Volkswagen - Beetle :: Low Tire Pressure Keeps Coming But No Leak Found
Jan 28, 2014
I have a 2010 VW Beetle. I did not use my car during the Christmas holiday and when I came back home I got 4 flat tires. Then I had it towed to the mechanic but they said they didn't find any leaks or punctures in any of the tires and it was just because the freezing cold weather. After 2 weeks I had flat tires again and I went to another mechanic, they told me the same thing but a few days later the low tire pressure light keeps showing on the dashboard and the tires become pretty flat every other day (about 15 psi). This is really bothering me because I have to go to the gas station to put air in the tire everyday.
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Been having an oil leak issue and found where it is coming from. Now the only issue is that what this is called. I do note believe its the hose but the connection to the hose. I attached a couple of images so that yall can take a look. This is a VW beetle 2006. 2.5 L 5 cylinder.
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We rebuilt my 1974 VW Beetle (new case, new jugs, mains, oil pump, etc,). With two different gauges we measure 4 pounds of oil pressure, The motor cranks and runs fine. We don't run it long. We ordered another new oil pump. What could be wrong?
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I purchased a 2003 VW Beetle Diesel and have compression leaking from the valve cover around the number 1 cylinder. It does not run or will barely run. Is this a common problem and what could cause this. i haven't tried anything yet.
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Overheating light comes on when I don't even start the engine and its not hot and I am not sure what to look for....
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Ive been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
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My low tire light is on my 2009 VW Sportwagen SE 2.5. The tires are inflated properly even the spare tire and yet the light is still on.
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I had a 2012 Camry but has not found the TPM display on it. It has fuel info and trip history when push the CAR button. I thought it should be there. How do I locate or set it up? Or it is not standard on LE?
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My friend has a 2002 Beetle and the head lamps seems to blow out about every 2-3 months.
I looked at the connectors and there is no water leaking in and the connectors seem sound. Nothing appears obvious by eye. There may be a voltage spike when it is turned on but I don't have a way to test for this.
What is going on and what to do to address this.
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I have a mystery on my hands and am at a complete loss. I have a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle that will not hold an idle. It will start up just fine and as long as you have your foot on the gas, it will stay alive. As soon as you let off the car sputters and dies. Another symptom is that the is a miss in the engine, not sure if the two are related or need to time it and then check on the idle. Here is what I have done in an attempt to fix the issue:
I have been able to adjust the idle to get it to stay alive for about 30 seconds longer, but no matter ho much I adjust it still struggles and dies. Idles very rough no matter what.
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Replaced the condenser and points (adjusted the points properly etc.)
Replaced and gapped the spark plugs
Replaced the idle cutoff solenoid
Adjusted the automatic choke
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Some have suggested a vacuum leak, and i know i have to put some sort of solution on the vacuum connections, but since I am relatively new to the world of VW beetles I am not quite sure where those are and what to put on and what to do if there is a leak.
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I have a 2002 VW Beetle with a failing transmission at fewer than 60,000 miles, apparently one of the ones made in Mexico. VW has already replaced the catalytic converter. There is a lot of online complaining about the transmission issue and about the catalytic converter. The car is in otherwise good condition or seems to be. Would it be a good or bad investment to replace the transmission for about $2400?
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Anything that could be causing this.
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I own a 2007 VW Beetle (automatic) that I bought brand new and it currently has 85,500 miles on it. In the past year or so, I feel like this car has become even more of a money pit than it was to begin with (note to readers: do not buy a Volkswagen unless you are a millionaire!). I have one major concern and looking to see what others know or have experienced with this...
I got an 80,000 mile service done on my car towards the end of April. The mileage on my car was around 82,500, I think. The oil is synthetic and the dealer always recommends having the oil changed every 10,000 miles. The handy little sticker in my car indicated that I change the oil at 92,500. Fast forward to the end of June... check engine light came on though there was no difference in the driving of the car. I am hypersensitive about my car acting differently or driving oddly because I know how VW will gouge my wallet! I took the car to have the code read and it came back "Air Injection" which of course can be a multitude of things. I don't like paying people $100 just to tell me what's wrong with my car and not have that $100 apply to repairs. So, I took my car to a German car speciality shop. They ran diagnostics and told me that it was the Air Pump Injection Valve. A quick $450 later and my car is off and on the road.
