Toyota - Sienna :: 2006 - Airbag Light On
Sep 9, 2011
I looked up the service history of a Sienna 2006 (have been planing to buy the minivan) and found that it had a few incidents with AIR BAG ON. When I initially searched for 2006 Sienna I mostly hit the door latch problems. Looks like the airbag issue has been reported on several blogs and there is no recall yet on this issue.
My question is, if I buy extended warranty, whether this would cover the repair cost or not. Or, should I stay away from 2006 Siennas? If so, which models/years should I avoid?
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Water is leaking into my Sienna van from the side curtain airbag emblem. I called Toyota and was told they've never encountered this issue.
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My airbag light came on in my 2006 Tacoma, had it fixed, as my dealer told me:
1. It would not deploy during a accident.
2. Could not get a inspection sticker.
3. It was not covered by my warranty.
4. It was diagnosed as a faulty spiral cable.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna with approx 64K miles. Recently, I am hearing a squealing noise when the AC clutch engages (AC is working fine and blows very cold air). When AC is off for when the clutch is not engaged - no noise at all..... I have been getting alot of different answers as to what it could be and it is very confusing.... to me - it sounds like a clutch issue and I have seen videos on how to take apart and see if it is a bearing or bad clutch. I did pull the belt and checked the pulley - it turns freely and there is no bearing movement. How I can go about getting it repaired without replacing the entire compressor and other expensive parts.
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Has an underlying problem to the tire wear on AWD drive 2006 Sienna's run flats been identified?
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It appears I have stumped my mechanic. My '06 Toyota Sienna with 78k miles started making a rattle noise (my toddler says he hears a helicopter) every time I take my foot off the gas. It is most obvious between 25-60mph. The sound continues when the brake is depressed, but stops once the brake is fully engaged. My mechanic doesn't know what is making the noise, but suspects something inside the transmission, and wants to replace the transmission (which is $5600 I'd rather avoid spending if possible). 78k miles is pretty young for a new transmission, especially on a Toyota, right? Where to look next?
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I have a problem and I'm not sure to start. I bought a 2006 Toyota Sienna two weeks ago the only known problem was the radio speakers would fade out after driving it for a while. I swapped it out for another radio and it didn’t make a difference now both sliding doors are also giving me a problem. At first the manual driver’s side door occasionally would not let us out using the interior handle almost as if the child safety lock is on and the exterior seems to require abnormal amount of force to open the handle. Now, this week the power passenger side sliding door started giving me a problem, the door was stuck in the open position and when we went to close it, would only move half an inch so we push it manually. Ever since then the buttons and Fob's only make the noise then are unable to move it any further either open or closing unless I use the handle and now since yesterday the interior handle on the power door is working intermittently as well. I spoke to the previous owner and he said the rear doors were not having an issue that he knew of I’m wondering if the radio and doors could share something in common that could explain both.
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For about a year now, my trusty Sienna has been making this intermittent little squeak. It's not loud (it's not the belt!). It seems to be coming from the passenger side, toward the rear. It only happens when I am moving. It seems to happen when I am running the AC. It is a soft little chirpy-ish squeak, about 2 seconds in duration. It sounds for all the world like a vent opening up with a squeak. Driveability is in no way compromised.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
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We had our Timing belt& water pump replaced 5 months ago, due to maintenance book suggestion for our 2006 Toyota Sienna LE, 119,000 miles on her. Now there is a leak in the R & P.
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I have owned a 2006 Toyota Sienna for about a year and half, it has 180,000+ miles on it. Periodically and totally unexpectedly, we'll go over a bump in the road and the van will totally lock up like I have pulled the emergency break up. Which I haven't. The van will still be in drive, the tires will come to a complete stop and we'll have see and smell burning rubber.
To get the car going again, we'll have to put it back into park and then back into drive. Its one of the scariest things I have witness being in a car. Luckily it usually happens between 10 -20 miles per hour and we haven't had an accident because of it. I have taken the van to 3 mechanics including a Toyota dealer and no one has been able to fix it. The only thing that has work for a time has been cleaning the speed senors, Also, it maybe worse when the A/C is on but we aren't sure.
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Well, a serious problem may be pending on my 2002 Sienna. I get a lot of flats, and usually lose a tire on average each year, due to lots of junk on the roads and streets. So, in the last couple weeks, sometimes the tire light comes on, and I assume I have another leak. But, then it has gone out again after a while and the pressure is okay.
Yesterday, moderate temperatures, I drove only 3 miles or so, to visit friends. The car sat an hour or more. When I started it, the ABS light was blinking and the tire light was on.
I stopped the car, and re-booted, that is, turned it off, and started it again. Lights were okay. Today, I started it, and the ABS and tire lights were on, and not blinking. I re-booted the car, and they were okay.
Three things come to mind:
- Computer
- Bad or intermittent connections somewhere in the light system. The fact a re-boot fixes it tends to preclude this, but with electronics, there is no such thing as 100% sure anything.
