Saab - 9-3 :: Idling / Driving Real Rough And Dying At Stops
Nov 1, 2011
Car was idling and driving real rough and dying at stops. Turns out that the transmission mount was torn so I replaced it and verified that the other two motor mounts were good. Car was still running rough but on a drive with some jerky shifts (automatic) after about 20 miles all is well and I'm running as smooth as a baby's bottom with great turbo action. Cars just don't fix themselves. What could have been wrong? By the way there were no codes from the Tech ll. Using a pc of tubing I can't hear any vacuum leaks nor when spraying brake cleaner on the hose ends does the engine race.
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My brother's 5.4 has been rough idling and dying at stops and in reverse for a few weeks now. Today it threw a code and he finally had me look at it and it's a P0345 code. I was thinking cam phasers possibly, but I didn't think that would cause a code to throw. Also, all I hear about cam phasers is that it makes the truck sound like a diesel, but his when it's about to die sounds like the engine is about to drop out the bottom of the engine bay. Really rough, REALLY loud knocking, etc... What we should be looking at replacing to get this thing back into shape?
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I have a 93 Corolla LE and in October I was driving in heavy rain and the car died. Since then I have replaced the spark plug wires, plug seals, distributor cap, battery, and rotor. The car would get me from A to B, but I would always have to put it in neutral at a stop to keep it from dying. This past week we've had a lot of rain and it's been really cold so my car has been dying when I slow down or stop. I gave it plently of time to heat up thinking it would work, but it died three times on the way to work.
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I am working on a customers 08 F-350 5.4l has 135k on it. came in with a severe rattle/knock, running poorly, and dying at stops. ECM gave up 8 codes relating to the timing... Found the phaser replacement steps here on FTE and followed them and replaced the VCT solenoids since i was in there. Customer reported that he replaced the cam sensors already. Ran great for a day, and the next day when I pulled into the shop it gave me a rattle. Not as violent as before but noticeable. I special ordered the wedge and followed the replacement to a 'T'. I have no performance issues and no codes.
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I have a 2000 Saab 9-3, the 'Viggen' model, and it almost always runs just fine. But once in a while, maybe every couple of thousand miles, the engine just stops, in the middle of cruising along. The power steering goes dead immediately. So far, it has only happened in city driving, not going fast or accelerating hard. I can restart immediately by just depressing the clutch and running the starter. From other reading, I wonder whether it's the Direct Ignition Casset? The engine is the 2.3 L turbo.
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
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I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero that I bought back in August. Two weeks ago, I brought car into the dealership for a 90k road service. It had some idling issues (sometimes, upon starting it up (cold or not), the car would idle and sputter, but never actually die. During the tune up, they said there was a frayed cable, which they replaced.
Fast forward 1.5 weeks later. The check engine light has come on. And the car is now sometimes idling funny just as it was before, only now it actually sputters and actually dies sometimes upon start up. After it initially dies, if I start it up again, it runs fine up on the second start.
Took into the dealership this morning and after 2 hours of diagnosis, they say the check engine read-out is indicating the fuel pump pressure sensor is going out, and that's what's causing it to idle and stall. Is this diagnosis legit?
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Having problem with 2016 Accent Sport (or other model) idling rough after smooth driving for about 20 or so minutes? It has started doing this about a month after being purchased. About 700 miles or so on it) When in stick mode it smooths out and purrs like a kitten, but back in automatic mode it idles rough, with Active Eco on and off. I have an appointment to take it in to the dealership 5/7, but I wanted to see what the cause was.
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2005 Saab 9-5 ARC 2.3T67,000 Miles
Noticed a problem 2 weeks ago with my little Swedish meatball while at a red light on the way home. While idling, the car just shut off. I'm assuming it was a stall, but the car did not sputter and it was idling at around 900-1k RPMs but then just cut out. I put the car in park, and it started right up without issue and I drove the rest of the way home with it running fine. A couple days later, the same exact thing happened.
I took it in to my local Saab shop for a radiator hose replacement and an oil change. I told him about the stall/cut out problem, so he hooked up the Tech II but could not find any trouble codes. So he did a software update to the computer and told me to monitor it and call him if it happens again.
After getting my car back, it ran fine for a few days. I tried to get it to stall again by just letting it run in idle for 10-15 minutes but it wouldn't cut out. One night, I went to the gym for about an hour and came out and my car started right up and I drove about 5 minutes and came to a light. Car cut out again. However this time, it did not start up again. The engine would crank, the computer would go through the checks and give me the Check OK but it just wouldn't turn over. I tried to start it 5 or 6 times but no luck. I got out and pushed it to the side of the road. After about 2 minutes for sitting there, I tried it again and it turned over. Started right up like nothing ever happened.
