Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 STX - Hard / Rough Starting When Engine Shut Off For More Than A Few Minutes After Driving
Jun 24, 2012
My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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The truck had a hard time starting, turn the key over hear that it wants to, but won't. Once getting it started, truck would drive fine, but after about 10 minutes just dies while driving. It then took 6-7 tries to get it started again, drove back like no issue. What it could be? I have come up with, potential battery, fuel pump/filter, spark plugs, EEC relay, PCM, or AIS motor, O2 sensor....
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How to diagnose what I think is a failing alternator?
Here are the symptoms:
- Hard starting in cold weather
- Battery not at full voltage when truck is parked (usually around 11.5-12 volts. I have been putting a charger on it some nights)
- Lights seem to dim when I've got accessories running, like heater fan, heated seats etc. Lights get brighter with engine RPM, like when pulling away from an intersection.
What's my next step to diagnose this? I did a search, and didn't see anything. My battery is probably still under warranty, so if that's the issue, it should be a free fix. How hard is it to install an alternator in a 2005 with 5.4L engine?
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I have had my excursion for almost 4 years, I love this truck. but lately we have been having issues that we haven't been able to figure out. First it has about 390K miles on it.
I ALWAYS have to plug it in. it could be 90 degrees out and I still have to plug it in. if it Is plugged in normally it will start fine. but then when I go to drive it, it wont have any power until I get like 2 miles down the road. you can push the pedal all the way down and it will go like 10mph. but once it warms up its fine. if I forget to plug it in, I will have to plug it in for about 2 hours and then it will start hard and run really rough for about 10 min. And it will blow greyish smoke out the exhaust.
But now I'm having the issue of keeping it running. it will start and run for 5-15 min and then quit and I have to wait anywhere from 10min - 1 hour to start it again.
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I was driving my truck down my driveway and it just shut off, it will not start, when I turn on the key the fuel pump will not run and when I try to start it the engine will not turn over. Neither the starter or fuel pump relay click. When I turn the key to the on position all the lights and radio still work. When the key is on the small red light on top of the dash begins to flash rapidly. My boss tried to hook his snap-on scanner to the obd2 port but it will not let him retrieve any of the codes and continuously tells him to cycle the key through the on and off positions giving zero results.
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Been chasing my tail and can't figure out an electrical issue. My issue is that I'll drive for about 20-30 min and the truck will shut off while driving. I'll pull off the road, let it sit for 10-20 min (cool down) and It will fire back up and go for another 15 min or so. Sometimes it will glitch/wig out when i try to start or not start....
I've replaced the following and monitored everything on a scanner.
-cam sensor
-crank sensor
-2 new batteries
-flashed the ecu
05' F250 6.0 King Ranch 4X4
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2008 F150 4.2l Popping noise cannot detect source. When the truck gets warm it makes popping noise while driving or parked with engine shut off. Noise is getting louder. This truck has about 50,000 miles on it."
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I have a 2008 F150 with a 4.6 litre in it. Last year I dropped a couple of plugs and had a factory new, second generation 4.6 installed. The motor only has about 25,000 on it while the rest of the truck has about 160,000. I was driving back roads in western Mass and went over a small, about four inches deep, pothole. I was driving about 35 miles per hour.
I didn't get any associated master warning lights. The RPM started rolling back from about 1700 to 0, and when they got to 0, the engine shut off. There was no previous sign of a fuel pump going bad, or of a bad fuel filter, which is also less than a year old. The truck has plenty of electrical power and turns over strong but won't start.
I checked the #9 fuse as identified in the manual but couldn't find an actual relay for the fuel pump, so I'm assuming it just has the 20 amp fuse which was good by the way. I'm thinking that the fuel pump would have given a few warning signs, but maybe not.
I did check the emergency fuel shutoff switch to make sure that it had not activated when I hit the pot hole and unless I'm resetting it incorrectly, it doesn't seem to have been set off.
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I just purchased my first F150, 4.6L V8, 55,600 Miles. It intermittently has a rough idle and only seems to be when the engine is hot. I've had engine and tranny mechanics look it. The spark plugs have been inspected and are within an acceptable range. The throttle body has been cleaned. There are no trouble codes of any kind. What I can check next?
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier with 113k miles. It is having problems starting. If it's sat for a while 10-15 minutes it's starting rough or in most cases needing me to press the gas pedal to get it started. I have replaced the fuel filter and used some fuel system cleaner to what appears no avail. I can hear the fuel pump turn on at startup, so not sure if that's the culprit.
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backed out of the garage fine later in the day went to put it away started hard would not idle and only rev to 2500 .cleaned map sensor,egg valve tested and it works.cleaned the IAC and that works ,fuel pressure is 58psi. starts hard it would idle now it doesn't dies, no code . with 58psi could the pump still be bad? it has 18 pounds of vacuum. where is the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator on the motor?