- Ambient conditions. I normally park at the end of the house, but workers first put a dump truck load of sand there. Then, they moved in a couple pickups of laja (flagstone) with pieces from very small to maybe 150 pounds each piece.
So, I have parked along the house, and there is a roof drain which drains 500 square feet or more, with a 13 foot drop. I park with the driver's door maybe 3 to five feet from the place it hits. And, it has been raining lightly for the last couple weeks, and heavily the last three days. No water in the car body, but who knows what happens underneath.
I stopped typing and moved enough stones to park there again, and will be telling the workers they need to keep my parking place open for me.
I know we used to have problems with our electronics in private airplanes, and the fix was to install a liner inside the electronics access door. Electronics does not work well when submerged. I also checked with my new scanner, and no DTC; and no history at all.
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Lately my Sienna makes this noise whenever it is started. The noise lasts for 5-10 seconds. It builds up very loud towards the end and then stops abruptly. I made a recording of the sound and have attached it.
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My check engine light won't stay off. My mechanic keeps replacing things. He says its got to be the exhaust system. I was wondering if its something electrical or within the car's computer system. First time he replaced one of the catalytic converters. The light went off then reappeared several days later. He replaced the oxygen sensor. Light off again then back on 2 days later. Then he replaced the other catalytic converter. (I was told there are 3 of them). Once again the engine light went off but reappeared 2 days later.
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When it rains, it pours. My 2002 Sienna had a burned out headlight bulb the other day.
So, why am I even mentioning it? Buy a new 9003 bulb, open the hood, unplug the socket; pull off the rubber cover, twist the clip and take out the bad buld, and reverse it to put in the new one.
No one in town had a 9003. They did have 9004, but some on-line research said some bulbs have very precise placement for the filaments. While I am not sure 9004 is different wiring from 9003, why bother?
So, I dug in the box of used parts, found an old bulb I swapped out probably over 100,000 miles ago, grabbed some pipe cleaners and rubbing alcohol, and cleaned that old bulb and put it in. Works fine.
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I hit a pothole on I 55 going about 70 mph and the ABS/tire pressure lights went on. My gut feeling is that this is not serious, as the car is 14 years old (131,000 miles) and runs well. Figure it's just a sensor or connection issue or something like that. Is there a way that I can test to see if my ABS has stopped working without going to a mechanic? The tire pressure light comes on now and then at high speeds and usually means nothing.
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Had after market front struts installed by a non-dealer shop on 2006 Toyota Sienna. Dealer service dept diagnosed two months later that the struts were one inch too long and caused damage to the lower control arms. A director for training for the other shop (one of 80 + shops) completely discredits the dealer shop's theory about the relationship between the size of the struts and the damage to the control arms, while admitting the error with the struts. Both sounded credible as I have very limited mechanical background.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry LE, and the seat belt light keeps on flashing and the airbag light is solid. We have tried literally everything possible, tried replacing the seat, replaced the seats sensors, tried a airbag module out of another 07 camry with exact same part #. Toyota have diagnosed that all the systems for airbag is fine, except it has something to do with the seat belt of the drivers side/or module but all that's been checked and still no luck. My car is due for Safety inspecting coming month and need this to fixed. How to handle this. Btw light came on because we had a blown fuse for the drivers power seat, and my mechanic thought that it was the motor so we replaced the seat and noticed that it wasn't the motor. Was just the fuse and we put back the original seat and everything is functional except the lights came on. No accidents on it to the extent i know. and the wiring is all plugged back properly without anything like wiring damage.
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A few years ago I bought a used 2006 Toyota Rav4. I was rear ended in 2010 and my air bag did not deploy. Only damage was to back bumper. Yesterday I was again rear ended. I am guessing the only problem will be a damaged bumper, but once again the air bag did not deploy. This time I had an elderly couple in my car and both said the impact was hard enough that my air bags should have deployed. No one was hurt. How much force does it take to make the air bags deploy? Should I be concerned? If so, can the body shop check my air bags or do I need to go to the dealer for that?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Prius. The airbag/srs light came on a couple weeks ago and would come and go. Eventually it came and did not go. This didn't really bother me as I don't drive it much anymore and I figured it would be gone by the next time I went to start it up. (I also heard about connections under the seat being loose and hoped that was the problem.) Well I was wrong. Today I noticed it was still there so I decided to start diagnosing. I jumped the connector as my obd2 scanner only reads regular and abs codes (not srs apparently).
The only code that came up was 51. Which is the driver side squib circuit. Many say that code 51 usually just ends up being the spiral cable. I simply find this odd as every button on my steering wheels works. Cruise control works fine etc. Idk how only 1 or 2 wires get messed up in that thing and how they turn out to be the ones for the airbag but I suppose its possible. My next step is to take a continuity tester to the 2 plugs that connect to the airbag to see if they are getting power.
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