I recently switched from stock rotors to a pair of SP slotted rotors. The pads are stock. I thoroughly followed the bedding process and had no problems until now. For the past 2 weeks I noticed brake shudder when stopping from highway speeds. My first reaction was that it was a warped rotor. Since it was a fairly new pair.
View 4 RepliesWhen stopping my 2004 VW GTI 1.8T at a low speed the brakes (sounds like from the front) make a strange noise from the front. The best way to describe the noise would like when you would put cardboard or the like in your bicycle tires as a child and make that whirring noise. I have checked the brake pads, rotors and the like and cannot find any evidence of grinding or anything of the sort. It only happens at low stopping speeds and not at harsher stops. There seems to be no evidence of problems stopping or anything like that, just an aggravating noise that will not go away! What it could be because I am completely lost on this topic and have checked all the basics (pads, calipers and rotors) for wear/tear and just did my brakes about 5 months ago with no noted issues at that point with everything broken down.
View 3 RepliesMy '04 Santa Fe (135K miles) has been doing this for a little while.
Between 65 - 75 MPH on the highway, under acceleration, I experience what I can only describe as a "shudder".
I don't believe it's a wheel balance issue, because if I'm coasting or maintaining that speed everything is stable.
I just picked up my new GTI and drove it 300 miles home. I did notice one potential issue that will need service attention. There is a mild but very noticeable shudder when slowing to a stop (gently slowing to less than 5mph). It is also mildly noticeable when taking off slowly but much less so.
The best description I can come up with is : Shudder that occurs when you slow to a near stop in a manual transmission car without pressing in the clutch? That little shudder that reminds you to put the clutch in before you stall. That is what this feels like. It doesn't shake the whole car but it is very noticeable.
I have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 Replies92 Celica at speeds of 35 or less brakes feel fine. At higher speeds the pedal sorta chatters with light pressure. If I press harder the pedal is smooth. Is this warped rotors or possibly something loose in the assembly? The car does not pull to either side the brake pedal just vibrates under light pressure at higher stopping speeds.
If it is a warped rotor will I be able to check for it with a mic or caliper? I do not have a dial indicator to check run in or run out. I do use a good machine shop with an machinist that I trust, but I would rather not pull rotors unless I have to.
Now I know this is not just tired mechanic syndrome and is a real problem with the car.
Well for a couple of months now I've had a really erratic shudder that occurred at different speeds and at different RPMs... I checked motor mounts, wheel balance, CV Joints, flywheel, etc. and when I took it to my mechanic, he discovered a sliced exhaust hanger in the middle of the exhaust system and nothing else.
Well after replacing this rubber hanger this vibration miraculously stopped occurring. I realized now that the movement of the exhaust which was created over certain roads with undulation caused it to flex harmonically and interrupt the workings of my Koni FSDs.
I really began to think the struts were the culprit but in the end realized the frequency from the loose exhaust was too much for the Frequency Sensing Dampers to counteract as the movements and inertia were opposite the motion of the car itself. She's now smooth as silk at highway speeds once again and only a slight vibration from the race strut bushings which were recently upgraded from stock can be felt through the steering wheel.
So i was observing my battery charge indicator, it was 50% charged, and i was going 70 mph and begin to slow down to 20 mph to exit ramp, and at my best of my ability (dont have scan gauge to see if brakes are activating) I tried to use only brake regeneration (using < 1/4 way of the brake pedel) anyways when it was slowing down from 70 mph to 50 mph the battery didn't budge, but as soon as i when from 45 mph to 20 mph battery begin to charge and gained 2 battery bar, and its been consistent though out several tests i did. So my question is does the brake regeneration only works for speeds below 50 mph, and/or is the amount charged to a battery at 70 mph to 50 mph limited until speeds drops below 50 mph.
View 13 RepliesI go my R32 calipers powder coated, I rebuilt the err m and got 20th rears while I was at it.
I did make a noob mistake and pressed the brake pedal to try to manually bleed my rear brakes (used a vacuum pump prior) then I remembered my front calipers were off.I might have pressed it 3-4 times.I re-bled all 4 corners, once all 4 calipers were on, and did so until I was sure there was no air.I read in a few places that our rear calipers bleed because the bleeder screw isnt at the high point, which makes sense. So Im wondering if this is what I'm experiencing or is there something, via VAGCOM, I have over looked?
Have driven Hondas for 25+ years and used to their appliance like Smoothness and reliability. Yesterday bought my first VW ever, the last 2010 Passat ( a sedan) in my dealer's inventory.
I immediately noticed that while coming to a stop for the final few seconds there is a jerkiness and shudder that I feel. Feels like the way a manual transmission car feels when you forgot to depress the clutch and you're stopping. Once I come to a complete stop all is fine again.
Is it "normal" for the passat or vw in general?
