I was on highway and suddenly my 06 highlander hybride stalled and i saw the msg as "Hybride failed"and "VCF failed, I towed my car to dealer and staying in Motel, why this happen and how should I deal with Toyota, I am stuck on the road 400 miles away from home.
View 30 RepliesI just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
View 4 RepliesDriving a 2007 toyota highlander hybrid? this car has done well until just this last year. I think the auxiliary 12 volt battery and rest of engine has issues. I replaced the 12v battery in 2012 so it's still good, but when I go out of town for over 7 days and the car isn't started, it is dead when i return. So I charge it up but then the car won't move when started and put into gear. It acts as if a wheel lock is on it. I got a hold of an innovus code scanner and no codes appear. I don't know what to do. I have come across some posts on other forums where owners did have battery issues with these cars, not the fault of the 12v battery but just the car and how it's built, vis a vis the 12v batt. I had the ipm (inverter component) replaced on recall in march of this year. the above issue with the battery had just begun a month prior, so i thought that following the recall all would be well. but it isn't...
View 10 RepliesCar wouldn't start, electric came on but it wouldn't turn over. Towed it to Toyota Dealer. Trouble reported in window was "Check Hybrid System" and " Check CVS? and one other but don't remember. After leaving the dealer and arriving home, I had a call advising me that there was water in the hybrid battery to the tune of $6K. Manager told me that the car had to have passed through standing water or water rose to level where batteries were contaminated. Don't know of any flooded areas around here and no evidence of water on the carpet so how does water get into the batteries. Manager advised me to call insurance company to have them pay for it. Nothing surprises me today but how does water get into the system without flooding the car?
View 1 RepliesNoticed some pinkish water yesterday, but thought it was water from some puddles on the tires. Today noticed no heat in the car this am. Got home and noticed more pink fluid on the floor. Looked under car, no other area other than near muffler. Pretty evident leak. Same color as both inverter and engine coolant. It has 94k miles. Cant find leaks of any kind anywhere else. What do you all think?
View 6 RepliesJust purchased a used 2008 HH - about 85000 miles. Seems to work perfectly except there is a very loud hum that sounds that it is coming from the rear. Starts to be noticeable at 30 MPH and gets louder up to about 55, and then isn't as noticeable, perhaps due to normal road noise.
View 2 RepliesI read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
I am new to this group but have been reading the posts for the past three months. I recently picked up my Camry Hybrid. So far all is going well expect my ability to pair my Treo 650 to the hands free function in the car. I know how to pair other others to the phone. It looks like the phone picks up the device. After entering the code and clicking ok the phone appears to be fine. The speaker in the car to pair my Treo 650 to the hands free function in the carsomething like still searching. Then it says the search has failed.
I checked the software version and it says Trea650 - 1.04a-VZW. I am on Verizon.
Inserted updated nav disc as directed in nav disc slot, closed door. Now the disc is stuck in the scan-disc mode and the load/eject button doesn't work on it. Wondering if there is a way to force eject the disc or other way to unstick it. You can hear the disc 'whirring' briefly as if it is trying to eject, but is stuck. It does this over and over. That's the only sound; none of the other buttons are responsive.
View 1 RepliesMy year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
Wife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
View 11 RepliesMy Prius just stalled out on highway from cruise control @ 65 mph, so I coasted luckily off an exit, and before coming to complete stop the whole dash went black with exception of power steering failure warning light. I had it towed, at my cost of $95, to dealer for troubleshooting. They found that the fuel sensing system/indicator had worn, and cost for repair is $422+, as not under any warranty or recall. Fuel sense indicator worn out @ 105,145 miles...
View 12 RepliesMy 2010 Prius with 205,000 miles, has hybrid system warning, and the dealer has reported that the hybrid battery needs to be replaced, there is a prob with one module but they do not repair the batteries only total battery replacement. Also needs front brakes and tune up. I did not expect the hybrid battery failure on this 2010 Prius since my 2008 Prius (184,000miles) had no issues thus far with the battery. Both cars are every day drive cars. Both cars have been really dependable and only routine maintenance.
I had no issues with the hybrid battery until after my last service when their was some factory recall having to do with the cars computer system, and routine oil change. The car stalled out the next day, but then restarted, this was odd it felt like the car was running but would not go into gear nor respond to the gas pedal, I'm calling it a stall, I'm not sure if this is correct terminology. So, it did this a couple of times the day after service, I was shocked but I just killed the car and restarted no other issues for about 3 weeks. Then I got the hybrid system warning on the computer screen on the dashboard, UGH.
I never expected my newer 2010 Prius to have a hybrid battery failure before my 2008 older Prius.
I'm looking for options with Prius over 200,000 miles. Both have been maintained through dealer services. Dealer reports the 2010 Prius with this issue is worth 1000.00 . I'm at a loss I really want to keep the car, but now I'm unsure, and obviously think it's worth more than 1000.00.
Today, for the first time, my 2007 CRV suddenly failed to respond to an acceleration attempt after I had to suddenly press on the brake on a highway. Both meters seemed to respond and moved in some way but the car was either non-responsive or was slowing down. It all took 30-60 seconds until the car went back to normal on its own without even stopping. What could have caused it? Normally, I would probably wait until it happens again to start worrying but since I drive with my child most of the time, I don't want to take any chances.
View 9 RepliesMy '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
View 8 RepliesI currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
About a year ago our headlights were getting dim . Our dealer referred us to a company that had a process to polish the lights and restore their brightness. Now after a year or so the lights are again cloudy and need attention. I purchased a kit but haven't tried it yet because of winter in Wisconsin.
I've also read that toothpaste can be used to clean and polish the lens on headlights.
Yesterday was driving my 2008 Prius (75K) down a paved road from a ski-hill (no snow/rain, perfect weather and completely dry road). Not hard driving, 20-30 mph some curves, very smooth road with no potholes, etc. Battery turned all green, its fan initiated and I also rolled back window during this 75 degF day (not unusual to have battery fan turn on in this condition, it's occured plenty of time before). Wasn't braking hard either. Out of know where, I first noticed upon slightly accelerating that I had no acceleration, like the hybrid had disengaged from the ICE, and then check engine, (!), red triangle, VSC light!! At this point, couldn't tell if car was on or off, the wheels disappeared from the main display, although the ICE/electric motors continued to show although there was a red warning top left corner.
It did scare the hell out of me going downhill with curves wondering if I was really still in control of the car. I pulled over as soon as I could maybe 1/2 mile downhill. I then shut car off, waiting maybe 1 minute, turned back on. The VSC cleared I believe, but all other lights continued on. Next, I only knew to drive it to the Toyota dealership. It was odd, as the Prius was now in some sort of weird, pseudo on-state. It had virtually no acceleration, maybe 40 mph after 1 mile and that was it. Drove it maybe 8 miles like this thru town in this pseudo on-state. Pulled into dealership. They pulled codes and found P0A1D-HYBRID POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE INFO 1 AND P3000-BATTERY CONTROL SYSTEM. They stated vehicle was found with problem with hybrid control ECU. They cleared the codes and test drove with no issue repeated. That's it. If it comes back I'm told I will need to replace hybrid control ECU.