Xb - Scion - Wheels :: Shaking Front End Around 70 - 80 Mph / Tires Not Balanced
Mar 5, 2011
I have a 2006 scion xb with 106000 miles. It has 17" custom wheels on it. When I test drove it I noticed some vibration up front and assumed the tires were not balanced good. I rotated the tires and noticed a slight difference but it still shakes around 70-80mph. I cant feel any vibration from the back of the car. Sometimes at 65 mph it's fine, other times it will shake. Since the shake isn't at 65 all the time, could my problem be worn out struts?
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Had the tires balanced, still shakes. Had them balanced and tires rotated on the wheels for optimum placement. Still shakes, no visible bubbles for tread seperation. What to check next?
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Ok,I have brought my car (2005 Toyota Echo) into the shop three times and they can't figure it out. I have summer and winter tires. Last summer the summer tires were fine, the winter tires were fine, then I changed the front tires, and couldn't remove the back tires (I hit them with a hammer and 2x4 and they didn't come off). From that point on my car has vibrated at around 60mph, but not 100% of the time.
I took the car in to the mechanic, they changed the back tire for me and balanced the front...still vibrates, they then balanced the back...still vibrates. Now they say the disk rotor is bent, and want to fix that but aren't sure that will fix the problem. What's going on, I changed the front tires and now the car vibrates at high speed most of the time, but not all the time.
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I just got new rotiform BLQ rims and nexen tires. I have the hub rings and the setup was balanced and aligned (double checked).
Before this I had 3 bent TSW rims and got a pretty bad shake in the wheel around 65-70 mph. Before or after that speed everything is smooth now.
Why would this shake still occur.
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I think I need to have them done some where else. but around 65-70mph my wheels shakes. even after alignment!!!
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When I drive on the highway usually between 60-70mph there is a noticeable vibration similar to when a wheel is off balance. I just mounted a new set of wheels (with tires) which were just balanced and it still does it. I had the dealer do an inspection of the suspension while it was in for the recall but they found nothing unusual.
Could this be a strut bearing that went bad? Over a year ago I did hit a very big pothole that bent one of my aftermarket wheels, I had an alignment done afterwards too. However, I first noticed the vibration about 2 months ago while the stock 18" wheels were on.
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I just can't get my 2007 to drive like a Lexus. At 75-85 I get a vibration. I've had one rim worked on. They said it was bent. So they fixed that and I STILL get a vibration in the steering and in the seat.
I've had the tires balanced by a Lexus dealer. That worked quite a bit, but it still vibrates. Where to take this car?
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When I had this set of tires rotated and balanced for the first time I picked up a vibration. I can feel it through the steering wheel and the floor, it starts about 40 or 45 mph. It is not severe but it is annoying. The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus size 215/45-17, they had about 9K miles on them when I had them rotated. Before they were rotated they were as smooth as glass.
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My 2007 ES350 will not stop shaking at 75-80 MPH and when I decelerate it shakes till I get to 60.
They found the left read rim to be bent but I didn't expect the shake to be in the front. Both tires have been balanced and the rims are fine.
Could the transmission cause this problem?
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I have a 2003 chevy impala ls, now I felt wobbling in the front more on the right a few weeks ago and it started getting worse especially when I would brake, I had it looked at by a mechanic who shook,twirled, yanked and examined my wheels and tires, and told me it just looked like I needed a new tire up there.So I went bought 2 new tires and had them out on. When they did it they took the rim from the right and rotated it to the left side. I drove off thinking the wobble was gone , but I still feel it. Now it feels like it's on the left side not as bad but you can still feel it constantly........ So I guess my question would be is the problem the rim itself then?
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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After getting rid of my front end shaking problems with some new tires the installer blamed the directional tires.
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Have been battling this for months. Thought it was warped rotors, but has continued to go crazy. Truck is fine until braking at freeway speeds to 0 at about 35 front end goes crazy with shakes. Wheels physically wobble. Thought it was bearings replaced them. Put on rancho 9000 shocks replaced all steering and tie rods had aligned. Put on EDC slotted and drilled rotors with yellow stuff pads, new calipers. Each time worked for about 15 miles than started again until crazy wobble. Scaring the wife and kids to point they will no longer ride in truck. Steering is now slack need to adjust and probably need to look at everything again but it still is rectifying symptoms not problem.
