Toyota - Yaris :: 2007 - Torn CV Boot On Driver Side
Mar 13, 2011
I just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
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2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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I just bought a 2005 GX470 with 107k miles. Very happy with my purchase. The truck is in great condition, very well maintained, super clean, with lots of service records. Previous original owner did not skip any of the recommended items when it came to service, including T-belt, water pump, etc.
However, while inspecting the SUV today, i found one problem. On the driver side, the inner CV boot is torn and it is spraying some gray looking grease around. The passenger side, looks fine.
My question is... how hard is to replace the torn CV boot on these trucks? Do i need any special tools? Should i just replace the boot(s) or do the whole CV axle?
I've replaced CV boots on Nissan Maxima and old Audi in the past and it was a doable but time consuming task. Both times, i wished i replaced the entire axle vs dealing with fixing individual CV boots.
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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Was replacing the rear brakes on my Mom's 2010 Prius II and found a tiny tear in the piston dust boot on the driver side. The piston still moves freely. I was hoping the boot could be replaced without removing the piston but from reading the repair manual on the brakes it specifically says the boot must be placed on the piston before the piston is installed.
So now I'm debating on what to do. I can rebuild the caliper for almost nothing but I can't bleed the brakes because of the Prius' system. I would have to take it to the dealer afterwards and not sure about driving it there. Do things could be damaged with air in the system?
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I have an 06 gs300 awd. My left front axle boot is torn wide open. I've called multiple parts stores, looked online. And I can't seem to find one anywhere but the dealer. I have found one for gs350. So my question is will that one work in my gs300? What is the part number from the dealer is different between 06 and 07?
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I know this has been covered before and I did search but got no where. It's covered in the FAQ sticky but the link is no good. Where can I get an axle assembly that's not going to cost me 550 bones like on ECS?
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Just tore through my second driver side outer boot it's frustrating. I'm thinking about buying an axle but are the boots not going to rip on them. Thing is I don't really get why the are ripping since I'm not super low or anything I know people that are lower and haven't had any issues
I put this new OEM axle in just a couple months ago. Could my Coilover be sitting to low in the strut housing and rubbing on the boot or what. I don't know if that is the mechanical terms but I did my best but how would I go about fixing this.
When I was looking around for the axle last time and I tried to go through smaller shops but none of the axles they had matched up, so I had to go to the dealership and my wallet took a beating. This time thinking about the cv boot kit for urotuning.
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Last year, when the passenger's side CV boot ripped and all that grease few around, it started to make that familiar clicking sound when making turns. I had a heck of a time replacing it. Did not like to doing the work.
Now, the driver's side boot is ripped. Grease everywhere. The clicking sound is just starting to be noticeable. Can I just wash out the CV joint and repack it with grease and a new boot? Or, should I just replace the CV joint?
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So the other day I was changing the oil on the SF, and I noticed a glob of grease (fist sized) on the passenger side of the frame. After cleaning up the mess it appeared that the grease was coming from the inner CV boot on the passenger side. From my position under the SF I could not see any obvious crack in the boot, and I also squeezed the boot and ran my finger around it in each of the bellows. I still didn't find any rupture. I then began to wonder if the boot had slipped off of the base of the axle. I pushed and pulled on the boot and could not really budge it.
In full disclosure I did change the front struts 2 weeks prior. My only thought is maybe I pulled the boot off somehow during that job. If that was the case though wouldn't I be able to move/dislodge the boot now?
FWIW there is no noise coming from the passenger side that would indicate the CV joint is bad or on its way out.
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The car required a new water pump, the mechanic suggested to also replace the serpentine belt because of age - after a week the car made high pitch noise when started, the noise stopped after the initial start-at the shop it was explained that a new serpentine belt requires tightening after the car has been driven for a while - like a week- is this correct or was the belt not installed correctly....
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My Toyota 2010 Yaris (5 door) has a electronic key locking issue. when locking the car with the smart key you will hear the mechanisms for all the doors locking then straight away the locking sound of the drivers door will go off again. all the doors will be locked except the drivers door. the drivers door still locks manually using the key but will not lock electronically. just want to know if there is a simply answer to this or something more sinister.
