Toyota - Corolla :: 1996 - RPMs Fluctuate From High To Low In Regular Intervals
Oct 10, 2013
RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low without me doing anything. It doesn't do it all the time, so far its happened 4-5 times in the past 3 days. I first noticed it when driving, I took my foot off the gas to break and it started doing it and once I hit the gas it stopped. It seems to be getting worse because today I put it in the park and when it should have jumped into idle it started and even when I hit the gas it didn't stop. Like I said the RPMs fluctuate from very high to very low in a few seconds regular intervals.
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1) Why is my neighbor's late model Tundra chirping and flashing the lights at regular (maybe 20 second) intervals?
2) Why can I hear it a house away but my neighbor (at home) cannot?
3) Can I stop it? If it something like hey idiot, you left it unlocked with the keys in the ignition, maybe I can.
4) If I resort to violent methods to stop it, will I be subject to criminal penalties. or would a jury of my peers find it justifiable truckicide?
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I own a 1996 Corolla DX with an auto transmission which has a few issues I would like to fix. The biggest issue is that sometimes it stays stuck at high RPMs (somewhere near 3,100) without changing gears which makes me have to give it some extra torque momentarily to change gear and drive at normal RPMs. But sometimes it does the opposite, when slowing down it sometimes stays at a higher gear and won't change to a lower gear until I've slowed down almost to a stop.
Another issue is that it is very slow to accelerate, it just feels real heavy and I regularly have to give it a lot of torque just to be at equal speed with the rest of the cars on the road, does this have a fix? Other than that there isn't any major issue that I actually know about, for this reason I'd like to know what place you would recommend me taking my car to get a full checkup to find any issues I don't know about.
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Baffled that my well-maintained 05 Corolla couldn't smog today. Smog checker said rpms were too high and it got kicked off the machine six times; said he had replaced his cable today. Manual transmission, 96,000 miles and had oil change last week; 93,000 major service included flush of something.
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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Lately, my 1990 Integra has been idling VERY low. Some mornings, while idling at a stop, the rpms fluctuate up and down to the point where it almost dies. Is it just cold? I live in coastal San Diego, so it's not freezing here. This morning, had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car from stalling before getting home from dropping son off at school. It died in the driveway. Started up just fine right afterwards, but idled down to nothing. Now it idles okay, but at a pretty low rpms, like usual. NOW, the battery, a SEARS Diehard Silver, is near the end of its usable life. Prorated 84,000 mile replacement warranty, but I have had it for 8.5 years and have 1 82,000 miles on it. YES! I have been meaning to replace it, as it is leaking some nasty stuff at the terminals, but wonder if the weird idling is a symptom of something else, since the car still turns over.
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i got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
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I have a 96 Rav4. When I am driving on the freeway it will get stuck at 3000 RPMs for a good 20 miles. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it a lot. The car will only be going 50 mph, but its stuck at high RPMs. The mechanic has no idea what is going on.
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My '96 Toyota Corolla has difficulty going beyond 45 mph on the freeway, especially when the temperature gets down to zero. Normally the car shifts into 3rd gear at 45 mph. Instead it has excessive engine noise. I just keep my foot on the gas, and it goes past 50 mph, but with considerable effort. It sounds like I have the car in 2nd gear when driving at 50 mph. Eventually it "lets go" and shifts to 3rd. There is no CEL on, fuel filter replaced, transmission flushed, spark plugs checked last fall. From other issues I've read, I'm guessing it might be a bad thermostat? The car heats fine. Gas mileage is more than normal. No gas smells when I park. Once the engine warms up, I have no problems with the gears shifting. I had this problem a few years ago. Don't know what my mechanic did to fix it. My budget is pretty tight right now, so if I can fix it myself, I'd really like to do so.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Corolla (5-speed, manual transmission) that has never had any problems until the past month or so. About 80% of the time now, the car does not turn over at all upon turning the key first thing in the morning. The dash light indicators (seat belt, brake, etc) come on, but that's ALL. No sounds come from the engine. I turn the key all the way back to the starting position and immediately try again, and the engine starts right up on the second try, almost every time (a couple times it has taken a third try). It will start the first time the rest of the day.
Three things to note that may or may not be related:
1. About 6 months ago, a large tree branch fell on the hood, causing some damage to both front fenders and some dings in the hood.
