It should be no surprise that my vote goes to the Tacoma's backseat folding strategy. The resulting flat surface and considerably lower loading height makes it much more functional. And it's hard to argue with two types of hidden bins that add up to more total cubby storage. Midsize trucks don't have as much interior space to work with as full size trucks do. It pays to make every cubic foot count.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2013 Five and cannot find the capacity for the car. I carried this load for 130 miles without a problem.
There might have been an inch of travel left in the rear suspension. This was approximately 1,300 pounds, including me.
We religiously wear seat belts on the road. BUT, on my 4WD Tacoma, driving around a farm they are not needed. Can you simply unplug the underseat sensor to defeat the annoying chime and yet not disable the airbag system?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002, Toyota Tacoma, extended cab, V6, 4WD. I purchased this new back in CA, before moving to CO. When the weather turns cold, a noise begins to start. The noise appears primarily when I am decelerating (just taking my foot off the gas). The noise sounds like chains rattling. I would equate the noise to the sound a diesel pickup makes (low rumble). The noise sounds (to me) like its coming from behind the passenger's seat in the floor. The noise is quite loud (people walking on the street can hear it and its apparent something is not right with the truck). The only constant thing is that it must be cold out. So, when spring comes, I tend to forget about the issue. We are having snow this weekend in Denver and its starting again. I have taken this to multiple mechanics over the years. They tighten everything up, but cannot seem to find or fix the problem.
View 3 RepliesI want to install seat covers in my new 2012 screw, and I was wondering if there is a way to fold down the seat backs of the rear seat. It would definitely make the installation easier. The dealer unfortunately had no idea. I looked and tried, but have not been successful.
View 11 RepliesMy 2001 Santa Fe has developed a failure in the rear seat back folding ratchet. I recently had my rear seats folded flat and when I came to restore them to normal use I found that the seat back ratchet would not engage.
I have taken the left hand (60%) seat out of the car and can clearly see that the cogs do not come together - well they almost do, but not enough to hold the back in position. How this can be adjusted?
I going crazy over this mad squeak in the bottom and back portions of my driver's seat. Several squeaks happen during regular driving and cornering. I weigh 215, but come on!!
Also the dash rattles, especially in the morning. It's right on top, in the middle, above the controls. I can push down and make it stop. I figure, I gotta pull off the dash plates and look underneath, but I'll take easier alternatives.
I love the power folding mirrors on my 2014 F250 Lariat, really makes a difference in parking lots. Is it possible to make them fold automatically when turning off the vehicle? I know it is a lazy person question but with automatic seats and mirror/peddle position wouldn't automatic folding also be a good idea?
View 4 RepliesHow to disassemble the power fold mirrors on my 2011 F250.
The mirrors work in every way except they will not fold in or out. You can hear the motor start but then stops right away. It does not sound like the gear is stripped just that the motor is stuck some home. It happened to both mirrors about the same time.
I was going to take one apart and see if there is a issue. I can't see there being a electrical issue, but maybe, since the driver side starts then stops within 1 second. It's hard to tell about the passenger side since the switch is on the drivers side.
In all fairness, this isn't for my SD, but there aren't really any forums for my '94 Villager and all A/C systems work pretty close to the same, so I thought I'd at least throw my question up here and see what comes of it. It's a bit of a hodge podge of manufacturers (Mercury, Nissan, Ford, Mitsubishi), but it's a Mercury, so technically a Ford.....ish.
My A/C crapped out last summer, so I finally got around to rebuilding it earlier this summer. I replaced absolutely everything except the rear expansion valves and the evaporators, which I flushed out with A/C flush and compressed air real good. Then I blew a line on a dirt road because I didn't get a line all the way clipped in. I got a bit paranoid about grit in the line, so I went ahead and replaced the line and dropped in a new dryer, sucked it all out good again, put a splash of POG oil in there, and filled it up with 134a.
According to the specs I could find, the capacity of my system is 52oz, or 4.3 of the standard 12oz cans. I always bleed the lines between cans to rid the lines of air and moisture as much as I can, so 4.5 cans usually gets about 52oz in the system. Anyways, it was 90 outside, so my readings should be 45-55 and 250-270. After adding 4.5 cans, and letting it run for a bit, my readings were still a bit low and my vent temp was only 60, so I went ahead and finished off the can. They were still reading low, so I sorta reluctantly hooked up another can and started filling. It sucked the whole can right up any my readings were 45 over 220 with vent temp at about 57. The low side is about on the low end of the acceptable range, but the high side still isn't quite up to the desired range and I don't want to stick another can in even though my readings indicate I'm not over-filled. I'm wondering if something's not right in there, or if maybe I'm just expecting too much from a 23 year old A/C design...?
