Took the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
View 14 Replies2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
View 2 RepliesTruck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
Here's my problem while replacing brake pads i found that my axle has leaked fluid on the pss,side rear rotor and all over .. I been looking for any info on repairing it myself . I found Everything for every other truck just not for this truck.
It's 2003 F-250 w/5.4L all Stock rear axle has 12 bolts and gears are 7.73 ... I believe its a Dana 60. No tags or markings on the Axle to go by..
I live in the Freak-en woods here so i like to order all the right parts once and do over the weekend .. its my only ride so once apart im stuck here.... I did check the Vent Tube its fine..
Ok so I think I have sticking calipers on the rear passenger side of my truck, not 100% sure but ill be getting under the truck tomorrow to check. My question is how hard is it to fix this and how long do you think it will take? I have all the right stuff to get the truck jacked up and I have enough money to do this, time is just the issue. It gets dark around 4:30-5:00pm here and I get home from school at 3pm, and have work also but not until saturday this week.
I'd prefer to do this after school if possible because I've stopped driving it so that way I don't wear down my brake rotors and pads for no good reason. I have to drive the work truck that has many of its own issues but its driveable, headlights are very dim due to oxidization and is dangerous to drive in the snow due to the tires (no money to replace right now). How hard and how long this would be? What else it could be shoot! The problem is, it slows down if i let off the gas as if i was breaking, high heat from rear passenger side brakes/burning rubber smell.
Read alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
View 14 RepliesOn my 02 Superduty 4x4 7.3, I just replaced all the rotors,calipers,& pads because two were seizing up, so I decided to do all 4. It's still happening?! What could be causing this? They were all bled of the air & flushed with new fluid. I spent a lot of money here so I don't want to wreck any new parts, so it is parked now until I can get it fixed.
As I was coming home yesterday, as it was shifting up thru the gears it was dragging & held up on 2nd before it went into high & was hard keep moving & the RPM's were higher than normal, then all of a sudden pop and everything let go,it quit dragging, shifted into OD. Before this point I noticed the brake pedal seemed to be higher and hard?
Went and got new tires on the supercrew. Went going through parking lots or simply driving i hear a loud squeal like brake pad squeal. I put brand new wagner ceramics on the truck. Also if i turn to the left the driver side rear sounds like brakes are dragging against the rotor. Whats goin on with this. The squeal will happen between 10 mph to 20 mph and the grinding noise will happen if I am cruising or turning to the left. It goes away when i apply the brakes.
View 1 RepliesI've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
View 2 RepliesThe pads were replaced 5000 miles ago. Today the truck is acting hard to go, brakes are squealing, and I noticed a hot brake smell. I got home, grabbed a remote thermometer gun and the front rotors are 130 degrees, the back ones are 650 and 700 degrees! Super hot. I'm going to NAPA for new calipers and pads. I hope that fixes it.
View 3 RepliesOk I reinstalled the new rotors and pads clips and warning tabs. The rotors match the old rotors size , thickness and hub clearance. 2 questions
Vehicle still on stands ....
After tightening everything up on the passenger wheel and the rotor seem to have a lot of play or movement... Normal or not ??
Now drivers side hub and lug nut spindle is not moving , possible another issue ....
Passenger side spins freely ....
if I did not have bad luck I would have no luck at all with this truck
99 F250 Lariat SC 5.4 with 98,980 miles. As the title says, I cannot open the rear drivers door. It seems that the cable has broken.
View 2 RepliesBig trail of clear liquid on garage floor this morning. Truck is dripping on drivers side to rear of drivers side wheel well. Not brake fluid. Trans or antifreeze would have a color to it and a smell. None of that. Was quite humid last night and I did have truck out for about an hour run time. Trying to figure what the heck this is. Don't want to waste my or dealer service time if it's just AC moisture.
2016 f350 crew cab miles under 8k
Where the ac condensate drain is passenger or drivers side?
Yesterday evening my wife was following me down the road for a few hours, we are moving some stuff between houses. After 20 minutes she called me and said she could see occasional sparks under the truck,
Sparks?
A side of the road discussion determined she was seeing sparks near the drivers side rear shock absorber. I looked closely at that area and could not see anything that looked burnt. I felt the shock, axle tube, brake, brake line and E brake cable, but nothing was hot.
Driver's side rear door quit working today - opens about an inch or so. What is the remedy?
View 7 RepliesTwo weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
The doors on my 2005 crew cab are leaking water. Its happened once before, I fixed it by resetting the main seal around the doors. Now this tropical storm had them leaking again. The rear doors are leaking from the top and getting the head liner wet, and the front left door is leaking a little bit onto the middle pillar Guage and down onto my leg.
Is it time for new door seals? My 01 has never had this problem so im not entirely sure what to do.
Got off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
View 9 RepliesI've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
View 2 RepliesI noticed my rear brake smoking on the truck really just the rear driver side. I had replaced the pads and caliper and rotor a very long time ago. What I think happened is the parking brake got hung up somehow. The wheel was extremely warm and the reason I noticed it was not only the smoke but I felt some sort of wobble or almost out of alignment issue.
When I got home I noticed the smoke and extreme heat. I removed the caliper and the pads look still "new" and evenly worn. I did bleed the caliper just to make sure no air, I even put a spacer in the caliper and my wife applied the brake and they closed appropriately. Then I was trying to get the rotor off and no success. I did adjust the parking brake but I am not sure if you move it up or down to loosen it up?
I have used PB Blaster to try and loosen it up, rubber mallet while I turn it (although it does not turn easily at all), I sprayed it inside where the adjuster is hoping it would seep down between the shoes and the hub. I heated the hub up with a little torch - no success. I was thinking of using a wood piece as a butter and hammer from the inside out on the rotor but fear that will warm the rotor itself.