Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Violent Shaking When Engaging Clutch
Apr 5, 2015
I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport V6 with a 5-speed and 4wd (mechanically Identical to the Ranger) and I've been having a problem ever since the new clutch was put in.
The previous clutch cracked in some way and took the pressure plates with it, so it has an all new clutch and plates, installed by a friend who has a shop. Ever since getting the new hardware, I get a violent vibration when letting out the clutch in First or Reverse from a stop. Friend says it's probably the flywheel, and that fixing it is more trouble than it's worth-- just live with it. If I rev the throttle a bit while letting off the clutch, it engages much more smoothly, but if I do this at idle it shakes violently.
The one weird thing is that it doesn't do this when the engine is cold. For the first ten minutes of driving, the clutch engages smoothly like any other car, but as the engine comes up to temp the shaking returns. This doesn't sound like the flywheel to me.
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2007 Ford F150
XLT 5.4L Supercab
55,500 miles
Only Owner
I have owned my truck since mile 1 and have not had any issues up to this point. That being said in 2011 there have been 5 occassions where I have been on interstate driving between 55-70 and had to pull over due to my truck shaking. This shaking is very extreme and truly scares me, thus the reason I pull over. I replaced my tires with Michelin 70,000 mile tires and also replace my front brakes just over a year ago.
After not being able to reproduce the shake for my mechanic, they said my upper front ball joint needed replaced and my rear shocks. They hooked the truck up to the computer and did not receive any codes and my check engine light has not come on to this point.
The research I have conducted to this point has pointed to a number of issues and I had my mechanic check all of them and they said nothing was out of the ordinary, these were: e-brake issues, front brakes, calipers, plugs/coils.
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Just replaced a badly worn Hub on my 98 AWD Explorer. The grinding noise is gone but now the steering is binding/shaking during stopped or low speed turns. What is going on or what I might have done wrong?
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I have a 2008 Ford Focus with 122k miles in good condition, nothing ever replaced except an engine mount, shocks, and coolant thermostat and all regular maintenance.
In the last four months I have had a few instances of the car shaking during my commute. Only happens when I am either stopped at an exit ramp or stopped during heavy traffic on the highway. It can happen anywhere from 10-30 minutes into my commute. Feels like either the road is shaking from an earthquake or godzilla is standing behind it and pushing it back and forth. It's very strong but very smooth and slow. Like being on a boat. There is no vibration in the steering wheel or any other parts and no noise associated with it. It goes away once I start driving again.
I had a cracked engine mount once that produced a lot of vibration and rattling, and this shaking doesn't feel or sound anything remotely like that one, so I am doubtful that it has the do with the mounts (just had that one replaced a couple months ago anyway).
This is also extremely intermittent. Maybe once a month at most, although the time span in between occurrences seems to be shorter so that's why I am investigating. And when it happens, it's just once during my entire drive and then not again for another few weeks or so. So it would be hard to take it into a mechanic to reproduce.
What could this be? I've been thinking about getting a new car and this has me worried that I'm entering into the timeframe with this one where major things start breaking.
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I've had this truck since 2011. Ran great when I got it. Ive had problems with the calipers and I've replaced both the fronts. I keep up on changing the oil regularly. The manifolds started rusting away a little over a year ago. Not happening... The shaking started recently after I pulled a trailer with 2.5 tons of shingles on 2 separate occasions.
That being said, I can feel a little shaking while idling. It was really only bad between 500 and 2000rpms. After 2000 it almost felt like a turbo and it would accelerate really fast and smooth until the gears switched. I figured i should change the oil. Now the shaking is more violent.
Its a 2000 f150 5.4 v8....
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Girlfriend got a 98 ex. got a CEL for a torque converter clutch circuit. Changed out the TCC and the light is still on. I don't know what to do next.
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I purchased a 2011 ford f250 6.7 diesel today from a dealer in indiana. During test drive i noticed a shudder when i was doing over 60 and i immediately brought truck back and told seller about it.so he gets in and we drive it got it over 60 i hit brakes.it shuddered again but not as bad.long story short seller said it was prob a shock or strut or ball joint.
So I bought the truck anyhow and during the 600 mile drive back home and only when i was in top gear the truck would shudder when i hit a large bump.i would then slow way down to under 40mph and it would go back to driving normal.it did this a couple times but i noticed if i kept it under 60 it didnt seem to happen when i hit bumps.
So I get all the way home and check engine light comes on and i mean literally as soon as i got home from 600 mile drive. I plugged in my engine diagnostic tool and it shows a P0284 code. Are these things related? I called the dealer back and he says the truck is as is but he will look into it. I don't want to do further damage driving.
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I have recently been having violent shaking when I make a turn to pull into a parking spot or turn at a stop sign. I can park my truck and the truck continues to shake until I turn the motor off. When I restart the truck it runs fine. It doesn't do this all the time just sometimes. I have a 2006 Ford F-150 lariat 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2002 F250 with the 5.4 triton engine. Automatic transmission. When I reach 35 mph (sometimes sooner) the truck will shake horribly when I reach lower rpms. It will do this up to 65 mph and then it mostly stops. Completely taking my foot off the gas will stop the shaking, as well as shifting into neutral.
I know for sure that the truck has a cylinder 3 misfire as well as a minor exhaust leak, could either of these be causing it? Don't have the money to fix either of the problems for another couple weeks, is it safe to drive until then or should I play it safe?
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1995 Chrysler LHS
I have a shake in the front end. It is similar to driving on a rocky surface and it shakes the whole vehicle. It occurs between 40 and 55 MPH and when I'm climbing a hill. At other speeds it is fine. If I let off the gas then it is fine as it coasts, even at those defined speeds.