The car drove again fine for a few days and then yesterday it cut out again. Same thing. Car would crank but not turn over. I let it sit there for 2 minutes (as traffic was going around me at a red light ) and then tried it again. The engine turned over but it did not start up fine. It definitely stuttered as it was trying to start and I had to give it some gas to get it running smoothly.
Couple of observations: This has only happened while idling (in Park or Drive)This has only happened when the car was warm. I've never had an issue starting in the morning or before the car warms upThis appears to only occur when it has been warm outside. (We've had a few days in the 60s here in PA)The Check Engine Light has never come on. So no trouble codes have ever been logged.
I've been searching the forums and most people seem to recommend replacing the Crank Position Sensor (my mechanic wants to do this as well). However from what I understand, if it was the CPS the car wouldn't stutter like it did when starting after a stall and wouldn't the CPS cut off the engine while driving as well?
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I am looking for a honest, (if there is any such thing) mechanic to keep my 2002 Saab 9-3 running. I am currently experiencing a loud noise while the car is idling. This is my only means of transportation and I cannot afford a car payment at this.
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Finally back able to start working on the Ranger and have a few questions.
When I got this thing back from my son it was running rough. I've fixed all the codes it was getting so no luck there now. Not sure how to explain it but, it feels like it is cutting back when driving at a steady speed and it idles rough. Not really like a miss but more like a hesitation when driving.
I've cleaned the MAP and IAC and changed the fuel filter. I also pulled the plugs and they looked good. My son installed new plugs and wires but he used the E3's and not sure how, or if, you're suppose to set the gap. I haven't checked the PCV yet because haven't figured out how exactly you get it out without pulling the intake.
So, where to look next? I'm kind of thinking the cam sensor but think I'll leave that to a shop sense I want the shaft replaced at the same time.
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I am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
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My 1999 BMW 3 series, with 112K, full synthetic oil and a 5 speed transmission does great, except for one minor issue. About once a week, when the motor is warm, it dies. Tonight after driving it about 20 minutes on the highway I came to our hill, put it in 1st gear to come up (like always), and then came to the flat part where I put it in neutral to coast the few feet into our driveway. The car responded by idling up to about 1200 RPM, and then dying. It always starts right up the 1st time (even after sitting for 2 weeks), and it is absolutely otherwise reliable. My initial thoughts were something with the idle control valve?
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The Basics: I have a 2011 GTI with 44k on it. First GTI, I have had it for a few months...
I was leaving for work yesterday and the CEL came on and then it started to run real rough. I pulled the codes with a auto zone scanner and I got these:
P2015 - sensor 1 bank CKT range/perf
P2279- air intake leak
P0300 - multiple misfires
P0301-P0304 cylinder 1-4 misfire
I did a bit of research on here and it sounded like a PCV valve. So I picked one up and I installed it. Problem did not go away. I then read that maybe pulling the battery may clear the codes... It did not. Now I have a lot more lights on.
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1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
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i have a 1994 mitsubishi diamante 3.0 sohc hard to start and idles real rough. it has new plugs,wires,cap,rotor button,fuel filter,and air filter.fuel pressure is between 45 and 50psi which is good i have good compression on all cylinders timing belt is good and i am getting spark to all plugs. with the car running i pull the plug wires off and cylinders 1 3 5 makes a difference but 2 4 6 their is no change.the car was setting for two years.it dose have new gas.the check engine light is not on and has no codes.
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So after taking my car to the stealership to get defective door seals fixed, I start driving home and I realize the front tire is flat. After changing to the awesome 17" spare, I decide to get gas. After filling the car up, it started for a few seconds running real rough and then shut off. I tried restarting it multiple times for about 10 minutes and the car kept turning over, but no start. I finally just shut it completely off for five minutes and it restarted, but is running roughly with the CEL light on and another green light, EPL, or something like that. I was able to drive home, but the check engine light is on still and runs like crap.....Back to the dealership in the morning. What this could be? I noticed lately sometimes when I push the gas hard it kinds of bogs down for a sec before accelerating. I had them check this and they said nothing looked wrong when they tested it. Fuel pump maybe?
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So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
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Went for a drive today in my Wifes 2003 F-250 5.4 automatic, Parked it and went for a hike, came back, started the truck ,put the it in reverse and it was running real rough.Put it in Drive and still running rough, figured i would put the truck in low and see what happens.It ran fine.Got home and did a visual inspection on the tranny, didn't see anything that jumped out at me.The fluid was fine. What this might be?
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