Toyota - Camry - Batteries :: 1996 - Won't Start Easily - Makes Noise When Trying To Start
Oct 22, 2011
I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
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What is wrong with car?
This car has been sitting in my car porch for a little over two months. I would start it once every 1 or 2 weeks and let it run for a minute. I assume the battery was not at the best of it shape since every time I started the car, it would take a little more time, but the car would end up starting just fine. After a two weeks break, the power was down and nothing would turn on at all. I jump started the Camry with cables connected to my own car and thought I would start the Camry and take it for a ride, make sure the battery gets a chance to recharge.
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But nothing happened when I turn the key, nothing but this "machine gun"-like noise ( which you can hear on the video [URL] .... don't know if by starting the car without driving it for two month, I did not give a chance to the car to recharge the battery, which led to the total loss of power, but this does not explain why when jump started, the engine won't turn on, and does not explain this sound I hear...
So i have a 1996 honda accord, i recently just got a new motor put in it. Its a used motor but a good one. I picked the car up from the shop yesterday, i drove it all day yesterday and today. It drives and sounds so much better than it did before. My husband goes to leave for work this evening and it wont start, it just makes a click noise when you turn the key, it wont even crank over. The battery is brand new and not used, the starter is brand new and not used, we just got both this year. It sounds like the clicking noise is coming from where the starter is, somewhere in that area. Could the starter have went bad on us? He checked all the cables and wires to see maybe if something is loose, everything seems to be in tact and tight.
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When I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
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I have 91 camry that when you go to start it, it turns over then makes a chugging/choking sound and wont start. battery is good bc the radio/lights/etc come on, and i can put everything into gear. Its about 35 degrees here so im hoping that it may just be needing some antifreeze which is on the way.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla that will not start unless it is jumped, but it's not as simple as that.
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Once it's jumped it runs well after a few minutes to warm up. The gentleman from AAA informed me that the battery is bad and needs replacement, but when I took it to the store where I purchased it (and it is still under warranty) they informed me that they would charge it first to verify it was still working before offering a replacement. Forty-five minutes later they assured me that battery was fully charged and would hold a charge. I took it home and put it into the car and it still will not start.
But it's not as simple as that... Here's the odd thing thing. When I put the battery in, and place key in the ignition the usual check engine light, door ajar light, dome light (etc.) work. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a single click then... nothing. If I take the key out and reinsert it, the usual check engine light, door ajar light, etc do NOT work.
Stranger still. If I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it (or just wait 20 minutes) the check engine light, door ajar light, etc do work, until I try to star the car and then the single click returns and the process repeats. To add there is moderate corrosion on the battery terminals.
i have a 96 toyota celica sx which makes a horrible noise when i start it, its almost like a high pitch rattling noise, usually goes away when it warms up but sometimes still making it accelerating, think the noise is coming from area which is in the photo, what it is?
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Diagnosing the following behavior with a '99 4Runner.
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A couple months ago it was hard to start and the battery wasn't fully charging. It cranked but not very strongly and took a few times to turn over. The battery was old so I figured it was bad and replaced it.
Everything was fine for a couple weeks then it started doing nothing every other time I'd turn the key to start. All the dash lights and everything would come on but when I turned the key to start, it wouldn't even click, nothing. When it would crank, it started up fine. After a while it started taking 5-6 attempts to engage the starter and eventually like 20-30 and then wouldn't start at all.
I check the battery with a MM and it was reading 3.5v! I pulled the leads off and the voltage started to rise, after about an hour it was up to 8v. But when I put the cables on it immediately drops back to 3.5v. I pulled the fuses one by one, reconnecting the batt cables in between to see if I could isolate the circuit that was causing the drop but no luck. There were a few fuses that were bolted in that I couldn't get out though.
Anyway, there must be something that ties all this behavior together, maybe a bad relay or something?
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 74,000 miles on it, and it has had trouble starting for 2 or 3 years. When it started, I would turn the key and the car would almost, but not quite, start, and simply turning it off and trying again would work immediately. I had the battery replaced and the spark plugs at ~50,000 miles to no avail. About a month ago, I started my car and it had a really rough idle for about 15 - 30 seconds and the check engine light came on (registered an emission issue), but it ran fine. I had to get a routine oil change and emissions test anyway and they checked the spark plugs as a first measure. They all had some wear, but one was almost worn down to nothing, which the mechanic said was a result of the spark plugs (autolites?) so they replaced them with the Nissan recommended NGK kind. The next day my car didn't start the first immediately, but on second try worked. A week later I noticed my car sometimes rumbling on idle right after start again, so they replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump. Didn't work, I still have a rumble about 30% of the time when I start, and just two days ago the check engine light came back on (I haven't had time to get it diagnosed yet). Without knowing much about cars, it feels like the engine isn't getting enough fuel or something. Could it be dirty/clogged fuel injectors? Should I be worried that my spark plugs were worn down after just 25,000 miles?
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My car makes a trouble sound when turning the wheel. It has been to the shop and new steering wheel fluids and a few other adjustments were done. I have a friend his daughters car just started making the same sound. My car has been doing this for months. We both have the same make and year car.
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I've got a 2000 Toyota Camry with about 120,000 miles on it. We bought it used in 2012 and it's been a great car except it makes a wha-wha-wha noise when driving. The sound speeds up as the car speeds up and becomes a whine at highway speed. The noise can be heard from both outside and inside the car and sounds like it is coming from the front of the car. About a year ago I took it to a mechanic and he said that he drove it as did another mechanic in the shop and they couldn't even hear the noise. The noise now seems to be getting louder. I think it is probably a wheel bearing and it is time to take it to a different mechanic.
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My camry suddenly won't start. when i turn the key it makes this single click but won't start. Battery seems to be good. bad starter?