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A couple of months ago my Yaris was hit just behind the driver side door by a Ford F150, luckily traveling at a low speed. Other than body damage, my car seemed to be fine. After driving the car around for 2 weeks with the damage then taking it in for its 10 day repair, I brought home my wonderful little car. I live in Florida and even though it's winter, we had a rather warm day, just a couple days after bringing my car back home. I turned on the AC and ...nothing came out. So I tried it on higher settings and ...still nothing came out until I got to the highest blower setting. Suddenly it sounded like someone had turned a blender on inside my car but some air was making its way out of my blowers.
I called the shop that did my repairs and they said "well, you probably just blew a fuse. It's not accident related so we can't take care of it without charging you." My understanding was that I would not be able to get my blower to work at all if a fuse was blown, and my air certainly worked following the accident and prior to getting repairs done. If a fuse was blown, I'm willing to bet a lot of money that the shop was responsible. ...the fact that they also broke my glove compartment, got paint all over my seat, and made my car smell like a paint store also make me weary of using them again, but my insurance company swears by them. First of all, what is wrong with my car? Second of all, how do I fix it?
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It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
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Just got a 08 hybrid with torn driver seat. I have to change the seat. Will any driver seat from a 08 escape fit it?
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris about 12,000 miles ago in March of this year. Automatic transmission, it now has around 72,500 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a "clunking" sound/feeling when I shift from park to drive while on an incline. It doesn't matter if I am going from park to reverse, or visa versa. It is more of a feeling... like something is broken and shifting forward or backwards more quickly/violently that it should, but I can hear it slightly. There is no such sound/sensation on level ground.
Temperature/weather is not a factor. Is this a symptom of a bad motor mount/tranny mount? I had a bad motor mount on a previous car, and experienced a rattling noise while idling. There is no such noise or vibration with this car. I do not have a stable mechanic yet and would like an opinion before I try and establish a relationship with one (considering I am a small 25 year old woman who looks 17-18 years old, and I am not normally taken seriously).
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In January I had to replace my engine in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. Last week we had the first day, since the engine replacement, that I needed to use the air. The fan blows air, it just isn't cold. Could this be anything to do with the engine replacement? Maybe they didn't hook something up properly? Do the drain the coolant to the ac when they take out the engine? I have been reading that it may simply be a fuse or needs to be charged. I realize I should have checked the a/c when I picked it up, but at -8 below, air conditioning doesn't cross your mind.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo with no sunroof.
When there is heavy rain, I end up with extremely damp carpets in the driver's side. There is also water which looks as though it has leaked from running do the driver's side of the windscreen.
I have a strong suspicion that there is a leak in the windscreen, down the driver's side or at the bottom, but are there any other locations or suggestions that could be causing the leak ?
Also, if I take it in, is it possible just to replace the seal round the windscreen, or will the whole windscreen need to be replaced ?
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Troubleshoot and diagnosis an occasional squeak from the front driver-side tire (FDST) on my 2004 Echo (4dr sedan). I have tried to figure out under what conditions I hear the squeaking and this is what I've come up with:
FDST usually starts to squeak after the car has warmed up.
It is not constant, but does seem to be consistent as a the tire rotates (as if it is the same spot(s) per tire revolution).
It is audible mainly during acceleration at low speeds (less than 50 km/h).
There is absolutely no squeaking or sound if I apply the brakes.
There is no squeaking at higher speeds (greater than 60 km/h).
I can pretty consistently reproduce the squeaking if I just slightly turn the steering wheel to the left.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Echo that has just recently developed a problem with the driver side low beam headlamp. When I hit the light with my hand then it comes to normal but when I switch off the car engine and restart then again no lowbeam lights.
I thought one of my bulbs had burned out and when check the bulb so I found a small piece broken in bulb glass so I replace it with new one and then.
The one working was went off and the one bulb replace start working then I took off both bulb and swap with each other and now..
When the lights are on low-beam the bulbs barely light and if I switch to high-beam only driver side works and passenger side no low/high beam.
Both parking and turn-signal works perfectly However. Somebody suggested that the ground wire of headlight could be damage/faulty.
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