5 Series :: 1991 BMW 525i Electrical System Shut Down
Aug 19, 2008
Recently, the cars electrical system shut down. The central locking system, the windows, seat adjustments, interior lights and the radio quit operating. The A/C, outside mirrors, driving lights & ignition remained operative.
Removing the electrical modules in the engine compartment & re-seating them reset the system. Then the same issue recurred. Re-seating the modules did not resolve this the second time. Only when the modules under the rear seat were removed and re-installed did the systems start again. Which module is defective?
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We got the car a couple days ago. It was running fine then, although suspiciously the guy we bought it from had it running when we got there, leading me to believe he knew about the problem already and didn't want us to. The problem is that after my dad drove it to work yesterday, he tried to start it up at lunch and it wouldn't start. It didn't sound like the starter was trying at all, just a bunch of electronic clicks. However, the electronics all work, dash lights, headlights, locks, etc. It just doesn't seem to be able to start up.
When we took it to a shop for an unrelated issue, a mechanic said there were wires hanging down in the trunk for a sub, and we knew this but thought it was no big deal. He told us that if it was wired wrong, it could be draining the battery, even without being hooked up to a sub. I checked the battery, and there were a few extra wires hanging off the negative terminal. However, that doesn't make sense to me, how could a couple of wires attached to just the negative terminal do anything?
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my 91 525i wont engage 1st gear..fluids fine..nothing smoking...fluid levels great. color correct in fluid appearance..reverse works..no funny noises from rear end..car just will not shift above 1st. i have replaced transmission filter and fluid.
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98 Ford Escort (150k miles) died suddenly when I was going in reverse (parking) after a 100minute trip between 7 and 9 am. The entire electrical shut down after going about 30 ft in reverse.I checked all the fuses and they look OK. The alternator has about 2 years on it. The battery is used up but still works in warm climates.
Now, when i turn the ignition, no diagnostic lights turn on inside. I can only get it to do a warning audio beep on the first section turn of the ignition (warning that door is open). Electrical door locking makes a trying sound but no action. The headlights turn on when i flash the high beams.
This is a very tough problem because it's electrical. This car has had no mechanical issues and I take care of it, even driving no more than 65mph and avoiding day driving (due to heat). What could it possibly be? I have never even imagined a problem like this.
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I have a 1995 BMW 525i and the fuse for the AC keeps blowing after a few minutes. It's #9 in the fuse box. Before the fuse blows the AC works fine. I can't find any visible problems. Is there a common problem that I can check?
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I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
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Have a 91 Honda Accord (automatic) with seems to be an electrical problem.After driving a while the Tac, Speedometer stop working and the radio cuts in and out. The car still runs, just a little rougher; when I turn it off it won't start, acts like the battery is dead. After it sits overnight it starts and then runs fine for a while or until it happens all over again.
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So have a 1991 Saab 900 about a 3 month's ago I bought it and each time I would fill up the tank the gas light would always be on well after awhile of driving it for about a month it broke down. I would just be driving and all of a sudden it would shut off, and won't start for a few hours and now it won't start at all just crank I've replaced the fuel pump and it's pumping though the line but I took the injectors out to see if it would spray when cranking and it's not.
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My car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
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I have a 1991 idi diesel f250. My dash lights have entirely gone out and i cannot seem to figure out why, i checked the fueses under the driver dash and under the hood for that matter and nothing is blown.
At the same time, the dome lights, door lights, cab lights, stereo, windows, ever the light in the ash trey etc, work perfectly fine. Could a wire have come loose behind the dash cluster and shorted out everything in the driver area?
I still get the high beam signal, check engine, engine, wait to start, and water in fuel light in the cluster. but no back lighting (when turning the key to the on position)...
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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The problem I'm having is it starts fine in the morning but when I shut it off it it takes about an hour to start back up ..