2. It seems to mainly occur on mornings following a rainstorm, but I can't be sure that is always the case.
3. My key is the original, and occasionally will not unlock the doors (manual locks) on the first try, but when this happens, the key will not turn at all until I mess with it for a bit.
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My daughter has a 1996 Toyota Corolla that she bought last year from a personal seller who kept impeccable records on everything that was ever done to the car for maintenence, etc. My mechanic ok'd the buy. For the past few months she has been complaining of it slowing down as it warms up.It was doing this at 60mph to start and now at 45mph. It runs perfect when it is cold but once it warms up it's downhill. The mechanic is stumped. There is no code for it. The distributor seems quite new. The fuel pressure is the same when it is acting up or not. Don't know about fuel volume. Tried replacing the map sensor and another sensor that I cannot remember, to no avail. The car has 172000 miles on it. What can be the cause?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe LX with 214,000 miles on it. In general, I am having two problems which are most likely related. I would like to get opinions on what is causing the problems, how to fix the problems, and what the cost might be for the fix. This is an older car and I don't want to bring it to a mechanic to just do searching.
1. RPMs fluctuate quickly at slower speeds in town stop and go traffic and while parking in Drive or Reverse. Fluctuation can be between 1000 to 2000 and 3000 RPMs back and forth.
2. Car stalls while sitting at stops when in Drive. When car stalls, RPMs have suddenly decreased to 0 (zero).
3. RPMs fluctuating and car stalling typically occur after I have made my first stop and have turned off the car.
There is also a Check Engine Light Code: P0304, Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected. I changed the vehicle speed sensor a few months ago.
Here are the details of what has been happening, when it happens, and what I have tried.
- When RPMs fluctuate, the car slowly accelerates and slows down and I can hear revving high and low. This happens when the RPMS fluctuate just a few RPMs around 1000 and when the RPMs are fluctuating up to higher RPMs.
- After the car has been driven for about 45 minutes and car is at slower speeds, RPMs will fall to zero while at stop and in Drive, and the RPM fluctuation will begin.
- RPMs jump to 2000 or 3000 and stay there but do not fluctuate when car is put in Park and Neutral.
- When car is in Park and at 2000 or 3000 RPMs, car takes a few extra seconds to turn off.
- Car accelerates without pressing gas pedal and will accelerate up to 40 mph.
- Car will sometimes lurch at slower speeds of 15, 25, and 35 mph when RPMs are fluctuating or when the gas pedal is pressed.
- When RPMs are fluctuating and at 1000 or higher and I am pressing the brake to slow down, the car fights in Drive and in Reverse.
- RPM fluctuation does not occur at interstate speeds.
- A couple days ago, when I was at interstate speeds of 60 to 75 mph and pressed the gas pedal, the car would stutter and jerk.
- RPM fluctuation and stalling primarily do not occur when the car is started at the beginning of the day or when the car has been off for several hours.
- Twice In the last week the RPM fluctuation and stalling occurred even after car was not started for several hours and after only about 5 to 10 minutes of driving in town stop and go traffic.
- Sometimes car stalls when I'm at a stop and slightly press the gas pedal to start driving.
- There are times in town traffic when the car is operating normally and is at 750 RPMs at stop, then the RPMs suddenly decreased from 750 to 0 (zero) and the car stalls.
- From Neutral, sometimes when I simultaneously put the car in Drive and press the gas pedal either by feathering or forcefully pressing pedal 3/4 to the floor, the car would have a delayed reaction to accelerate but would not shut off.
- After car has stalled, if I try to start it right away, the car cranks but does not start for about 5 minutes.
- The time between stalling and being able to get the car to turn back on has increased over time from starting up at first crank to not starting for 5 minutes.
- If I let the car sit for 3 to 5 minutes after it has stalled, the car starts up but takes a couple seconds to start while pumping the gas pedal.
- Issues have been happening since November but are getting more frequent.
- Stalling is happening more frequently and within minutes of each other.
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A few weeks ago, my 09 Sonata V6 starting fluctuating (slightly) abnormally when starting from a cold start. I attributed this to the cold snap (25F mornings down from 40's). To be safe I used a fuel system cleaner at the next fill up.
When the issue didn't immediately go away, I was a little concerned, but extremely busy with work. After 2 weeks of needing to start the car and let it warm up for 10 minutes... things got a lot worse.
