All of the gauges - - temp, speedometer, tach, gas gauge - - as well as the dome lights and sun roof opener, faded out on my 2003 Volvo V70. I replaced all the fuses and the dome light and sunroof now work. But none of the gauges are back. Can it be fixed without replacing the console?
View 15 RepliesSo my girlfriend drives my car to work and today she called me and said that the instrument panel isn't working. No gas gauge, odometer, tach, or anything!
View 2 RepliesI own a 1992 Jeep Wrangler that I'm currently trying to fix up. A major problem is that my the gauges and lights on my dashboard don't work correctly. My MPH and RPM gauges work fine, but my gas gauge and the three gauges next to it don't. they just sit at about a 1/4 full. Also the lights on my dashboard don't turn on when my headlights are on. So like when I'm driving at night with my headlights on my dashboard is pitch black. The lights have come on randomly before, but then don't work again the next time i drive with my headlights.
View 1 RepliesGot an 07 Camry V6 XLE - the dashboard is intermittent sometimes one gauge works, sometimes all gauges work, and every combination you can think of......
Car seems to run ok - battery has good voltage Alternator seems to work - discontented and clean the battery - checked all fuses....
I have a F-150 2005, since 3 mo. ago when I turn it on, all the gauges in the dashboard start "twinkling" and after 5 sec. return to normal operation. What's the reason? Do I have to worry?
View 3 RepliesI own a 1994 Honda Accord with 200,000+ miles on it. Suddenly the Dashboard controls stopped working, and the shift lever wont shift out of Park unless I manually force it to shift by inserting key in to the slot beside the shift lever. I suspect it has something to do with the brake fuse. Where the break fuse is located.
View 1 RepliesI have 2006 Pt. Cruiser Touring with 150,000 miles on it. It has been well cared for with oil changes, tire rotations, tune ups, and preventative maintenance done regularly.
My problem is this. Sometimes when I drive the vehicle, all the warning lights on the dash board will light up, and all the gauges go dead. But the car keeps running and does not decelerate or lose power. The lights shut off within 3-6 seconds, with the seat belt lights being the last to go out. I have paid over $600 dollars for 6 hook ups to the computer at the dealer with no codes showing.
I have just replaced the belts, cam & crank sensors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, alternator, hoses, water pump, timing belt, and it still does this. This morning when driving to an appointment, it did this again 3 times within 5 minutes. I had activated the cruise control when it did this. When I turned the cruise control off, it did not do it again. But in the past, this has happened when I was not using the cruise control. And it happens at all speeds, 60, 20, 35, or 40 MPH. What is wrong with my car.
I have an F 150 2002 Trition V-8. I always thought I knew how to read an instrument panel on a vehicle but after being put down by my Ford, I have to rethink this knowledge.
I have noticed over the past 4 years that my volt meter guage on the instrument panel always stayed in the same place whether the motor was running or just the key in the on position. I noticed that a little battery icon kept coming on and going out yesterday. I read the owner's manual and it said something like this indicates your battery is not taking a charge correctly. Well why has the guage not told me anything. Well the alternator has quit but yet and still the guage is still showing me all is well.
I ask a Ford dealer service dept. about this and they do not have a clue. All they tell me is people do not pay attention to the guage but when the light comes on they need. They also said the gauge would work when everything shuts down, but man! I don't need it to work then. I know it's broken when that happens. It quits running.
What is the purpose of the gauge sitting there all shiny and pretty if it is not going to say anything other than "HEY MAN! I am just here looking pretty and taking up space".
I have looked at other trucks and they do the same thing. Nothing .. What is going on with this gauge which undoubtedly does nothing?
I was poking around the center console and noticed that there seems to be a pretty big gap difference where the console meets the dashboard than I would expect on a Lexus:
So how does it look on yours? Are yours even on both sides?
I picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
This is my wfe's 2001 XC70 with 110,000 miles on it. Problem on hand: While drive (only 10 minutes), dash lightS n gauges all went out, power window, lock, sunroof out also, but engine, headlight, n radio still worked. Popped the following warning light; check engine, ABS. This happened twice within a week.
Dealer's recommedation: Took to dealer, they looked at me like I had 4 heads or something. Ran test, told me a bunch of codes popped up but can not replicate the problem. Recommendations was to replace CEM, catalytic converter, driver seat belt. This is a $3,000+ repair that they "think" should fix it. "think"""""" Told them I would think about it. They reset all the warning lights n car ran fine for about 1 month, and have since happened 2 more times while my wife is driving it around with our son. I have also experienced myself, the floor light would stay on as though a door was opened. No power windows or locks.
Leading to the bigger problem: Leading to this problem, I documented the following electrical issues for a few months: -Blower motor running at full speed when I first enter the car after it sat all night in my driveway. -Using the windshield fluid function made the rear speakers produced static sounds, but stop as soon as I let go of the washer fluid lever. -Driver heated seat motor failed twice and left unfixed after second time. -Power window both driver side and passenger would roll up with one touch, but come right back down by itself as though its hitting something. -Note, the above happened here and there, never at the same time. We have own this Volvo for just 1 year. Otherwise love this car. Now what? I don't know what to do, and I think this could be unsafe for the wife and child as their daily commute. What do you think? Any Volvo mechanics here? Is it worth fixing? A, I coming up a guhe waterfall or just a little ripple? We don't have $3000 to try the fix only to have to drop another 1-2k more.