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The radio in my 1991 Honda Civic has been dying a slow death over the past year. First it would stop working if the weather was too hot. Then it would only work sporadically, finally it almost never worked. Whenever the radio stopped working, there would be a loud electrical "pop" sound, so I thought it might have a short. Yesterday my husband fixed the upper rear brake light (cleaned contacts) so it would pass inspection. Now the radio works perfectly! Are the brake lights and radio on the same circuit?
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1991 F150XLT, 5.0, E4OD....Should the EFI system bump up the idle speed when the AC system is operating to compensate for the compressor load? Obviously I'm asking because mine sure doesn't. With AC on, the idle speed will drop to around 300rpm in Drive, like when sitting at a red light for example. Surely this isn't normal operation...is it?
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As I was driving today, I flipped the fan on in my Saturn to clear the windshield. Shortly after I did that, my radio shut down, and wipers slowed down. Car still ran. After stopping for awhile, I began to head home, stopped at a red light, and all electrical shut down as soon as I turned on my turn signal. Wipers, lights, etc. Car still ran, so I went to the nearest parking lot. Engine started running rough when I opened the door, then it quit & would not re-start. We just replaced the battery (original) in December & I am thinking this might be the alternator? My car has never given me one bit of trouble (except for the dead battery) until now.
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What does this message mean? ELECTRICAL CONSUMERS ARE BEING SHUT DOWN....
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I currently have a 06 camry se v6 3.3 3mz-fe with an electrical issue. Here is the list of issues
1. whenever I draw power to do anything after the car is started some things restart it self or shut off then slowly come back on. For EX if I am driving and apply the brakes the radio shuts off and/or the gauges reset (like I am turning off the car and re inserting the key).
2. if I roll all the windows up at the same time same thing as above.
3. if the radio is too loud same thing
4. everything inside the vehicle is dimmer then before.
while this is happening the engine is still running and never shuts off only electrical stuff shuts on and off.
this is what is electrical aftermarket on the car that I have changed
pioneer AVH-4000
JL 150/4 500/1
JL componets front 6x9 rear vr 12"w6v2
LED mood lights interior at feet front and rear
HID's low and high
1.5 farad cap
optima red top with dual post (side mounts used for factory connections top for system 0ga connections)
I have also done the following
disconnected all of the above (so no lights, radio, interior lights)
replaced the alternator (twice, the first was a DOA from autozone and now I fear that the second one is going bad because its not charging @14.??v anymore im lucky if it charges at 13.6)
checked all my grounds under the hood and trunk
checked all fuses and relays that I can find
charged the battery even when it tested good but was low at 12.1v
checked all of the wire harnesses under the hood for shorts or exposed wires
I have done almost everything but strip the entire car down to shell and inspect the whole harness and behind the dash, which I don't have the time to do. I have been trying to solve this issue for a month now and its not getting better its getting worst so I make the last step and take it down to the dealer.
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I have a 91 park ave it wont start all the lights come on the dash . If I run jumper to starter it turns wont stay running unless I pour gas in line. appears to not be getting power to starter and fuel system. What controls both of these?
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My 1991 ranger with a 4.0 turns over but will not start. It acted like it ran out of gas put again seems to do ok then it did same thing it sat over night then would not start so I thought I would put some gas in the intake so it starts ran real rough but smoothed after a few minutes ran fine after that next morning same thing no start did same put gas in intake at first no start just turned over didn't even try let it sit for awhile then tried again it fires up ran rough but ran now I get nothing just turns over pulled codes 22and 122 replaced both had ignition mod checked its good new coil pack no change so at this point i hear fuel pump kick on fuel getting to fuel bar but seems a bit week on pressure going to get pressure gauge and see what it says but in the meantime I am loosing my mind...
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I recently bought a 91 Ranger 4wd for my son. The guy I bought it from put new manual lock outs on it. every time I take the tire off on either side the hub comes with it! Is there a clip or retainer missing? If so what and where can I get one?
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My dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
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