Toyota - Camry :: 2000 - Loud Noise And Check Engine Light On
Aug 5, 2013
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with about 136,000 miles on it. Recently because it was making a loud noise and because the check engine light was on we got the exhaust system changed at Coles and this made the car silent as before.The mechanic there checked the check engine light code and reset it and he said it was an Evap code.He checked the fuel cap and found it to be OK. He said that if it comes back again I have to get it checked by some one who has a smoke machine to detect the leak and this could cost me about $100/- to set it right.The check engine light has come back again.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry that has a unique problem. The Check Engine light NEVER comes on even when first starting the car. I have access to a scanner and know that the car periodically throws a catalyst code but the light never comes on. I just assumed that the bulb was burned out.
Today while solving a non-working clock issue I had to take the instrument cluster to get to the clock. While I had it out I decided to check the Check Engine Light bulb. It looked fine so I took I replaced it with a bulb that I knew worked fine. Again, nothing. The bulb doesn't light at all. About 4 weeks ago my timing belt broke while driving (non-interference motor) and it threw a code for the camshaft position sensor but again the light never came on.
Why the light never comes on?
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I had my 2000 Toyota Camry with 133,921 miles on it seen because of the check engine light.The codes obtained at the repair shop were:
P0136: Oxygen Sensor CKT Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0446: Evap Control system Vent CKT Malfunction
They then ran a smoke test and found that the charcoal canister was leaking and needed replacement. The mechanic said that not doing the above would not affect the car's performance or its safety but it would not pass inspection with the check engine light on and with those codes.
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2003 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder
I am experiencing a loud noise which is getting worse from inside my engine compartment. I took off the heat shield assuming it was coming from the exhaust manifold but it is not. It sounds more like it is coming from the intake manifold. Now I would assume it was the intake manifold issue that has been described in many threads but it is not a vibration or clanging sound. It just sounds like air is escaping from my intake. What baffles me is that the sound is loudest in drive. Then neutral is the next loudest, then reverse there is very little unordinary sound.
I hear it a little bit when I am going like 15-20 MPH in reverse and let off the gas to decelerate. There is a noticeable noise increase just at idle too. I checked and all fluid levels are good. I changed the tranny fluid about a month ago and according to the dipstick it is right on where it should be. The sound is increasing and I am worried about what it may be. It sounds as if it has an exhaust leak but I do not see anything.
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I am trying to diagnose a sound that is coming from my 2001 Camry 2.2L. When I accelerate there is a load humming noise coming from the engine. It happens at all speeds and only when I accelerate.
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I have a 2000 Toyota solara. Everything runs fine. No misfires or weir sounds. But the check engine light has been turning on and off. It turns off at random times and usually turns back on after I get gas. I finally got the code scanned. It is P1410. While at autozone I got a new gas cap based on prior postings and filled up the tank to see if that trick would work. To my delight, the cel turned off upon starting the engine. It remained off for thirty minutes before it came back on. So now I am stuck with the code.
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Car: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??
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2001 Camry 4 cylinder. Check engine light came on yesterday. Advance Auto pulled out the code P0446 for the evap. emissions system vent circuit.
The car has no symptoms other than this and is current on all maintenance, but obviously it is a 10-year old car and so it goes.
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My check engine light kicked on about 6 months ago. The code was for the catalytic converter, which I did not replace because it is less than 2yrs old. It would go on and off intermittently, and for the last week it has remained off. All the other dash lights work fine, and I know it's not the fuse...
'97 Toyota Camry, 231,000 miles.
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So I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6. Back in december I got into a front end accident, had the front repaired, (they did remove the coolant container and refilled it etch) Got my car back on December 22, coolant was full. A few days ago, checked again and i noticed the white coolant container was empty (there were some pink at a corner, i guess because the hose doesn't reach that low), i checked the metal cap, it was not "completely" empty just had a very very low layer of pink coolant. (i would say just some coolant at the surface)
I do recall a sweet burning smell maybe a month or 2 ago, but my engine light did not ever come on. When i refilled it, (my dad recommended to refill just half) I did that, a day later, i checked the levels again, it was empty again. so i refilled it to half again. i drove this morning for about 10 mins, its still at the same level (maybe i didn't drive it long enough?)
I'm freaking out whether i have been driving the car without coolant for that long, and whether there were any engine damage done (even though the engine light didn't come on) I have driven the car alittle over 5k since i got the car back.