Strolling into work today at 35-45 mph, it was a touch over 80 outside and my vent temp was a smudge over 40, so I guess that's not too bad. My radiator fans works fine, but they don't move a bunch of air. I usually drop an additional ~15 degrees when I'm on the move as opposed to sitting at idle.
I have a 2013 Tacoma TRD with 18k miles, totally stock after driving awhile intermittently the front left wheel has been locking up like I tapped the brake just on that wheel. I've taken it to Toyota and they cant duplicate the problem. This last weekend I drove several hundred miles and the right side started doing it about two to three seconds after the left side for about five minutes then ran fine. It actually makes a chirping noise and slightly jerks the wheel in that direction. This has only happened going over 65mph. Since Toyota claims to have never seen this problem there basically telling Me to drive the truck until it gets worse. They checked the brakes and bearings out.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1996 Tacoma - manual transmission, 4 cylinder, 2.7 liter engine with close to 170,000 miles on it - owned it for 10 years and 100,000 miles. Wonderful, great truck. Except.....
It has two starting problems and I can't seem to sort them out. The first is it's incredibly hard to start when the outside air is hot. Living in San Francisco, I usually forget about this problem until I drive to the central valley to visit my mom in August. Nothing like coming out of the rest stop, trying to start the engine and then having the feeling of doooh! again!. Seems to be worse when the outside air temp is over 85 or 90 degrees and the engine has been running than sits for 5-10 minutes. Cranks fine but won't catch. When it finally catches, it's like it's really slow to fire - can't quite explain it, but it's like it's doing a lot of thinking about actually running and has to talk itself into the idea. Can take 5-10 minutes to finally get it going, but usually 30 seconds to a minute. Always worried this'll be the time it doesn't want to go. My mechanic has looked at it a few times - but it's almost impossible to recreate in San Francisco when I get home due to the lack of warm days.
Second problem is trouble cold starting. When I come out in the morning, the engine takes two or three attempts to get it to start. Once it again, it cranks fine, but it's as if there's no fuel getting to the engine. If I just keep cranking, it won't fire but if I crank it, turn it off, crank it, turn it off and crank it again it'll always catch on the second or third go. Once the engine is at temp, it seems like less of a problem and easier starting. My mechanic say's "It's an old truck and it always starts eventually, so don't worry about it."
I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with a manual transmission that will not go into gear. How can you tell if it is the clutch or the slave cylinder that is bad?
View 2 RepliesI have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
View 3 RepliesThe mirror on the passenger side is not folding in/out anymore. It happened a few times before but only for a very brief period... it's now been 5 days... so I am thinking it's dead...
View 3 RepliesMy 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
My 2002 Tacoma has recently been experiencing transmission trouble. Between 45-60 MPH at various revs, the truck begins to shudder and shake. The severity depends on how aggressively I accelerate. After several weeks of this, the check engine light came on. It has remained on since, except when it flashes if I accelerate too quickly. Throughout the shuddering, the revs remain constant. By roughly 60-70 mph, the truck runs smoothly again. In a (possibly) unrelated note, the parking brake indicator is lit almost constantly, particularly in wet or cold weather, although the brake is not engaged.
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2003 Tacoma 2.4l engine and it has terrible gas mileage.I haven't checked the numbers yet, drive for but it cost medrive for 2 hours. Where do I start looking? The air filter is clean, the tires have plenty of air.
View 5 RepliesI changed the coil on cylinder 4 on my 2004 V6 Tacoma and the p0304 code keeps coming back along with the hesitation and missing when I accelerate. The wires were replaced a month ago. What now?
View 3 RepliesMy 1987 Toyota motorhome has an inconsistent shimmy which starts between 47 and 55 mph. This is a one ton chassis. I replaced the front tires and had them balanced.An independent mechanic said that everything was tight and could not find the problem. I took it to Toyota and they also said everything was tight. They checked steering, suspension, wheel bearings, brakes, and U joints. When the shimmy starts, accelerating or decelerating does not stop the shimmy.At one time I took it rapidly from 55mph down to a full stop. As I slowed the shimmy and thumping got more intense all the way down to a dead stop.The shimmy will start on smooth, even pavement and hitting bumps does NOT seem to start the shimmy.The RV has 75000 miles on it.
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