My Dads 92 Volvo's engine is making a knocking noise and I'm wondering what the possible causes are. He doesn't take that great care of it but it didn't over heat or anything. It sounds like it is making a loud knocking or clicking noise directly from the engine when you accelerate. It still runs but definitely has a lack of power.
View 6 RepliesThe speedometer on my car works intermittently. When I accelerate and release I hear a loud clicking noise and my speedometer and rpm stop working. It will jump from different speeds dropping to zero. Is my speedometer on its way out or could it be something else?
View 2 RepliesMy otherwise fine-driving 2003 Subaru Outback with 155,000 miles offers an odd, rapid, click, click, click, click directly from the engine while idling. It goes away once you drive off and then returns when you go back to idle. Not loud, not knocking, just click, click, click, click...My mechanic had no idea...and while it hasn't overheated yet (knock wood!) the engine always smells like its threatening to whenever I idle for more than few minutes, even on a cold day.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1992 SC Coupe I was just given for free from my Cousin. It has 92, 000 miles on it. The car looks in great shape, it drives smooth. But in the front under the hood there is a loud engine noise almost like there is no muffler on the car, you acutally hear it loud inside th car also. But the sound is in the front. After about 15 min of warming up the car the sound is gone. A freind suggested there could be a crack in the manifold.
View 5 RepliesWhen I 'hit the gas' I hear a loud clunk or short scratching noise (definitely metal) before the engine starts revving up. I've researched the issue a bit but found no concrete answers. Motor mounts, timing, transmission issue? No one thing seems to cause it as far as I can tell.
I got my '92 Volvo 240 Non-Turboalmost a year ago and haven't really thought much of the noise, but I'm coming up on a 500mi trip to Northern California. I want to make sure it's in tip-top shape before I leave. [IMG]
So, I am driving, engine starts to knock, i stop, check oil, there is none.... I drive to nearest gas station, put in 4 quarts, still knocks but quieter. Drive back home 75 miles, knocking is incredibly loud. Had oil changed 2500 miles ago, no signs of leaking (Did they put oil in after draining? Hard to prove they didn't) By the time I got home, new oil was black. Is this an engine replacement or can it be fixed?
View 4 RepliesWhen I accelerate, particularly between the 50-60 mph range, the engine makes a very subtle, yet definite clicking noise. Mentioned this to the dealer - the car is still under warranty - and of course, they can't replicate the sound..is this common?
View 19 RepliesLately it has been in the 20's in my area and I've noticed on the first start of the morning the engine sounds very loud and produces a "knocking" noise that lasts a few seconds and then goes back to its normal loud idle. This only happens on the first start of the day...all subsequent starts in the day are fine. (mine is a 2007 model with the FSI engine)
View 11 RepliesMy car has 63 000 km and engine is making loud knocking noise all the time. Dealer took a quick look and he asked head office. Now he wants to run some tests to see which valve is bad. He's hesitating between repairing or replacing the engine. I'm really disappointed of Hyundai quality. I really hope that I get new engine instead of poor repair job.
View 17 RepliesI recently started having a very loud knocking noise in my engine and I can't place it. Mostly due to my lack of car knowledge I can only trouble shoot so far. The following conditions are what I can really only go from:.
- when I'm in park or neutral the knocking happens in about 5 beats per second.
- while idling in gear it almost goes away.
- while driving it increases in frequency and intensity the higher the rpms, until it switches gears, then its dull until I get closer to topping out another gear.
- No real functionality of the car has changed.
- I tried doing a mild brake torque, in both drive and reverse, and the engine did not move.
- the knock is pretty hard to locate exactly but seems to come from the passenger side.
I'm hoping it's not to serious because I just filled the gas tank.
Our 1997 850GL wagon with 160k miles has persisently noisy valves. At considerable cost, we replaced the hydraulic valve lifters with new ones from Volvo. Noise persists. Increased oil viscosity, now at a ridiculous 15W40. Also using an oil additive to further increase viscosity. Little if any noise when engine is cold but once warm, much valve clicking. We change oil religiously and keep oil topped up.
