Toyota - Corolla :: 2006 - Intermittent Rattle Appear When Rev The Engine At Certain RPM
Mar 3, 2013
The rattle appears as I rev the engine at a certain RPM. It happens in every gear. I had the car jacked up and the heat shields checked today when I had my tires rotated. Unfortunately for me my 2006 Toyota Corolla was NOT doing this when I was at the tire shop. I opened the hood and the sound is NOT coming from the engine. It sounds like it is coming from the middle of the car, or maybe the passenger side. I am stumped. I did all the maintenance on the car and everything.
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I have a 2006 Corolla LE with about 93,600 miles.
It was about 16 degrees Fahrenheit this morning and I drove on a cold start, and noticed the engine knock a bit when idling. Later noticed check engine light come on. After the car fully warmed up, 15 minutes later, the knocking seemed to subside.
I don't think I've replaced the spark plugs in the longest time, so could it be this issue?
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I have a 2008 Rav 4. 86000 miles and serviced vigilantly. Before the warranty ran out it had a problem that no one could diagnose so now it's out of warranty and the problem is a lot worse, still no one has a definite diagnosis. What the problem could be.The rattle was very intermittent at 40mph going up a slight hill. If I took my foot off the accelerator and put it back on the noise went away. Now it is rattling quite a bit and not just at 40mph. I can still have it stop for a bit by taking my foot off the accelerator and putting it back on. My mechanic told me to try driving in 3rd gear. It has not rattled in 3rd gear yet. Toyota mechanic of 29years has never heard this noise before and neither has my mechanic so it is an unusual one. Toyota wants to do a transmission flush 3 times and then if that doesn't fix it will put in a new transmission. My mechanic thinks it is the transfer case. No one knows for sure.
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The check-engine light on my 2006 Toyota Corolla came on a couple of weeks ago after I started the car on a 7-degree F morning. Code was P-0171. Mechanic cleaned the MAF and the light went off. Light stayed off 'til I started the car on another 7-degree F morning. Mechanic said that the MAF didn't look dirty, and the readings didn't change after cleaning. No vacuum leaks. O2 sensors responding normally. What's going on? I travel a lot in this car, so I don't want to damage the car by ignoring the check-engine light.
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I have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
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330,000 km on car. I drove 45 minutes when battery light came on on and car engine stalled when making a left turn (fuel light had just come on too but not empty) and restarted on own, drove 10 minutes and it stalled again, so I pulled over and restarted. Drove 45 minutes home. No issues since. Shop says 10 year old battery and alternator are testing fine, though they suggest replacing alternator as it may be going. Could there be other electrical issue since the issue is more intermittent? Car would not stall immediately if alternator failing I would think - should run on battery for a bit and not restart. Drive maybe 400km per month and it sits for 10 days at a time.
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My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
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2009 Matrix 2ZR-FE, briefly rattles on restart after sitting for one hour after reaching running temp. This engine doesn't rattle on a cold startup so I'm wondering what else other than the intake cam gear could cause this. 42,000 miles, 5-20 dino, regular service.
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I finally caught my engine rattle on audio. Give a listen and tell me what you think this is: [URL] .....
There's a TSB about a rattle on a cold start, but mine never rattles when it's cold. This always happens on a warm restart -- usually about 45 to 75 minutes after I've parked it.
It's been doing this for at least a year, but I've had trouble catching it in the act and, of course, the dealer can't reproduce it. I currently have 37k miles on it. Oil changes completed at 1k, 5k and every 5k after. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 since the second change.
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It appears I have stumped my mechanic. My '06 Toyota Sienna with 78k miles started making a rattle noise (my toddler says he hears a helicopter) every time I take my foot off the gas. It is most obvious between 25-60mph. The sound continues when the brake is depressed, but stops once the brake is fully engaged. My mechanic doesn't know what is making the noise, but suspects something inside the transmission, and wants to replace the transmission (which is $5600 I'd rather avoid spending if possible). 78k miles is pretty young for a new transmission, especially on a Toyota, right? Where to look next?
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I have a 2006 2WD V6 Tacoma Pre Runner with 42,000 miles. The truck runs great, but has an annoying noise problem. After I drive the truck about 10 minutes, and slow down to stop or turn, I hear an odd noise that sounds like a rattle and grinding sound mixed together. It is a brief noise and goes away once I increase my speed above 20mph. Sometimes I hear the noise briefly after stopping and increasing the engine RPM. I checked the rear brakes and they are fine, I changed the differential fluid, there are no leaks. I inspected the exhaust system and it seems fine, Using a rubber mallet, I pounded on the cats and muffler and I hear very little noise. What is causing this problem.
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I have 2006 Toyota Corolla XRS, and I can't get it to start. Last week I tried to start my car, it just turned over and wouldn't fire. I left it for a couple days, and didn't try anything. I thought the fuel line might of been frozen, because I do live in Canada. This afternoon it warmed up, so I decided to try it out. It started the first try, no problem. I drove straight to the gas station, and bought some methyl hydrate to put in the tank. I drove around a bunch that day to mix it in. After leaving it for a few hours I went and tried to start my car, and it's doing the exact same thing again. Not sure what to do here.