Small problem... it wasn't driving well AT ALL. No check engine light but I KNEW there was something wrong. Car would "rev" or drive in overdrive until it switched gears which always happened at a higher RPM than usual. Sometimes when I started off from a stop, I would notice a "slip" in the engine/transmission (pardon me but I don't really know that much about cars). Other times, usually when turning, I would notice a knocking noise coming from under the hood. The car was literally SHAKING. Not vibrating. I know what a tire balance looks like - steering wheel shaking usually at higher speeds (60+), but that is NOT what this felt like. The steering wheel would be still, but the car itself shaking. This happened only at lower speeds (average 40 mph - I drive almost exclusively on city roads).
SO.. off I go back to the shop. This time I decided to return to the VW Dealership because I trust that they really do know what's wrong even if they overcharge you. They told me that there was very little OIL in the car which was causing the engine to knock. That is so puzzling since I had only driven 3,000 miles since my last oil change. I promptly asked them to check for a leak to which they replied that they already did. No oil leak. The reply I got as to why it would consume that much oil was "sometimes the level of oil consumption just increases." HMMMMMM.....
My car is driving very well now that oil has been added. No knocking. No slipping. No shaking (magic! they suggested a tire balance which I agreed to but then they said they couldn't because the rim was bent. That is interesting since they just rotated them in April.) I can't imagine why the oil would disappear after 3,000 miles. Could the repair shop who did the valve replacement have drained the oil?
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I have a 1968 Beetle that has been sitting for a long time, after working through a list of items for the restart I put a new battery in and turned it over. Starter works fine and turns engine over but when I turn the key off starter will not stop until I disconnect the battery, When I reconnect battery everything is fine again until I try to start and starter keeps going until I disconnect battery again.
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I have a 2002 bettle with about 150k on it. was running fine and one day while the wife was driving it she heard a loud pop/bang and it started missing and has low power. Starts fine just dosent have much power and is missing on one cylinder.
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I have an 06 Beetle 5 cylinder, and just the other day, after getting a new battery and they installed it, when I'm driving and step on the gas into overdrive, it gets really loud, almost like a knocking or loud muffler that has a hole it it. However, it doesn't do this when I'm in park and step on the gas. Only in drive. It still has great power, but is loud now. I'm worried that the shop did something to mess it up, but they won't check it. There is enough oil in the engine.
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Have an 01 vw beetle stuck in third unless I manually downshift it but still wont shift into overdrive.
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Other than lack of cooling ,will a failed ac compressor on a 2006 Volkswagen Beetle cause other issues if not repaired? it is a convertible.
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen Beetle that has a rattle in the rear of the car over both wheels. It sounds like plastic on plastic. At first I thought it was the struts which I replaced yesterday, but the rattle still continues. It sounds like it's in the suspension system, because it only rattles when I drive over bumps. I checked the plastic boots that fit over the struts, but they feel firmly in place. Should I have replaced them as well? What should I be looking for?
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I bought a 2001 Beetle with a 1.9 TDI Diesel engine, automatic transmission 200K miles. When sitting at a stoplight or even when just starting out in the morning the transmission won't engage. I have to bring the engine up to about 1600 RPM's then with a clunk it goes. After that it shifts fine. It even down shifts nicely when going up a hill. Now, if I am on the freeway with it and want to pass another car, it will unlock again and slip if I get on it to hard. It then will lock back in and go. Checked the transmission fluid and its full. (I still can't believe that can't put a stupid dip stick in new cars) I am trying to do all the possible cheap fixes first in hopes that it could be something easier then replacing the transmission.
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My daughter has a 1999 New Beetle and when she doesn't drive it for a week or so, the battery is drained down to zero and the car needs a jump start. We've replaced the battery twice - the latest battery is only about 3 months old but when we came back from a week's vacation, the car was dead. Instead of jump starting it ourselves we decided to call AAA (gotta' use the membership occasionally). They tested the battery and it was drained to zero (in warm weather). After jump starting it and a few days of normal driving, I took it to the shop where we bought the battery. They tested it and it registered 759 amps (its rated at 730).
The guy at the shop said that it was normal to for a battery to drain to zero after sitting for 7-9 days because of negative drain (keeping the clock running, etc.) I'm not sure I believe him - because I've never had that quick of a battery drain with my other cars.
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