Saab - 9-3 :: 2004 - Hard To Shift In First And Second After Driving For 30 Minutes
May 19, 2013
Has 118,000 miles and we have replaced speed sensors and changed transmission fluid and updated computer software. It runs perfectly for 30 minutes whether driving in town or highway but then hesitates and jerks when shifting from 1st to 2nd and downshifting also. After it shifts into 3rd, it is fine. Repair shop says it could be gear box or computer problem. No one in town seems to know what it is for sure. 2004 Saab 9.3 2.0T
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In hot weather or even warm / humid weather, my very low mileage Mazda 626 (2002) becomes almost impossible to shift, especially from neutral to first, after about 20 minutes of driving. If I stop driving and the car cools off, it's okay again, until another 20 minutes of driving. It's fine in cool weather. This problem started in the summer of 2010.
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The truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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I have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
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I have an issue with the transmission not allowing me to shift from Park if I drive for couples of minutes unless I re-start the car. Also, if I drive for couples of minutes while I'm putting the cruise control on Standby mode or ON, it will shut off by itself along with the light for the economy driving mode.And again if I re-start the car everything will work.
This video will show you what I'm talking about : [URL] ....
My car is GLS 2011 and has 85,000 miles.
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My 97 Celica GT runs fine , battery is solid, no fuel delivery issues, timing is good, no backfires, new air filter, but when I have been driving around for like 20 mins and park for 15-20 or so I have trouble starting up, I have to keep trying and eventually it will kick in, but last night when I got home I tested it by letting it sit for about 20 mins and tried to start no dice, tried few times, then after cooling off over night, it started right up today with no problem. I remember a mechanic that was working on it said it could be a IC chip that could be overheating, I'm also concerned that it could be an engine or ignition component that is overheating and once it cools it's easy to start.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
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I have a 1999 GMC Suburban(5.7) with 173k miles. When the outside temperature is above 80 degrees F and I have been driving for about 30 minutes, I get a hard/firm shift from 1st to 2nd. It shifts to the other gears normally. When the temp is below 80 degrees, I can drive all day without any problems. Any clues for what may cause the hard shifting on hot days?
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I have an 04' R32 with about 56k on it. Here's the problem; when I drive it hard and speed shift from 2nd to 3rd it grinds just a little. It doesn't do it when I'm just cruisen grany shifting. For awhile now I've been thinking that the synchronous from 2nd to 3rd gear was going bad, till I talked to a friend with a 20th GTI who said that the 6 speed trannies will start to do that, and there's really nothing you can do about it. Is this true that I just have to deal with it or can it be fixed?
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Contour 133k miles
I've only driven the car for about 2 months, Ive never had an issue with it until yesterday other than an occasional hard shift when driving the car hard. Yesterday when I dropped the car in drive it wouldn't pull at all, I sat in my apartments parking lot continually revving the car high in drive but it wont do anything, its like the car is in neutral. Reverse works and I can drive by manually shifting from first to second and then putting the car in drive, but if I put it into drive before reaching 3rd gear it jumps back to neutral.
I checked the linkage, and the lever it connects to on the transmission; when put into drive the position of the lever coincides with the neutral position. I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor. Prior to this issue I would sometimes here a whistle coming from under the hood when driving, I didn't know until today that a whistle is indicative of a vacuum leak, but wouldn't it throw on my check engine light? I have checked my transmission fluid, its at the correct level and is a nice cherry red, it doesn't have any bad or burnt odor.
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I have a 1988 F150 which is in beautiful shape. My father in law had it since 1989 and had "babied that truck" according to him. So it's running great, has a mere 92,000 miles, is an automatic with 4X4 with manual shifter to put it into 4X4 or Low 4X4. Here's the questions: When driving in rear-wheel drive mode (I never drive it on the street in 4X4 - we don't get snow here in SC) it has developed a hard shift from first to second. It feels like it bumps when shifting. When empty it shifts at about 3200 RPM at average acceleration, which I think is a little high. Does RPM even matter when the shift occurs? Can the tranny be adjusted to shift at a lower RPM? Is my tranny about to go kerplunk? The transmission fluid was a tad low so I topped it off but that didn't seem to work.
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It's happened to me the last 3 times I've taken my truck out and drove through some deep snow. I have a hard time shifting the transmission from drive to park. The snow must get packed up under the truck near the shift linkages.
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My 2007 prius squeaks the first 10 minutes of driving. I believe the squeaking sound is coming from the bottom of the vehicle. Car has around 65k miles.
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I own an automatic transmission 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 180,000 miles. I bought it brand new, but it seems to be having trouble shifting into the right gear. Many transmission "specialists" keep telling me they can't figure out what is wrong, aside from offering to completely rebuild my transmission. The car has the following symptoms:
1. At a stop sign or red light, my car doesn't always begin idling properly. Sometimes it just won't go anywhere at all, even with the motor running.
2. As I drive down the highway, it acts like it jumps into a higher gear for no reason. It sometimes resets itself with no action on my part.
3. The car jerks back and forth, not seemingly due to shifting into gear, but randomly.
4. The check engine light does not come on often, but by the time I can use a DTC reader, the light goes off.
Everything seems to be intermittent, so I can't replicate the problem on-demand for anyone who wants to inspect the problems. Is there anything I can do? Is there an easy way to figure out what's really going on? I'm assuming this is transmission-related...
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2006 F150 5.4L, 4wd, Ext. Cab, 90k or so
In OD only, when passing gear kinks in going approx. 35 mph. transmission shifts hard...
Having transmission or TC problems? Hard shifting problems? Etc.
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Whenever it gets down in temps my wifes 05 RX has a steering problem. The steering feels like its manual for the first 15-20 minutes of driving. She has to use 2 hands to steer and thats not very safe. The power steering pump is full and there are no strange sounds coming from the engine. Is this normal for these cars? Maybe wrong viscosity of fluid?
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Prius a/c start to blow hot air after driving the car for 30 min. In the next day when i start the car, it blowing cold air.
A/C starts to blow warm air if i drive the car more than 30min. look like once the engine heats up its start to blow hot air. What will be the issue?
Only twice i got the VSC and Engine Check light. but it went off after 2 days. i Took it to the auto shop and did a scan, they said its giving lots of code (codes like: C1241, U0073, U0123,U0124, U0126, U0293, U0111) and they have reset the codes. and told if you get warning lights again then they can try.
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I have been to 3 mechanics including the dealer and no one can re-create my problem. While driving on the expressway at speeds of 60-70 mph after about 20 minutes the car will start to bog down and then stall. It will start right back up but then you can only go a mile or less and it will do it again. It has to sit for 20-30 minutes before it will go a longer distance. This is a daily event since we drive the car to work on the expressway and, of course, it takes 30 minutes to get there. What I have done: replaced the ignition coils (no change) replaced the fuel pump/filter (no change) replaced the throttle body (this fixed the problem for about a month or two. I had to buy a used throttle body because I could not find a new one) In any case if the problem is the throttle body what is making it go bad?
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I am hearing a single BEEP, about every 4 minutes, when I am driving. What the heck is it? I can't figure it out, looked in the Manual.
I found the Internal Alarm on Page 432, don't think it is that. The key is in my pocket, the car is on, I am driving! I've also removed the key from my pocket and set it on the front passenger seat, darn BEEP continues.
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