Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 3 RepliesI replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
View 2 Replies1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1992 Toyota Camry. About once every 15 to 20 times I turn the ignition, the car won't start. Sometimes there's just a click and then nothing, and sometimes all the lights on the dashboard will flash for a second and then nothing, in each case the starter does not turn over. However, I discovered that instead of needing a jump from another car, if I just connect the jumper cables to the battery and leave the other end of the cable on the ground, the car will start right up after this happens. One other note, the clock is always reset after this. What is the problem and how can this be fixed?
View 6 RepliesCamry 2000 CE 102,xxx miles. My car died in Jan 14, after have P0770 for while, only Reverse gear work. The mechanics said the tranny need to re-build. I had him bring the tranny to tranny shop to re-build ($1650), then the code still pop up. Brought it back, they said the ECU needs to be reset. I had the car next day then that code pop up again!
They replaced the Solenoid E. The code is still there. Brought the car back, they took the tranny to rebuild it again. Drive the car for a day, the darn code pop up again, now they blamed on the ECU. Ok my mechanic guy replaced it at my own cost for part ($150) but the code is still there. This time they blamed on the high idle rpm approx. 1600-1800. My mechanic tried to fix the high idle speed so the tranny stop blaming other causes. He cleaned IAC valve, replace O-rings (I don't remember the location of them) then he said whenever he inserted the new ones, they start to crack!
Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
View 1 Replies2000 Toyota Camry le v6 .... When I first start my car it runs rough after about 5 to 10 minutes it runs fine. I have no check engine light on. I used sea foam and the problem went away for a couple weeks then it came back. I have about 30k on my spark plugs.
View 10 RepliesCarburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
View 5 RepliesIn Jan my 94 Toyota Camry started having issues with starting- for instance, I would run an errand for 10 minutes get back in the car and it wouldn't start. However, this tended to be random. When this problem happened more often I took it in and they said I needed a new starter so I got one (Feb) and didn't have any issues for a month, but then began to have the same issue on and off again. I took my car back in for the second time and they said it must have been a bad starter. They gave me ANOTHER new starter (Apr) and my issues continued soon after. I took it back in and they didn't have an answer for me other than the starter was good. Took it to another mechanic and he had the car for two days and could not find ANY ISSUE with the car. I let it brush over during the summer months because I never had this issue (June-Aug) and now that it's gotten cold again I'm having this problem.
Few things to note: -Anytime I have this issue I'll hit the starter with a hammer and it will ALWAYS start. This has been the case since January.-It ALWAYS starts in the morning and when I get back in my car after working all day. However, if I were to run errands in the morning or at night it would not start with the stop and go. -This only happens in the cold months -They tested the newest starter and they say there's nothing wrong with it.-Within the past two years I've had MANY things replaced on this car and any shops I've taken it to say it's a great car with no issues they can find.
2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
View 1 RepliesI bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2006 Sorento, Idle at start, when cold is 2000 to 2200 rpms. When engine warms idle comes down to normal, 1000.
Replaced several vacuum lines, none showed any leaking but replaced to be sure.
Replaced the PCV valve, the old valve was not closing as it should and the replacement seemed to work some.
Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and checked the old one for movement, moved an 1/8 of and inch from when cold to when hot. The new IAC did improve the problem some.
Tested throttle position sensor voltage, was good through range of motion (including being tapped on to simulate the running of the engine).
Sprayed carburetor cleaner around the engine when cold to look for a possible manifold leak, nothing noted.
Noticed one area that brings down the high idle when sprayed with carburetor cleaner is in the front top center, around a small plastic cylinder which is part of the intake system and has a vacuum manifold which changes the position of the cylinder with engine operation. I have two pictures of the area attached, the white cylinder is at end of paint stick, the vacuum manifold is to the right of the paint stick and yes there are vacuum lines not hooked up in the pictures. Hoping this is not a manifold leak.