2010 F150 5.4, 6 speed... I am fast approaching the end for the factory 60,000 mile drive line warranty. I have had the slow speed 0-2 miles per hour shudder since 3,000 miles. The shudder downshifting from 2nd to 1st when stopping. As well as the highway shudder when gradually accelerating above 55 mph (empty and loaded)
The dealer that I purchased the truck from has driven with me several times and experienced the problems. They reflashed the computer at 5,000 miles. it made the shudder frequency double. i.e., twice as rapid. Reflashed again with no change.
I finally called Ford Motor Company, and they were surprised that I had not filed a complaint earlier. They followed up with the dealer.....who's service dept opted not to work on the vehicle again. I am now working with another dealer, and will be starting from scratch.
Long story short. I see that some have replaced torque converters, transmissions, clutch plates, valve bodies, and on and on....
So my car started to make this noise, hear it more at highway speeds than anything else. It's like a high pitched whine or whistle. When I'm on the accelerator it goes away, soon as I take my foot off the gas it starts up. Just cruising and engage clutch goes away as well. Sounds like coming from rear but hard to tell, hear it at low speeds but not as loud.
View 5 RepliesDriving on the highway the other day and I was doing about 80 and I noticed that the front end started to vibrate pretty loud so I slowed down to around 70 and it stopped. I got home and called up the local tire shop had all my wheels re balanced as I heard that could be the cause they were near perfect. Tires have about 3,000 miles on them. so yesterday I took it out to see if it would do it again and I noticed when it starts to vibrate at about 80 and I push in the clutch it stops immediately. Could my clutch be going out? or possibly like the throw out bearing.
View 10 RepliesI notice whenever I'm on the highway traveling between 60-70mph and at part throttle, I hear a hum that I would best describe as a gear whine which sounds to be coming from the rear. I'm taking it to the dealer next week to be checked.
View 13 RepliesI have been feeling a vibration in my right rear at highway speeds (70+mph) At first i thought that maybe it was a wheel bearing but that would constantly be vibration and it wouldn't be off and on like it is. The car is on coils and a friend mentioned to check and make sure my right height is the same all around. I checked just by comparing the fender well gaps and it does seem as if the right rear is a bit lower. If this is the case, can ur car being a little lower on one side cause this vibration? if so, how?
View 2 RepliesI just bought my first truck and it is a 1999 (Made in late 1998) F250 7.3 Super Duty it is 2WD with rear ABS and has 290k miles on it.
It has what seems to be the common brake shudder while stopping. I know the only solution is to replace the rotors and I have been looking all over the forums and internet and just don't know what to go with.
I'll be using the truck to do light farm work, pickup lumber, get a bed load of dirt and maybe pull a normal car trailer every now and then.
I'm wanting to get something that will prove to be trouble free long term and be good enough for what I need with out over paying for something that I will never fully utilize. I have looked at
R1 Concepts
Frozen Rotor
EBC - which doesn't have 2wd front rotors
The last couple of days I've noticed a strange sound that come on under boost accelerating at highway speeds. It's a harsh ssshhhh sound that rises in frequency with engine RPM, sort of between a wood lathe and a bench grinder. happens under mid to WOT. It almost seems like I am loosing a little HP as well but I can't confirm that. It's loud enough to hear it in the cabin and with the windows down I can definitely hear it. It's not really fluttering, that I'm used to being on my 3rd tuned 2.0T
View 6 RepliesI'm driving my wife's 2002 VW Golf on the highway to build miles (it's at 84k). It's a manual with gearing that's at 3500 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear, which seems pretty high. It had been doing fine on the highway, even though the RPM seems a bit high due to gearing, but it keeps me under 80 mph (highway is largely 70 mph). It burns oil, but not too bad, like a quart every 500 miles or so.
Recently, when driving at "high" speed (slightly over or near 70 mph), I get a plume of intense white smoke. After slowing down, the plume goes away, and I can continue near 65 mph.
After this happened today, I put on a code reader, and saw of P0159, air fuel ratio oxygen sensor issue. What causes the white plume of smoke, and what to do about it? Seems like the car should have more miles on it.
My '11 F250 stock w/airbags has a mild shudder when I let off the gas approaching a stop light. If I air the bags up to about 20 lbs it appears to go away, or at least is undetectable. I don't notice this if travelling at a higher rate of speed on a highway but only when slowing down from a lower speed (<40 mph). What this could be?
View 3 RepliesI just recently purchased an 05 Touareg V6 and I am a little concerned regarding the acceleration I am getting like after stopping at a light or trying to get on the highway. It seems that it takes this vehicle about 5-10 seconds to realize that it needs to get moving. However, after it does realize what it needs to do, the acceleration is fine. I was told different things such as it could be the turbo system and one thing I find very hard to believe that this is a characteristic of all VW's. I like my VW and don't want to get rid of it but would prefer better acceleration
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