View 7 RepliesI am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
My 2009 Sonata 2.4l Sonata has been making a loud knocking noise when it is cold, but it will fade to almost nothing after it warms up. I tried to make a sound clip of the noise, but it was so distorted that I could not even make out the noise on the video.
For some strange reason the noise matches the skipping problem I have been complaining about since the beginning. Yea it's still there. It sounds like it is in the valve system, not the lower end. It leads me to believe it's coming from the valve clearance/ camshaft area.
So my 2012 plugin was parked for about 3 days, and when I turned it on, heard loud knocking and the check engine light came and stayed on.
When switching the car on or off, I'll hear two taps/ticks that were not there before. Loud knocking is not there now.
What can the issue be? It was very cold and snowing.
We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
Fiance's 09 Corolla S just started having a rattle/knock noise this evening. car has 123k. It's clearly an engine internal sound. I believe it is coming from the cylinder head. She called me when it started making the noise, she shut it off and has only been ran enough to get it on and off the trailer.
Not sure if it's a broken valve spring or valve. or the timing chain guides? It threw a CEL light.
I ran the code on my scanner and it came back with: P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
There's a thread similar to this on the front page, but I wouldn't exactly describe my issue as a "rattle".
I've got a good video of the sound it's making here : [URL] .....
It's definitely much louder with the hood up--doesn't seem quite as drastic when sitting in the driver's seat.
I've come across the thread here on the engine rattle/knock fix, but I'm not sure if this is the same thing. Would this be considered a knock?
It's a 2011 Elantra with about 82,000 miles on the odometer. It has an extended warranty on it, in addition to the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty on it, so it's at the dealership this morning.
My son owns a 2008 Nissan Altima with about 110,000 miles. The engine has a ticking noise that is louder and faster when the car accelerates. It is worse when the car is cold. Once it warms up, the noise will get less and even goes away. Valves? Doesn't seem to be tire related and we recently had the belts checked and replaced when needed.
View 3 Replies1992 Celica with about 130k miles.
The brake pedal pulsates at a rate directly proportional to how fast the car is going. How violent the pulsing is depends on how hard you apply the pedal but even at less than 5mph and even when barely applying the brake you can feel it in the pedal.
I've had this before on other vehicles and the fix was swapping rotors. Rotors are cheap enough for it so I changed the front and then the rear with no real change from either swap. As part of the swap I wire brushed the face of the hubs to make sure there wasn't rust buildup on them. Replaced a wheel bearing on the passenger front as it had some play in it. Swapped tie rod ends as they had some play. Bled brakes enough to refresh the fluid.
The changes have made it drive a little better (at least I like to think they did) but the pedal is almost completely unchanged.
I think that to feel it in the pedal it has to be an irregularity in the rotor or something else causing the piston in the caliper to move.
I own a 2006 GS300 for 4 years and I have about 90k miles on it. Just suddenly today when I went to go turn the car on, I hear a rapid loud clicking noise and the engine will not start. I've done some googling and one possible solution is to disconnect the battery to let the car reset and then connect it back. What the cause is? I've replaced the spark plugs a few months ago, but I didn't replace the battery.
View 13 RepliesI just got caught in the rain, literally, a freeway ramp was partially flooded, saw other cars go through a "puddle" and with safety distance proceeded. About 9 feet away from the edge of this water accumulation my engine sputtered and turned off on me and I recall seeing some, but not much white smoke coming out of the hood. I didn't leave the car as when I look right next to me I saw only water, about 1/2 the height of my tire surrounding me. AAA came pretty fast and pulled me out of that wet mess and mentioned it could be just as simple as overheating. It's about 2 hours later and I tried my engine but all it does is struggling to turn on. I turned it off immediately. I checked my coolant level - empty as it can get, and also my dipstick in the oil seems to be not right. Transmission fluid is fine though. Could those two fluids be the problem to why my engine is not starting? Or could it be that something got too wet? Once I turn the key in the 1 position shows electricity is fine and all lights come on with Overdrive and SRS going off after a short while. 1992 Volvo 240 ...
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