Toyota - Rav4 :: Power Outlet Not Working / Chargers Overheating
Feb 4, 2013
I have a 2011 Rav4, a couple of months ago I noticed I had a hard time getting one of my chargers to work. I thought it was the charger itself, so I bought a new one, that did the same thing, so I thought that maybe it was the weight of two usb cords plugged into the dual charger, then the single started doing it. Then one day I noticed a burning smell and realized it was coming from the outlet, I thought it was the charger, but when I put another charger in the next day it did the same thing. Now I can only get either of my chargers to work for a few minutes. It's still under warranty, so I'm sure I could take it in, and will do before the next long trip, but I'm just not sure what's going on...
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I have a 2002 Toyota Rav 4 which just hit about 58,000 miles. Never really had too many problems until about a week ago. For a while, one of the brake lights wasn't working and just a few days ago, both of them went out. The regular tail-lights work as do the reverse lights, just not the brake lights.
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I'm worried about my beloved 02 Toyota Rav4. She's been a great car, we've driven all over the continent, never had a mechanical problem. Lately, particularly on humid days, my cruise control will stop working mid-trip and at the same time the RPMs start running high, nearly twice what they usually are. It lasts until I get home, next time I start her she's fine. The guys at the shop never find anything. The engine control module was replaced last year under an "extended warranty."
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I have a 2002 Rav4, no key fob, just use a regular key. The driver's side door started to have unlocking issues and finally wouldn't unlock at all. The other two outside locks - passenger side and back door - were fine and were the only way I was getting into my car for a couple of weeks. Repair shop pulled the driver's side lock, pulled out the non-functioning tumbler, and had it replaced and re-keyed at a lock shop. Got the car back and driver's side door was working great, but that very day, I all-of-a-sudden couldn't unlock the passenger or the back door from the outside using the key (both will lock from the outside using the key). The shop (which I've been going to for a long time) thinks it is just a coincidence that both the other locks stopped working right after fixing the driver's side door, but that makes no sense to me. Is there anything in the driver's side door that could have been disturbed and is now preventing both the other doors from being unlocked from the outside? The repair shop solution is to just pull the other two locks and do the same thing as the driver's side door - pull any bad tumblers and re-key. I just cannot believe that this is a coincidence.
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the outlet in the dash is not working but the one in the arm rest is where is the fuse panel for the inside connection?
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Maybe I have a blown fuse? My c is only 4 weeks old but sometimes I use the 12v outlet to inflate my tires, other times charge my iPhone. How can I check it my fuses are blown or not?
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I have 2011 Tiguan and not a single one of the outlets (the ones you plug your phone charger into) are working in it. I figure it is problem a fuse, but which one? I can't find a diagram anywhere for the Tiguan fuse box.
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So the 12V power outlet (the one up front by ashtray) in my MK4 Jetta is not working anymore. There was a penny stuck in there and my dumb friend tried ramming his phone charging in anyways and it sparked and now won't work even though I got the penny out. I already checked and replaced fuse 41 and it did not do anything or look blown. Now, the fuse area is looks pretty gross and I'm going to remove it and clean it, but do you think there's maybe a short or something to do with ground since it sparked like that?
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The 12 V power outlet on my 2009 Corolla has quit working. Checked the fuse and it is not blown still no adapter works when plugged into the socket. The car just turned over 36,000 so it's now out of warranty (good thing the water pump failed at 32,000). The owners manual only shows fuses in the engine compartment is a separate fuse block for the dash that could be blown or perhaps a disconnected socket or wiring problem. How to access the back of the 12 V power socket? BTW my dealer has informed me that since my cars VIN begins with J it is not affected by the gas pedal recall. Haven't seen this anywhere so thought I'd share it.
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The power outlet in the tray under the front console in my wife's '08 RX400h has stopped working. I checked all three power outlet fuses indicated in the owner's manual and all are good (75 and 76 in the driver's side instrument panel fuse box and number 21 in the engine compartment (type B) fuse panel). Do I need to start ripping out the tray under the front console to find the problem?