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About a month ago I went to get into my car and it would not start. It tried to but after testing things with my neighbor there didn't seem to be consistent spark. So I bought a new distributor. Got it installed and the car worked great. Then after about a week we had a heavy rain while I was driving. The car shut off and wouldn't start. After the rain was over for about an hour I went to look over the car and it started. I thought with the heavy rain something got wet. Then things really went down hill. A day or so later when I went to start the car it didn't want to start and when it did it would misfire. Later that day the car started fine but would only run right if the engine was warmed up.
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I tried covering the car completely with a tarp, no change. My cousin who is a skilled mechanic said he was pretty sure that the issue was the new distributor. So I got a used one, not wanting to pay another large amount again. Put that in the car and no change. So I pulled the plugs on the car. Plugs 1 and 4 had a heavy carbon build up on the tips with pitting in the carbon. I had had them replaced, with the wires back in October. So I replaced the plugs and coated the wires in liquid electrical tape. Car started fine like it does in the afternoons. Nest day it was raining and I went to see what the car would do. It started! I drove it that day with no issue at all. The next day I went to start the car thinking my issues where over. The issue has returned. I changed out the plugs with new ones that night. Car started fine that night. Next day the car is still not wanting to start and misfires when it does. It has been damp but covering it doesn't change anything.
My 2005 Prius shakes and makes a weird noise when I go to start it up in the morning. This usually only occurs from cold start in the mornings. Once I warm it up for ~2-3 mins all seems to be well. No CEL or anything of that nature. Trying to troubleshoot what the problem is with these cold startups. (76K)
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The engine turns and air blows out of the throttle body. My fuel pump and TPS is good. What else could it be?
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So this morning I started my car to let it warm up (as I usually do), but noticed it shut off after a few minutes. It did this twice. 3rd time I tried to start it nothing happened, so I waited a minute then tried again, that time it started. Drove it to work without any issues.
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192,852 miles. I pushed down on the wiring harness when reattaching the (now) somewhat shorter "H" hose. Thought this could be a problem, so I then ran the "H" hose UNDER the harness (which seemed better). Any chance I could've broken a wire in the harness? I didn't move it very much at all, but those wires have been drying out for 13 years now. The car started right up afterward repairing the hose, but suddenly stopped after idling for about 5-7 minutes ... then it wouldn't start again for at least 15 minutes when it "caught" and idled for about 1 minute. Hasn't started again since. Besides the usual P0430 and P1131 codes, I noticed two other codes: P1744 and P0340.
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Don't know if they just showed up today or if they've been there a while. My guess is it's the latter because I once saw P1744 about 7+ years ago and it was due to the cooling system not cooling the tranny fluid sufficiently (which is what has been happening again lately with the coolant leaking out of the "H" hose ... and the Degas tank before that). Temp gauge has been running past mid-scale at idle ... an indication of low fluid, and I've been filling as needed to prevent overheating until this weekend when I finally installed a new "T" on the "H" hose (it was leaking at the molded "T"). P0340 I saw pop up about a year ago during very cold weather. I wouldn't doubt that the damn magnet on the sensor has once again fallen into the synchro like it did 8+ years ago, but would this cause a no-start condition? I wouldn't think so... The car cranks plenty strong. Just won't "catch" and start. Up until today and the hose job, it had been running fine. Even drove it this morning about 10 miles. Could I have a coincidental fuel pump failure? Seems TOO coincidental, doesn't it?
This started when the weather got cold. The car crank sputters a bit initially then cranks only. I can get it started by turning the distributor sometimes. The day I got it started I checked timing and it looked normal from what I read (10 degrees from TDC).
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The next day it did it again so after some testing again I replaced the distributor and the car was up and going again. On the third day the car started and ran normally and i thought the issue was solved until day 4 when this started again. I guess i'll check the fuel delivery.
Btw the only work done on this car in the last year other than oil changes was a timing belt (by someone else) the car a little crappy after that but started every day.
I have a 2007 Suzuki XL7. About a year ago it started having trouble starting after fueling. Every time you put fuel in the vehicle it would take a few times before it would start. We've had it to several mechanics. They replaced the gas cap and did a few other small things. Nothing worked. We took it to have it diagnosed on the computer 3 different times (twice by the dealer). They only tell us that there is something with the timing sync code. The vehicle now has 190,000 miles on it.
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Recently, it's started to act up more often. As the car warms up and is used more throughout the day it becomes more and more difficult to start. It has also had a few instances where you would get it started and you push on the gas and it won't go. This problem is getting increasingly more frustrating. I've talked to my regular mechanic about these issues and his belief is that it is some sort of fuel issue.
Unfortunately, he is more of a backyard mechanic and doesn't have a computer to diagnose it. I recently took it to yet another mechanic and have gotten the runaround by them. The man there told me he would get me an estimate written up with an explanation of what he feels is wrong with it. It's been two weeks since then and I've called a dozen times with no luck. Mechanics are truly frustrating to me. My friend said, call Car Talk, so here I am...desperately hoping you might have a clue as to what is going on with the vehicle.
Why I'm suddenly having trouble starting my 2010 Prius when cold? I depress the brake and push the start button, but lately, sometimes the car doesn't start. It will start as if I didn't have my foot on the brake and the dash will light up. To get it to start fully I have to depress the brake and hold the start button down for 10-20 seconds. Then it starts.
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I have a 1967 Porsche 912. Today it was being a bit difficult getting fired up. Third time was the charm, but once in gear it had no power at all. The tachometer was around 3.5k in first before it even found the 10mph neighborhood ad took its sweet time to get there when shifting into second the car died. I turned her right around an put her to bed. I am thinking carburetor...
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