So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 RepliesI have an '09 Avalon with 34K miles. On braking we get a shudder. It's especially noticeable on gentle braking. I am pretty sure this is due to the brake rotors being warped or whatever the correct term is. Are these covered under warranty? I'm a skeptic and I feel sure the dealer will try and blame the tires but they are wearing evenly and are rotated every 5K. The ride is smooth when not braking so tire balance should not be an issue.
View 7 RepliesIt all started around 18,000 miles when I noticed a vibration under highway braking. I convinced myself that everything was fine for the time being and I would have the dealer inspect the brakes at my 20,000 service. Fast forward to the service and all four of my rotors were warped. The dealer turned them all and said I wouldn't have any more problems. The car sits at 28,500 miles now and I'm starting to get the same vibration sensation as I had at 18,000 miles. I'm definitely going to be bringing the car in for it's 30,000 mile service and I will bring up the issue again. What type of warranty is on the brakes as I hope they will replace the rotors this time.
View 14 RepliesRecently bought a 2001 Excursion 4x4 but failed to take it on the highway and get it up to speed. It shakes real bad around 65 but I can't tell exactly where the shake comes from. Here is what I've fixed so far. Balanced tires, Alignment, Fixed Steering Linkage, Balanced rear drive shaft, new shocks, new brake pads (slightly warped rotors but shakes w/o braking), lubed everything, replaced all fluids except transmission which was clean, no metal in any fluids, removed front driveshaft. Checked wheel bearing as best as I can.
View 5 RepliesI have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
My T&C strikes again... Now it shakes when braking at highway speeds (thinking rotors are warped and need changed), but today the brake light, traction control, and ABS lights all come on and stay on when I drive...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Chevy Malibu that gives through rotors every 6 months. I have replaced them 3 times now in 102,000 miles and had them turned multiple times. What happens is about 6,000 miles after I put new rotors on they warp and I get a violent vibration when braking at high speeds. I have been to 3 different dealerships and none of them can figure out why they continue to warp.
View 12 RepliesMy brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
View 6 RepliesWe have a 2006 F150 w/new engine, new everything but transmission and cat. converter. When driving in warm weather with the AC on and at low speeds or idle the engine will knock and want to cut out but you rev and turn off the AC and it stops. Only with AC on. We replaced fuel filter, fan throttle took to dealer and updated the software which it stopped for 3 days and started again today. Could it have to do with AC compressor or low refrigerant?
View 4 RepliesI've put 6k on the truck since the dealership replaced the front rotors and pads but they started to warp a few hundred miles ago. I do have a lift and new 37" tires so I was wondering what rotor / pad combo works best for larger tires and towing. I was looking at EBC kits but I'm sure there are better and cheaper options...
View 14 Replies I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I've tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I've already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints.
Another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I'm asking for a lot, but where to start?
I have an 03 Camry LE I4 with about just under 100k miles. Recently, under semi hard braking at highway speeds, the steering wheel will shake quite a bit to the point that I don't feel safe braking hard. I initially thought the brake rotors were warped, but those were replaced less than 2 years ago somewhere around 80k miles. I've taken it to many shops and here are the verdicts they've given me:
1. Rear drums are warped which is the problem (I don't think so...)
2. Control arm bushings need replacement (coming from shop who did brake work before)
3. Ball joints need to be replaced
4. All rotors should be resurfaced
What should I do?
Brake issues on 2005 F250. About 3 years ago during vehicle inspection the garage stated I need all for rotors on my F250. I had @40,000 miles at the time. Garage said rotors are a onetime use, no recutting them. So I got all new rotors. Prior to then I never even felt a wobble indicating they were warped. Anyhow now with 15,000 miles on them I have a huge wobble when I get on the brakes and it's 5x pronounced when pulling a trailer. I assume more warped rotors. If so, why? I pull a camper or car trailer maybe 7-10 times a year.
Now currently I am assuming its warped rotors because I have not had it "professionally" checked. I did have one occasion last August pulling the camper where I smelled the brakes being hot. The pedal got soft. After cooling it seemed ok and I flushed the old fluid and put in new. I have about 4100 miles since then and the warped feel just started about a month ago. I hate the thought of new rotors as I paid for new Ford rotors 3 years ago. Didn't want the Chinese crap from the box stores. I can't imagine how these would warp this bad after less than 15,000 miles, they are massive. Why they would so quickly?
06' 5.4 screw 100K... At 55mph my truck just stopped running, I pulled over to the side of the road and after two trys the truck restarted but ran rough. Auto Zone pulled a code that said replace the throttle position sensor, I did and the same thing happened again two weeks later just as before.
View 3 RepliesSo for the past few weeks, i was getting this weird vibration coming from my brake pedal.. When I am about at 40 mph driving and braking or even when I am slowing down with out braking it vibrates.. I checked my wheel bearings.. I don't think that it.. since my steering wheel is not shaking when i brake, i think my rear rotors would be warped..
Also my idle is weird on my car.. I switched my coils and plugs.. it jumps.. really slightly and there is a big one.. when I opened my hood up there is this weird noise like a rattling noise and that is when the idle jumps up and down.. something like this [URL]....
I have a 2007 F150 King Ranch Super Crew 5.4 3v and it makes a ticking sound. I have read about the VCT solenoids and the phasers. My issue is that the ticking noise can be heard at Highway speeds. At it seems to be quicker as the engine speed increase. Not sure what to think. No rough idle. What could this be.
View 3 RepliesFirst, details about my truck. 2007 F150 SuperCrew, 2wd, 5.4, 203,xxx miles on it, leveled with Hell Bent Steel 2.5" kit last year, has been aligned professionally since then, tires are good and balanced.
The issue I have is a vibration, kind of the same feeling when driving on a road surface that has had the top level of asphalt removed before it's resurfaced. It's mostly noticable at highway speeds. Its not a violent type vibration, but you can feel it. There is also a sound, similar to tires with a deep off road type tread.
The sound and vibration more noticeable when making lane changes or when wheel turned towards left, at highway speeds, not as much to the right. I've checked front wheel bearings, they are good, zero play, no loose suspension parts, u-joints are good, no leaks anywhere.
Since it makes the noise and vibration a bit more when moving wheel, could it be a power steering pump? The pump is the original.
I just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
View 5 Replies5.4L... My truck has a momentary moan / growl / bog down issue. It happens at town and highway speeds and usually when I have cruise on OR when I lightly apply the gas peddle. It moans for a few seconds and seems to bog down then comes out of it and carry's on its way. You can hear it plainly while driving even with radio on. I have a regular muffler on the truck but when this happens, it makes it sound like I have a catback on it.
Things i have done...
- New air filter
- New oil/filter
- New fuel filter
- Ran techron injector cleaner through tank of gas
2006' screw, 5.4L, 116K miles ... The truck looses power at highway speeds to the point that I need to pull off of the road. When this happens the check engine light is on and the truck is still running but will not accelerate, is it possible the computer is going into limp mode and if so what would cause this?
View 1 RepliesI recently switched from stock rotors to a pair of SP slotted rotors. The pads are stock. I thoroughly followed the bedding process and had no problems until now. For the past 2 weeks I noticed brake shudder when stopping from highway speeds. My first reaction was that it was a warped rotor. Since it was a fairly new pair.
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