1999 Astro Van Run For About 25-30 Minutes And Then Stall Out And Die
May 11, 2012
My neighbor has a Astro van
1999 4.3l automatic
He is having his van run for about 25-30 minutes and then stall out and die. It will not restart unless you wait about 15min or so and do it again. It reaches 195 and runs find for at least 10 min after reaching temp.
63psi on the fuel.
no security light.
DTC is misfire on cyl 4 but may be due to a wire not being tight. I will check it out.
I am not sure where to go from here. Tested a new MAF and no difference. I am thing next maybe ignition switch or fuel pressure regulator.
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
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I took my 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0 5 speed it a certified mechanic shop that I have used before. This scan show a speed sensor (which I already replaced) and the ECU. He said that the ECU is discontinued and that he could not do the repair.
The car will run fine for 10 minutes then will stall, wait 5 minutes and it will run again for 5-10 minutes stall and repeat the process. Question, what is involved with swapping the ECU with an identical numbered one from a junk yard? Also could swapping out my headlight assembly have any effect, this started to happen shortly after the new headlights were installed.
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I have been to 3 mechanics including the dealer and no one can re-create my problem. While driving on the expressway at speeds of 60-70 mph after about 20 minutes the car will start to bog down and then stall. It will start right back up but then you can only go a mile or less and it will do it again. It has to sit for 20-30 minutes before it will go a longer distance. This is a daily event since we drive the car to work on the expressway and, of course, it takes 30 minutes to get there. What I have done: replaced the ignition coils (no change) replaced the fuel pump/filter (no change) replaced the throttle body (this fixed the problem for about a month or two. I had to buy a used throttle body because I could not find a new one) In any case if the problem is the throttle body what is making it go bad?
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I have a 1988 Omni, so a 2.2 non-turbo with TBI. Within the first 10 minutes of driving, regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank, the engine will stall out. Throttle position does not matter - it stalls the same way under full throttle as it does idling. It always starts back up on the 2nd or 3rd try immediately after stalling, and runs perfectly. When it stalls, it's as if someone actually shut the ignition switch off - the motor completely shuts off without sputtering or running rough. All of the other electronics seem to be unaffected (for example, the radio and lights still work during the motor drama).
It may do this 3 or 4 times in the course of 5 minutes. After the engine is up to operating temp, the problem disappears entirely and only resurfaces whenever the car has had a chance to cool back off.
I thought it was the coil, but replaced that with no effect. I also recently did plugs and wires (2 months ago, long before this issue surfaces). I just remove the air intake assembly and watched the fuel injector. It ran perfectly normally for about 10 minutes again and then I saw the injector suddenly stop spraying, and the engine stalled instantly. The injector seemed to be working fine before the stall and worked fine again after I restarted. No weird noises or anything.
What this could be? ECU, maybe? Something specific in the throttle body assembly or fuel system? The little car is in great shape otherwise, and I drive it 100 miles every day to work and back to keep miles down on the newer thirstier car.
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All of the lights that show up when starting the car are coming on when I am driving. After about 5 minutes of driving, it is hard to accelerate and the car seems to stall (like I am trying to change gears - it is automatic). The first time it happened, I took the car to a repair shop and they told me I had a leaking hose and needed a new alternator. I had them change the hose and took the car to my usual mechanic. After two days of driving my car, he could not reproduce the problem and said he didn't think the alternator needed to be changed. I started driving the car today and it happened again. When I got home and turned the car off, it would not restart.
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Fourth attempted fix failed. 2 times with "regular" mechanics, once with Kia dealership. My 2006 Kia Optima will drive fine for about 20-30 minutes (last time 18 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, or turn a corner and then it acts up (engine light comes and goes). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops it wont come down from 40mph unless I break, It once wouldn't go past 40 though and I thought it was going to stall out on me. Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
Shut it off, it runs again fine for the next 10min or more. I have had the crank-shaft sensor replaced three times, (last by dealer for double the cost) New battery just put in a couple of months ago, spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and threw in some high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well.Every time I take it in, they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" ....The only other issues that don't seem too important right now are back sway bar and flex pipe.
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Fuel injected 429 (same as 460). Will run for 10-30 minutes then stall and not restart until 5-60 minutes later. Has fuel pressure at rail.
