When I start engine usually your dashboard light turn on, eng, seatbelts, etc. but that doesn't happens, but engines starts for awhile and than you see the volt indicator drawing negative. And after few minutes of running it dies and will not start, battery is dead, I believe there is a short circuit or a relay problem....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius with less than 10,000 miles. Lately I have run into car starting up problems. I have smart key, but what happens is that even after pressing the brakes all the way and pressing the ON button, it won't start, it would just go into the state where all the indication lights on the dashboard are on. But so far I have been able to start it after a few tries, like after giving it some time etc.
View 19 RepliesI bought my car and have had nothing but issues. I think I have driven the loaner rx almost as much as I have had my GX 460. Vibration issues, suspension issues, loose bolt issues, etc... Now for the double secret bonus I am on vacation and so is my GX. Went out tonight to pick up dinner after driving 3 1/2 hours and nothing but grinding clicks. Called roadside and they came. Not the battery. This is the second time it has happened. No lights are indicated.
View 14 RepliesI have a fairly low mileage 2005 Prius I purchased private sale about 6 months ago... so still getting used to a few things. The previous owners had to replace the hybrid battery at about 45,000 mi. From what I understand, that's pretty unheard of. The reason that was given that the battery died was that the Prius was in their garage un-driven for a couple weeks while they were on vacation and the car had been pinging the key fob (close by in the house) the whole time. The associated details were a little fuzzy, but the owner has a note written in the manual about a certain combo of buttons to hit if you'll be away from the car for awhile, but the fob will still be physically close to the car. This combo turns off the hybrid battery (??)
Ok, so my question... How common is this? How long is 'long' that I should be concerned about leaving the car? Is it really best practice to keep your keep fob more than so-many feet from the car to reduce the chance of this happening?
Last August, with about 76,000 miles on it, the oil light on my xc70 came on when I was making a U-turn. I took the car into the dealer and was told it was down almost 4 quarts. The “cause” was the breather box which was replaced for a substantial amount of money. About 5k miles later the same thing happened. Again I was down over 3 quarts but the breather box was fine. There is no leak and absolutely no indication that oil is burning (no smoke, smell, residue in the tailpipe).
The speculation was that that the oil was somehow vaporizing in a line between the pan and the block. I didn’t buy that.Now after three more visits; I have been bringing the car in every 1k for an oil change and consumption check (the dealer has absorbed this cost) they have determined it is losing about ½ quart every 1k miles. They have not identified why. All they say is that I can rebuild the engine (new rings and pistons). This is ridiculous! 85k on the car and it needs a new engine. This was a certified pre-owned Volvo with 11k when I bought it and all service has been done by the dealer.
Believe an engine temperature sensor is bad. I took it in to get a code read, and they said it could be either temp sensor or fan switch, but didn't know which one without newer software.
Codes are
19537 - Engine Temperate too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
I've checked the fuse legend to see if there is a fuse I can pull, but none of them marked fan seem to kill it after the car is off, so that I can save some battery power.
I believe that I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. What is the level of job this is to replace? From a parts location manual, it looks like it is in the Thermostat housing, but I'm not sure where that is.
I have a 99 Town & Country that occasionally has a starting problem that has stumped my otherwise excellent mechanic. Every once in awhile when I start my van it kills right away. Even if I rev the engine with the gas pedal it kills immediately. It will do that 3-5 times, then when I turn the key nothing will happen, no click no dash lights, nothing. Often if I let it sit at that point for a few hours it will start and run fine.
The alternator was changed two years ago in an attempt to fix this problem and the starter was just replaced a few months ago.
Didn't even know it existed until it started blinking, but my key fob has a tiny little red LED that just started blinking today. I am guessing it means the battery is dying.
View 1 RepliesTested and replaced 2 bad battery cells in my 2007 Prius... Got everything put back together and now all dash lights are on and engine won't start... When i try to shift into drive or reverse it goes directly into park... I tested the battery without removing the safety key and the inside terminals are at 220 volts and the outside terminals are at 0 volts as shown by photo... Maybe due to a fuse somewhere?
View 19 RepliesI have 05 Prius, 97,000 miles. Noticed the HV battery charge level indicator moves up and down rather quickly and often. It rarely shows full charge and this condition seems to be worsening. This is with mostly city driving.
