Toyota - Camry :: 2005 - Engine Kept Going For More Than A Minute After Shut It Off
May 23, 2015
This is about my mother's 2005 Camry (4 cyl., about 21,000 mi.). She called this evening and told me that the engine kept going for more than a minute after she shut it off. She didn't notice any problems with the engine while driving, only when she shut it down. I assume that the car has an electronic ignition, so I'm puzzled. The transmission parking rod was just repaired, but I don't see how that would be related. I suggested that she fill half-empty tank with premium gas from a national brand.
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I did an earlier post that the engine in our 2006 would make a gurgling sound for up to a minute after the engine was shut off. I received some replies, mostly saying that this noise was normal.
Well, the other day I decided to check the fluid level in the radiator's reservoir & it was low so I filled it and ---- the gurgling noise has stopped.
Could this gurgling just be a warning that the radiator's fluid is a bit low? So far, this filling has worked for us !! I'd bet that this is rarely checked by any dealer during an oil change?
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I have a 1999 honda civic that has had an issue with randomly shutting off lately. It always happens within a minute of me turning the car on and I usually have to wait several minutes before the car will crank again. When it does the engine shuts off and all lights immediately go off. Once I finally do get the car to crank its hit or miss if it will stay running, but if it makes it through the first minute or so its usually golden. Its like it has to have a perfect connection or something or it wont stay on. The only suggestion I've had from someone is possibly the ignition being bad.
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My 99 Camry solara is hissing when I start the engine and doesn't go away until the car is shut off ---- then it hisses a few seconds more, then quits.The heating / cooling isn't on and I just had the oil changed yesterday at 227,000+ miles. What this could be?
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I just bought a Camry 05 v4. it has 79k mileage. I hear some noises from engine area; what is this annoying noise coming from?
Here is my recorded video.....
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Camry LE V6. It started when the CD play stopped working, and rather than going to the dealer I just bought an OEM one on craigslist. It works great, except now when I take the key out of the car after about 30 seconds the electronics shut off completely. Dome light goes out, map lights don't work, keyfob doesn't work, etc. As soon as I put the key in the car and turn it to ACC or ON everything comes back, but if I take the key out I lose power within 30 seconds or so.
I am assuming this is a security feature because there is likely a mismatch in codes between the original, and new radios.
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I have 2010 Toyota Camry, whose battery was replaced about 2 months ago. The oil was changed about a month ago also. Two days ago i was driving out of my gyms parking garage and 5 minutes into the drive my car completely shut off in the middle of traffic. It happened as soon as i hung up the phone while talking to my husband on a car speaker system. The car would not turn on, my dashboard looked like a rainbow with all the warning lights on, the windows worked, there was no sound coming from the car even when i tried to turn it on. I called AAA to have a wrecker move my car from the middle of traffic, and they stated there were no available wreckers, that i would have to wait 2 hours...so finally push the car into a drive way. So about 20 minutes pass by while I am waiting for my husband, and all the sudden I am able to turn my car on. I drove my car all the way home with my husband behind me ( 30 minute drive) with no problems. I still haven't had a problem but now I am paranoid that it might happen again.
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I have a 4 cyl 2000 camry. I notice the smell of burning oil when I shut off the car and while I'm driving. There is no black smoke coming from the tail pipe and it uses minimal oil. I removed the spark plugs and found oil on the threads of spark plug # 2, but not on the electrode. What's up?
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My 97 Rav4 shut down on the highway yesterday. Checked the oil when I lifted the hood. It has only been 4500 since the last oil change, but the oil was barely registering on the stick. The engine will turn over, but will not start. Do Toyotas have an auto shut off mechanism when the oil gets too low or is my Rav4 toast? There were no warnings, temperature, low oil light, nothing.
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I have 2004 Toyota Camry V4 Automatic , I recently installed a Two way Compustar Remote Starter a month ago. While i was driving my vehicle on the highway (110 kmph) my car engine shut off completely with no lights. I parked my car on the shoulder and again start my car normally with the key and was able to start it normally. There was no engine check lights or any kind of warning.
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Ave an 02 Camry 4 Cly
Noticed small puddle of coolant under the car - then noticed overflow empty and radiator a little low on fluid. Noted some coolant below the thermostat.
After filling back to proper levels, ran engine for a while with no apparent leaking. Took a couple of short trips and inspected after each trip and no leaking noticed.
Checked several hours later and noted coolant below thermostat housing and on ground. After a couple more trip noted coolant level dropping again.