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I have bought a 2007 Elantra recently, and I have noticed that power outlet/ lighter is not working. I have checked the fuse but it is ok. I have to access the back of the power outlet to check the cables but I do not know how can I do it. How can I access the back of the power outlet step by step. Looking for some pictures or videos ....
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When I plug up my phone and charger cord to either power outlet on my 2009 Camry the fuse blows. The charger cord and phone works in my other vehicles. I have checked other power cords in the Camry and it also blows the fuses. Would this be a relay that controls the fuses?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Rav 4 Sport with 160,000 miles. I take good care of it, as it does me. All of a sudden, while driving on CA freeway, it seemed to slip out of gear into neutral--no power when accelerator pressed to the floor. The power came back quickly, but this happened again the next day, with no apparent cause. I took it to my mechanic and, as I drove the surface streets, there was a knocking sound.
My mechanic said the initial problem was a transmission issue and referred me to another mechanic. And, he said the knocking may be a thrown rod(?). The second mechanic confirmed the first guy's transmission assessment (he's a transmission specialist, so of course, he'd see a transmission issue) and said he'd need to fix that before addressing the knocking. And, he said to fix the transmission (including replacing the computer that drives the tranny).
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I have a '00 RAV4 I bought from my Mother. It was having loss of engine power and it would stall while driving and then turn off while driving. The car was taken to 4 mechanics, non could figure it out changed the sensor air fuel ....worked then did it again sent to the Toyota dealer changed the same part ....the problem seemed to be fixed....I've had for a couple of weeks and the problem came back...what I notice was a low idle, loss of power....then the car started stalling while driving, the rpm idle dropped to 0 and car shut down took to mechanic said the throttle body was dirty . They cleaned it they said that it fixed the problem ....2 weeks later it happens again to 2x .....I don't know what to do ...
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Is it possible to rewire the front power outlet so that it shuts off when I turn off the car or remove the key.
All the new cell phone chargers light up and stay lit up when the car is off because the socket is always powered. It bugs me, though, and I'm getting sick of unplugging the charger every time I shut off the car.
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The lower 12v outlet just stopped working in my 04 RX 330. Will a single fuse controls this lower outlet as everything else is working. It is the outlet in the tray that site on the floor below the shifter. If not a single fuse then what will be the issue and what was the fix.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Rav4 all wheel drive that has 80,000 miles on it. It's been having a lot of problems lately, namely the water pump. I got it replaced at our local mechanic's about 3 weeks ago and all was fine until I tried to turn on the heat last night. Only cold air blew out and then came on intermittently and then just stopped again. The fan works fine, it's just not blowing hot air. Not sure if this is related to the water pump being replaced? Do I need to flush the heater core? There is no leakage. I am really getting annoyed with all the issues the car has been having lately and don't want to spend a lot more money to fix it at this point. How much would it be to replace the heater core?
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My 2004 toyota rav4, manual transmission, 70,000 miles has been problem free. Now when i turn the key , nothing, no sound , dead. sometimes the 2nd or 3rd try 'it'll start right up, and run like nothing's wrong. other times will not start at all. 2 hrs later , try it and starts right up,. the battery has been replaced and it changed nothing. The mechanics are stumped and say they can't do anything till the problem repeats itself, and it starts fine, at their garage. I've been stranded and don't want that to happen again. What's wrong? The clutch switch?
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Noticed radio LCD getting distorted. Today my LCD just went wacko, does not show the station number but some square marks and slightly visible compact disks numbers.
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I bought Toyota rav4 2007, 3 months ago ,and last week the engine lights and vsc,4wd came on ,then after 1oo of miles driven ,didn't do anything went off and it was on yesterday, I had to go three different places stopped and started , I filled up the tank the lights were still on ,and today, I started the car went off again ,I stopped couple of times, still good,(the car runs perfectly, i don't notice any malfunctioning ).
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I just bought a rav4 and I have 3 small places where the paint is chipped down to the primer. I have never had this problem with any of my other cars. Shouldn't this paint last more than a few weeks?
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