1999 Sonoma / 4.3L V6 - No Power When Accelerating
Sep 5, 2011
1999 Sonoma, 4.3L V6, 2 wheel drive, X engine code, about 92,000 miles.
It doesn't accelerate smoothly. It starts, runs, idles fine. Drives fine at constant speed. The problem comes when during moderate acceleration, either from a stop or when speeding up from a constant speed, i.e.: passing another car or getting on the freeway.
If I go real easy on the throttle, it runs fine and accelerates ok. But if I give it too much gas, it sputters out, misses, chokes, total loss of power. This happens under normal driving conditions. The 'check engine' light hasn't come on.
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I have a 1999 GMC Sonoma with 76,000 miles. The heater started blowing cold air so I took it to my local GMC dealer and they did a chemical flush of the heater core. The heater now blows luke warm air but it is not nearly as warm as it used to be. My local dealer repair shop is now telling me that I need to replace the heater core itself to the tune of about $1,000. Do I have any other options?
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I've got a '99 GMC Sonoma that I purchased last summer. Great little rig, runs well and the previous owner took care of it. In the last couple of days the headlights and dashboard display have been flickering at all RPMs. I am guessing a bad battery or alternator, but previous related posts indicate it could be all sorts of stuff electrical.
From what I can tell from previous posts, the easier tests are
1) Voltage across the battery poles with engine off to test for a bad cell,
2) AC voltage at battery with engine running to test for alternator diode problems (should be no AC voltage, correct?), or
3) Something called the A.I.R. pump, which I've never heard of and wouldn't know how to test.
The last time I had this happen was on a 2000 Caravan, and it was the battery.
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My issue can be while driving with cruise on, or accelerating, the truck just losses power, then recovers. At idle, the rpm can, but not always, fluctuate.
There is no "misfire" when it happens, but it just falls on its face. I have NO diagnostic tools, and my injectors are not stock, so I am unable to unplug my DP.
My thoughts are to unplug the ICP and give that a shot? Meanwhile, I will put in a order for a elm327
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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1999 saab 9 3 loss of power going up hill and when accelerating, have had the catalytic converter replaced, the turbo thingy checked and blown out, the muffler checked and found no problem, It has been put on the machine at 2 different dealers and no problem found...
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When I'm driving at highway speed and press the accelerator after coasting a bit, the engine stumbles then picks up and accelerates. The fuel bowl assembly is brand new as of 5 months ago, and I drained of any water last month when I changed oil. Truck is stock with 350k miles.
Apart from this issue, it runs well and idles smoothly. Injectors are healthy per a buzz test a powerstroke mechanic performed last year. What could cause the stumble off idle?
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I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
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I just wrapped up a full day's worth of tear down/reassembly chasing an oil leak at the turbo pedestal. while I had the turbo out I replaced the pedestal with a non-ebpv pedestal and replaced the outlet with a high flow outlet. I also removed the stock exhaust and replaced it with a 4" Turbo Back from MRPB. Once I got everything put back together I hit the highway to check out the new exhaust.
To my horror I started to hear a high pitched airhorn-like sound while accelerating. It sounds a lot like an old police siren... I'm wondering if this sounds like a turbo or simply a boost leak. I obviously had everything taken apart so a boost leak seems likely (still original boots with 191,000 miles). I've ordered new boots from RiffRaff but wanted to make sure it didn't sound like an exploding turbo and that I could safely drive it until I can fix the old boots.
Take a look (listen) at the video : [URL] ....
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Background: '01 Excursion 7.3 4WD, 264,xxx miles, batteries less than three years old, new alternator [URL] .... , using an Edge Insight for digital readings.
Problem: I replaced the alternator about three weeks ago, first week all normal. Second week alt/battery idiot light comes on, then to add more frustration it is consistently inconsistent in its reading.
The volts (upon starting) jump around 11.6 - 12.1 when first starting. The light comes on while accelerating and goes off during no throttle while cold.
After warm-up the light will come on intermittently even though the reading is 13.0>, but never during off throttle.
It seems to do this more when cold but it does not completely stop when it's warm. Yes, I don't think that should be a factor but it is a reality .
I'm thinking it's a bad voltage regulator.
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I got a p0284 code and have some symptoms such as shaking while accelerating between 45 and 60 mph and a rough idle.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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when i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
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1995 GMC Sonoma, 4.3L TBI 2-wheel drive Automatic. Will not go more than 20 MPH, will stall out and die if you try pushing on the accelerator. Had a code of 32 saying the EGR Valve. I bought and put on a new EGR Valve. Still does the same thing--no power and only 20 MPH. I'm wondering if it could be that the catalytic converter is plugged or maybe a bad fuel pump.
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1996 GMC sonoma, 150k, automatic. Parked it today and it wouldn't go into park. First thought was that the cable had stretched but notice that the shift lever wasn't going all the way to the park position. Feels like something is blocking it. Tried it running as well as not running. Of course I can't get my keys out or turn the ignition all the way off so I had to unhook my battery.
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I'm trying to figure out what the problem with my truck is. Starting sometimes takes a few tries. It will start then stall immediately or run rough for a bit and stall or run normal. At first I thought it was electrical since I used a jump start off a battery charger and it started right up. The battery was 5 yrs old so I got a new one and it's starting better but still not all the time. I replaced the fuel filter and it didn't seem to make any difference. I tested the fuel pressure and it's at 52 PSI before and after starting. Seems to start better when warm. Runs perfectly fine after starting, no other issues.
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Just had a quick question in regards to my Sonoma. My 97 Sonoma 2.2l transmission died on me a few weeks back and i happen to have a working 4.3L transmission from an old 2000 Sonoma i once had. My question is will it work? Am I able to bolt the 4.3L tranny to my 2.2L engine? and if they would is there anything else I would require to make it work?
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I recently bought a 2000 Gmc Sonoma SLS and it's been a headache ever since. Ever since I got it, it's made this rattling sound that only occurs when I'm both idling and when the AC compressor is on. The sound is intermittent and sounds like something rattling against a large metal pan. Whenever I turn the AC off or pick up the RPMs, it stops like it was never there.My first thought was: belt tensioner. So I popped the hood and watched the tensioner at idle and it seems to be moving back & forth a lot more than I think it should, however, there's not much give at all when I push on the belt itself.
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I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:
1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?
2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?
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I have a 2001 GMC Sonoma Highrider Edition it has the 4.3 Vortex and its 4x4 my transmission has been whining slightly it has 169,000 miles on it runs and shifts great it when's when ever its in park and whens threw 1st gear from what I can tell but it doesn't whine in Reverse from what I can tell. This is my first truck and I love it so far and Id hate for the transmission.
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The brake lights on my truck are not working all the fuses are good, the bulbs are good, I have changed the brake switch. They still do not work, altho all the other lights at the rear work even tail lights.
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