Toyota - Camry :: 2002 - Extreme Swaying On Freeways On Turns And High Winds
Apr 21, 2011
My 2002 camry has been driving poorly the last few months with extreme swaying on freeways on turns and high winds. When I took it to Toyota a while back they said they needed to replace the rear sway bar bushings. Sounded right but at the time to avoid all the costs with other repairs, brakes etc, I put it off. Now I took it to the local mech and he says he cannot see anything wrong even after driving andwhere toyota found a rear seal leak he did not pick up on this. I will take it back to toyota ..
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Alright I did a search and found these threads with no final resolution on each. My new 2013 has the whistling noise at high speeds (65+) and high winds. It's for sure not from the engine and coming from both the driver and passenger mirrors. I can hear it with either or both front windows down but not back windows. No whistle at idle or due to high RPMs. What is the Jetta TSB # or a fix for this issue.
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2006 Hyundai Accent
About two weeks ago I was told my tires were worn and I was experiencing what felt like a slight slipping sensation when turning corners on the highway. Mechanic chalked this up to my tires being worn. They checked them out and my passenger rear tire was significantly worn on the inside tread...
I replaced all four tires...I have checked the pressure and it is at 30psi as indicated on the inside of the driver side door.
Now when I'm driving on the highway I experience what can be described as a rocking sensation (as if you were on a boat) sometimes when driving straight and almost always when making left turns....once the rocking starts if I slightly turn the wheel to the right it goes away.
I'm thinking something with the rear passenger side is causing this as the compensation would appear on the drivers front (correct?!) and the worn tire gives it away...just wondering what component I should start looking at first and what cost I might be looking at.
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We have an '02 Toyota Camry with about 92,000 miles on it that is making a weird intermittent "Whooping" noise. The sound starts low and then goes high. It seems to come from the dashboard or the steering column I think.
A guy at the parts store said he thought it might be radiator core going bad, but admitted it's hard to know without him hearing it.
I've tried to record the "Whooping" sound but obviously the car never makes it when I'm trying to do this or can be easily heard on a recording. Additionally we took it to a mechanic and they didn't hear anything!
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It has been just about a year since I bought my CPO 2007 GX470, and I still love it like the first day I drove her! I've noticed one little thing I can't put my finger on, though - an intermittent rumbling/rattling sound coming from the ceiling during high speed highway driving and/or high winds.
Now, I've checked the sunroof itself, and there doesn't appear to be any "give" to it. It's solid. Same for the surrounding parts of the mechanism. Yet for some reason, during 70+ MPH driving and/or high winds, I get this low-pitched "WHUUUM..WHUUUUM..." vibration from somewhere above my head.
Haven't taken it to the dealer yet since I'd like to identify the issue myself if I can, but it's hard to isolate when you're focused on driving.
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I just installed a new pair of PSS10 coilovers on the R today and everything is running great, except a creaking noise I am hearing under extreme turns. If I am going slow, I can whip the wheel all the way to one direction and hear the creaking noise, or if I am going around a longer corner at higher speeds, I hear it as well. I've taken the wheels off and checked, everything is tightened.
Based on the searching, most are complaints of similar sounds but in straight lines. This is only when turning. There are only 20k miles on the car, but that includes 7 weekends of HPD events. So worn/dry bushings or joints was my first thought.
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I have a 2002 Accent that has recently started to sway side to side when I'm turning left. It almost feels like the back end is swaying but it's hard to tell. I've recently had the CV Boots replaced as they were torn but I don't think that's related at all.
I'm wondering if it could be the suspension. I've looked at all the wheel housing and checked the steering rod for any play but everything seems fine. If it could be the suspension how would I go about checking it.
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I have a 02 F250 V10. When I am pulling a trailer and began to travel over 50 MPH the truck feels like its moving left to right almost like its sliding on ice. Its worse the more weight I am pulling. When I am not pulling anything there is no issues. The trailers I am pulling are gooseneck trailers. What would cause this.
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Yesterday, I went through my car doing a complete LED conversion. I got everything done. And then I replaced my high beams with Silverstar Ultras. I didn't touch my fog lights or my low beams (these will come next.) And then I went and got some wings with the boys, showing off my new LEDs and my bright high beams. We noticed that my fog lights turn off when my high beams were activated. A cool point I never knew about, but, it is extremely relevant in this story.
