Volkswagen - Rabbit :: 1982 - When Starting It Spins Without Turning Over / Tends To Backfire
Jun 16, 2012
Let me start by saying that I love my silly old Rabbit. Presently though I am irritated and confused by its new quirk. When starting it spins with out turning over. It sounds to me like it is not getting fuel. It also tends to backfire (or something else that causes a small amount of smoke). It does inevitably start and once it is running it seems fine. It got a full tuneup this spring, I have checked the fuel pump and replaced the fuel regulator. The problem persists. My present theory is that it has something to do with the ghost that lives in the wiring that recently made half of my instrument cluster dead, but that could and just be its own problem.
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I have a 1984 VW Rabbit, 4 cyl., 5 spd, that chokes off when I slow down to stop....
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I have a 2006 VW Rabbit with 106k miles. It is an automatic. Strange problem: if it is raining AND the traction control symbol comes on (I slip), then the EPC light comes on and the car is slow to shift and has poor acceleration. This does not happen if it is not raining and it does not happen just when it's raining. One mechanic recommended cleaning the throttle body, but since the car runs great all other times, this didn't make sense to me.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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This just started today and when I turned off my car and removed the key from the ignition, the radio stayed on. Also, when I opened the door, the door chime came on as if the lights were still on and now I'm not able to lock the car or set the alarm using my key. I've read that some vw cars are wired so that the radio stays on after the car is turned off, but this has never been the case with my car. My main concern is battery drainage and being unable to lock and arm my alarm.
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My VW Rabbit (2007) has water in the spare tire well (under hatchback floor); under the floor mats in the back (passenger side has puddled up over the floor mat); appears to have water inside the driver side wall (seat belts are damp and have mildew); appears to have water leaking from under the passenger side onto the ground (backseat end).
This is not a case of windows or sun roof having been left open. Nor have I driven through a flooded area of significance. Last year the rear-passenger-side of this car was destroyed in a 50mph hit by an SUV and insurance co. chose to have it repaired rather than total....
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I bought a used 2008 Rabbit about two year ago. Recently, I have been experiencing two problems:
Sometimes, when I am idling at a light, my car stalls and the EPC and battery lights turn on. If I turn off my car and back on it then runs fine.
Last night, I drove my car to two stops. At the second stop, the car wouldn't turn on. I got a jump and drove it straight to the mechanic's. This morning they said the battery is charged and the car is turning on fine. They cannot find anything so far that is draining the battery.
What might be causing these two problems?
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My girlfriend has a 2007 Volkswagen Rabbit, and she said that occasionally when she slows down as she's getting off the freeway her car downshifts from third to first really quickly and she's concerned. She took it to the dealer but, of course, they couldn't tell what was wrong because it only happens on occasion. They said it might have something to do with the brakes pumping if she slows down too fast. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
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I have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
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VW Rabbit 09 - Makes a loud noise coming from the back of the car, at first I suspected exhaust, but it does not get louder from hitting the gas. The noise gets louder the faster car moves starting around 20 mph. It sounds like it is running at high RPMs but the tachometer does not read over 3000 RPM. There is no check engine light on currently, in the past the light has come on after driving through puddles and then the car could not shift into the higher gears and would be stuck at 40 mph.Eventually, it would resolve itself. I have inspected the exhaust but I can not see anything that would cause the noise. The transmission does seem a little sluggish to shift, but it is a smooth shift.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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I have a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5. Every time I fill up the car all the way, i have this problem with it. i go to start the car and it wont start, i hear the engine turning, but it wont start, but if i wait for 5 mins and then try to start, it starts up and I don't have any issues with it after that.. If i fill up my car a little bit , i don't have this problem. only when i fill up the tank all the way, it gives me this trouble. What is going on and what is wrong with the car?
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I have a 2002 bettle with about 150k on it. was running fine and one day while the wife was driving it she heard a loud pop/bang and it started missing and has low power. Starts fine just dosent have much power and is missing on one cylinder.
