Saab - 900 :: 1991 - Shut Off All Of A Sudden When Driving Now Won't Start
Jun 6, 2016
So have a 1991 Saab 900 about a 3 month's ago I bought it and each time I would fill up the tank the gas light would always be on well after awhile of driving it for about a month it broke down. I would just be driving and all of a sudden it would shut off, and won't start for a few hours and now it won't start at all just crank I've replaced the fuel pump and it's pumping though the line but I took the injectors out to see if it would spray when cranking and it's not.
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A week ago, my wife and I were driving on the highway when suddenly our 2014 Santa Fe decided to shut off at 65 mph. When I say shut off, I mean EVERY SINGLE THING IN THE CAR DIED. All of the interior lights off, headlights off, instrument cluster, EVERYTHING. Being cool, calm, and collected, I immediately shifted into neutral, cranked, and all was back to normal. Not in the 2 years that we have owned this car has that EVER happened! I chalked it up to an inexplicable electrical anomaly.
Tonight, again, the same thing happened under different circumstances. This time, I was following her. She came to a stop at a red light, then once she lifted her foot off the brake, everything shut off. I instructed her to immediately put the car in neutral and try starting it. Like last time, it turned right back on. Apparently, there seemed to be an issue with the previous generation with the 2.4 motors.
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My car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
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I was going 65-70MPH on the highway and the engine suddenly shut down. I pulled over on the shoulder and tried to restart but the engine would start for a second then dies again. I tried several times but it would not start. Waited 10 min and tried again with no luck. I called a towing service and a friend to pick me up. The towing guy called me 40 min later and said the car starts fine. I have driven it for couple days since and tried to recreate the problem (warming the engine, accelerating hard to 5000 RPM, stop and go situation) but the car runs great. No problem whatsoever with power or jittering or unstable idle or starting the car.I talked to 2 mechanics and they both think it is the fuel pump failing. But I am not convinced since I could smell gasoline when I was trying to start it.I have no check engine light on and I checked for recorded codes with my BT OBDII tool – nothing.
Do you think it might be CPS? Wouldn’t I get check engine light on if it is CPS?
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Car is a 97 Pontiac Grand Prix. I was driving the other day and my car just shut off when turning a corner. I thought it might have been out of gas so I put gas in it and it started for a min but when I put it in drive it died and hasn't started again since. I took the alternator out and had it checked an it was good and the fuel pump still made a weeeen sound when turned over so I don't think neither off them are it. I think it could be the crank shaft thing but I don't know I'm not a mechanic or I wouldn't.
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I have a audi a4 1.8t engine code atw and for awhile i would have random no starts then about two weeks ago it shut off while i was driving home from school and hasn't started since. it turns over fine but i am getting no spark and im getting the error codes p1517, p1433, and p0321 so far i have changed the crank position sensor, the cam position sensor, and the ecm main power supply relay. Still I am getting no start i cant figure this out...
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So I was driving down the road today and my car just shut off. No turning back at all. It is still trying to start. Battery is fine, terminals are fine, it acts like it wants to start but won't start. It's been running fine for a long time now. I think it may be the fuel pump. I'm going to take the fuel line out when I get home and see if it's getting fuel.
Door doesn't make the buzzing sound when you open the door. The car is also on air ride...
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I was riding my 1985 Monte Carlo SS down I-20 and the engine abruptly shut-off. The radio and all of the lights were still operating. I pulled over to the service lane and waited an hour for a tow truck. While waiting, I was constantly checking to see if the car would start. After an hour, the car started again and I went on my way. I left the car parked for about 5 hours and when I went to start it, the car started right up. After making it about a mile down the road, the engine shut-off again in the turning lane of a busy intersection. I wouldn't start again after that.
I had the car towed 30 miles to my home and left it sitting. I just changed the alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires and battery, the car still won't start. I used all high-end parts, no cheap stuff. The battery meter is reading low, even with the new battery.
The has an aftermarket UNGO alarm system in it, which is "spidered" into the ignition system. This prohibits power to everything except the lights if the key isn't in the ignition.
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So a friends 09 Accent suddenly shut off while on the highway, she started it back up and drove about 1 more minute and it died again, and has not fired up since.
The only code was a P0342P (pending), cam sensor fault, went to the dealer and the master tech said it will run with a bad cam sensor and that it is likely the crankshaft position sensor. So we bought that ($116 with my military discount), no dice.
It cranks over smoothly (however I did not think to look at the cam through the cam sensor hole until after I had left)
I pulled a cop and checked for spark, it lit the fuel/air out of the tube, so yes on spark and fuel.
All relays were swapped, fuses are good.
I suspect the timing belt let go, as these are interference motors it is likely the motor is toast. Or any chance it is not?
She bought this car brand new, just put front tires on a few days ago and an oil change, 98xxx miles, white 2 door, 5 speed, looks good otherwise, and has been taken good care of!!
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Recently, the cars electrical system shut down. The central locking system, the windows, seat adjustments, interior lights and the radio quit operating. The A/C, outside mirrors, driving lights & ignition remained operative.
Removing the electrical modules in the engine compartment & re-seating them reset the system. Then the same issue recurred. Re-seating the modules did not resolve this the second time. Only when the modules under the rear seat were removed and re-installed did the systems start again. Which module is defective?
