Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Violent Shaking At 50 - 70 MPH
May 25, 2011
2007 Ford F150
XLT 5.4L Supercab
55,500 miles
Only Owner
I have owned my truck since mile 1 and have not had any issues up to this point. That being said in 2011 there have been 5 occassions where I have been on interstate driving between 55-70 and had to pull over due to my truck shaking. This shaking is very extreme and truly scares me, thus the reason I pull over. I replaced my tires with Michelin 70,000 mile tires and also replace my front brakes just over a year ago.
After not being able to reproduce the shake for my mechanic, they said my upper front ball joint needed replaced and my rear shocks. They hooked the truck up to the computer and did not receive any codes and my check engine light has not come on to this point.
The research I have conducted to this point has pointed to a number of issues and I had my mechanic check all of them and they said nothing was out of the ordinary, these were: e-brake issues, front brakes, calipers, plugs/coils.
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I have recently been having violent shaking when I make a turn to pull into a parking spot or turn at a stop sign. I can park my truck and the truck continues to shake until I turn the motor off. When I restart the truck it runs fine. It doesn't do this all the time just sometimes. I have a 2006 Ford F-150 lariat 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2008 Ford Focus with 122k miles in good condition, nothing ever replaced except an engine mount, shocks, and coolant thermostat and all regular maintenance.
In the last four months I have had a few instances of the car shaking during my commute. Only happens when I am either stopped at an exit ramp or stopped during heavy traffic on the highway. It can happen anywhere from 10-30 minutes into my commute. Feels like either the road is shaking from an earthquake or godzilla is standing behind it and pushing it back and forth. It's very strong but very smooth and slow. Like being on a boat. There is no vibration in the steering wheel or any other parts and no noise associated with it. It goes away once I start driving again.
I had a cracked engine mount once that produced a lot of vibration and rattling, and this shaking doesn't feel or sound anything remotely like that one, so I am doubtful that it has the do with the mounts (just had that one replaced a couple months ago anyway).
This is also extremely intermittent. Maybe once a month at most, although the time span in between occurrences seems to be shorter so that's why I am investigating. And when it happens, it's just once during my entire drive and then not again for another few weeks or so. So it would be hard to take it into a mechanic to reproduce.
What could this be? I've been thinking about getting a new car and this has me worried that I'm entering into the timeframe with this one where major things start breaking.
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I've had this truck since 2011. Ran great when I got it. Ive had problems with the calipers and I've replaced both the fronts. I keep up on changing the oil regularly. The manifolds started rusting away a little over a year ago. Not happening... The shaking started recently after I pulled a trailer with 2.5 tons of shingles on 2 separate occasions.
That being said, I can feel a little shaking while idling. It was really only bad between 500 and 2000rpms. After 2000 it almost felt like a turbo and it would accelerate really fast and smooth until the gears switched. I figured i should change the oil. Now the shaking is more violent.
Its a 2000 f150 5.4 v8....
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport V6 with a 5-speed and 4wd (mechanically Identical to the Ranger) and I've been having a problem ever since the new clutch was put in.
The previous clutch cracked in some way and took the pressure plates with it, so it has an all new clutch and plates, installed by a friend who has a shop. Ever since getting the new hardware, I get a violent vibration when letting out the clutch in First or Reverse from a stop. Friend says it's probably the flywheel, and that fixing it is more trouble than it's worth-- just live with it. If I rev the throttle a bit while letting off the clutch, it engages much more smoothly, but if I do this at idle it shakes violently.
The one weird thing is that it doesn't do this when the engine is cold. For the first ten minutes of driving, the clutch engages smoothly like any other car, but as the engine comes up to temp the shaking returns. This doesn't sound like the flywheel to me.
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So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
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I purchased a 2011 ford f250 6.7 diesel today from a dealer in indiana. During test drive i noticed a shudder when i was doing over 60 and i immediately brought truck back and told seller about it.so he gets in and we drive it got it over 60 i hit brakes.it shuddered again but not as bad.long story short seller said it was prob a shock or strut or ball joint.
So I bought the truck anyhow and during the 600 mile drive back home and only when i was in top gear the truck would shudder when i hit a large bump.i would then slow way down to under 40mph and it would go back to driving normal.it did this a couple times but i noticed if i kept it under 60 it didnt seem to happen when i hit bumps.
So I get all the way home and check engine light comes on and i mean literally as soon as i got home from 600 mile drive. I plugged in my engine diagnostic tool and it shows a P0284 code. Are these things related? I called the dealer back and he says the truck is as is but he will look into it. I don't want to do further damage driving.
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I have a 2002 F250 with the 5.4 triton engine. Automatic transmission. When I reach 35 mph (sometimes sooner) the truck will shake horribly when I reach lower rpms. It will do this up to 65 mph and then it mostly stops. Completely taking my foot off the gas will stop the shaking, as well as shifting into neutral.
I know for sure that the truck has a cylinder 3 misfire as well as a minor exhaust leak, could either of these be causing it? Don't have the money to fix either of the problems for another couple weeks, is it safe to drive until then or should I play it safe?
