Infiniti - Qx56 :: Hard To Accelerate And Car Seems To Stall After About 5 Minutes Of Driving
Jun 29, 2011
All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
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I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
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I have been to 3 mechanics including the dealer and no one can re-create my problem. While driving on the expressway at speeds of 60-70 mph after about 20 minutes the car will start to bog down and then stall. It will start right back up but then you can only go a mile or less and it will do it again. It has to sit for 20-30 minutes before it will go a longer distance. This is a daily event since we drive the car to work on the expressway and, of course, it takes 30 minutes to get there. What I have done: replaced the ignition coils (no change) replaced the fuel pump/filter (no change) replaced the throttle body (this fixed the problem for about a month or two. I had to buy a used throttle body because I could not find a new one) In any case if the problem is the throttle body what is making it go bad?
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I have a 1988 Omni, so a 2.2 non-turbo with TBI. Within the first 10 minutes of driving, regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank, the engine will stall out. Throttle position does not matter - it stalls the same way under full throttle as it does idling. It always starts back up on the 2nd or 3rd try immediately after stalling, and runs perfectly. When it stalls, it's as if someone actually shut the ignition switch off - the motor completely shuts off without sputtering or running rough. All of the other electronics seem to be unaffected (for example, the radio and lights still work during the motor drama).
It may do this 3 or 4 times in the course of 5 minutes. After the engine is up to operating temp, the problem disappears entirely and only resurfaces whenever the car has had a chance to cool back off.
I thought it was the coil, but replaced that with no effect. I also recently did plugs and wires (2 months ago, long before this issue surfaces). I just remove the air intake assembly and watched the fuel injector. It ran perfectly normally for about 10 minutes again and then I saw the injector suddenly stop spraying, and the engine stalled instantly. The injector seemed to be working fine before the stall and worked fine again after I restarted. No weird noises or anything.
What this could be? ECU, maybe? Something specific in the throttle body assembly or fuel system? The little car is in great shape otherwise, and I drive it 100 miles every day to work and back to keep miles down on the newer thirstier car.
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We will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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I have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
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My 97 Celica GT runs fine , battery is solid, no fuel delivery issues, timing is good, no backfires, new air filter, but when I have been driving around for like 20 mins and park for 15-20 or so I have trouble starting up, I have to keep trying and eventually it will kick in, but last night when I got home I tested it by letting it sit for about 20 mins and tried to start no dice, tried few times, then after cooling off over night, it started right up today with no problem. I remember a mechanic that was working on it said it could be a IC chip that could be overheating, I'm also concerned that it could be an engine or ignition component that is overheating and once it cools it's easy to start.
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In hot weather or even warm / humid weather, my very low mileage Mazda 626 (2002) becomes almost impossible to shift, especially from neutral to first, after about 20 minutes of driving. If I stop driving and the car cools off, it's okay again, until another 20 minutes of driving. It's fine in cool weather. This problem started in the summer of 2010.
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Has 118,000 miles and we have replaced speed sensors and changed transmission fluid and updated computer software. It runs perfectly for 30 minutes whether driving in town or highway but then hesitates and jerks when shifting from 1st to 2nd and downshifting also. After it shifts into 3rd, it is fine. Repair shop says it could be gear box or computer problem. No one in town seems to know what it is for sure. 2004 Saab 9.3 2.0T
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I bought a used 2010 GTI with 37k on it. I am loving the ride, more than I even anticipated. It has the DSG, and I enjoy the multitude of ways I can choose to drive this vehicle.
I do have one issue of concern that I would like some feed back on. Occasionally, when driving hard, the car makes a horrible shudder and doesn't accelerate. It's almost as if the vehicle misses a shift and is governing itself quickly and harshly. I haven't had enough concentration to check RPM's when it does it.
It feels horrible, scares me and makes me wonder what I'm doing, what I need to get checked, or if this is something others have experienced.
Pic for good measure.
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The truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
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I took my 1998 Infiniti I30 to my mechanic for routine maintenance, and I noticed the engine was working a tiny bit harder to startup and to accelerate on highway in the last 2 weeks. They discovered the air filter and housing were completely burnt out! We're scratching our heads. Internet search and check with other mechanics- no clues. It's been a dream for years with routine maintenance, has only 125k, last service May 2013 since I only drove it 5K since then. I'm the only driver and it sleeps in my garage (secure, no rodents). What the heck?
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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My neighbor has a Astro van
1999 4.3l automatic
He is having his van run for about 25-30 minutes and then stall out and die. It will not restart unless you wait about 15min or so and do it again. It reaches 195 and runs find for at least 10 min after reaching temp.
63psi on the fuel.
no security light.
DTC is misfire on cyl 4 but may be due to a wire not being tight. I will check it out.
I am not sure where to go from here. Tested a new MAF and no difference. I am thing next maybe ignition switch or fuel pressure regulator.
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Our '03 Infiniti I35 lost large amounts of coolant each time on 2 long trips but when we did a pressure check, we couldn't get it to leak anywhere we could see and no visible signs of where it may have leaked while driving (no drip lines, puddles, etc.). We're not sure where the water pump is located, but have been told it's internal to the engine, so how can we tell if it's gone bad? Would the coolant burn off with no visible signs? We changed the radiator cap but no change. We use a trusted shade tree mechanic, but he's stumped.
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2008 golf city... So I bought this car about 2 years ago and the last couple weeks its had trouble starting and will sometimes stall out when your about to accelerate (from a stop sign) the mechanic I go to replaced the a couple relays under the drivers side dash, however I it hasn't made it better it actually made it worse as now it won't start at all the last 2 days. It rolls over and tries to start just doesn't. Its my only car and I already missed a week of work for it ( I commute ) I need it fixed. I believe the relays where the EMC is what he said number 249 I believe.
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I took my 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0 5 speed it a certified mechanic shop that I have used before. This scan show a speed sensor (which I already replaced) and the ECU. He said that the ECU is discontinued and that he could not do the repair.
The car will run fine for 10 minutes then will stall, wait 5 minutes and it will run again for 5-10 minutes stall and repeat the process. Question, what is involved with swapping the ECU with an identical numbered one from a junk yard? Also could swapping out my headlight assembly have any effect, this started to happen shortly after the new headlights were installed.
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Fourth attempted fix failed. 2 times with "regular" mechanics, once with Kia dealership. My 2006 Kia Optima will drive fine for about 20-30 minutes (last time 18 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, or turn a corner and then it acts up (engine light comes and goes). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops it wont come down from 40mph unless I break, It once wouldn't go past 40 though and I thought it was going to stall out on me. Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
Shut it off, it runs again fine for the next 10min or more. I have had the crank-shaft sensor replaced three times, (last by dealer for double the cost) New battery just put in a couple of months ago, spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and threw in some high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well.Every time I take it in, they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" ....The only other issues that don't seem too important right now are back sway bar and flex pipe.
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Fuel injected 429 (same as 460). Will run for 10-30 minutes then stall and not restart until 5-60 minutes later. Has fuel pressure at rail.
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My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
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