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I have a 2003 Sport Trac that basically died last night on me. I drove it 30 miles Shut it off for about 10 minutes came back out and it cranks but it will not start. I sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and it ran for a second, so it's definitely a fuel issue. I am just not sure if it could be a fuel pump, Relay, or a dirty Fuel filter (I have not changed in the 87K I had the truck). Because it ran fine before it died..
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The problem I'm having is it starts fine in the morning but when I shut it off it it takes about an hour to start back up ..
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I am a new and very happy 7.3 owner. i have lurking around these forums and decided I didn't want to be a creeper anymore. So onto the fun stuff.
Yesterday my wife was exiting a freeway and the Ex shut off while exiting. once she came to a complete stop she tried turning it on and it would start then immediately shut off. she was able to turn it on and it would run then shut off as she drove across the intersection. once she made it across a good samaritan offered to park it for her. She noticed a little bit of black smoke but she told me that the guy was revving it to keep it running.
Luckily there was family at the mall and she waited for the flat bed to arrive. it sat for about 2 hours and they tried starting it and it would start then die. no more black smoke though. we had it towed to a diesel repair shop and they went to start it today and alas it started right up. they let it idle for 30 minutes and it was good. they test drove it and all good. they ran the codes and got the following:
P1876
B1352
B1483
U1147
One thing I did notice a couple of weeks ago, while driving on the freeway cruising about 65, the Ex surged a little and then ran fine. then another time it surged a little while idling. Some more info on the rig. it has a banks six gun tuner and has a cold air intake and exhaust. And it has a Banks Big Head wastegate. I bought the rig 2 months ago and changed all the filters and fluids.
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My 1985 Saab 900 turbo has been dying while being driven. Suddenly, and usually while the car is relatively hot and in traffic, the engine will die while driving. Usually it will die when at a light stopped but not always. This has never happened before the last week or so, but the car has always had trouble with cold starts and will die while idling when the ignition is first turned. This hasn't been diagnosed. At times a lot of smoke will come from the exhaust, and this has not had a trigger (too much oil, hard driving, etc) but the car did pass smog in California (the strictest state!). Just now, a light I've never seen (and I've had 2 80's Saabs) came on the dash which said EXH, which I read could be regarding the o2 sensor?
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Has 118,000 miles and we have replaced speed sensors and changed transmission fluid and updated computer software. It runs perfectly for 30 minutes whether driving in town or highway but then hesitates and jerks when shifting from 1st to 2nd and downshifting also. After it shifts into 3rd, it is fine. Repair shop says it could be gear box or computer problem. No one in town seems to know what it is for sure. 2004 Saab 9.3 2.0T
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I've read weeks worth of post to try and fix my late 99.5. First, I'll give syptoms then what has been changed/worked on. While driving at low rpm truck will shut off. As if the key was completely turned off. I am able to throw it in neutral and start back up. Not very safe.
Most the time when I feel the power/electrical loss I can hit the gas pedal fast and most the time "catch it" before it will completely shuts down. Also, I feel a very small "hiccup" at higher speeds. Not often tho.
Changed. Cps. Twice. First aftermarket, second ford.
Changed ICP sensor.
Had dp tuner installed. Right after tuner install abs sensor went out. Like the same day.
I have edge insight for all gauges.
I'm lost.. if these symptoms ring a bell for any of you that would be fantastic. I'm original owner...
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Car was idling and driving real rough and dying at stops. Turns out that the transmission mount was torn so I replaced it and verified that the other two motor mounts were good. Car was still running rough but on a drive with some jerky shifts (automatic) after about 20 miles all is well and I'm running as smooth as a baby's bottom with great turbo action. Cars just don't fix themselves. What could have been wrong? By the way there were no codes from the Tech ll. Using a pc of tubing I can't hear any vacuum leaks nor when spraying brake cleaner on the hose ends does the engine race.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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I just bought my first car, a 2000 saab 9-3 convertible (base model) a month or so ago. The car had been neglected for the last year or so and I have been spending the last few weeks fixing all its issues. This last weekend I replaced the rear shocks, font struts and the rotors and brake pads on all four wheels. After driving about 20 miles or so I started to notice a squeak coming from the front right wheel well and since has become more and more noticeable/pronounced.
Squeak description:-cyclically increases and decreases in volume with each rotation of the wheel
-the squeak is constant: squeak that gets louder at a certain point in each wheel rotation but is always a certain baseline volume as long as the wheel is turning
-the volume of the squeak is NOT AT ALL effected by braking (EXACT same noise driving as while braking) which leads me to think its has nothing to do with the pads or rotors
-HERE IS THE WEIRD ONE: the squeak disappears completely when driving in reverse!
-the squeak is about the pitch and sound of a cricket, only constant and Ii guess louder.
-the noise is unaffected by turning sharply to the right and left.
Additional details:- I had to use a gear puller to press the axle out of the wheel bearing (was stuck from rust). I hooked to the back of the wheel bearing ( what the lug nuts screw into ) and pressed on the center of the axle. Maybe this could have damaged it or the cv joint?-while I was switching that wheel's strut insert out, the carrier bearing leaked 1 (maybe 1 and a half) teaspoons of grey oil from the larger end of its boot and stretched out an inch or so from the weight of the hanging axle.
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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My 2001 Saab 9-3 (manual) won't start. It chugs and chugs and chugs but it won't catch. We've figured out that it isn't the fuel pump, but nobody can figure out why it won't start.
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