean them put them back in with new O rings. Fuel only came out of 2 injectors when cranking.
Pulled the spark plugs check for spark while cranking. They all spark. Put new ones in.
Pump does send fuel when cranking which means the pump, and pump relay should be working I assume.
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I have a 1997 GMC Safari van with 175,000 miles on it. One month ago it wouldn't start. It would crank and crank but just not fire. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump start. I have other transportation available, so I just tried it a couple of times a day with the same result. Some history: about 5 months ago I had the fuel pump replaced. Finally I gave up and had it towed to the shop that had replaced the fuel pump. After it was unloaded from the flatbed, the mechanic tried to start it and it started normally. Since it started, I had an oil change done and had them check all the connections. Afterwards it started normally. I drove it for a few days with no problem and then one morning the same problem- cranking but not starting. Being stubborn, and with tight finances, I tried to start it every day for a week. Same symptoms. Finally today I had it towed to a different mechanic recommended by a friend. Of course, when it was unloaded from the flatbed it started right up. Any theories?
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