What would cause fluid to leak after engine shut down? Could be coming from another location, but my attention is on the thermostat at present.
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Whenever I start up my 2001 Highlander it makes an awful screeching noise that sometimes lasts up to a minute or two long! It doesn't just happen when I start it too. Sometimes I'll be just driving along and it will start screeching like a bat out of hell and quite a minute later. Also, sometimes when I accelerate quickly it will briefly ( a little peep) screech. I thought it was my fan belts so I got both of them replaced about a month ago and it temporarily fixed the problem. About a week or so after they were replaced, I put the key in the ignition and Squeak...
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I have a 2011 Toyota tacoma with 35k miles. Yesterday while driving at about 70-75mph on the freeway with no warning the vehicle shut down and the engine light came on. It made a clunk about the the time it shut off, it wasn't very loud but I could feel it. I'n not sure if that noise was just the vehicle powering down or transmission kicking from the change in torque? I pulled off the freeway, there were no fluids leaking, serpentine belt was in place. The truck will turn over but not start. The check engine light flashes rapidly.
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I've got a 2005 Toyota Camary. It has a high pitched squeak that occurs off and on, but always disappears the second I press on the break. It sounds like it's coming from the driver's side... possibly the driver's side rear?
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I have 2005 Toyota Camry LE (V4 2.4L), for some reason it stopped shifting gears, weird part that it does drive on 1st or 2nd gear but then it won't shift to the next gears, instead, it acts as if I am on neutral, doesn't matter how much gas I push or how high RMP goes the car just rolls as if I switched to neutral.
Once the RPM goes high, I stop the car, turn of the car, turn it back again and then it wouldn't even shift into first gear, it acts as if I am in neutral. Additionally, the reverse in the car works as it should, no problem there. The check engine light is not on!
What have I already done: Changed oil in transmission (just in case the oil was dirty - it was dark), unplugged battery for an hour (see if computer needed resetting after transmission oil change).
I googled the symptoms and it seems like there could be solenoid problem and that there is like four of them in V4, which type of solenoid could have failed, will cleaning it useful or is the electrical problem in the solenoid, or is there some kind of other problem.
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So, I have a 2005 Toyota Camry remote locks have not worked for a while. Also started having the issue with the two front doors where the manual electric locks worked intermittently. I replaced the little RC car motors in the door lock actuators today and got that squared away so that works great now. I also ordered a new remote to program. I programmed the remote and everything seems to go fine with that (The locks cycle when they are supposed to etc.). However, once I program the remote it just doesn't work.
So, trying to figure out what is going on here. Should I just return the remote and try to get a different one...but would it even program if it the remote where not compatible.
Also, read some about about a Door control receiver module. which that is basically a wireless receiver right? I would think if it could receive a signal and cycle the locks during programming then it should work normally??
I drove the car for years and just did not worry about it but have passed it down to my teenage daughter and would like her to be able to unlock the doors while approaching the car so she can just hop in and go without having to fumble around with keys.
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In have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 120,000 miles. Upon starting the engine there is a puff of blue smoke with smell of oil burning. There does not appear to be any smoke during the running of the car. What the root cause could be? Rings? Head gasket?
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I own a Toyota Camry that has about 180,000 miles. Yesterday, when I started the car, a high pitched whine occurred when the engine turned and the volume of the whine decreased after about 5 minutes (car was in park). The pitch of the whine increases when I accelerate, up to about 50 mph, and then the whine stops around the 50 mph mark. When the car decelerates, the pitch of the whine decreases. This does not seem to be linked in any way to the steering. The whine does occur when the car idles.
There are no alert lights on in the dashboard, only an odd noise.
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I have a 2005 Camry XLE V6. For a few months now, I have had an inconsistent heavy (doesn't sound like a sheet metal or loose trim) rattle which appears to come from the left front end or engine compartment. Sounds like a bowling ball bumping up and down when passing over bumps, speed humps, potholes, etc. My mechanic checked everything and couln't find a specific cause. He said maybe it was related to the front struts, but said he didn't want to replace anything when he couldn't verify that as the cause. He says everything else looks tight and safe. This is driving us nuts.
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We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
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When I start my '05 Camry (4 cyl - SE) it revs up to 2K, though only briefly. I don't like to go over 1,000 rpm until it's warmed up. Toyota dealer says that's normal ... Would it hurt to try it with the cold start (water temp) sensor unplugged ?........
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