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Has 118,000 miles and we have replaced speed sensors and changed transmission fluid and updated computer software. It runs perfectly for 30 minutes whether driving in town or highway but then hesitates and jerks when shifting from 1st to 2nd and downshifting also. After it shifts into 3rd, it is fine. Repair shop says it could be gear box or computer problem. No one in town seems to know what it is for sure. 2004 Saab 9.3 2.0T
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My truck just shut down and now will not start//turn the key on it pulsates at the throttle under the hood and red security light pulsates same time.....I saw post a while back a truck had the same problem. I took the postive and neg off waited 2 hour put back on did nothing no codes come up either ......I was just driving along engine just shut down got it towed ....
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The past couple of months my ABS light has been coming on randomly. It comes on after several minutes (or hours sometimes) of driving then stays on. I wrote it off as a bad sensor but now, even when under light braking, if I hit even a small bump in the road, I can feel the ABS activating in the pedal. Seems like more than a sensor to me. I know I have a front wheel bearing going out but how would that be related? 2007 F150 5.4 2wd
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I have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
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Quick truck stats: 2005 F150, 5.4L, 85,000 miles
The past few weeks my engine has been hesitating on some cranks before it would start. I figured it was due to the cold weather so didn't pay too much attention to it as it was also not throwing the check engine light.
Yesterday it didn't start at all after the several attempts of just cranking over and over. It still didn't seem to trip the check engine light but I pulled my scanner out anyways and it had the code p1237. I cleared it and the truck started right up. It even had no more issues the three times I started the truck after that.
Today, however, she is not starting again and not throwing any codes. Still cranking so I'm sure it's not the started or the battery. I'm going to have my husband pick up some starter fluid on his way home today to see if I can at least get a temporary start since I think it's the fuel pump, or possibly the fuel filter. It is cold again this morning so I'm wondering if the cold is somehow making this issue worse. Either way I'd like to fix it, since being stranded with a truck that doesn't start is not my idea of a way to pass the time.
What else it might be and how I might be able to diagnose it?
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My Focus has 102,000 miles. It has thrown a p0171 code and I have been attempting to fix it. So far this is what I have done:Changed MAF, air filter, PCV Valve, plugs, Valve cover gaskets, Bank 1 O2 sensor and fuel filter. All new. I have cleaned the throttle body, fuel rail intake manifold. Cannot hear vacuum leaks and tested for leaks with carb cleaner.
Symptoms: engine cranks but has a hard time starting, usually on second try. When tank is about half full I get Rough acceleration, higher RPMs (doesn't change gear) and engine stalls on hard left turns. Idle gets rough at times but usually stabilizes at around 700 rpms.
At the beginning, #1 spark plug chamber had a lot of oil in it. It's been a few months and no oil after Valve cover gasket and PCV change. Tested coils and the plugs get a spark. Before I start messing with the fuel pump, am I missing something else that I can do?
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My 97 f-150 starts up every time.........the first time. After I drive for awhile and shut it off it gives me a hard time starting. It just cranks over but wont start. If I give it gas it catches and tries to start but dies out right away after I let go of the key. Sometimes after up to 10 tries and 20 minutes later it starts up again, so far! Also there is a gas smell, but I am thinking that's because of putting the gas pedal to the floor. could it be plugs? i bought it with 180,000 miles on it. I pulled a plug and it does look pretty rough so I am going to change em tomorrow.
The parts store calls out iridium plugs. the guy told me any plugs will work. said the only difference is the mileage you get out of em.
50,000 on regular plugs
100,000 on platinum
150,000 on iridium
Not sure that's the case but I bought platinum. I changed the plugs and wires and it runs great now. stopped for gas yesterday and still had to put the pedal to the floor for it to start. only one try and it started tho...... what next?
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I am usually on 6.0 site and don't know much about a 5.4 gasser, hope to get some tech info. My buddy was driving to my house yesterday and his 06 F-150 with a 5.4 liter just shut off while driving. He got it restarted on first try, all engine vitals normal. I sent him to Advance Auto Parts and they pulled codes; P-2112 and P-2104 and throttle actuator stuck closed. Engine is running fine and he has driven it about 100 miles since yesterday with no problems. 06 F-150 5.4 liter 58,000 miles.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
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I love my 2005 GX 470, but the A/C takes a few minutes of driving to get cold. It eventually performs like it should, but it shouldn't take 5+ minutes for the output to be cold I wouldn't think ...
IS THIS NORMAL for this vehicle or is there an issue? what is YOUR experience? My MDX will freeze you out after about 20 seconds of operation ...
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