2001 Blazer Crank But Not Start On The First Turn Of Key


May 3, 2012

For about two weeks, my Blazer would crank but not start on the first turn of the key. After a couple of tries it would start and as long as the engine was not off for more than a few hours, it would start again with no problem. While driving however, the engine would periodically "hitch" like it was missing a spark, or not getting any gas. As of last weekend, the engine will not catch at all, and a light on the dash shows "low fuel" even though the tank is almost full.

Spoke to a mechanic who (without looking at it) diagnosed a fuel pump problem at a cost of around $1,000. Is there any other problem which may cause this issue? I have very limited mechanical ability, and cannot pull the spark plugs to test them, as they seem to be buried in the lower half of the engine block.

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S-10 :: 2002 Blazer Has Power But Won't Crank / Start

Went to start the truck, turned the key - dash lit up, fuel pump primed, turned the key all the way and nothing. Truck did not even try to turn over, headlights did not dim, no starter, no crank.

I checked/tested the following:

-Battery and terminal connections - good fully charged 12.3v
-Ran battery charger on slow charge 10-15 min (quick) to full 13v
-Wiring to starter - good
-Relay box under hood - has power
-Starter relay - has wiring diagram on it - tested good.
-Every ignition related fuse in the relay box - all good
-Every ignition fuse in the driver's side dash fuse box - good
-I wiggled the ignition switch while turning every possible way - no crank
-I ran the gearshift lever through all the gears, tried to start it in neutral - no crank
-Rolled the truck a little, put in park - no crank

For some reason I decided to double check the # 24 RDO IGN fuse - it was fine. With the fuse still out I tried to start the truck and it STARTED!

I turned the truck off, replaced the fuse and the truck started again and, so far, ever since. I do not think the # 24 fuse had anything to do with it; I just got lucky.

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S-10 :: 1997 Blazer Leading Up To Crank But No Start Condition

Wants to crank. I notice when I turn the key switch on (not start) the gas gauge pegs out as if a super full tank and no fuel pump noise. At times, leading up to the crank but no start condition, I would turn the key on, hear the fuel pump and the gas gauge would indicate proper fuel level. When this happened, the vehicle ALWAYS started.

Here what I know now;

1. Fuel pump works. As indicated by the red auxellery jumper lead inside the engine well.
2. Good fuel pressure.
3. Starter checks good.
4. Battery hot and leads are cleaned.
5. Grounds in engine compartment and at fuel tank are cleaned.
6. Vehicle does have gas.
7. Air bag light stays on, even after pulling battery leads, letting set, and reinstalling.

This ABS light would come on and go off independently before the "crank but no start condition". So I'm assuming that the ABS might be its own problem; but not contributing to the crank but no start condition? There were problems leading up to the no start condition. Vehicle began to become hard to start (but would start). After starting (at idle) if the gas pedal was pressed aggressively, the "service engine" light would flash on and off rapidly and the "ABS" light would come on. At this point the vehicle wanted to die. No apparent codes were given.

Now the "crank but no start condition". Before this problem, the vehicle was sending the code for 3 o2 sensors. But a new fuel filter corrected this problem completely with no further apparent problems. Then (about 4 weeks later) the "crank but no start". I do not think the fuel filter and the "crank but no start" problems are related.? No other maintenance has been done to this vehicle that might cause this problem. At this point the manual I am using is useless...

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2001 Ranger 3L v6 auto, 186k miles. Never had a problem. One day last month I park it at home. 10 minutes later I need to make a quick trip . Get in, turn key, absolutely nothing happens. Replaced the battery, starter/solenoid, and ignition switch (not the key cylinder lock, but the white box inside the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel...has lots of wires going into and out of it,...turning the key slides a little metal pin inside it up and down). All fuses and relays are good, neutral safety switch is good. Key lock cylinder is mechanically working properly. Engine is not headlights, interior lights, wipers, radio, etc all work fine. Theft light is not blinking rapidly. Headlights do not dim when ignition key is turned. Where do I go from here?

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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.