I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry 4cylinder. On first start of the day the engine shakes a little untill it warms up and is driven for about 2 blocks. After that it is smooth. I cleaned what I could of the throttle body on the car, changed spark plugs and PCV. All that worked but cold start shake still there.
View 9 RepliesI have a gorgeous, mint 4x4 1992 Toyota pickup...that runs terribly. Sometimes, it won't start. When it does start, it often idles very, very low. (Idler tension cable was adjusted up but it didn't work.) When I drive it, the idle goes up and down between very low and 4000 RPM. Sometimes, it stalls out all together, regardless of what I do to the clutch, brake, or acceleration. In an engine diagnosis, Knock Sensor came up, but there's a new one, and the cable harness is fully gone through. It's got a new engine with 67,000 miles on it, a new fuel pump, and just about every part has been replaced. It's been to about 10 mechanics, all of whom can't figure it out.
View 11 RepliesI've got an "on- and off-going" problem with my '92 S10 Blazer.
Car specs:
Year 1992
Blazer S10 4.3 Tbi
4- doors 4WD
Mileage 200k miles
Symptoms:
As cold, every now and then it will start right up, but the idle is wery rough, and seems like its running on less than 6 cylinders. When giving gas, it revs up, but runs roughly and still seems to be running on less than 6. Won't stall though.
When engine warms up after a couple of minutes, the idle gets smooth and no issues what ever when driving.
So just to be clear, this issue is so far only happening when staring cold.
Parts (new off course) changed recently (less than 500miles on them):
Distributor
Spark plugs + wires
Alternator
Battery
IAC valve
Fuel filter
This symptom came up now and then before changing any parts. I am quite handy with cars (pure amateur though), but can't really afford solving the proble by changing loads of parts with no effect..
Recently purchased a used 2003 Toyota Camry LE. After a recent oil change at the local Toyota dealer we noticed that when we start the car in the morning a puff of white smoke spews out from the exhaust for a few seconds and stops. There is no more white smoke while driving the car around. The car runs perfect and has no power loss. Initially we had noticed it was losing coolant. All the discussion on the internet pointed to a bad head gasket. We had a mechanic look at it and it turned out that the radiator was leaking and hence the loss of coolant. He also noticed the oil was overfilled so he brought it down to the normal level. The mechanic also checked the head gasket and claimed there were no issues with it. Replacing the radiator took care of the coolant loss but the white smoke still comes out only the first time the car is started.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
My 2000 v6 Toyota Camry has a very strong gas smell that makes my eyes water on start up. It only happens once in a while(can go for weeks with no smell) but it is actually scary when it happens and people near the car sometimes comment on the smell too. I have had my mechanic look at it but it hasn't happened while it was at the shop. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesIt's a 1992 Celica, GTS 2.2L for reference.
After driving down the highway I noticed my temp fluctuated from half way to full and bounced around until I arrived at the closest Canadian Tire/Station. I looked under the hood and noticed the stain on the coolant container wasn't the actual level of coolant. I then topped off the coolant and parked the car for about a week. When I tried to start her up, I was faced with a weak and poor idle. Almost as if the car is struggling to run. I have had times in the recent years in the summer months were I felt I had to pump the pedal on really hot days to kickstart her so she would run. Was this a warning sign? Other than this problem I face, the car runs smooth. I did a good tune up 2 years back, replacing the ignition coil, plugs, etc..
The idle goes from 0 - 500RPM in neutral and when I apply gas it struggles to gain power. The car is parked, I don't dare to take her around the block. It stutters and seems like she is struggling to get fuel. I say that because, when the key is turned to the on position I do not hear the fuel pump underneath the back seat activate. I did try jumping the terminals, something like B+ and FP.... The pump turned on and I heard fuel but when I started the car, I still had the same problem. I would need to pump gas or she would stall out. I do not know where the fuel line is to try and check the pressure or even where the relay is located.
Could it be the Fuel Pump?
Could it be the Fuel Pump Relay?
Something Else?
My guess is the Fuel Pump, but if you could take a few mins and replay that would be great. I have had my Celica for about 7 years and I would like to keep her going!