I've replaced the struts and the wheel bearings and an outer tie rod. I had the front end aligned and balanced the two front tires.
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Whenever I am driving my Subaru Impreza, the steering wheel shakes above 60mph and is a violent shake at 65mph making it unbearably frustrating to drive to school each day. Recently I had slipped on ice and hit a curb with the tires on the right side of the car. I took it to a shop to get the rims looked at, and ended up replacing the back right. The mechanic said nothing about the front one however. My question to you is; could it be that the front rim is also bent? Or that it could just be a buildup of ice. It is cold here, snows often and is never above 20F.
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I have noticed a serious bump steer or a violent jerking action when hitting a bump in the road. Just over a year ago I replaced ball joints,tie rods, sway bar links (2nd set since cutting off original). I used MOOG components. I was shocked to see the sway bar links loose once again. Is there a certain way to tighten them or is there a better product available. Mostly stock 1999 'ploder with fire wires and scremin demon coil pack.
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My car begins to shake violently and hum loudly at anything over 70mph. It used to be 80mph but it has slowly gotten worse. I have checked the motor mounts and none appear to be cracked or broken. I have also had tires balanced and replaced, rims replaced, and the problem continues to persist. I was curious if the right axle could be warped? or this issue may be caused by damage wheel bearings. At any rate it has gotten unbearable decided to finally extinguish the problem.
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My wife's having trouble with her '02 Explorer 4x4 V8 XLT.
Today I experienced a violent steering wheel shudder that I would describe as the old "death wobble" you hear about on solid axle trucks, Early Broncos, Jeeps, etc.
At 55mph, in a slight right hand turn, a little bit of a bump in the road triggered it. I held on to it as the steering wheel was rotating left and right a few degrees (maybe ~10deg) and it wouldn't stop until I slowed down to around 35mph.
I crawled underneath and didn't see anything obviously bad (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc).
Then I noticed when turning the steering wheel (with the engine running, but parked) I could feel it shuddering slightly as I turned it.
The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise so I wonder if its on the way out.
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I have a 2010 Escape and the a/c clutch stopped engaging I've checked all fuse's and swapped relay's around. I need to know how to jump the low pressure switch I would like to figure this out.
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I am having a problem with my 1998 F150 4x4. The 4WD is not engaging. It is a manual shift. I have checked the transfer case by turning the drive shaft in 2WD it is free. When I shift into 4WD it is does not spin freely. So I believe that is OK. I have checked the vaccum diaphram. It will move the piston when I attach a hose and pull vacuum on the inboard hose barb. So I believe the diaphram it self is OK. I am not sure if the hoses and selenoids are OK. They look fine. However there is a constant vacuum on the inboard hose line (red/pink color) wether I am in 4WD or not. Is this OK? How can I check the selenoids. If all this is OK, the next thing I believ it could be is the shift fork in the differential. Is that a difficult job? Do you need to pull the whole axle out to replace it?
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Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
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Here is my problem: A/C not blowing cold air, blower motor working fine, checked all relevant fuses for A/C and R202 relay under the hood. Everything is fine here. Next, low pressure switch, jumped, clutch does not engage. Next removed relay R202 (clutch relay) measured voltages (at female sockets) where pins 1 and 3 would go, voltage OK. Jumped where pins 3 and 5 would go (bypass to see if clutch engages) and it does. Appears that the pressure switches check out OK (low pressure and A/C cycling switch - although this one not sure). CarMD unit was used as well, and no codes generated so perhaps PCM is working OK? I'm stumped, as a loss of GND by PCM or perhaps a corroded or open wire issue??
Also, possible the A/C switch on the HVAC control could be bad, but the light comes on, (doesn't mean switch is good necessarily). The rest of that unit works fine, control ***** that is, fan speed adjusts properly, air flow looks good. It appears this is an electrical problem where the clutch is not getting juice but I don't know the source of the problem. However, I also noticed that when the clutch/compressor was running (temporarily as described above) cold air still didn't come out. This, I assume, would mean I would need to add refrigerant or re-charge the A/C AFTER I get the clutch to engage electrically. 2004 F-150 5.4L ....
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soo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
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So that's what if feels like, in park at idle it sounds great, starts great no codes. IF you floor it it will not go over 3000 rpms in park, it feels like it has hit a rev limiter. I have 60psi fuel pressure at idle and at 3000 rpm.
When driving down the road I won't go over 55 mph and drives normal if you keep it under 3000 rpm, if you give it more gas it falls on its face?
AC is not working (clutch not engaging)I don't know if that's related or not.
We did just swap the motor the truck is a 2003 2wd drive. motor came out of an 2002 4wd. we are running the 2wd harness, computer egr delete etc.
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My parent's bought a 2002 Explorer 4.0 V6 very early, either late '01 or early '02 when it first came out. Besides the dash blackout (which I found a fix for, need to do) it's been plauged latley (since Nov/Dec 2010) with the intermittent issue of when... You turn the key on to start, you dont hear the fuel pump enguage, thus no start. Get towed, it works like a champ.
It's blown a fuse 1 or 2 times cause of this, had the fuel pump recently replaced (dec/jan this year) and just did it again. Our local Ford dealership figured the fuel pump went bad from sitting, the vehicle only has about 33k miles on it (dad dont drive much). What appears to be a bad fuel pump, only to have it get towed, or sit overnight and start like nothing ever happened?
Dad's ranting about not trusting the vehicle anymore, he's 80yrs old so I can't blame him for wanting to feel comfortable with knowing his vehicle should start, but it is a machine, they do break but we cant seem to get this fixed.
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