Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Dripping On Driver Side To Rear Wheel Well
May 2, 2017
Big trail of clear liquid on garage floor this morning. Truck is dripping on drivers side to rear of drivers side wheel well. Not brake fluid. Trans or antifreeze would have a color to it and a smell. None of that. Was quite humid last night and I did have truck out for about an hour run time. Trying to figure what the heck this is. Don't want to waste my or dealer service time if it's just AC moisture.
2016 f350 crew cab miles under 8k
Where the ac condensate drain is passenger or drivers side?
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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Got off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
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99 F250 Lariat SC 5.4 with 98,980 miles. As the title says, I cannot open the rear drivers door. It seems that the cable has broken.
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So I had a strange vibration coming from the drivers side wheel intermittently. Only when the hubs were in Auto , by locking them it would not happen. With hubs in Auto when it occurs switching into 4H made it stop immediately.
It would occur after small bumps and sound like driving over a rumble strip. I figured it sounds like a needle bearing in the hub going wonky and just replaced the entire sealed unit. So that should be it right? Nope.....
The vibration has changed tone and sound but still occurred after a slight bump to the right Driver Side tower. It now is a much deeper tone then before.
I made sure everything was reassembled correctly and tight. I notice however that if I remove the ESOF lockouts to rule them out it still occurs (no lockout in at all ) .
I can move the outer DS stub shaft quite a bit with one finger when the lockouts are not installed. Which would explain that why when the lockouts are installed and I lock the hubs it doesn't occur as the end of the stub shaft rides in the lockout.
I haven't changed the outer axle seals , but they really didn't look shot. It appears as if the play in the axle is coming from the pumpkin.
Side note: I took apart everything and cleaned it , there was mud, crud, dirt and water throughout the hum to and into the lockouts. see pix below for the mess and carnage. I cleaned and lubed everything up.
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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Had the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
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I have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
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Yesterday evening my wife was following me down the road for a few hours, we are moving some stuff between houses. After 20 minutes she called me and said she could see occasional sparks under the truck,
Sparks?
A side of the road discussion determined she was seeing sparks near the drivers side rear shock absorber. I looked closely at that area and could not see anything that looked burnt. I felt the shock, axle tube, brake, brake line and E brake cable, but nothing was hot.
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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My front driver side wheel is making a clunk noise when I hit a bump. I replaced the wheel bearing hub assembly and discovered both axle seals were bad.
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Took the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
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Driver's side rear door quit working today - opens about an inch or so. What is the remedy?
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The doors on my 2005 crew cab are leaking water. Its happened once before, I fixed it by resetting the main seal around the doors. Now this tropical storm had them leaking again. The rear doors are leaking from the top and getting the head liner wet, and the front left door is leaking a little bit onto the middle pillar Guage and down onto my leg.
Is it time for new door seals? My 01 has never had this problem so im not entirely sure what to do.
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I have read a few threads about wet floors but I still don't know the answer.
I can see the water dripping down the passenger side floor, from the area of the firewall. It is filling the channel in the floor, under the door sill.
The truck sits in my driveway, with the nose downhill. May be windshield, or AC/Heater drain tube could be plugged. Does the '99 F250 have a drain tube from the AC?
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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I just put new rims on my truck which are 18x9 with a -24 offset. I swapped my 35s over from my stock wheels (which they didn't rub at all). When I put my new wheels on, the drivers side rubs really bad but the passenger side doesn't rub at all! I'm extremely confused why this happens. I know negative offset will make the wheel rub weird. But why is it only happening on one side and not the other?
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The used 2004 F-350 I bought has developed a driver's side front end howl between 45 and 60 mph over the last 1000 miles. I tried all the standard stuff, rebalanced tires, rotated tires, put on a set of tires from a friend's F-350, replaced wheel bearings, replaced ball joints and nothing has worked.
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