I have a 2004 Yaris 4 door auto and when driving smoke started to come from the dash around the centre speedo console, and by the windscreen then from all around dash. Had to stop left it 15 mins started ok no more smoke but smells still. Its been 2 days since it happened and been ok. All electrics seem to work ok. It was not from engine bay the car has only done 15 000 miles.
View 2 RepliesI drive an 84 242--something bad happened when I was driving from Baltimore to Phoenix. Mostly it is now that I live in a very hot desert. But the thing with the car involved a short period (15 seconds) where smoke came out of the center console (behind the heating controls). After this the headlights didn't work. Everything else in the car works fine. I've checked the fuses--they are all good (both visual and by running a battery and flashlight bulb through it on the lighting fuses).
Of course when the headlights are off there isn't an issue. The lights are off. When I turn the headlight knob to the driving lights (center position) the parking lights come on. It is when I turn the knob to the headlights (rightmost) position that things go wrong--not only do the headlights not come on, but the parking lights go off.
Could this be the switch? Or more likely the step relay?
My dashboard turns off . I have it disassembled and redo all welds. But nothing changed. However, disconnecting some lamps, it light on . Do you think that can come from L4925N ?
View 1 RepliesI own a 2005 volvo s40 i5. Recently I noticed that my dashboard gets extremely hot after just couple minutes of driving. Originally I thought this has something to do with the car's black interior. However, my suspicion changed when I noticed that the dashboard became very hot even on cold rainy days. (Below 60 degrees) This presented couple issues while driving.
1) On cold days, my windshield would fog up very easily.
2) on hot days, the cabin of the car can be intolerably hot. Both of my check engine light and my airbag warning lights are on.
However, auto mechanics cannot diagnose the problem because they can't get a reading through the diagnostic scanner. They said most likely the car has a electrical short somewhere.
What the problem is? Could it be an electrical short that cause excessive heat in the dash? Maybe the engine heat is venting into the dashboard? Fix?
I have an 02 S60 T5. Everything on my dash is dead. It on occasion works for a minute in the morning when extremely cold but then as always the ABS light comes on with the red exclamation mark below or above it and the message centre saying brake failure, please stop immediately. Of course no break failure, when it the dash does work all functions work fine. But the most I get out of it is a minute or so. It does not track mph and speed/odometer does not work, message centre etc.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 V70XC, and all of the dashboard instruments have completely gone out, no speedometer, gas guage, odometer, etc. My Volvo mechanic doesn't want to touch this, he says that the whole thing needs to be replaced, and I should go to a dealer. I can't believe that this is that bad?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 VOLVO TRACTOR, Autoshift, Cummins ISX. Recently the Dashboard only works at "cold" condition, after 5~20 minutes of starting the engine, the information Display shows up: check lights control module, check vehicle ECU, check air bag, check climate module, finally show "check datalink". Speedmetre, RPM, oil pressure, water temperature gauges and gear position are all dead, only Fuel, Air, Pressure and Turbo gauges work. We have replaced new dashboard, but nothing changed. And we checked J1939 communication wire OHMS is 60 at either back of dashboard plugs and data link. All modules are working good except information module. When dash was out, we did connect the laptop via datalink. We could communicate with ECU normally. The problem looks like the dashboard is so sensitive and easily quits working. We had checked batteries and main ground cables and all fuses. We did the test, after removing all lights control module fuses, ABS module fuse, climate fuse etc., the dashboard sometimes works
View 3 RepliesI have had an S60 since 2001, 2.0 petrol first and then a 2003 D5.
I am having problems with my message center and my indicator. The message center won't display anything. It just a mass of jumbled letter moving about. The indicator lights and sound won't work on the dashboard although they are working fine outside.
The dealer say that a new dashboard is needed, which is very expensive. Any fix to this? a reboot maybe?
My "bulb out" dashboard indicator came on and after checking all lights I could not find a burnt out bulb. I took the car to the local dealer and they told me the "bulb failure relay" was bad and needed replacing. I decided to try and replace it myself but so far I'm not doing to good.
I found this picture on another website and also read that the realy is permantly mounted to the relay board. Also, when I looked at pictures of the replacement relay they lok nothing like the original.
So now I'm wondering how the heck do you take the old relay out and get the new one in that doesn't at all look like the original?
Attached File(s) : RelayPanel760960A.gif ( 31.06K )
I first thought it was just a cold thing, but now it's not starting at all in a warmed garaged. The electrical system seems to go in and out, makes this crazy clicking kind of noise, and eventually will make the dashboard lights go entirely, the message system saying then the breaks have failed, pull over, etc., On a cold morning it won't crank, and when it finally does it will immediately shut off. Once I finally overcome it, the electrical system clicks and clicks, and eventually will lose dashboard lights and functions... no turn signal, nothing.
If I can get driving for 15 minutes or so without the electrical interference happening, it will run fine like normal and I can restart the car fine the rest of the day... but the next morning (especially if cold) I go through the process again.
Now it's just not cranking at all...it's clicking, but it sounds like a louder clicking than a dead battery... it's like the electrical system is overriding it entirely and won't let me get the car started at all.
Other symptoms: when I get the key near the ignition (not putting it in) the clicking of the electric system starts. Interior lights flicker, etc. Today it won't start.