I'm concerned that the HV battery won't last much longer. To make matters worse I had recently moved to AZ heat, though my Prius is garaged, the heat can't be good for it.
My chain saw, chain is so tight against the bar that it kills the engine. However, I have properly (as I have always done) adjusted the chain where it very slightly hangs from the bar. Chain, after a few cuts, becomes way too loose to where it may jump the bar unless I readjust. IOW, I can't seem to keep the proper tension.
View 19 RepliesJust trying to get a list of possible reasons my car is acting funny. I may have one problem or more than one problem.
-The dashboard lights started going on and off intermittently while driving. I could feel the power steering was off but the engine never shut off. This happened first while I was running the A/C, but eventually started happening when the A/C was off. When the A/C was on, the car made a funny squeal sound then more of a grinding. The A/C stopped blowing cold air.
-The same thing would happen when driving through water/rain (the dashboard lights would come on and it felt like the car died but it didnt).
-The other night, the SRS light came on, cars electrical started shutting off. Car died. Jump started it, it ran for a couple miles, then died again. This happened the whole 12 mile trip home.
-Mechanic came over, said it was my battery. Replaced battery. Car died again 3 days later. I noticed the lights on the dashboard came on more while making a turn, but they came on while driving too, so idk if that is a good assumption.
I have a 1997 Volvo 960 station wagon. It has been sitting in the driveway for 5 months. I went to drive it and it wouldn't start. We jumped it and it ran but wouldn't hold a charge. The battery was about 7 years old so we went and bought a new battery. We took the old battery out and replaced it and now it does nothing. It won't start and there is no sign of power to the car at all.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL that I just replaced the battery. It started right up after it was installed. We drove it home and parked it for one week without trying to start it again because we still have parts to buy to pass safety. I live in UT. My son went out to start it today and it would not make any sound or turn over. What should I check next? Starter Solenoid? Alternator?
View 2 RepliesI have an 88 244 dl. I recently changed the battery charge bulb in the instrument cluster and no I have a no start. The starter engages and the motor turns over but makes no attempt to start. I checked all the fuses including the 25 amp fuse under the hood.
View 2 RepliesI’ve been having an engine misfire issue for a number of months. The dealership first changed the plugs, ignition cable kit and wiring, and that fixed it for a while. Then it came back and dealership couldn’t figure it out. They tested the O2 sensor and drove it around for a week to no avail. So I kept driving and have noticed a few trends. First the car drives better in overdrive, or when the rpms are 3,000 or above. Second when the car stalls, if I am trying to restart it immediately I have to give it some gas. Third it doesn’t mind idling in park. And fourth I’ve been having a battery drain. To solve the battery drain I’ve been charging the battery every night, and that definitely works, but I only get about 20 miles before the misfire comes back, and sometimes the misfire is just there immediately regardless. So I just replaced my alternator, and that didn’t solve the issue either. So what else could be the issue? I'm kinda at a loss and driving the car on the highway when the misfire starts is not exactly safe.
View 3 RepliesI am used to hitting my lock button on my key fob and hearing the horn honk to confirm it is locked. Is there a way to have the horn blow as well as see the lights bling to indicate the doors are locked?
View 17 RepliesI just changed my 2006 volvo s60 battery (located in the boot). Now everything works, the locks, the lights, the radio etc, but when i try to start the engine, it wont start. The starter is working, but engine wont follow. The manual of the car is in Dutch, so I was wondering, how to reset the security system or the immobilizer or whatever it is, that wont let me start the car.
View 1 RepliesOK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
My volvo is running fine but the ETS Light, OIL light and Check Engine LIght are constantly coming on and off intermittently. In March of 2011 the independent volvo specialist cleaned the throttle body and a cracking turbo hose. In September 2011 the dealership recommended to replace the dipstick tube and to reseal angle gear. In October 2011 the dealership tech notes possible internal failure to the transmission shift solenois, oil pump seals and an internal failure to the electronic throttle module. Recently I had the oil and filter changed and the check engine light reset but days later the lights all are back on. I am unable to smog the car until these light issues are resolved.
View 1 RepliesI have an airbag light indicator issue with my matrix 2009.
Whenever I start the car in cold, the indicator says " Airbag is off". After driven for like 30 mins and turn off and turn engine, everything is normal.