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It's a 01 Ranger 3.0 V6 5 spd 2wd. He drove home from work then the next morning wouldn't crank over. Turn the key and it doesn't even attempt to crank. All dash lights, headlights, etc come on. Battery is good. Took starter out and tested at parts store. Tested good. Clutch switch was good. Replaced ignition switch with no change. If I jump the solenoid on the starter it will turn the engine over. When turning the key I can hear the starter relay in the fuse block under the hood clicking. All fuses were good. I found the main engine ground wasn't hooked up to anything. I hooked it back up and still nothing. All battery connections were good but cleaned them anyway. Not really sure where to go from here.

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I have a 2000 Jimmy and it just won't start. All lights come on and horn works. No crank when I turn the key. I had this problem before and the problem was a bad starter relay. I replaced the relay. The vehicle started up fine and ran fine for a few days. I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't. Battery is good, changed the plugs, wires, starter, cap and rotor within the last 8 months. Someone made a reference to my security system. Are there known electrical problems/interference between security system and other systems?

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My son has a 2001 explorer sport that he keeps at college. The vehicle sits alot more than it runs these days. Recently it some times does not want to start, no click when you turn the key. He got it home today, and after I changed oil, it would not start. I have no ground to the starter relay in the power distribution box.

I have no electrical schematics, where the ground for the starter relay comes from ? If I remove the relay and run jumper wires from the box to the relay, i can make the vehicle crank when i apply another ground source to the relay....but it just cranks, will not start.

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About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.

So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.

2001 Escape 6 cyl...

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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?

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I drive a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, the Jeep had some trouble starting. It would crank and turn over and then sputter out. I tried it again and it did the same thing. After letting it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran fine. No warning lights or anything on the dashboard and nothing that seemed unusual. A couple days later, my wife noticed a small pool of pink fluid on the floor of the garage where my Jeep parks.

So I took the Jeep in to get it looked at. They said there was a leak in the coolant line as well as the pinion system, both of which they repaired. Since then, the Jeep has done this 3 more times, usually from a warm start. If it's been sitting for a few hours, it starts without a problem. But if I'm running errands, then the third time I try to start it, it will fail until I let it sit for a couple minutes. Then it will finally start up. What it could be before I take it back to the mechanic?

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- When I jump the car, the HV battery will crank the motor for about a second, the engine tries to start but stutters out.
- When I try to jump again after 10 seconds, the HV battery will crank the motor but now just a split second and the engine barely cranks and doesn't start.
- When I try to jump again after 10 more seconds, the HV battery will NOT crank the motor and nothing turns.

The car dash screen shows that the HV battery is at about 25%. There is no engine codes.

What I've done:

- Replaced the main 100A fuse by the 12V battery
- Disconnected and reconnected the main HV battery flip switch

I'm down to my last option as the Toyota dealership was useless and wanted to charge for a new 12V battery and diagnostics before looking at why the engine won't crank.

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My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player

I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?

I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.

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Car had been running fine and all the sudden turn the key and get nothing. Dash lights come on and there's a click in glove box but nothing from starter. I have 0V at ignition post on solenoid with key in start position. I can short the 12V post and ignition post with screwdriver on solenoid and starter and engine crank as normal but car won't start. Further checking I have 0V key off at ignition module, 12V with key on. A connector outside firewall between ignition switch and transmission neutral safety switch. I took this apart, it was a 7 pin with 2 of 7 blank. The red wire I had 0V key off, 12V key on.

Then I dug into the steering column area. 12" or so down from the key there is a connector with a rod coming from the key area down into it. I assume this to be the ignition switch. The rod is supposed to move and is attached to a plunger that pushes into the connector. I assume this rod is attached to the key. When I turn the key the rod never moves. So I thought ok clamp some pliers on the rod and push it into the connector manually, it should make connection and start the car. When this had no results I am now at a loss as to where to go next. Further thought, how did I get the 12V readings in several locations with key on if ignition switch appears to be faulty. I'm not sure if it's faulty or not, things don't add up. I didn't dig into the steering column where the key is yet because I will have to remove airbag and steering wheel to do so.

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