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1995 Chrysler LHS
I have a shake in the front end. It is similar to driving on a rocky surface and it shakes the whole vehicle. It occurs between 40 and 55 MPH and when I'm climbing a hill. At other speeds it is fine. If I let off the gas then it is fine as it coasts, even at those defined speeds.
I've replaced the struts and the wheel bearings and an outer tie rod. I had the front end aligned and balanced the two front tires.
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Whenever I am driving my Subaru Impreza, the steering wheel shakes above 60mph and is a violent shake at 65mph making it unbearably frustrating to drive to school each day. Recently I had slipped on ice and hit a curb with the tires on the right side of the car. I took it to a shop to get the rims looked at, and ended up replacing the back right. The mechanic said nothing about the front one however. My question to you is; could it be that the front rim is also bent? Or that it could just be a buildup of ice. It is cold here, snows often and is never above 20F.
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My car begins to shake violently and hum loudly at anything over 70mph. It used to be 80mph but it has slowly gotten worse. I have checked the motor mounts and none appear to be cracked or broken. I have also had tires balanced and replaced, rims replaced, and the problem continues to persist. I was curious if the right axle could be warped? or this issue may be caused by damage wheel bearings. At any rate it has gotten unbearable decided to finally extinguish the problem.
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I was driving my f150 going down the highway. Cruise set at 110kmh. All of a sudden truck started shaking And sounded horrible. Shut off the cruise. Floored it.it misses fired like no tomorrow and no power, looked down check engine light was flashing. Then all of a sudden everything normal. Now its intermediate and light solid on. So I thought I will just I will hook up the code reader. And NOTHING it didn't turn On. No beep nothing. Tried 2 readers no connection. Trucks a 2005 ford f150 fx4 5.4 217600km on the clock
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I have a 2007 an at about 52mph the truck has a slight but irritating bounce (up an down) an after a while sickening. It maybe felt it was coming from the rear. So I had the rear tires balanced an the guy said my right rear tire had a bend to it. Well assuming that the balancing fixed the problem it did not. So I'm going to put on the spare to see if it still bounces what else should I do?
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I've done some research on the shaking that is occurring on my truck an it's a possibility that it's the e brake seizing up. I've read where everyone has taken it to the dealer to get it fixed ....
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Have a 2004 Fx4. Lately its been shaking violently when i accelerate. When I turn the overdrive off it stops.
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It seems like I am going thru brakes I just replaced my brakes in May and my Rotors in July and when I brake my truck shakes like crazy. Is it the brakes again or am I missing something.
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I have a 2006 F-150, V6, automatic transmission, a little over 214,000 miles. When I started it up this morning, no issues, but when I dropped it into reverse, it started shaking pretty bad. Got on the road and put it in drive, and the shaking continued, then the check engine light started flashing. Haven't had any problems up to this point. Checked all the fluids including the transmission fluid a few weeks ago and all was well.
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I have an '05 5.4L 3V and I was way to trusting in how it was running. BTW, I change the oil every 3 to 5 and have only driven highway miles, albeit a lot of them...155k! I bought it with 40k on it but was not aware of the plug change issue until I heard about it off-hand. I let the plug change go cuz it was running so well. Bad move.
Anyways, a few weeks ago it began to lose power and I suspected that the PCM was retarding the timing for some reason. Before I could get to the shop, the thing went nuts on me at 75mph. Started shaking and sputtering and throwing cel codes. I shut it down and after 5 minutes re-started. It seemed fine and actually was running a bit better. Took it in and the code was the 0302. #2 cyl misfire.
They also said the compression was very low on that cylinder and slightly low on 1,3 and 7 as well. I had them change the plugs and the #2 COP even though they said I needed a new engine and then I picked it up. Now the engine barely runs at all. It shakes violently, where to go from here. What should I do now? New engine?
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I have a 2004 F-150 5.4L V8 3v vin code 5. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic and know my way around engines. The longer I own this truck the worse the problem gets. I believe I've narrowed it down to the oil actuated timing chain tensioners. I get a really bad rattle with a shaking condition only after changing my oil. Other then that it runs perfectly. I'm guessing it's losing its prime and trying to build up oil pressure. Is there any way to hand prime those tensioners? Or should I just go ahead and replace the whole assembly?
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I have a 2006 F150 5.4 3v rattling and shaking excessively. I have installed two new cam phasers, two vct solinoids, two vct housings, flushed oil and installed motor craft oil and filter. This never happens if bank two vct is unplugged or in open loop. Monitioring vct's on ids only bank two is erratic. Also when I had vct housing off I blew regulated air through oil passage seems free.
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After my 2006 Ford F150 Lariet started shaking and pulsating when braking (38,000 miles) I took the truck to the Ford dealer and asked to have my brake pads checked. They came back and siad they looked fine and I had alot of wear left. Then I mentioned that is was shaking and asked them to check it again, they drove it and then said my rotors are warped and I need to replace the rotors and pads. I don't haul, tow or do anything crazy with it.
Now, here's my questions:
1. Can the rotors go bad and the brake pads be fine?
2. Should I go with a ceramic pad or stick with the OEM?
I'm just a female and don't want to be taken advantage of at the dealers. Cost is not an issue when purchasing a good product.
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