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My check engine light came on about 4 days ago on my 2014 toyota camry. Found the gas cap was loose that same day it came on and tightened but light is still on and Eco mode not coming on. Is it possible the problem is something else or does it take longer for the light to turn off.
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I had my local garage do their electronic check when my check engine light came on. They said the code they got indicated a failed catalytic converter and quoted me $720.00 for a California compliant replacement, including labor. I live in Connecticut. I'd like to take a few days to get a second opinion and second quote, but the garage manager said that driving it in this condition would risk fouling the oxygen sensor, which I recently replaced for a couple hundred bucks.
Should I be concerned about fouling the oxygen sensor by continuing to drive the car? 2000 Toyota Camry...
I looked under the car and the rear attachment bolts to the converter are rusted beyond recognition. I'm tempted to try replacing it myself but it may be a bit beyond my skills.
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Check engine light was on for some time when I had filler neck and cap replaced. Computer sensors did not re-set until 501 mile mark, when light came on again. Checking the web, I find that some who appear to have knowledge of problem say it could be hoses, sensors, valves, or evap canister--the charcoal canister.
Mechanic who did original smoke test and recommended replacement of filler tube wants to replace evap canister without checking anything else. What should I do? At wits end, and car needed to pass inspection 2 days ago. Car has 157,000 miles or so...
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Today my check engine light came on and the code is P0712. When I drove off from the parts store, the check engine light suddenly went off. What should I do at this point? What are the most likely problems/solutions.
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I own a 2000 Toyota Camry that was given to me by my father. The check engine light illuminated last year so I brought the car in to my mechanic. He said it was the o2 sensor and changed it. That lasted about a month , and the light went on again. This time it had to do with some valves that get stuck open (or closed) but also had to do with the amount of oxygen that goes into the carburetor . I asked my Dad if he had this problem, and he told me that the engine light was illuminated often, that he had brought the car in about 6 times, but nothing was found. Previously I owned a 1998 Camry, and had the same problem; the check engine light illuminates, the diagnosis is the oxygen sensor, that gets changed, the light goes on again, this valve thing gets changed but the light goes on again in a month. I can't get the car inspected with the engine light illuminated. The light always goes back on but nothing else is found wrong with the vehicle. I really know nothing about cars.
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So my 2012 plugin was parked for about 3 days, and when I turned it on, heard loud knocking and the check engine light came and stayed on.
When switching the car on or off, I'll hear two taps/ticks that were not there before. Loud knocking is not there now.
What can the issue be? It was very cold and snowing.
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My Toyota Corolla 2000, 123,000 miles, Mass license plate, still getting 34 miles per gallon, has had check engine light on and off for a year.Failed inspection this June.
First garage in Somerville, without doing more than getting the three readings above, said catalytic converter was needed $350 plus labor.I was unable to do the work then and returned to NYC and job. Took to another mechanic recently to get fixed (as I wasn't returning to Mass for a while)and got only PO 171. I mentioned the other readings; they kind of scoffed it off.Trying to save me money (I guess), they cleaned the MAF filter and fuel ejectors for $200. Looked like it was fixed. A week later check engine light came on again and when I brought in found the PO 420 reading. They did not tell me if other computer read-outs were coming up as well.
Now they want to leave the oxygen sensor in front but change the one behind. Put in a newcatalytic converter $539 {they had quoted me $238 but it wasn't an OEM one I guess and they said they wouldn't warranty anything but this expensive one), charge me$137 for the oxygen sensor190 laborplus taxfor a total of a whooping $946!
I am afraid they will do this very expensive job and the check engine light will come on and htey will say o its something else.how can i be sure? also I was reading for a catalytic converter to go bad, something has caused it...what would that be? how to find out. Do they need to do the diagnosis with gas analyzer etc?
Why I spend a huge amount for an old car that is running well, not losing gas mileage, but perhaps is a bit slower on power.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
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I recently bought a 2007 toyota Camry le v6 with less than 38,000 miles it currently has 39,300 miles and my check engine light is on along with the VSC and a skid control light (car with squiggle lines behind it) we have a had lots of rain here where I live and I had to drive through a couple deep water puddles. I looked up online and it said The engine light may turn on if the VSC and skid control lights are on. Could this be that the sensors maybe got wet? I don't think anything should be wrong with this car considering it's a toyota with less than 40k miles
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