RPMs started fluctuating between 2500 and 500. Rev, choke, rev, choke. I got it to the dealer... but it had of course warmed up. Another thread had a similar issue, so I checked for and got an ECM update, reset the adaptive memory, and had the (just due) transmission flush.
No change. The next night, I parked the car in the dealer's lot and let them start it. I suspected the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) but wanted the dealership to independently confirm. The head mechanic definitely noticed it, confirmed with me, and replaced the TPS, did a carbon cleanout and oil change. So far, 2 weeks later, no issues.
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My 1998 Honda Civic DX's RPMs are fluctuating during idle. I start the car and it is normal for about two seconds. I am assuming around 800 rpms (I don't have a tachometer). Then it jumps drastically higher, then lower, then higher, etc. Earlier tonight I replaced the throttle body gasket, replaced the spark plug wires, and cleaned the fuel injector cleaners. I took off several things in the process. I think the problem originates from taking apart the throttle body - not the other replaced parts. I have a manual 2-door 1998 Honda Civic DX with a 1.6L engine (D16Y7 engine to be exact).
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So I have a 2.0 jetta and I'm having this problem where my rpms fluctuate at idle and sometimes the car dies unless I give it gas.but when I'm driving if I'm not in gear and stop it sometimes dies.
I'm getting 5 codes : P0445, P0135, P0037, P0418, P1473
I checked all my grounds I changed the 02 sensor on the manifold checked for cut wires and nothing ...
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I'm new to owning a Toyota. I just financed a 2010 black Toyota corolla S with 36 miles on it from a local dealership after i decided my last car was pretty much a money pit (2001 expedition)...blew the head gaskets, then after that was fixed developed a bad knock...anyhow i just decided i was overdue for a new car. Its a 5 speed manual and at highway speeds (65-70mph) I've noticed the rpms are bit high...like around 3grand. Is that normal? Just seemed really high to me, I really think this car would do great with a 6 speed. Also is the corolla governed? I was on a long stretch of road and i quickly got to 110ish with no sign of a governor kicking in...?
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem.I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons.Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue.It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning"
Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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I have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
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About a month ago I went to get into my car and it would not start. It tried to but after testing things with my neighbor there didn't seem to be consistent spark. So I bought a new distributor. Got it installed and the car worked great. Then after about a week we had a heavy rain while I was driving. The car shut off and wouldn't start. After the rain was over for about an hour I went to look over the car and it started. I thought with the heavy rain something got wet. Then things really went down hill. A day or so later when I went to start the car it didn't want to start and when it did it would misfire. Later that day the car started fine but would only run right if the engine was warmed up.
I tried covering the car completely with a tarp, no change. My cousin who is a skilled mechanic said he was pretty sure that the issue was the new distributor. So I got a used one, not wanting to pay another large amount again. Put that in the car and no change. So I pulled the plugs on the car. Plugs 1 and 4 had a heavy carbon build up on the tips with pitting in the carbon. I had had them replaced, with the wires back in October. So I replaced the plugs and coated the wires in liquid electrical tape. Car started fine like it does in the afternoons. Nest day it was raining and I went to see what the car would do. It started! I drove it that day with no issue at all. The next day I went to start the car thinking my issues where over. The issue has returned. I changed out the plugs with new ones that night. Car started fine that night. Next day the car is still not wanting to start and misfires when it does. It has been damp but covering it doesn't change anything.
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I own a 1996 Toyota Corolla Manuel Transmission. Im currently experiencing an i idling issue. When i first start the car everything is pretty much ok. Until it finally heats up and reaches normal temperature. After that it boggs really low almost wanting to stall out. When I'm driving i have no issues it drives smoothly and shifts fine. This is a list of everything i have done so far:
Vacuum line cleaning
Throttle body and EGR valve cleaning as well as checked for cracks (After I cleaned this it seemed to work a little)
Tune up (wires, plugs, cap, rotor,)Changed the fuel filter
Ran lucas fuel injector cleaner
Cleaned the IAC
Not really sure what else to do.
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Noticed that when you first start the car it makes a very strange noise? Almost as if the motor was running dry for a few seconds and the rpms fluctuate a little... Is that normal? I've only recently owned my camry and was just curious. 2.5L motor.
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