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I have a 1982 Chevy C30 pickup with an ignition problem. When it's really cold out, 15 degrees or colder, it won't start. When I turn the key, it feels like I'm turning a piece of clay. There is NO cranking, clicking or any sound made. The accessories won't work either. The last time this happened, I heated the ignition tumbler with a heat gun and the truck started. It started one time after that. Then on a warm day it started once; then wouldn't restart. I turn the key and nothing. It had to be towed. I wondering if the problem is the ignition tumbler, where I put the key, or the ignition switch, which is located near the bottom of the steering column.
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I have a 98 camaro z28 and im having some problems with my rear end. I am positive its a limited slip. Ive removed the cover from differential and know what a lsd looks like. My problem is when i turn and hit the gas only 1 tire spins. But if im going straight and hit the gas both tires spins. When i say spin i mean break loose. I removed the cover tonight and took a look. No metal shavings at all. It all looks in good conditon. It has a 390 gear in it. Owner before me put it in. I removed the calipers and the axels have a little play in them. About a quarter inch play going in and out. Was wondering if this was normal. Also while it was jacked up i could hold one wheel while spinning the other. And if i play with it i can make the back left tire spin by its self also not making the ring gear move. Is it normal for a wheel to spin and the ring gear not move? I have a lot of questions about differentials. But mainly why am i only getting one tire to spin when turning?
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Over the past few months my '13 350 occasionally seems to hesitate when starting from a light, in a parking spot, in general no/low speed maneuvers. It doesn't do it every time, and it's not a hesitation with engine bucking, backfire, or noise. It just feels like the power takes a few seconds to come on when I hit the pedal. Sometimes. It has been interesting a few times on highway on-ramps...
At first I thought it was my accelerator technique, using the wrong foot angle, but I've been careful to apply the pedal correctly. Since it doesn't feel like the classic engine miss I was wondering if there are any other things to consider, such as transmission (hopefully a software update or something else simple) or anything else.
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I've got a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 automatic (essentially a small version of a VW Polo, sold in Europe). It's got 65000miles on it. The car starts up just fine the first time, summer or winter. If you shut off the motor after a short time, 5 or 10 minutes, restarting it can be a problem. If this happens a third time, starting will be even more difficult. If you drive for awhile restarting is no problem, the pattern starts over again. I've replaced the battery, plugs, gas filter, had the distributor looked at. Restarting became marginally better.
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My daughter drives a 2005 Passat station wagon, has a small child and one on the way. She has had intermittent problems with the car just not wanting to crank. After sitting 15-20 minutes it will crank. But the wait and not knowing if it will crank is taxing me and her. Especially since she has another one on the way. She has taken it to a reputable mechanic. They kept it for 3 days, cranking it on and off without a problem, and told her they couldn't find anything.
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I have a 2003 volkswagen jetta and the steering pulls in the direction of a turn while making a turn on both the right and left sides. In April of this year the rack and pinion was replaced and an alignment was done. However, the steering still pulled in the direction of a turn. In addition, the drivers side tire completely wore out within 6-8 weeks of having the steering fixed while the other tires remained intact. We were told we had a loose tie-rod on the drivers side - could this cause the quick wear on the tire and cause the pull in the steering? Also there has been a clinking (metal to metal) sound on the drivers side that occurs whenever we hit potholes or drive over uneven surfaces, could that also be the tie rod?
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My son's 1988 MK2 Golf GTI recently began a most curious random rough idle, occasionally to a stall, especially when turning abruptly, or when initiating a stop with the clutch depressed, and now always when turning at low speeds in combination with brake application. This only occurs when the engine is warm. The braking clue first led me to investigate the brake vacuum booster as they will cause that symptom when they fail internally, but if they fail, the sudden low , rough idle symptom is repeatable. This is not the case. Sitting in the driveway I can depress the brakes firmly with no change in engine rpm. Idle stays steady and normal. So I checked carefully for vacuum leaks, found none. Checked all the fuel system sensors and idle speed regulators, all are in order. New battery, good output from the alternator, ignition timing strobe is steady and bright. All the air intake rubber is like new. The in-tank fuel transfer pump works. The high pressure external fuel pump works.
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My wife has a 1999 New Beetle 5-speed manual 2.0 with 110K miles. A few times ‘only when turning right’ the battery light has come one. It loses power (bogs) but then when straightening out after the curve all is well.
VW Dealer said battery and alternator are fine, ground is good and secure.
Firestone said the same thing. The battery is from Sears, they said the same thing.
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