Toyota - Gasoline - Mechanics - Corolla :: Stalled At Stop Sign And Wouldn't Start / Fuel Compression Module Bad?
Mar 17, 2011
I have a 2005 Corolla with 78,000 miles. The other day it stalled at a stop sign and wouldn't start. I got it towed to the repair shop and they called me the next day with the following:
1. Under the back seat is a fuel compression module. This has gone bad. They need to take out the seat, order the part, install new.
2. The belt that drives the accessories motor (or something like that, don't recall the exact phrasing) is worn, cracking, and probably going to break. Needs replacing. Battery is corroding and needs replacing.
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I have a 1995 Corolla which is facing misfire issue and randomly turn off at stop sign the code I am getting is 26 which is rich fuel ratio. I have changed the O2 sensor car has new spark plugs and spark plug wires both NGK. the problem started when I installed the new distributor. one of the member here had the same problem.
Here is the person who had the same problem: [URL] .....
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Yesterday I took my 2006 Toyota Corolla for an oil change at this small shop. As I drove away I heard a different slight sound coming from the engine, but I thought it could not be possible, since I had just left the mechanic and I had no previous issues with my car. I stopped at a store for about 15 minutes, then I drove a couple more miles when, suddenly, all of the engine lights turned on, the car felt weak and died. I checked the oil and it was totally dry, not even a drop to wet the napkin I used. I called the mechanic, he came over and added oil and an oil filter.
He claimed that the filter burst, is that even possible? Since I hear a strange sound the moment I left his shop, I tend to believe that he failed to put it in. What do you think?The main problem now is that my car engine is making this kind of click clack sound. I called the owner of the shop, who is the brother of the mechanic that worked on my car and I told him that I am taking my car to be diagnosed at Toyota today. If there is damage to the engine, which it sounds like, how can I get these guys to pay for it?Is it safe to drive my car like this?I am very dismayed at the whole situation and really stressed. I need this car to last me another good 5 to 6 years. I am the original owner. How to handle this case and the possible mechanical issues at hand now and down the road.
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So this morning on my way to work its pouring. Drive 30 min and while slowing down at the last stop sign the car stalls. Car wont start anymore. Not even trying to turnover. Damn TB must have snapped.
So I ended up pushing the car into my works parking lot. Luckily rain stopped by lunch time. I popped open the driver side TB cover just enough to see if the belt. The belt did not seem to have snapped. I was able to push down on it with some force. There was definitely tension on it. So I ask my buddy to try and start it. I could see the belt turning. Tried a second time to start and this time I would even hear the starter. all it would do is a clicking sound.
Is it possible the belt is really broken? I'm now thinking it might have jumped a tooth or something and now all my valves are bent. Car has 140k km. Previous owner said it was changed but could not provide any proof. I guess my question: is there anything else that would cause TB Failure symptoms. I mean the car stalled out. How could it not be the TB...
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The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
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My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
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My husband drives a 97 Toyota Corolla. Great little car with one problem, it stinks. It smells like gasoline after its started. I never smell it from inside the car, just after its run when I exit the car. Took to a mechanic.... they couldn't find a leak and of course they didn't smell anything. He told me the LEFT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL needs to be replaced but wasn't very positive that had anything to do with the gasoline smell. He only suggested replacing the gas cap, again, not with much confidence. Should I take it back, take somewhere else, anyway of narrowing down the possible leak areas myself or other suggested areas for them to look for the leak???
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I just bought a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder with 150K miles. It drove great for a week. Now it wants to cut off when I'm at a stoplight or stop sign. When I press the gas there is no acceleration and very sluggish. This is when it wants to cut off and does about half the time. At normal driving speeds it drives great. The Check engine light also came on. Advance Auto Parts store read the codes and it's P440, p441, p446 and P106. All have to do with evaporative emission control.
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I have a 22R sitting in my celica and my problem is that when I was driving home from school I stopped at a stop sign..... Well I started to take off from the stop sign and as I did Spark plug three blew out of the cylinder... (WTF) well anyways I started it back up and drove it 2 blocks to where I live and it backfired and now I have no spark to any of my wires or spark plugs I checked the Main Engine Relay works just fine, For fuel problems anyways.. other than that I believe my timing skipped during that bad backfire so Woohoo for that but any other problems that could have caused "no spark" like my igniter blew out or my coil.. I would like to know where the fuse is (if any) for the igniter.
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When starting the car (2002 Toyota Camry XLE) with 114k miles, I noticed that I can gasoline. I also have a rare intermittent stalling when brake & come to a stop. Earlier post: [URL] ....
What could cause the smell of gasoline when I start my car? Is this something that needs to be fixed or can it be ignored? Would this be something that could cause intermittent stalling when braking? After the stall happens, I'm unable to immediately start the car but it starts normally after 15 minutes. Is this the result of some flooding by the gasoline?
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this morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
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I'm trying to diagnose the problem with my friend's 1994 crown Vic police interceptor. It dies at stop signs and then won't start back up till after waiting like 5-10 minutes. I asked him if his check engine light is on. He said yes, so I looked up how to retrieve the codes with a jumper wire as I have on older vehicles of my own. I found that information but can't locate the terminal. He said other symptoms are poor fuel economy and sluggish performance. My friend is so busy and pinched for cash he's been driving like this for over a year.
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I have gotten a STOP Brake Fault Service Manual warning sign on my car for a couple days and now my car wont start... no ABS light is on...
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About 2 months ago I started having a problem starting my car. It would crank and crank but wouldn't start. Eventually it would start but threw a code for the camshaft position sensor. I figured I'd go ahead and replaced it. Still had the same issue after about a week without problems, except this time the crankshaft position sensor code.
I maintain my car very well, and it just recently passed 45k miles. It's a 2010 Corolla S.
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I have a 2001 Lincoln LS V8 that runs rich and no one can solve the problem that's been going on for close to a year. The fuel sys pressure tests fine. The fuel regulator sensor has been replaced. First start in morning is normal but after that I need to give it gas to get it to turn over. Also, car has a fuel smell.
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I just changed the fuel pump on my 98 Isuzu Rodeo and now it wont start. The pump is getting power because i can hear it humming. Fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I checked the the shrader valve. I tested the battery and its fully charged but it wont start.
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I have a 97 Geo Metro two door that just stalled on me one day driving up a hill. It was low on fuel and so I thought it might have just ran out of fuel. I put more fuel in it but it would not start. I had it towed back home and disconnected the hose out of the fuel pump to see if any fuel would spray out. It did not. This lead me to conclude the fuel pump is bad. I replaced the fuel pump but this still did not fix the problem. I had an electrical guy looking at it run a bypass wire to the fuel pump and it still did not work. His conclusion was that the ECM is bad. Does this sound like a logical conclusion?
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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I know this has been an issue for awhile and many may know about it but many probably don't. The issue is dirt and salt debri etc get packed behind the Fuel pump driver module rot it out and without warning you have a crank no start or worse it dies going down the road then you and the family are stranded or worse while towing on a trip. I made a video on how it happens and how to fix it with the solution Ford came up with. It is worth checking even if you don't seem to be having any issues yet......
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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My 09 Corolla makes a groaning sound when I stop....sometimes. I have had the front brakes replaced and the rear cleaned but it still makes that sound...
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