This morning I went to work, and noticed that my fog lights were not working. So after work, I came home and tried everything to get them working, check fuse in car, and tried every combination of light to activate them. Then I checked the fuse box under the hood, I hadn't actually ever looked in there before. When I did, I noted that the 10amp fuse, Fog R/R was missing... MISSING. I took the spare from the cover and put it in, and bam, fog lights work again.
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My 1998 Toyota Camry with about 157k creaks esp around turns and even more with adult rear seat passengers (not my in-laws my husband's). When my dealership did a really expensive routine service on my car said the front links and bushings needed to be replaced, but after the amount they charged me I had no money left. Would fixing these fix my creaking? If not should I do replace them anyways?
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2004 camry 4 cyl. turns over slow but starts. I checked battery voltage (car not running) it is 12.6 volts. when cranking in dropped to 6.??. The post terminals and cables looked ok but I did not disconnect or remove them to check. How can I verify if it is a bad battery or a bad starter.
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My 2001 Toyota camry has twice just barely started. The car normally starts just fine but there are 2 times after I had been driving and making frequent stops and starts then the car barely turns over when I try to start it. Both times I did manage to get it started and then it ran fine and when I stopped it at home it restarted fine. Each time I also noticed that the clock had reset itself. There was a period of about 3 weeks between the two times it did this. Both days that this happened it was very hot outside. Why this is happening?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry thats leaking oil profusely. Within a week of topping oil, the oil leak light turns on. The mechanic says that leak is somewhere near the engine and he needs to tear it apart to see whats up. Estimates run upto $ 800. I am trying to extract life from the car. Is Lucas stop leak advisable?
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The motor turns over but it just don't seem to have enough power to start. Have not tried to arc check from the plug wires. I believe the coil is internal on this model.
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My 1995 Toyota Camry will not start, the engine turns but does not engage. I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, and a relay switch replaced. After each repair the car runs for twp weeks and then will not start. I have had it towed and the mechanics start the car with no problem and they are unable to diagnose the problem. In a month and a half, I have had the car towed 3 times.
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I have an issue with extreme high initial idle at start up. I took my 1998 Ranger with a 3.0L to the local dealer to have some work done about a month ago. Long story short, my number six plug wire got burned against the exhaust rail.
Anyway, I guess they re-flashed the computer to the newest *.bin, or flash version. After that when I start the truck the tachometer jumps up to 2200 - 2300 RPM and then it settles down to about 1500 after a moment or two, then it finally adjusts itself to about 1100 for a few more seconds and eventually ends up at 900 - 1000 RPM.
I confronted Ford about this and they said that Ranger's and F-150's do have a tendency to do that at start up. Ordinarily I wouldn't be too concerned, however I believe that the 2200 - 2300 RPM high idle at start up at 0 F, a bit much.
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Nearly new Camry with 9,000 miles. When trying to get back up to speed after making right or left turns, there is a definite hesitation before accelerating. No hesitation when accelerating from a dead stop. Also transmission kicks down at very small hills/grades where if not on cruise control, it would not need to "kick down" to maintain speed. This is a 4 cylinder engine and provides adequate power when not running in "cruise". I suppose this is just the nature of the breed. Except for these two small problems, it is a fine comfortable car.
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6.0L revving to extreme high RPMs and kill? Blow turbo was replace, fired right up but upon pulling it out while giving it lower RPMS (2000) engine over revved and killed - Now crank but no start. Checked everything. Removed valve covers, checked injectors, great fuel pressure.
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My wipers lately park in the extreme "up" (all the way left) position. The only way to get them to park in the normal "down" position is to use an intermittent wiper setting, wait for the pause between strokes, and then turn it off. It's a 2002 model.
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Extreme tempertaures in NJ this week.Can this car handle this extreme heat without stripping the head bolt threads? Less than a minute after I start my car in this heat my fan turns on, yet the temp gauge is still below the middle mark..Can this car handle 90 degree + temps (also have A/C) on?2006 Camry Le 60K Miles--replaced coolant around a year ago.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Camry SE with about 6,xxx miles on it. Called up the dealership I bought it from and they are going to charge me an arm n log to see what is going on.
The issue is there is no air blowing from Lo-High, all lights work except A/C, so i'm guessing its not the AC/Heat control.
This is what I've done so far in DYI:
1. replaced Blower motor Resistor.
2. Check the Fuse underneath the steering wheel. (Still Good)
this is what I'm going to do next:
1. Buy A/C relay $75+ tax (dealer)
2. Change Blower Motor $175+ tax (dealer)
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