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I purchased a used 2003 Echo last week. The all season tires are on 15 inch rims. I would like to buy snow tires for this car. The question is - snow tires on 15 in rims or snow tires on 14 in rims? I understand that 15 inch rims was an option selected on the original purchase. Without this option, the car would have had 14 inch rims.
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I am experiencing some noise coming from tires or wheels or both. I had a pair of nexen n3000 that lasted about 30,000 miles.
Last week I replaced them with Hankook Verus V12 255 45 18 that seemed to be a high rated tire by multiple sources. After I had them put on and road force balaced, It seemed like the right rear or passenger tire were making a noise that became pretty loud at 45 miles an hour thru to about 60 and then started to quiet down a little.
I then needed to replace the control arms on the front tires(front and rear; btw I have a great place that will get the parts very cheap if you need the control arms) So I had them replaced, and had the car aligned.
After all of that, I drove the car about 100 miles and it still was making noise. The dealership said the noise wasn't the wheel bearings, and that it was probably the high performance tire I had on it.
So I went to discount tire and they replaced them for me with Continental Extreme contact DWS tires that are rates much better and everyone that has reviewed them says they are quiet and have a good tread wear life.
But I just drove 5 miles on them, and they have the same problem. So either it is a coincidence the both sets of tires are bad. (which is unlikely)
Or: Wheel bearings are worn? Pressure isn't right(i have 38 on the front 35 on the rear)? Or another component I'm not accounting for.
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I bought a 2007 Saturn ION Coupe the end of December 2006. I have had the car 4 mos and keep experiencing a wobbling when driving between 4-10 mph (traffic). They have balanced and aligned my car 4 times since I bought the car, once a month (it needs service every month I commute 1,000 mile a week). It seems to work for a short while and then the problem continues. They have checked everything, rotors, wheels, tires, etc.
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I took my car to my usual trusty mechanic. Trusty asked where I had had the last rotation done. All the lug nuts were overtightened. The manual says to tighten to 96 pound-feet (that’s a measure of torque).All the nuts were tightened well past this. Many came loose at 200 foot-pounds. More at 300 foot-pounds (that’s as high as they wanted to go with their pneumatic torque wrench). There were still 5 nuts that didn’t budge. They brought out the manual torque wrench and muscled 4 of those loose. But one on the left rear wheel wouldn’t come loose.
So they made it a 3-wheel rotation, and left the left-rear wheel in place. I had a puncture driving over a piece of road junk last spring out of state and had to buy a new tire. Clearly the people at Roadside Tire had no clue (although why they messed with the other three wheels is a mystery. But although the left rear is the newest tire, i still don't want to have to trade the car in when the tire is worn! Nor do I want to trash out the rest of the assembly. What to do?
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I have a horrendous squealing noise coming from one of my rear wheels. Sounds bad at low speeds, changes frequency to higher pitch when going faster. The sound isn't constant (some times nothing), other times loud as hell. Sometimes gets worse when turning, then nothing when straightened out. When breaking, sometimes the sound gets worse, then goes away. It doesn't sound like a bad wheel bearing (had one go before- more of a growly noise). This sound is too high pitched. Also, checked the brake pads (plenty of life left), and rotors are good too.
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I have a 2011 Prius. I put 15" aftermarket summer wheels on it and a vibration appeared The wheels and tires have been rebalanced many times. Wheel alignment has been done, wheels replaced, tires replaced but the vibration is still there. I am now back to the OEM and the vibration is still there.
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2007 Passat wagon with TPMS. Getting new sensors and a set of winter tires and wheels.
Can I ad the new sensors the my Passat using a VagCom or some other method?
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my car is basically bone stock (2010 Corolla S). I'm looking at getting Eibach lowering springs fairly soon, and later on new tires/wheels. My question is what are the biggest wheels and tires I can get after I install these springs? Will 17" rims fit? Or does it depend on the tire as well?
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