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In my '06 Corolla I have a 1000w Kicker DX1000.1 amp to power my subs... When I am jammin' my lights dim and I know it is because my car cannot put out enough power. If I upgrade my measly stock alternator (80 amp) to a high output alternator (~200amp) will I have any problems? Will amps kill my cars electrical system or is it volts that wreck it?
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I have a 2006 Corolla w/ 136K miles and a 2008 Versa w/ 81K. I'm looking to replace one of them, but am unsure which I should keep. The Corolla has been very reliable but is starting to need a lot of work (brakes/struts/etc.) and the Versa has been ok but overall has needed more maintenance.
Whichever one I keep I will probably drive until it's dead but I really don't know which I should stick with. My instinct tells me it should be the Corolla, but I don't want to keep having to sink money into a high milage vehicle. On the flip-side, I have never heard people speaking well of the Versa, and keeping it might end up costing me more and lasting a shorter time.
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My 2006 would not start today after I got gas. I drove the car for an hour with no problems. I then stopped to get gas it would not start. I knew the engine was still warm because i had just stopped after driving for an hour. yet the temp gauge read cold. After a while of trying to start the car with it only cranking, not turning over I waited. After waiting a while the temp gauge started to work again showing a warm engine. The engine was also warm to the touch. I tried to start the car once the temp Gauge worked again and the car turned over with no problems and little effort.
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Today I turned on my car and heard a sound like water flowing down a pipe, then I started to feel the car getting warm, but no hot air coming from the vent. I felt the dash board and it felt very warm, and very warm air coming from the dashboard vent.What could cause this to happen? Its a 2006 toyota corolla LE.
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I went in today for a factor recall on my 2006 Toyota Corolla and when I was leaving I was told that my car needs to have the timing cover resealed. Additionally, the Drive belt is cracked and it was recommended to me to get a new belt. My air filter is dirty, I need manual transmission service, Fuel injection service, Fuel induction service and an AC refresh.
Being a college student I wanted to get some feedback on some of the stuff I could do myself. I already change my own motor oil and oil filter and anything I could do myself from the above recommendations from Toyota would really lower the cost.
Also I am not really sure about the timing cover reseal because I have not seen any leaks under my car. It may be that I do not understand what a timing cover leak is. And is this something that I should get fixed right away or can i afford to wait for a while (1 year or longer).
Also what is the difference between a fuel induction service and fuel injection service? Can i do it myself?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 183,000 miles on it. My mechanic noticed that the right front strut was leaking oil. In addition to replacing it recommended getting a strut mount installed as well. Is this an necessary component at the age of my car or can just replacing the strut do the trick?
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2008 Tundra 5.7 only 55K miles – What is causing an intermittent misfire at startup? It’s been running great, then 2 weeks ago when I started it up I could feel a misfire. By the time I backed out of the driveway the check engine light came on. This is what I have learned so far:
•It only happens when you start the engine and the engine is NOT at operating temperature.
•The engine code always reports misfire on Cylinder #2 I put in a new plug and swapped coils but it still reports the misfire on cylinder #2.
•Once it starts to misfire it will continue to misfire until the engine is at operating temperature and you restart the engine. NOTE: You MUST restart the engine for the misfire to go away. It will be running rough, turn engine off/on once it is at operating temperature and it's as smooth as can be, no more misfire.
•One time I started the truck, I felt the misfire and drove it to a parts store to read the code. Engine was fully warm by the time I reached the parts store. I did not power off the engine, plugged in the tester and read the code which was a misfire on cylinder 2. I cleared the code and within 2-3 seconds it logged the misfire on cylinder #2 again. Cleared the code several times and it kept reporting misfire on cylinder 2. You could also feel the misfire happening. Turned engine off, started it right back up, like before no misfire, cleared the code and it no longer reported a misfire.
•This just started intermittently happening. This morning it happened again, I drove it for about 5 min, engine was about 75% it’s normal operating temperature, powered it off/on, still had the misfire. Once engine temp reached normal temp (about 9 min), I turned off engine, started it back and like before problem was gone.
What is causing this to happen?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla. There are two plastic covers on the undercarriage of the vehicle in the front.. The front driver's side is loose; the oil change told me the little clips are broken and they used a "strap" to hook it back up. Well, on the Fla turnpike, the strap lasted about 30 minutes
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My 2006 Toyota Corolla will suddenly decelerate for a period of 3 to 5 seconds. No warning lights come on and the engine does not cut out. This has been happening sporadically for about 2 years. It will occur 2 ot 3 times in a day of driving. The dealership says they cannot diagnose the problem since they can't duplicate it. The ECM was replaced several months ago. The car has 120000 miles on it. I just got a new battery and transmission fluid.
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