2002 Blazer - Low Pulsing Whirring Engine Noise At Start Up


Jun 8, 2012

I have an 02 Blazer w/ 110K miles. It's the 4.3L with 4WD. When I start it in the morning it usually has a low pulsing whirring sound for up to 30 seconds. It then goes away until the car is parked for a long time again, say overnight. It's a low volume sound, a lot like the sound of off road tires running down the highway. This has been going on for several months now.

All systems work fine. The alternator is new, the water pump has about 29K on it, and the top idler pulley has been replaced. Turning the A/C on or off makes no difference. The sound is loudest when you stand in front of the passenger side headlight which made me suspect and swap the alternator.

Could it be the belt? It was replaced with the WP and the ribs are not smooth inside. They are notched. I assume that's to improve the flexibility of the belt. If I take it to a shop they'll get 30 seconds each morning to diagnose it.

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S-10 :: 2002 Blazer Has Power But Won't Crank / Start

Went to start the truck, turned the key - dash lit up, fuel pump primed, turned the key all the way and nothing. Truck did not even try to turn over, headlights did not dim, no starter, no crank.

I checked/tested the following:

-Battery and terminal connections - good fully charged 12.3v
-Ran battery charger on slow charge 10-15 min (quick) to full 13v
-Wiring to starter - good
-Relay box under hood - has power
-Starter relay - has wiring diagram on it - tested good.
-Every ignition related fuse in the relay box - all good
-Every ignition fuse in the driver's side dash fuse box - good
-I wiggled the ignition switch while turning every possible way - no crank
-I ran the gearshift lever through all the gears, tried to start it in neutral - no crank
-Rolled the truck a little, put in park - no crank

For some reason I decided to double check the # 24 RDO IGN fuse - it was fine. With the fuse still out I tried to start the truck and it STARTED!

I turned the truck off, replaced the fuse and the truck started again and, so far, ever since. I do not think the # 24 fuse had anything to do with it; I just got lucky.

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S-10 :: 2003 Blazer Won't Start - Engine Is Turning

Her vehicle is a 2003 Chevrolet Blazer, 4 door. It has a brand new battery.

She drove it to the store and came back home and shut it off. Within 5 minutes she tried to start it back up to move it and it won't start. When she turns the key, all dashlights come on, all gauges work and the engine is turning but won't start.

When the key is turned, I do not hear the fuel pump. But I've been told that in some vehicles you don't.

We removed the cover under the hood and took out the "plug" that said fuel pump (it was grey and had 4 prongs on it that plugged in) and switched it with another "plug" with the same numbers and it still does the same thing.

Hubby took of the black cover (think it was the breather but not sure correct name) and sprayed a little starting fluid and the Blazer started for a few seconds and would continue this until it burnt up the fluid. He looked down in this when I was trying to start it and he said that he couldn't see any gas being shot in it.

Could it be anything else besides the fuel pump?? Where is the fuel pump relay switch located and how can we tell if it is bad? I have no problem buying a fuel pump for my mom but I would like to know that it is going to fix the problem.

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2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles

In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....

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Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..

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1992 S10 Blazer - Rough Idle At Start / Shuts Off In Gear And Engine Never Getting Higher Than 180

1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"

When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.

I've checked all the following with a shop manual:

Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR

I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.

I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?

I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.

Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.

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Seems to be coming from under the cover at the back. Area of interest circled in the 2nd & 3rd pics.

What is there, and if it might make a whirring noise. I am also getting a p0491 and 492 Secondary Air Injection Insufficient Flow, banks 1 & 2. Wondering if this could be the culprit for that as well.

Album -> [URL] .....

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At idle the whirring/whining noise can be heard whether the A/C is on or off. I have done some research and some causes for a noise like that have been a bad power steering pump, alternator, or pulleys.

The Elantra has 106,300 miles and gives me 26 MPG. I love this car. It has been the most dependable car I have ever owned. I plan to maintain it and hopefully last me for another 100,000 miles.

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I just purchased a 2013 Ford Focus hatchback SE Monday night. Tuesday morning I came out of the house to get in my car, I unlocked the car, and opened the door. Before I even got into the car I heard a "scratch scratch scratch whirr whirr" coming from the engine. The dealer did not show me where the hood latch was so by the time I figured out how to open the hood the noise had stopped (within a minute of when it started.) Driving that day I did not notice any more noise, nor any issues with the engine.

Wednesday morning (today) I came out to get in my car, and when I opened the door I heard the same nose coming from under the hood. I got the hood open and looked in with a flashlight while the nose was still going. The noise was coming from the right hand side of the engine block, but I did not see anything actually moving to cause the scratching and whirring noise.

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