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My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
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We will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
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I'm working on a 1999 Chevy Astro 4.3L with an occasional crank, no start condition. On any given day, this vehicle will start right up and run fine, although some days it will start right up and have a part-throttle stutter; not a dead miss, but a stutter when accelerating that sometimes goes away. When it has the stutter, disconnecting the MAP sensor will cause the stutter to go away completely. I replaced the MAP sensor, but nothing changed. Today, it's back to its crank, no start attitude problem. The basics check out fine: good, strong spark at the wires, 60-65 psi of fuel pressure, and I even pulled the plenum to verify fuel is firing from the injectors. Everything seems to be happening as it should except that it will not start and run. I even tried doing the Passlock relearn procedure on it, despite spark and fuel happening when it should, one or both of which would normally be eliminated by the security system, but to no avail. What could possibly cause this here-today-gone-tomorrow no-start condition?
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My 1999 Astro van recently started making LOUD rattling noises under the hood. No previous problems, ran great up till pulling into my driveway. It does have 160,000 miles on it, but has always been excellently maintained. Towed it to dealership where they told me that "by the sound of it" it would need a new engine. This van is fully loaded, power everything, leather interior, paint job is great, everything works. Breaks my heart that I may have to junk it. So, the big question is, junk it or get a new motor?
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99 Chevy Astro with 93000+ miles. Only recent problem (one week ago) was left lights on for 4hrs on a new battery and almost completely drained battery, then, vehicle cranked without a jump. This AM started van to go to work and there was a definite "whirring noise" from under the hood. Popped the hood and sounded like coming from the brake master cylinder area vs. AC compressor area-hard to tell though. AC has not worked for 2 yrs. Noise increased in proportion to revving of engine. Likewise, noise continued while driving, although seemed to not be as loud when engine warmed up. Temp outside 34. Fluid levels OK. Where the noise is coming from? Also not sure if related or a concern: brake pedal has a slight "stick" to it when initially pressing the pedal, for ~ last 6 mths. give or take Brakes seem to work fine.
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2001 chevrolet astro van won't start, I have spark and fuel. compression ok.
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we have a 1995 chevy astrovan. Some days it runs just fine and then others it cuts out repeatedly when we slow down or brake. It?s been to the mechanic a million times and he can?t find the problem?
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The air bag warning light is often, but not always, ON in my 1998 Chevy Astro. Unfortunately, it is ON whenever I seem to have a chance to bring it in for state inspection. My mechanic of many years has been unable to determine the cause.
(Note: An earlier problem with the battery draining was taken care of by turning the Dome Light button to the Off position and leaving it there permanently.)
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My wife drives a 1995 Chevy Astro. It has twice now stopped running with no warning. This happened while driving down the road. The headlights and engine cut out, but the turn signals, power windows, radio display, and such have power. Once it sits for a couple of hours, it starts right up and runs fine for weeks.
Is there an electrical connection of some kind between the fuel pump and the headlights? What might be going wrong?
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2003 astro - misses and chugs and clunks until i get up to 40 miles per hr...
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I've taken it to a half dozen mechanics, none can diagnose the problem. From a cold start the engine idles well, but once it warms up and the fast idle setting shuts off, it begins to vibrate quite a bit. I rebuild that included an all new fuel injection system, new ignition parts (including distributor, replaced at a later date,) new wire to alternator (the old one had cracked insulation,) and a new mass airflow sensor (swapped in from a parts van-no effect.)
Basically everything is new except for the sensors (crank sensor, idle air, throttle position, etc.,) and the fuel filter and pump. I'm not getting any codes, and at least two mechanics said it had good fuel pressure. It FEELS like a vacuum problem on a carburetor vehicle, but I had the vacuum harness checked as well, and everything seems to be in order.
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I've recently been having battery drain issues with my 2002 Chevy Astro. After taking it to a local garage I was informed that nothing was wrong with it other than it needing a new battery. They put a new battery in and within two weeks of the van not being used the battery was dead. I did a bit of research online and learned that something may be drawing power while the van is off, and that I could do a fuse test with a multimeter. After performing this test I narrowed down the drain to being related to the following fuse:
19 Instrument Panel Radio: ATC(Main Feed), 2000 Series (Standby)
The only things that seem to be on this circuit are the radio, cd player and some elements of the instrument panel (e.g. odomoeter). I'd like to fix this problem but I'm sort of stuck as to what I should start testing from here. Today I disconnected the radio and cd player and tried performing the multimeter test again, with the fuse back in place. It appeared that there was still excess power being used with the vehicle off.
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