I have already changed the pads, rotors, and calipers on both front brakes. Now it was sticking so bad the other day it was smoking from being so hot. Its not making me come to a full stop but the pads are sitting on the rotor even when I took the tire off. Could it be something simple? Or is the last thing to change the master cylinder?
View 6 RepliesTook the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
View 14 RepliesOne of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
View 15 Replies2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
I have a '99 E350 passenger van I have been trying to figure out a vibration problem. All the way up to 67 mph it is as smooth as a Lincoln, but from there up a vibration emerges from where I think is the front driver side area. I have done new rotors/calipers, because it needed them, balanced tires numerous times, have put the fronts in the rear and those have not fixed the vibration. The van has 100k on it and I love owning it especially with the big V10. The vibration is just enough to be annoying and when driving it is almost like it cycles for 4 seconds for the vibration then smooth for 6 seconds.
View 3 RepliesTruck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
02 Civic, 1.7L, 114K Found the front brakes sticking. I popped the bleeder open and got a little squirt out of the left side and a less of a squirt out of the right. I'm in the process of changing the pads which are on order from Rockauto. I took the existing pads off and lubed the pad guides/holding slots but I felt them starting to drag again after a short test drive. Also they did not seem to respond properly with normal braking. How would I test the caliper(s)? It's got to be a bad caliper or master cylinder causing this and I just don't want to throw parts at it.
View 19 RepliesFront driver side brake squeals on a stop and release. This is the only side that produces this noise. Brake clearance is still very good and this noise has been off and on since i bought the car in December. Car has about 25k miles on it and will be replacing brakes at 30k.
Brake issue - YouTube .....
1998 FORD E350 CLUB WAGON 15 PASSENGER VAN. Front brakes are sticking bad. Stop at intersection with snow or slick condition and you can barely get the van to start moving. After you do you can fell the drag and the vehicle working hard to keep moving. Take tires off front, can not see anything obvious that is wrong. Can see where the bake pads are leave makes on the rotor.
View 4 RepliesIt's time to replace the struts at 205,000 miles. Driver front is sticking and creaking. The dust boot was all ripped up. Either way the car is pretty boaty but I've never had a fresh Prius to compare it too. I got my car with 186K. I'd love to firm up the ride a bit but do see too many options. I see KYB GR2's, Monroe and Gabriel struts available. The car could use about 20% stiffer springs and some bigger sway bars. Any interchangeablilty with Corollas? They should have made a Prius S from the factory.
View 4 RepliesI just picked up an R32 a couple weeks ago, and I've noticed that occasionally when using the remote door locks that the driver's door refuses to lock/unlock. When locking, the alarm doesn't arm as I assume the car doesn't think the door is closed. When unlocking, well, it just doesn't unlock. In both cases if I use the key in the door, everything works nicely.
View 10 RepliesI have had my car sitting for about 2 weeks and I had ah problem with my car were my nuts came off while I was driving some how when I pulled over the car was wobbling I had 2 bolts left holding the tire on. I had gotten my car towed to my house and had new prongs and bolts put on my car since then but now when I try to drive or move the car it only moves maybe 1 foot forward and maybe the same amount of feet backwards... What this problem may be I tired to turning the steering wheel while pushing it backwards but nothing works... It's like when I'm trying to move it I'm bumpin into something or I have ah block behind the tire that's keeping it from moving.
View 16 RepliesI have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
View 3 RepliesRead alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
View 14 RepliesOn my 02 Superduty 4x4 7.3, I just replaced all the rotors,calipers,& pads because two were seizing up, so I decided to do all 4. It's still happening?! What could be causing this? They were all bled of the air & flushed with new fluid. I spent a lot of money here so I don't want to wreck any new parts, so it is parked now until I can get it fixed.
As I was coming home yesterday, as it was shifting up thru the gears it was dragging & held up on 2nd before it went into high & was hard keep moving & the RPM's were higher than normal, then all of a sudden pop and everything let go,it quit dragging, shifted into OD. Before this point I noticed the brake pedal seemed to be higher and hard?
2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
View 2 RepliesTruck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either.
View 8 RepliesThe issue is with my 1999 Audi A6 Quattro, I have driven 205,000 miles on the car and after 100K I started doing the maintenance. There is a sound coming from the front driver side, when you drive the car through a bumpy or gravel road, which sounds like “click, clank, click, clank”, to me its origin is from the suspension or the shock absorber. Both control arms were replaced due to misdiagnosis. Even the local maintenance shop can’t identify the issue, even after doing an alignment and inspection. I am not seeing any uneven ware out on the front tire.
View 10 RepliesMy 1999 Honda Civic has a leak where the plastic meets the rug by the drivers side floor. It is a about 7-9" from where the driver door opens. It only happens when it rains. I tested the moon roof drain hoses. They work fine. What is causing this?
View 3 RepliesI have a '99 Volvo XC V70 with turbo. The right rear and right front calipers are sticking.
View 6 RepliesWe have a 1999 Passat GLX 2.8 auto. I recently put on a new inner and outer tie rod as well as a lower forward control arm. The issue that we are experiencing is that when accelerating or braking hard there is a popping/clunking noise coming from the driver front area. When accelerating or braking normally/ smoothly it is fine. But, as I said accelerate or brake hard it will make a single pop or clunk and that is it, just once when braking hard or accelerating quickly.
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